ke6cvh

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About ke6cvh

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  • Location
    abroad but American
  • Interests
    making anything, 4x4's, guns, bows, electronics, sewing

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    sewing leather especially making sandals. I am retired active duty US Navy
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    dogpile.com
  1. Machine sewing braided thread

    Hello group, I have been purchasing braided poly off ebay made in USA in size 415 and 277 (for the bobbin). The bobbin never has a problem. The top thread, 415, would wind up terrible so I contacted the maker. I already posted this information in a different thread not knowing that this thread was specifically about braided thread (lots of puns sorry). The solution was obvious but I needed confirmation. The cone was not designed to feed off the top. Instead one needs to make a horizontal rod and allow the spool to spin on the rod as it feeds off (similar to how the bobbin feeds the thread). Braided thread is stronger than regular. This stuff being made in USA and bonded/waxed and white/brown/tan/black colors. So now I'm waiting for some braided fishing line to arrive (although I truly love the braided poly and the mfg from USA I have long lead times getting it here overseas). So I bought some braided fishing UHMWPE line. The stuff rated at 80lbs is 0.5mm so perfect for a size 23 needle which is max for my Singer 112w-139 and the size 42 is slightly smaller than ticket 30 so perfect for the bobbin and seriously strong stuff. UHMWPE is super UV resistant and has abrasion far beyond the best Nylon plus the extra strength. So, I read people say that if the thread is too strong it will rip the material before the thread breaks. I believe in this 80lb smaller size than 207 (approximately) top and the slightly less than ticket 30 42lb (in the bobbin ) is ideal for a machine like the 112w-139 or Consew 206rb etc. And I get free shipping on it. We use commercial device that fits onto the spool pin and uses silicone lube on the thread. With the fishing line I'd use the silicone lube pot and feed it sideways off the horizontal spool like the braided poly (size 415 is rated at 95lbs ! ). We are setting up to weave on a hand loom next week (12 shaft homebrew countermarch) and I've even considered trying to make a rip stop on steroids with braided thread in the rip stop portion. It'll be interesting for a project. Best regards, Mike
  2. Hello group, This is a really old thread but I want to add some information. I have used a US made braided polyester thread that is size 415 and size 277 (bobbin). I contacted the manufacturer over a technical question as I discovered an issue with it. They said they are making it in USA proudly and as long as sources for the fiber don't dry up they will source the fiber in USA. If forced they will only source overseas and still braid in USA if supply is no longer available. I put it on my thread stand and it twisted hence the reason why I contacted. With the braided stuff it is stronger than regular equivalent sized thread and is not sensitive to right/left twist requirements. However when feeding off a regular thread stand from the top it will twist up. The answer is to feed off side and let the entire spool turn as it unwinds to feed the machine. They have tan/brown/black/white waxed/bonded. Same seller below is selling gun holsters so must be using them successfully with their biz and it is obviously listed for leather work. However, something I want to try is an 8 braid (that makes it a round braid coming off a maypole braider) UHMWPE fishing line. I just ordered some rated at 80lbs and color dark grey with 0.5mm. Using Bob's chart that puts it on a size 23 needle which is capable of many of the machines that would be used for wallet leather etc. that max out at size 23 and the size 207 is 0.508mm so this will be ideal. The 42lb stuff is barely smaller in diameter than ticket 30 so would be a good candidate for the bobbin in a machine like a Singer 112w-139 compound feed sewing wallet type leather. These types of lines are much stronger than polyester or nylon and UV resistant unlike nylon with much greater abrasion resistance than even the best of nylon but the Achilles heel is very high heat temperatures. If I wanted max bang out of smaller threads on my Singer 112w-139 I believe this 8 braid fishing PE (UHMWPE) line is the way to go. Here is the link for the USA made stuff but I will try the 8 braid 80lb PE fishing line and am fairly certain it will be amazingly strong. I might try to figure out a better smaller size for bobbin as well. Best regards, MIke https://www.ebay.com/itm/Braided-Poly-Thread-Tan-Size-346-Waxed-1-4-lb-for-leather-upholstery-and-more/192776703116?hash=item2ce2630c8c:g:J24AAOSw~FJZMIK2:rk:1:pf:1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Goture-500M-Braided-Fishing-Line-8-STRANDS-Super-Strong-Saltwater-Fishing-Line/202066283470?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=502064358039&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  3. I contacted the owner of this thread and asked them if it is made to be side fed and the response was that it feeds better that way as they put it on the spool that way. Also he said they have made holsters to allow the thread to feed off sideways. That explains my twisting problem. Too easy to make an adaptor to allow this so I think I'll do that soon enough. Best regards, Mike
  4. Hello group, I have been using a braided polyester thread from J&S called "New Millennium". We are using a size 415 in the needle and size 277 in the bobbin. This stuff is made in USA and the material to make the thread is sourced in USA. A little expensive but the braided thread is supposed to not have the twisting issues as well as being stronger (the 415 is rated at 95lbs breaking). It has a unique and decorative look to it. Although a little more I find it well worth it and proud to use a thread made in USA with quality and good performance. They have both bonded and waxed as well as white, black, brown and lighter brown. Has anyone had any issues using the braided thread? I have found that I do need to straighten it out every once in a while so I'm not completely sold on the non twisting but I'm not an expert. Even though the 415 is supposed to take a size 28 needle I've found it to work quite well in a size 27. They claim braided goes through the needle better as well. Just my 2 cents if I was to go regular twisted I'd surely buy the cowboy brand from Bob at Toledo Industrial. Maybe he'll start stocking a braided as well. Best regards, Mike
  5. Tiger Thread Vs Lin Cable Vs ?

    Hello group, I just received some size 415 braided that is available in either waxed or bonded sold by J&S thread supply but I got it from a pack goat web site. From J&S it is $38.95 a pound. It is either brown/black/white/tan. I got the black and it is shiny and really sews well in a size 27 need 214x1 on a 45k1 and looks incredible. I also got size 277 but it is not as noticeably flat as the 415. I will get tan next. This stuff is USA made I'm sold on it !!!! I'm considering in investing in a compound feed machine even though I'm only doing heavy waxed canvas with the thread now I like the idea of a machine that can do it all. I'm considering a double needle shuttle hook but I think it is allot more expensive. Is that un-necessary with a drop down roller foot like on the Cowboy cb-4500 for a clean double row of stitches on a pocket? My concern is the roller guide not working right on pocket attachment and a double needle that could also work single as more appropriate....sorry to shift from the thread top to also machines after adding the thread info. Back to Amman that braided thread confuses me as the J&S is available from 207 in all the steps up to 415. This Amman site is nothing short of confusing on their smallest size which I think is about 415 (and it is round not flat) Best regards, Mike
  6. Hello group, We are using a recently overhauled circa 1915 Singer 45k1 allot lately and love the machine for heavy type work with webbing, canvas, and denim. I took the low road and got a locally available 750w brushless servo as the price was just over 100 dollars in this country. It is nice enough but I've seen problems with this brand of motor wanting to chug along at the lowest speed when letting off the pedal and not stopping ever. It was a case of supply and demand...low cost and easily available. Lots of messing around got it to work properly again (motor stopping after letting off pedal) and I noted the problem went away when I messed with the needle up/down button. My assumption is that the circuit board/micro controller circuitry is confused thinking it needs a sensor input so it is hunting and waiting for the sensor to tell it to stop. This was partially confirmed by shorting two pins on sensor input connector resetting the board. So I spent under 20 US dollars (850 Philippine pesos) and got a sensor and hooked it up. Well the motor no longer gets confused with the up/down sensor button. However the heavier weight of the flywheel allows it to freewheel past the up or down position hahaha. Inertia of heavy hand wheels and needle position sensors just don't seem to be made for one another. I thought this motor had a brake on it like the ones that Bob Kovar sells but it seems to not be the case. Anyone have similar humorous but not so good experience with motor position sensors? Maker of motor is CHM and of course China mfg. for motor. Best regards, Mike
  7. Hello group, We are using a recently overhauled circa 1915 Singer 45k1 allot lately and love the machine for heavy type work with webbing, canvas, and denim. I took the low road and got a locally available 750w brushless servo as the price was just over 100 dollars in this country. It is nice enough but I've seen problems with this band of motor wanting to chug along at the lowest speed. Lots of messing around got it to work properly again and I noted the problem went away when I messed with the needle up/down button. My assumption is that the circuit board/microcontroller circuitry is confused thinking it needs a sensor input so it is hunting and waiting for the sensor to tell it to stop. This was partially confirmed by shorting two pins on same connector as the sensor resetting it. So I spent under 20 US dollars (850 pesos) and got a sensor and hooked it up. Well the motor no longer gets confused with the up/down sensor button. However the heavier weight of the flywheel allows it to freewheel past the up or down position hahaha. Inertia and needle position sensors just don't seem to be made for one another. I thought this motor had a brake on it like the ones that Bob Kovar sells but it seems to not be the case. Anyone have similar humorous but not so good experience with motor position sensors? Best regards, Mike
  8. Singer 16-188 questions

    Hello group, I am the proud owner of both a 16-188 from 1954 and a 16-88 that is over 100 years old. We lovingly restored the 16-88 with cold cure japanning. That machine is awesome for upholstery type work. We sew multiple layers of material such as canvas and denim but also clear vinyl when we made some of our machine covers. The 16-188 gets a little neglected because of space issues and it just aint as beautiful as the older machine that runs smooth as can be. I looked for larger needles on eBay and the largest I could find for this machine was a size 22. They may have made a larger one (if so please let me know as I'm looking for size 24 and might as well go for 23) but since I cannot find larger than 22 maybe it isn't made anymore. I believe it would be great for other light work but need a size 24 needle etc... Mentioning this on this post as a potential limitation of the machine. Our 45k1 from 1915 on the other hand is not a walking foot but can definitely handle the heavier thread and needles with anything a harness machine might need to sew. Best regards, MIke
  9. 460/13 SINGER Serger For Sale

    it is likely going to be on the cast iron somewhere. It was common to have an oval shaped piece in the casting. You can then go to the ISMACS site for serial numbers and try to cross it to a date. The 460 is a later model preceded by machines like the 246 series. That is why I guessed it to be around 1960 time frame but that is only a S.W.A.G. It is certainly going to be a self oiler being it is capable of up to 6500rpm. I do not have personal experience on this machine but the basics are pretty fundamental. Anyone used to 3 thread machines would certainly be able to figure out fairly quick the threading. If you have to break the case open (unlikely) you would be able to easily make a new gasket for it and seal it again. If it is like a Merrow there will be a plunger pump on it. The Merrow m-3dw-4 I have here actually has two plunger pumps and a filter but I did not need to break the case. It was semi-frozen upon receipt. I moved it back and forth to free it up. I then filled it with kerosene (light lubricant) and ran a belt off the chuck of my Dewalt 10 amp drill for a while. THen drained and put Juki M oil in it (light machine oil). The manual called for light turbine oil but my experience is this is ok. The manual specifically stated to not use stainless white oil (mineral oil with possibly some inhibitors like the Shell Diala used in power transformers). On the other hand our Union Specials use mineral oil. In the end an older machine like this would likely never be run at 6500rpm anyways and taking it down a notch or two to 4-5k rpm should be just fine. I see loopers and knifes on eBay for this machine. I had an old guru teach me the trick to sharpening the upper knife. It is done in one direction only. We did this to our Merrow before we got new knifes for it. My wife was using our Merrow and our Brother the other night. She now only uses the domestic Juki for light work and not as often. I'm happy to see her using the industrial sergers more and more. They are true work horses of the garment industry. Looking I see there was a "K" on some models. The K is for machines made in Scotland. The W's were in USA. Best regards, Mike
  10. 460/13 SINGER Serger For Sale

    forgot to ask...what is the serial number? It is pretty easy to cross date of mfg. with most Singers based on serial numbers using the ISMACS website. Not all industrials can be narrowed down really well but typically it can be found. For example, our 112w-139 and 112w-140 both are mfg. in the 40's but I can't nail down the exact year because "W" machines (industrials) are not as easily found all the time. Just curious but my S.W.A.G. is that this machine likely is around 1960. Would be fun to find out. Best regards, Mike
  11. 460/13 SINGER Serger For Sale

    OK, on the threading. Here is a video in Spanish that shows the threading. Really doesn't need to be in English as it is shot pretty good. I see the 460/13 in this video uses a curved needle. Our Merrow and our 39500's use curved needles. Our US39800, Juki, Brother, and Singer 1842's use straight needles. The advantage to a curved needle like yours is that the needle enters into the stitch triangle easier (it is much easier to adjust loopers if ever needed) and curved needles are more precise as well as likely faster but what I do know for certain is precision needle placement and ease in adjustment. The trade-off is that the needles are more expensive and have to be ordered off the net. I prefer curved needles most of the time. If you search youtube you will likely find more videos showing the threading. Best regards, Mike
  12. 460/13 SINGER Serger For Sale

    Check this video out....person took a simple sewing machine motor for a domestic machine and mounted the Singer 460 series to a portable plywood base that is picked up and set on a table when needed.....not bad and very simple and effective. Ebay has these universal motors super cheap...or you can just chop your table in your picture. We have done that also. To the left in the other pic posted is our Juki mo-3300 industrial 4 thread barely can be seen. We took a cheap Chinese (sorry Juki but you don't deserve the TLC our Union Specials get for tables) table and mod'd it to be 2ft wide. Best regards, Mike
  13. 460/13 SINGER Serger For Sale

    Hello again, OK....I can't help myself when you mentioned a space issue. Here is a picture of a Union Special 39500rf (that is heavy duty with a high throw which is a good thing). It is likely bigger than your 460/13. Merrow makes a table they are quite proud of that is 24 inches wide and is pretty "plain Jane". This table is 19 inches wide, has foot pedal for presser and the servo motor, enclosed thread stand with our own engineered thread cone caps, easy access with zippers and snaps to the thread cones, curved opening with stainless chute into waste bin. Merrow has none of these features and is overpriced....eat your heart out Merrow! We made the butcher block from scrap 2x4 and made it end grain on the fold out section (I don't think Merrow's table has that either and a Merrow is much smaller footprint as a machine) and end grain on the thread stand. Everything on the table itself is stainless and the thread stand is angle iron. So, if you have 19 inches of space and want to keep your machine it can be done! Because this 3 thread is used for piece work we really don't need space to the left but other similar tables (with built in logos for other makes) do have space to the left. Those tables are huge as they are 24 inches wide. I have a Union Special table that is different design up on youtube but the table was not completed with chute and other items. Video does show the stainless drawer like this one (partially pulled out in picture and the shape is unique because of the size of table....drawer is longer on left for scissors and internal divider allows smaller items like thread scissors as it fits around machine when pushed all the way in) which when pulled out allows access to the loopers and threading. Some of our Union Special sergers are definitely 1970's vintage. Unsure about this one as it could be decades old but it really doesn't matter as it works awesome. American Made at it's best and still being mfg. today in USA. Best regards, Mike
  14. 460/13 SINGER Serger For Sale

    Here is a free .pdf link for the maintenance of the machine and description of options/stitches. This one does not show threading but that will not be all that difficult to get figured out. I'll look for that next as there maybe some tricks (like there is on the Merrow). The sub-class 13 can be set up for a purl stitch by changing loopers and springs as well as different spi by changing eccentrics (this is common). The thing to know about sergers is that they are strong because the stitch can stretch. 4 thread is stronger than 3 thread. 3 thread is typically used when strength is not necessary but edge finishing is needed and also where curves might need to be done such as a zipper etc. Sergers (means it cuts and it overlocks kind of like the blues brother's movie where they sang Country and Western) become different when it comes to fine material. This machine is likely a 1/8 inch width which is just fine for denim IMHO but if you are trying to do a semi felled seam then you would likely prefer a wide 5 thread (so it can easily be folded over for top stitching). We use our 3 threads allot and have them set up with large cones of white thread. We use our 4 thread when it is straight and we need the strength but don't need the safety stitch (the 4th and 5th thread/second needle chain stitch on the 5 thread machines)This may change in the future but our other sergers are set up with either gold or grey thread (we will set one up for each color if we have multiple units which we do). One thing you must be very very careful of with a machine that has loopers is thread path. Light tension on the looper threads is the norm and if you have inconsistent feed path it will result in broken threads and agony constantly rethreading. We have our own stainless thread cone caps we engineered here for this purpose and they are great! Best regards, Mike http://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/460_CLASS.pdf
  15. 460/13 SINGER Serger For Sale

    Hello group, I thought I'd seen a youtube video on this class machine and searched...here it is. Singer 460-13 in operation. Best regards, Mike