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  1. Gunnarsson

    Portable compound feed machines?

    Others have talked about the difficulty in sewing straight and well while using one hand for cranking, so I believe I would be putting motor on it sooner or later. But sure, if i don't get a suitable one at the same time as the head I will most likely try hand cranking it, it's not like I could have the head available and not try to use it!
  2. Gunnarsson

    Portable compound feed machines?

    I have been thinking about getting a true industrial machine, putting it on a box like those portable "semi industrial" Sailrites etc, and hanging a suitable motor off the back. Big and heavy, but way easier to find room for than an entire table. The available portable machines just seem too limited, lots of money for a machine with basically the same capacity as a vintage domestic, just plus the walking foot. Might as well aim for something with descent capacity.
  3. Gunnarsson

    Sewing Machine conundrum

    I'm also just a hobbyist with very limited experience, I'm keeping my eyes open for a usable sewing machine but so far I'm really mostly doing research and trying to learn what to look for. In my eyes, the Boss is an interesting machine, but priced way higher than it is worth to me. On the positive side it has impressive capacity, on the negative side it seems like alot of people have problems with them (especially the later aluminum ones) and being hand cranked it will be slow and noisy - probably fast enough for the hobbyist doing an item now and then, but much too slow and labour intensive for actual production work. If I come across one very cheap I'd probably buy it just to try it out, but I'd probably sell it on once I'm done playing with it and use the money for something with a motor.
  4. Gunnarsson

    Leather scissor vs. fish scissor, difference?

    Allright then, I've got to give it a try when I find one that hasn't been killed by abuse or rust!
  5. Gunnarsson

    Leather scissor vs. fish scissor, difference?

    The old ones I've seen have certainly not been stainless either, but it sounds like they're worth taking a chance on assuming I can find them in good enough condition - the rust has usually done quite a bit of damage in all the wrong places. But they'll be cheap for sure, anything over (equal to) $2 or 3 and I'll walk away if they're not in very good condition.
  6. Gunnarsson

    29K Broken Base

    Nickle rod might be the easiest way to weld it (a good reason that has made the method popular), but there are many options and that one might not always be the best. Unlike a brazed or O/A weld with actual cast iron filler the usual MMA nickel rod w/o preheat and slow cooling welding will cause the cast iron around the weld to cool down so quick it becomes white cast iron (instead of grey) with a high amount of iron carbide making it very hard and more brittle.
  7. Gunnarsson

    29K Broken Base

    Brazing can actually be stronger than the cast iron itself. I've got old oxygen/acetylene welding handbooks from the 1930s-60s (when O/A was the go to method) where they describe a cast iron brazing test. You build up a "wart" of brazing bronze, about ½" diameter and height if I recall, on a cast iron plate. Once it's done and cooled down you hit the wart from the side with a hammer until it breaks loose, if you've done it right the brazing bronze will take a layer of iron with it, i.e. the bronze doesn't come loose, rather the cast iron breaks under it. I'm sure there are some methods to weld cast iron with a stronger result, but what's the point? There's still cast iron right there next to the weld ready to break if you overload it again.
  8. I come across old scissors similar to these at flea markets every now and then, this general shape, one blade with teeth and one with a regular straight edge. This style scissor seems to be sold as leather scissor and fish scissor (for cutting fins etc.). Do you know if there is an actual diffrence between them, and if it really makes a diffrence when using them for either job? I've been picking up old rusty fabric shears and restore them to usable condition for a few years now, if those leather/fish scissors work good enough in leather they might be worth the effort too, but I have no interest in them if they're useless outside the kitchen. Especially since the old ones i find aren't stainless.
  9. Gunnarsson

    29K Broken Base

    In my hands, that would be a brazing job. Cast iron has a few problems that makes it harder and in some cases impossible to weld (you don't know if it's a weldable cast iron alloy before you've tried), so you don't want some amateur with no knowlege and experience messing with it.
  10. Can someone please explain why so many people think that sewing machine oil, made for sewing machines, isn't good enough to lubricate their sewing machines that were built to be lubricated by sewing machine oil? Why does everyone think they know better than the people who designed the machine, and the people who makes the oil for sewing machines? Sure, there are many miracle lubricants out there, at least they perform miracles according to the writing on the can it comes in. Believe it or not, the biggest miracle they make is filling the pockets of the people making and selling it -with your money.
  11. Gunnarsson

    Using Single Needle on a Double Needle Machine?

    Well... It doesn't seem like a very good idea to run for example a Singer 112 at the maximum 2" separation between the needles (if I recall correctly), and then only using one needle while sewing something tough close to the machines maximum capacity, there would be quite a bit of leverage on the needle bar etc. But set for perhaps 1/4" or 1/2" width I doubt there would be a problem. Sure, somewhat uneven load, but nothing crazy.
  12. Gunnarsson

    Cast iron bed crack - options

    A proper brazed repair should normally have a higher breaking strength than cast iron, so it can be superior in strength to both the original item and a welded repair. And if you use the proper method and grind a groove where the crack was and braze it up nothing prevents you from grinding any protruding material and painting it to make the repair more or less obvious. (All repairs require stop drilling the cracks and grinding a groove, really - both welding and brazing.) You did not mention the brazing method using an oxygen/acetylene torch, with the proper brazing bronze. Unlike TIG, you can use the torch to preheat the area before brazing. Actually, it could be O/A welded too - in some cases it's still the best method. It does not use a nickel filler like when arc welding cast iron, rather you use actual cast iron rods for filler (such as Kastweld 111). The upside is that after the repair you still have a 100% cast iron item, that can be drilled, tapped and machined as before if the proper slow cooldown was used. The downside? The part needs to be stripped down completely. Complicated shape items such as cast iron cylinderheads are welded using this method, but those complicated shaped require ALOT of preheat - we're talking the entire head being bright red. After that the machined surfaces need to be re-machined, but your crack looks like it's in a "better" area requiring way less preheat. I'd go for brazing, partly because it's the lower temperature option. But the warp in the bed worries me a bit, the repair would probably pull it a bit straighter again but exactly how much is hard to know. And if you try to force it back, even after stop drilling and grooving the crack out, it might be enough to break the bed completely off. On the other hand, then you could bolt the halves together and stop worrying about welding or brazing.
  13. Gunnarsson

    $25,000 worth of machines in Los Angeles

    This showed up on Facebook in a vintage industrial sewing machine group too. The general consensus there was that the price might be okay for 50 complete, functional and ready to go machines, but the machines being sold are incomplete, rusty from bad storage, most likely worn, and probably needs alot of work to get running if they aren't used for taking parts from. Perhaps $5000 would make more sense.
  14. Gunnarsson

    New Outlaw hand crank Boss clone

    Makes sense. Out of (mostly mechanical) interest, exactly what is it that stops the lever movement? If it is the more or less sensitive internals of the machine "after" the adjustable places so all that comes under shock load I wouldn't be suprised it will wreak havoc on the adjustments. Om the other hand, if there were adjustable stops more or less directly at the lever, stopping the movement just a hair before the rest of the machine says stop, the machine shouldn't have a problem working.
  15. That's an impressive piece of german engineering, and equally impressive restoration! I Always thought I should stay clear of the Dürkopp patchers due to not having parts available, but they just might be worth the hassle anyway.