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About trailrunner

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  • Gender
  • Location
    New Jersey, USA
  • Interests
    hand sewn leather, small leather goods

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  • Interested in learning about
    reenactment leather, sewing machines
  1. Ink stamp for flesh side?

    Cool, thanks to the both of you for the information. I'm going to check out Ian Atkinson's video on it.
  2. I couldn't find any information on this anywhere. For those who make things with at least a bit of the flesh side visible, has anyone ever tried stamping their logo onto the flesh side with ink, rather than using an actual 3d stamp on the grain side? I thought it could look pretty cool. If you used archival ink I would think it wouldn't fade or discolor. Any thoughts?
  3. Copper rivets with smooth head

    Thanks for the reply, I'll check out that company.
  4. Copper rivets with smooth head

    I'm wondering if anyone has found a source for #9 copper rivets where the flat head of the rivet is nicely finished and smooth. All the ones I've gotten have an uneven textured finish on the head from the manufacturing process. I saw a picture online of a box of vintage copper rivets from I think the 50's, and the heads were completely smooth and beautiful. Does anybody still make solid copper rivets of this quality? Thanks in advance
  5. Zipper supplier needed

    I usually order from zipperstop. They're in NYC. Excellent customer service, fair prices, and large selection of YKK that they stock. They can also shorten the zippers for $1 extra each. I've never had them do that so I can't say how it turns out, but they're worth looking in to. If you have them shorten it for you, then they should have what you're looking for.
  6. chicago screws and copper rivets should have the chicago screws you're looking for in black. I've ordered from them. The screws are made in USA, excellent quality, but pricey. I use copper rivets now because they're about 3.5 times less expensive, and I feel stronger, but if I ever need chicago screws for the more refined look, I'll be ordering from these guys again.
  7. pricking iron under $200?

    I second the recommendation to watch Nigel Armitage's youtube video where he reviews a bunch of different pricking irons. I have the diamond hole punches from leathercrafttools, and I couldn't be happier with them. They produce a really nice stitch and don't produce large holes. I only have the 6 prong and 2 prong for each spi. I use 6 prong for straight lines, and 2 prong for curves. I highly recommend them. Leathercrafttools has two different types. The ones I use are the diamond punches, not the "European punch." On top of that, they're only like $10 for 6 prong and $6 for 2 prong, plus shipping. Don't let the price fool you. They produce beautiful stitches and are made of quality steel. I've used one of the 6 prong ones for a couple years now, and it still produces clean effortless holes. As others have said, you can also use these just to make indentations, and follow up with your awl if you want, which I sometimes do on very thick seams.
  8. What size Tiger thread?

    Also wanted to add that with the chisels your using, I'm pretty sure .6mm thread at 8spi would not even fill up the holes from the chisel. Not sure that would look too good. If you were using a thin awl you could deff use .6mm thread if that's the look you're going for, but with those chisels I think I would buy the .8mm thread.
  9. What size Tiger thread?

    It depends on the look I'm going for and what I'm sewing. I usually use .8mm for 8.5 spi. I think .8mm is a perfect size for 8 spi. To me, .6mm tiger thread would be too small for 8spi, but I tend to like the look of a thicker thread. I think generally .8mm is the best for around 8spi.
  10. Juki 1541 tension issue

    Just an update, I tried a new bobbin that I had already wound with the same thread. This was the stainless bobbin that came with the machine. After switching to this bobbin the problem seems to be just about completely fixed. I had been using the extra black bobbins that I received with new machine. I believe this may be the issue. I'm pretty new to sewing machines and never thought the bobbin could be an issue Eric, I think the smaller needle also helped to solve the problem. The stitches look nicer now too. I'll have to mess around with the tension a bit more, but I think the smaller needle and the stainless colored bobbin made the stitches 90% better. Thanks again for the help Eric. -Josh
  11. Juki 1541 tension issue

    Eric, Thanks for the feedback. I tried a size 18 needle, and although it didn't solve my problem, the stitch does look noticeably nicer. As far as the check spring goes, Ive never messed with that. I'm not even sure where it is. My manual gives directions for adjusting the thread take-up spring. I'm assuming that's not what I want? thanks, -Josh
  12. Juki 1541 tension issue

    I'm using a 125/20 Groz-Beckert needle. I even tried a 140/22 needle to see if that would help but no luck
  13. Juki 1541 tension issue

    Hey everyone, I've been stumped with an issue with the tension on my Juki 1541-S for a while now. I was hoping one of the experts here would be able to help me. For context, I'm sewing mostly 15 oz waxed canvas, anywhere from 2-6 layers, using v-92 thread. Basically, the knots from each stitch are visible on the bottom of the seam. From everything I understand, this means I either need to tighten the top tension or loosen the bobbin tension, or both. The problem is that when I loosen the bobbin tension to the point that the knots are no longer visible there becomes visible loops on the bottom of the seam. If I keep the bobbin thread just tight enough that there's no loops and just tighten the top tension until the knots are no longer visible, I have to tighten it so much that the fabric actually bends as I'm sewing, as it gets pulled by the top tension being so much higher than the bottom. I'm sure there's a stupid mistake that I'm making, but I'm not sure what. any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  14. Looks beautiful. I always like red thread with brown leather. Those keepers are really nice. You don't see ones shaped exactly like that from any of the usual suppliers. Im curious why you back stitched each row again instead of just using larger thread. Does it add to the strength?
  15. Harbor freight workbench or alternative

    I've been looking at the 2x4 Basics workbench legs the past few days. Theyre heavy duty plastic legs for $50. The bench would end up being about 36" high. You just cut 2x4s for the length and width that you need. Looks very easy to assemble. Even has screw holes in the legs already and holes for two shelves under the top. I might splurge on a nice maple top if I go this route, that way I can just cut directly on the top and remove the top once in a while and sand it smooth again. That would also save on having to buy the cutting mats which are expensive in the large sizes. Form the reviews I've seen, I have no doubt the legs are heavy duty. I just think the plastic legs will be kind of ugly to look at. This setup might look silly to a woodworker, but I'm not one and id rather just spend $50 to know my table will not be wobbly.