cowboycolonel

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About cowboycolonel

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    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddles, cowboy gear
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    fellow saddlemaker

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  1. Saw the actual belt last week - SUPER!!!
  2. Big Sioux, I do it that way because I use the guide on my Adler to align the stitches, and if I try to sew at the same time, I run the risk of having the fleece catch up in the feed dogs, which REALLY messes up a stitch line. Besides, I think a hand-stitched skirt looks so much better. As I said, I "tack" the fleece to the skirts with rubber cement then half a dozen randomly- spaced single stitches. The fleece can slip a bit and still come out right. If you trim it first and it slips, then you have a wreck to clean up. I hate wrecks!!!
  3. I don't use Barge's any more, as I have found that replacing the fleece is more difficult because of the tight bond that results. And you WILL have to replace the fleece sooner or later. I have never done the "wet fleece" thing, as I have not had problems, but I can see where that would help.
  4. Tandy sells zippers by the foot. Buy the pieces separately and build your own. It's really easy, especially if your zipper will be blind on both ends. It's a no-brainer.
  5. Dam, There are "efficient" ways, meaning ways that don't take as much time, and there are "good" ways, meaning ways that create a product you will be proud of. If I'm fleecing a saddle for the first time, then I line the skirts up on my Adler and pull the threads out so that I am simply punching holes. I run a stitch line as if I were actually sewing the fleece to the skirt. Then I cut out the fleece over-sized and apply rubber cement along about a foot of each side - fleece and skirt. I tie a stitch on each end of this "tack" and several other places around the skirt so the pieces stay in place. Then I stitch in the holes I have pre-punched, using a diamond awl and two needles. When I get to the end of the "tack", I create another one in the same fashion and sew it, etc, until the skirt is done. Trim and edge, and you're done! When you are finished, you will have a professional job. I only apply rubber cement to about a 1 1/2 inch ribbon around each piece to allow for breathing and shrinkage of the dissimilar materials. Do Not glue the whole surface!!! When re-fleecing, your best looking job will be accomplished if you use the same stitch holes as the original saddle maker. Otherwise you will perforate the leather and the job will not only look tacky, it will not hold up. Some jobs just don't lend themselves to short cuts. This is one of them, if you ask me. Cowboy Colonel
  6. Go to George Hurst's videos and he'll show you how to make a pattern and holster all in one - can't get any simpler!
  7. So what is the prevailing wisdom out there? Do we shop for a new bed, try to get this one re-surfaced (and if so, how), or what? The clicker has been USED and is still in great shape, except that the bed has been worn down to the point that just about every "click" results in a stuck die. Of course this means that sometimes the piece gets stuck in the die and then possibly stretched out of shape on removal. Operating from the adage that "Money spent on tools doesn't count", where do I go and what do I do? Suggestions
  8. Dwight,

     

    I only read your initial post on the subject of being too stiff, so someone else might have offered this up.  I use Skidmores Leather Cream to keep or make leather supple.  It is a beeswax product and will also address the issue of chapped hands and split cuticles that you suffer from in those Waldo winters.  I go through the stuff like mad, but be warned -- it does have a shelf life.  Don't go buying gallons of the stuff until you can get an idea of how fast you'll use it up.  I apply it to every saddle (except the rough-out surfaces) before it goes out the door.  Also keeps belts from cracking, etc. I introduced the New York Yankees to the stuff, and they now order cases for their gloves, shoes, etc.

    1. Dwight

      Dwight

      Thanks, . . . I appreciate the tip.

      If nothing else, . . . I might get some just for my hands (lol)

      May God bless,

      Dwight

  9. Fleecing skirt for first time, or re-fleecing it?
  10. Dink up George Hurst's video sets. Some Great info there
  11. did you case it before carving? a dew seconds in warm water and let it dry overnight in plastic. Look up "casing"
  12. Does anyone here know an easy way (other than trial and error and error and error) to fine tune the adjustments on a Landis Lap Skiver? I just put a new blade in mine and everything is WAY off!
  13. I like bronze better, and buy all my stuff from Bork. All matches, all high-quality, and they are VERY prompt and a pleasure to deal with.
  14. F. O. Baird also worked out of George Jedlicka's Saddlery in Santa Barbara for several years. His work is the bedrock of many modern carvers. Can you try to get a pencil rubbing of that maker's stamp? Any detail might help.
  15. I use two thicknesses, about 7 oz for the outside and 3-4 for the lining. I'd use 7 oz for the inside of the spine as well, for stiffness, use the lighter leather skived to a feather edge, foe the hinge pieces, and yes, you should have moist leather when you do you final forming -- not wet, just moist. I don't do videos, but can walk you through the hard parts if you want.