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About terryHHI

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  • Location
    South Carolina

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Still learning
  • Interested in learning about
    All aspects of fine leatherwork
  1. Doctor Bag Restoration

    Leathersmyth - thanks for the advice. I’ve seen way too many feed sacks with chain stitch tops. I didn’t realize that’s how the linings where attached. I’ll dig around and see if I can find the end.
  2. Doctor Bag Restoration

    leathersmyth - thanks for the insight and information. I haven't decided how far I want to go with restoration. I'm a little concerned that taking it apart may cause more issues then expected. My current thinking is to restore the leather and see how it looks and then make a decision on how far to go. The thread is yellow. I'll be hand sewing as much as possible. One issue is finding a way to open the lining and get inside the bag. dirkba - my wife gave me similar advice - embrace the age and unique old bag and don't try to over-restore it. I looked more closely at black areas and it looks like it could be printers ink. I'll post pictures and info on what I'm doing during the project. chrisash - I think you are right, I wasn't sure exactly how to describe it. Today I'm starting on cleaning lining with Woolite, a toothbrush and a sponge and see how it goes. Thanks for your help.
  3. Doctor Bag Restoration

    A couple additional pictures. The bag is 18" length, 14" height, and 10" depth.
  4. Doctor Bag Restoration

    I had a weak moment at an antique shop on Saturday and purchased an old Crouch & Fitzgerald (New York) doctor or Gladstone bag. At first, I liked the hardware and thought I'd use the old hardware on a new bag. After looking at the bag for a few days, I've decided I'd like to try to "restore" it as much as possible and see if I can use it. There is a Great Lakes Exposition sticker on the bag and the Exposition was in the summers of 1936 and 1937. I'm guessing the bag was made in the mid 1930s. Here are my thoughts on restoring. Based on searching and reading accounts of restoring other items, I've decided to try the Preservation Solutions products. 1. First step is to clean the leather. I purchased a bottle of Leather Cleaner from Preservation Solutions. I'd like to preserve the Great Lake Exposition sticker if possible. I'm also not too worried about the black areas. I can't tell what they are but this bag is never going to look new and the stains give it character. I don't think the black is mold or rot. If you think the black is a problem, please let me know. 2. The leather is dry, but not terrible. Also purchased Leather Rejuvenator for Damaged Leather. This product puts the oil back into the leather and softens it. 3. I think it may need some polish, but I'll wait to see how it turns out before deciding what type of finish it needs. 4. The lining is going to take some work. The lining appears to be a light canvas and in good shape other then the dirt and stains. I want to clean it without removing it. It isn't attached to the bottom so I can pull the lining out and get good access. My thought is to start with Woolite, a sponge and a tooth brush and start slow and see what happens. If the Woolite doesn't cut it, then keep moving up to stronger soaps. 5. Some of the stitching is gone but stitching looks like easiest fix. After the bag is cleaned and oiled, I'll find a thread color that will blend with the leather and original thread and start mending. What am I missing? I'd appreciate any insight you have on how to tackle this project.
  5. Storing Small Patterns.

    I use 2 gallon ziplock bags and a plastic bin. I write the pattern name and date on bag. Using a bag makes it easy to keep track of many small pattern pieces and templates. I also tend to experiment and test ideas. I toss those into bag for future reference. I changed from manila folders. I found small pattern pieces tended to leak out around folder edges and turn up scattered on around the floor.
  6. Dying Edges

    I use Bob Park’s Edge Markers and love them. Easy to control how much and where edge dye goes. I keep the tips fairly dry so dye isn’t soaking into unwanted areas.
  7. Bag terminology help?

    Love the design. You could attach one shoulder strap tab and d-Ring to the front and back, like the blue I added to your image.
  8. Leather thickness

    I attended the Rocky Mountain Leather Trade Show last May. Kylie Ruffner is a sales rep for W&C and was working their booth. I told her I loved the W&C leather but I wanted leather that was softer. She said they can stake the leather and the more times they stake it the softer it gets. I told her I wanted to make totes and duffles and she recommended I get them staked 4 times. I believe Mattsbagger is correct, the leather is run through a roller press. There is a small cost for staking, but I don’t remember the exact amount I have worked with both Kylie Ruffner and Dave McCracken at W&C. They have both been patient while I ask them all my questions and work hard to get me exactly what I want. You can find their contact info here - http://wickett-craig.com/direct-sales/ No connection, just happy customer. Terry
  9. Leather thickness

    I buy my veg-tan from directly from Wickett and Craig. I have them split it to my desired weight. The last couple harness sides I’ve also had them stake it 4 times to make temper softer. The harness leather, split down to 5/6 ounce and staked works great for totes, backpacks, etc. I’ve found that by buying direct I’m able to get the weight, temper and quality I want.
  10. Great idea ENC, thank you. I’m going to buy small roll and experiment.
  11. Thanks Bikermutt, I’ve never worked with 14 oz leather. Hadn’t thought about how tough it may be to cut with strap cutter.
  12. I have an idea for a braided/macrame shoulder strap for a tote bag I’m making my wife. I’ll need about 50 feet of 1/4 inch leather cord and I’d like to make the cord. (This also might be an elaborate plan to justify a rein rounder.) Here is my ideas on how to do this. Use 14+ ounce skirting - as thick as I can find. I’m trying not to fold over and sew leather to create a piece thick enough to result in a 1/4 round cord or close to it. Cut a circle large enough to get a 50 foot continuous strip. Is there a formula or rule of thumb for length of a strip from a circle? Is it feasible to splice shorter lengths into one long length? Use strap cutter and leather circle to peal off a strip 1/4 inch wide and 50 foot long. Follow the process for creating round reins I’ve found on here. Bruce Johnson also has a good tutorial on his site. At what point in the process is it best to apply dye? I’m assuming after beveling and before starting the rounding process. Please chime in if you have any ideas or insight. This is totally new to me. Thanks, Terry
  13. Show your Shop

    Started on my office desk. Didn't take long to realize pounding on desk with computer or a card table wasn't going to work. Moved to garage and things just expanded to fill the space. Love seeing the shop photos. I see a few things I'll need to try.
  14. Intro and Hi from Hilton Head Island

    Thanks bikermutt. I didn’t post the ugly, poorly stitched, stuff living a lonely life on my garage floor. I liked your Horween wallet. Horween leather is still on my to do list.