terryHHI

Contributing Member
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    39
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About terryHHI

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Carolina

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Still learning
  • Interested in learning about
    All aspects of fine leatherwork
  1. Studio tac creative books. Opinions?

    I have several of the Studio Tac books in Japanese. I don’t speak Japanese, but I found the books useful. The pictures are show processes and techniques in detail. For the most part, the pictures tell a fairly complete story. I’ve refined several of my techniques based on the Studio Tac books. I also use Google Translate to translate the text to English. The Google Translate app lets you to take a picture of the text and it will translate into your language of choice. I’ve found the translations are helpful but not perfect. Another thing I like are the patterns. I haven’t made anything directly from their patterns but I’ve used pieces, like tabs or straps, to make select pieces for things I’m making. Another book to consider is “The Leatherworking Handbook: A Practical Illustrated Sourcebook of Techniques and Projects” by Valerie Michael. It was the first book I purchased when I started leatherworking and I found it useful.
  2. Scooby - a layer of veg tan might be the simplest and effective solution. I may have been overthinking what I need. baroness and LatigoAmigo - thanks for fabric interfacing ideas. The heat bonded sounds interesting hwinbernuda - the lead is heavy,, I like the board idea. The lead is typically wrapped around a pool noodle ( foam tube) or PVC or cardboard tube to keep it from flattening out and potentially cracking. I’ll try a small piece of plywood in the bottom of the prototype I’ve made to see how it works. Thank you for the ideas. A fresh set of eyes makes it easier to see some creative solutions.
  3. My daughter-in-law is a cardiology nurse and wears a lead apron and lead jacket for procedures due to the use of X-ray machines to place the leads into the heart. She travels between several hospitals and needs a bag to carry her “leads”. The leads are rolled instead of folded to reduce the chance of cracking. I’ve designed a bag that’s a cross between a duffle bag and a yoga mat bag. I’m using Italian Saffiano leather for the outside and goat for lining. Both leathers are 2/3 oz (about 1 mm each) and fairly soft temper. I’d like to add something between them to make the bag a little more firm. I have bag stiffener from Springfield Leather but I think that will make it too stiff. I’ve read about people using bonded leather or splits but don’t have experience with either? Any ideas? Thank you.
  4. Leather temper is a source of regular discussion in my house. I made my son a backpack out of 5/6 Wickett and Craig English Bridle. It seemed a little stiff when first made. After a year of use it has a beautiful soft temper. I bought W&C 5/6 harness and had them stake it 4 times to soften the leather. I think staking is the process of running the leather through a set of roller to loosen the fibers. I’ve made several totes and a doctor bag with this leather and I love it. Bag below has been used regularly for about a year. It shows some wear mainly from sliding it under airplane seats. I’ve made a couple messenger bags with 7/8 W&C harness, not staked. I was going for a more rustic style and the heavier leather worked great. The 7/8 I used would be too thick/stiff for a duffle bag of the style you showed. You can buy a single side from W&C and have it split and stake to your specifications. I’d guess the Buffalo Jackson leather has been tumbled to soften the leather.
  5. Hobo Handbag / Purse

    Great bag! Love the design. What are you using for the large silver buttons (rivets) on the outside?
  6. Leathercraft Masterclass

    Your question made me think of another site I’m looking forward to watching and learning from. Equus Leather, Charlie and Dawn Trevor, have several great videos on You Tube. They have a Kickstarter going to raise money to film the making of a wood framed attaché case. If you pledge money, you get access to a private Instagram account showing the filming and build process and other incentives depending on how much money you pledge. I’m excited to watch the construction of the attaché. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/equusleather/equus-leather-film-step-into-our-workshop
  7. Leathercraft Masterclass

    Hi niakulah, I’ve watched countless free YouTube videos. You Tube videos got me started with leatherworking. Like you, I subscribe to Nigel’s videos and have learned from them. I started subscribing to Leather Masterclass last week. I’ve watched the stitching, blade work and edges part 1 videos. Leather Masterclass instructor, Philip Jury is a great teacher. He explains the processes he uses, he explains alternatives, and his videos are well produced. I like the videos and I’m learning information and techniques I haven’t found elsewhere. For me, both subscriptions are worth the investment. Let me know if you have any questions.
  8. I like the bag shape! I love the lining! Fun to open and see a surprise!
  9. Book Trunk

    Thanks everyone. It turned out better then I expected. I’m thinking about trying a hard sided suitcase next.
  10. Question about lining a leather bag

    I would try to find a solution that doesn’t include a zipper. Here are some ideas I would consider if I were making the bag. apply glue (Loctite or super glue) to the threads to keep them from coming apart. glue the Chicago screw to the canvas and then glue another small piece of canvas on the inside to cover the back of the screw. This would work to “lock” the back of the screw. Tighten the screw as tight as possible, assume the chance of it coming unscrewed is low. If it comes apart in future deal with it then. Another option is to put the screws through canvas and lining. In my opinion, the screws would look fine on the inside.
  11. Debunking “grades of leather”

    I am relatively new to leather. When I started I didn’t understand anything about leather grading and quality. I found the vagueness of marketing and sales information confusing, and inconsistent. I was buying most of my leather at Tandy and didn’t feel like I could find “great quality” leather. I switched to primarily W&C as my leather source I’ve tried a variety of their grades and have been happy each time. When I have a “which leather would be best?” question, I call them and they help me determine the type and quality of leather I need. Your post provides a concise version of what I wish I understood when I started. Would have saved me from buying several pieces leather that are collecting dust in my storage area. Thank you.
  12. Book Trunk

    Hi Gary, See my response to YinTx about process. I think was writing that when you were writing this question. I found that trying to glue entire piece, wrap and trim all in one process created a mess. I went back and watched some videos and realized trunk makers did it in two steps. 1. Glue outside. 2. Miter corners and glue top edge and inside. Having outside firmly in place made everything much more manageable. The lining is wool glued and wrapped around bag stiffener. I made a bottom piece and glued it in first. Then I made long sides and attached them. Last, the end pieces were added. Lining overlaps the leather on inside and comes up to about 1 cm from edge. And thanks for compliment. It was a fun project.
  13. Book Trunk

    Hi YinTx, thank you and yes, leather was glued. I glued to outside first and let it dry. Then I glued flap, stuck the leather to top edge of box, trimmed the corners and then stuck the leather to inside.
  14. Book Trunk

    5. Body pieces glued. 6. Lid construction 7. Handle
  15. Book Trunk

    5. Body pieces glued. 6. Lid construction 7. Handle