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About shoepatcher

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  • Birthday 09/25/1952

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    Collects old industrial sewing machine manuals,rebuilds shoepatchers.

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  1. First of all, machine as a single needle is not threaded correctly. As it comes off the tension discs, it goes over the little pin. Put the thread under the pin. I would look at getting a single needle thread controller and take up spring instead of the double ones that are on the machine. I plan to pickup a used 767-65-FA-273 long arm Adler. I want to convert it to a single needle machine so I know what you are going thru. glenn
  2. Hi from West Tennessee.... I have recently acquired an Adler 30-7 in good condition, mounted on an Adler stand with most of the treadle parts missing.  I mounted a 1/2 hp servo motor and rigged a foot control to what's left of the treadle assembly.  The machine head was complete and it sewed OK when I got it.  I noticed after a few days that the little tension spring on the bobbin case/hook was missing.  After some head scratching, I discovered the spring and screw on an extra bobbin hook from my Singer 29-4 small bobbin machine would fit and work.  So, it sews fine.  I've been told by Bob at Toledo Sewing Machines, that the Bobbin/hook assembly from a large bobbin Singer patcher would work in this Adler.  I bought one as a backup... it looks almost the same as the Adler part, but it doesn't work.  Any thoughts? Am I missing something? 

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. shoepatcher


      Singer hooks and bobbins should work in Adlers.  I have used them for years.  The tension springs should work as well.  Sometimes, hooks are ever so slightly shorter from one hook to the next because they are hand ground.  Put the new hook in, turn the machine by hand to see if the shuttle carrier goes back far enough to allow the hook to pick up the thread.  That should tell you a lot.  This hook may need a bit of fine tuning on the timing of the shuttle.  You can reach me at home on the evenings at 757-870-8385 if we need to talk.


    3. Dbowlman


      THANKS MUCH Glenn.... apparently it wasn't the hook that was the problem... after reading what you said, I said to myself.. "maybe if I just use a bigger needle???"   Well, that seems to have solved the problem.  I had been trying to sew with a size 20 needle, using 138 top thread and 69 on the bottom side. After checking my chart, I saw that I should be using a size 23 (332LG) needle.  After putting the correct needle in the machine, I made over 300 stitches in various lengths without any skipping.  Thanks for making me a bit smarter! LOL  

      BTW, do you know of a source for actual leather needles for the Adler?  I've only been able to source round points.  

      Where are you in Michigan? I grew up in Flint when it was a wonderful place to live.  My son still lives there (drinking bottled water).

    4. shoepatcher



      Glad you got it working.  You need 332lg ore 332LL Lg needles.  Call Bob Kovar at Toledo Sewing.  He has those needles where you do not have to purchase a 100.  You can get them in pack of 10.  Yes, the smallest needle you can sew with #138 is #140 or #22, same needle.

      I live in Oxford which is 18 miles south of Lapeer.


  3. Indi, Send us a few pics of some sewn items so we can see what might be the problem. glenn
  4. Send us a few pics of the machine. It is probably a clone of a name brand. that way, we may be able to get you a manual. glenn
  5. Setting the stitch length to the correct length of stitch is not that hard. There are two set screws in the stitch length indicator wheel. Loosen both screws and you can rotate the stitch length wheel. Set the machine itself to 5 stitches per inch. Then loosen the wheel and rotate until the number 5 shows up in the hole indicator. Now the stitch length will correspond to the number in the hole indicator. That number may not be true so always check your stitch length on scrap. The Singer 111W152-157 were all walking foot machines. Fun to work on. glenn
  6. I would buy the Pfaff. Generally speaking, it usually is a smoother machine. If you can sew on it before purchasing, do so. I have had Adler, Pfaff, Juki and Singer. I still believe the Pfaff are the smoothest machines. Bobbins are the same size in the Pfaff and Singer machines, bigger in the Consew 206. The ultimate choice is yours. If you get the Consew, that means getting a table, stand, motor, drawer, thread stand and light. More money there. Just my opinion. glenn
  7. Grey. That was probably the original color. I always try to match the originally color when restoring a machine. glenn
  8. It has to do with restoring the "figure 8" on the end of the bell crank. The lobes wear down on each side and that causes the stitch length to shorten. If someone is a competent welder, the lobes can be welded up with a Tig or Mig Welder and reground with a Dremel and you are almost good as new. I have 30 plus bell cranks from Adler and Singers that have to be welded and reground on the lobes. That is a project for when I retire. That is normally the only thing to go wrong with a used bell crank. glenn
  9. Check out Miami Sewing machine web page. The have a lot of reconditioned and rebuilt machines and are in Florida. glenn
  10. This machine looks like it had trimmers for thread cutting at one time. Uwe, like you, I believe somethings are not quite right on this machine. glenn
  11. Like a Pfaff 1245, the 545 will sew a maximum thread of #207 top, MAYBE in bobbin as well. I always used #207 on top, #138 on the bottom. The maximum lift of a H4 High lift machine is 14mm. You could probably sew up to 3/8" thick of leather but that is a softer leather like chrome tan, not veg tan. That machine will handle #24 needle no problem. I have sewed with #46 thread and down to a #16 needle. Hope that helps. glenn
  12. ObjectMaker. Call Ryan at Neal's Saddlery because he may be closer to you than Bob at Toledo Sewing. Ryan is the importer for the Cowboy brand of sewing machines and he may have something for you. I would look at the 3200 machine that he carries. Both men are great to deal with. Take samples if you are going to test items you will be sewing. glenn
  13. Bonding on thread is a clear polyurethane that locks the spun fibers into a much stronger bond for sewing. If you have ever stitched with non-bonded thread, you will know what I mean. No nearly the strength and it frays like crazy. I simply do not use it. Only used in certain applications where the thread might be stronger than the material you are sewing. Trust me, always use bonded thread whenever possible. glenn
  14. I would also check the to see if the feeding is the same on the inner and outer presser foot. Sometimes, one foot is slight off, i.e. one foot rises higher than the other which can make a difference in stitch length. glenn
  15. Chayse, With the threads at 3/16" x32, you should be able to find grade 8 bolt on line that you can cut an make a spool pin out of. I know I could make a hell of a lot of spool pins for $97.00! As to the tension assembly, you need to determine what the threads are on the tension assembly stud. I believe Consew made a copy of the 305-64. Maybe a 754 model bracket. I know I have seen clones out there somewhere. glenn