• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About clivel

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1,041 profile views
  1. Edge finishing and glue bleed

    jdm0515, After seeing my portfolio an acquaintance has talked me into making him the identical portfolio but only in a different colour. I will keep the points you suggest in mind. Thanks for the advice, Clive
  2. My newly completed letter sized portfolio. For the most part I am very happy with how it turned out, but the one problem I have been having is finishing off the edges. I used "LePage low odour contact cement" to assemble the portfolio prior to stitching, but I am having problems finishing the edges where the glue has bled. The procedure I followed is sand the edges, dampen and burnish with a wooden burnisher, sand again, damp and burnish again. I then dye the edges, and once the dye has dried, I follow with Tokonole burnished with a piece of canvas. The edges turn out exactly how I would like them except for the parts where glue has been exposed leaving rubbery rough patches. I am sure I am not the only one who has experienced this problem, what do other do to prevent if from happening? Any advice would be appreciated, Thanks, Clive
  3. Beginner Looking for Tools in India

    If you search for leather on eBay India in the tools category you will find lots of Indian suppliers.
  4. Manicure Case

    Hi Keith, If you have access to Al Stohlman's "The Art of Making Leather Cases" Volume 2, he gives instruction for making a manicure case on page 106. HIs books, despite the dated look of many of the projects, are a mine of useful project ideas and sound construction techniques. Clive
  5. Gimp Help Please

    First step would be to remove the background, there are a number of tutorials on the web, for example this one: How to remove the background from an image using the Gimp There are often multiple different ways to accomplish the same thing, so it may be worth your while to search Youtube for other tutorials. Once you have gone through the exercise of removing the background, you should be familiar with layers, so after having removed the background, the next step is to add a transparent layer for the new background. Once you have added the layer, then move it below the layer containing the object, it can then either be filled with a solid colour, or with another image. Once that is done, in order to create the reflection, it is necessary to duplicate the layer containing the object. Flip the duplicated layer vertically for the reflection. Select a rectangle around the flipped object and drag it into position below the object. While it is selected, use the "Blend Tool" to apply a graduated transparency mask. Clive
  6. Kind of went nuts on Round Knives

    Being in Canada I have more or less given up on, even with the exchange rates and shipping it is almost always significantly cheaper to order from And if you spend more than US$25 on books, shipping is free. In this case however with your Elite membership, Tandy would be your best bet. Clive
  7. Thanks for the great advice Mattsbagger and bland. I think that I'll stick with belly until I have more experience. Clive
  8. I completed my first project a few weeks ago, a small wallet I could slip into my front pocket. I am fairly pleased with how it turned out, although the stitching did go a little funny in a few places. As this was mainly to be a learning experience I used the cheapest leather I could find at a local store - veg tan bellies. For the outside I used 1.6mm and 1.2mm for the inner card holder sleeves. I dyed the leather with fiebing's light brown diluted 5 to 1 with rubbing alcohol, rubbed in using a piece of an old t-shirt. It took a couple of coats to get the depth of colour I wanted. I then followed up by polishing with a few coats of a wax/oil mixture. To me the finish looks quite good, even though the leather was described as low quality by the store clerk, and other than the rather furry flesh side, I am not too sure why he it is low quality. Which brings me to a question, I am ready for my next project, a more complicated wallet for a family member, bearing in mind that I am not going to tool it, what reason would there be for me not to continue with the belly and if not, what leather should I try instead. Thanks, Clive
  9. Thread locking - knot slipping

    Thanks everyone for the great advice - plenty of options to experiment with over the weekend. I am using the diamond style chisels. Clive
  10. Thread locking - knot slipping

    YinTx and Mattsbagger, Thanks for some great advice, unfortunately I will have to wait until the weekend before I have a chance to try out your suggestions. I am using 3mm pitch Japanese diamond irons followed by a Kyoshin Elle "small" stitching awl from with John James size 4 needles and 0.8mm Tiger thread. Clive
  11. Thread locking - knot slipping

    Johnv474, Thanks very much for the response. I probably didn't really explain it well, but I do "lock the thread" exactly as you describe which I hoped was visible in the first photo. What happens however, is that as I sew the part of the thread that is pierced is pushed along until it touches the needle forming a knot against the needle as can be seen in the second photo. I have tried using a larger awl, this helps somewhat, but I am still having problems with this. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Clive
  12. Starting out

    Al Stohlman's books are invaluable, especially the stitching book, however nothing beats a real life teacher. Unfortunately we don't all have the luxury of sufficient time, money or even availability of classes, instead however YouTube offers an excellent alternative. There are hundreds of leather working videos on YouTube, of the ones I watched, I found Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson the most helpful. Both have made loads of videos, so it is only too easy to get distracted, so make sure to scroll through their videos to find the introductory ones. I found Nigel's Saddle Stitch in Detail and Ian's Hand stitching leather particularly useful. Ian also has a Top 25 recommended tools video which is also very helpful. Clive
  13. hand stitching, thread breaking

    I am a complete beginner so take what I say with a pinch of salt. I was also having problems with piercing the thread with the second needle until I followed the advice given by Al Stohlman in his sewing book of simultaneously pulling the first thread with the left hand while sliding the second needle through with the right hand. For a better description, please refer to step 11 on page 11 of his book if you have it handy. Clive
  14. Jerimiah Watt quick change edging tool

    I asked Jeremiah for permission to repost his email to me here, he hasn't yet responded, but I can't see that he would have any objections to me posting his sharpening instructions, so here is what he wrote: So lets get started with the inevitable maintenance of any and all cutting tools, no matter who makes them. I would have to guess that there are small burrs on the top side of the tool. ( top side of these tools is that side looking back at you during use. Lets begin with a sort of daily maintenance schedule for edgers on the bench. Sharp tools need to be stropped or another term may be polished. So, I keep a small strip of board on my bench with assorted leather strips glued down on top the board. Each leather strip changes in its width and height with different radius over the top, which faces you when its being used. I charge or load each strip with a high polish type compound, something like a red rouge or a white diamond compound. By holding the edger in its “too be used” position, dragging it backwards along the top of the strip that best matches the radius of the bottom of the tool you will be honing/polishing those internal cutting edges. Think about having a second board and strips, but on this one we charge each strip with a powdered grit of say 600 grit, we would use this for more material removal/sharpening, followed by the board above used to polish that final cutting edge. Now any time that you are sharpening and or honing a tool, there will be a tiny wire burr forms on the upper edge of the tool- that’s the edge facing you remember. So now, use the honing board, turn the tool upside down and drag that upper crook and cutting edge of the tool side ways along the largest radius strip- this will wipe off that tiny wire burr. You should be ready to go after that. Charge your boards every month or so too keep them fresh and doing their job. I strop/hone my edgers some everyday, just like my knives. If you are edging wet or damp leathers, when done wipe those tools off, keep them dry. Veg tan leathers have a certain degree of acidity in them, however minor, it will micro etch those fragile cutting edges making you struggle even harder.
  15. Jerimiah Watt quick change edging tool

    Hi Nigel, Thanks very much for the advice. I didn't have too much success raising the leather, even though I made sure that the blade was fully engaged with the edge, it still didn't cut well. I suspect though that it really is just a matter of sharpening the blades in accordance with Jeremiah's instructions. I will also try some thicker leather as you suggest. Thanks, Clive