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About cowboycolonel

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddles, cowboy gear
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    fellow saddlemaker

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  1. Removing the horn from a saddle... is it possible?

    look at Roohide in Malibu
  2. Removing the horn from a saddle... is it possible?

    The saddlemaker in me wants to ask - "Why don't you have a saddle made? Of course you could do it yourself, and start by ordering a custom tree - they really aren't THAT expensive - and have it made without the horn. I see way too many instances of people trying to cut corners on their saddlery and although they never come back to admit it, I'm guessing that most end up abandoning the project or starting over. I'd just do it right the first time. And by the way, cutting the horn off won't give the horse any more clearance. It's the size of the gullet that makes the difference. Take a picture of the saddle on the horse and post it here. You're certain to get at least as much advice as you want.
  3. Historically correct Western chaps

    If you REALLY want to go "period", then I suggest you use leather buttons as closures. Easy to do, and as authentic as it gets!
  4. Advice on using adhesive

    I use Barge's or Master's. Master's is more readily available, but you can get Barge's in small quantities at some hardware stores. The small quantities which are available without HAZMAT considerations (California) make Barge's cost prohibitive for large projects like saddles. With both products I have had very good success with tight and lasting bonds.
  5. Los Angeles Clicking

    Call Carlos at Goliger Leather in Ventura
  6. Free is always good

    Same story here, but I went to a monument and grave marker place and got a piece about 2 inches thick, 18 X 30". It will stand up to uneven surfaces and hard use (had it about 10 years). I don't move it, of course, but teh price was right. Have gad several pieces that were thinner and they just don't seem to last too long.
  7. Saddle Making Help Needed

    Roland. You can buy a new tree for less than $300, which is a whole lot cheaper than medical care and a whole lot less frustrating than trying to figure out why you horse has a sore back and won't stand still to be saddled. Brenner knows whereof he speaks! Taking apart an old saddle will yield some lessons, but best you not learn others by trying to re-build something that will end up being just as expensive, take more time, and end up hurting you AND the horse. ... and then you can even get a tree that won't make you do welts on your first saddle. Look for one of the Bowman trees to begin with -- much simpler and you'll like the result. Go to
  8. site chat

    so is there a chat location on this site? How do I find it?
  9. Tell me about knots

    Unlike Sioux (finally found a point on which we differ) I always sew my shearlings to my skirts by hand. I use the two needle method, and when I get to the end of a length of thread, I leave the ends dangling until I pick up the stitch with a new length. Then I tie a blind knot and pull it into the combined thickness of the shearling and skirt leather. However, one of the guys I learned from simply tied a square knot at the splice and trimmed it short.
  10. Saddle Making Help Needed

    Have you ever heard of re-inventing the wheel? This will be as if you were starting over, but with used parts. The Al Stohlman Saddlemaking encyclopedia will show you a layout arrangement for the parts, and will provide patterns as well. The set can be bought from Tandy for a pretty good price. Don't bother buying them individually, because it will cost more. You need Volumes 1 and 2. Depending on what you're going to do with the saddle, trail use, cowboying, display, etc, you will want two sides of skirting leather. Opinions vary as to what weight to use in what area, but I'd start with a 9 - 10 side and an 11 - 13 or bigger. Fill all existing holes to start with, and then you can start. Dusty Johnson sells DVDs on saddlemaking, and also provides pattern and written instructions. Bill Gomer's videos are good as well. Good Luck
  11. Starting braid

    Durn near everything you need to know can be found in Bruce Grant's book, Leather Braiding.
  12. Safety beveler vs a spokeshave

    Like everything else ... The right tool for the right job. I use the potato peeler and the heel shave for saddle seats, but a head knife or potato peeler for small work that is not stationary. Seems like Sioux and I have to same experience with the "peelers" from Weaver. Sometimes they work, but if they are misshapen, they simply won't! Wish they come in both right-handed and left-handed models though. As for the Chrome Tandy models -- same as Sioux. not worth spending money on.
  13. More leather questions

    Strip of what? Lay the pattern out over a piece of 7-8 oz. or 8-9 and trace around it. Cut out one for each side. Match and smooth them, then take a set of dividers and score a stitching line about 3/8 in from the edge of each. Then score another line 5/8 in from the edge of each. Use the 5/8 line as the boundary for your tooling. If you're going to use a creaser, use it INSIDE of the 5/8 line. Remember to smooth and burnish the bottom side of each yoke prior to stitching it to the legging leather.
  14. More leather questions

    Tandy sells patterns for chinks and chaps - not too expensive and of course they can be modified. Why not start there and make your own adjustments as you go along?
  15. Diamond Awl problems

    All I have is a number, and I believe he is in Wisconsin. (715) 532-6301