DominickTuroski

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About DominickTuroski

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Minnesota
  • Interests
    Leather tooling, sewing machines, and wallets

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Steampunk armor, traditional belts and wallets as well.
  • Interested in learning about
    Larger projects, where to sell, and improving my skills
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Researching project ideas
  1. dye hard leather

    Only apply water before tooling. The oil is more of a finish and softener. The water should get you the moisture you need. Do not soak the piece, apply water to the surface sparingly using a sponge or spray bottle. You will learn the amount your leather takes after some trial and error. Do some good ol YouTube research and just type in "Tooling Leather" Bruce Chaney and Tandy leather have some great beginner tutorials.
  2. Orders to ship

    Very admirable stitching
  3. Pictorial carving of a beach

    Thank you! As for the stamps I agree, I regret adding those. Trying to figure out how I want to border it.
  4. Pictorial carving of a beach

    The second photo is my first attempt on nicer leather. I then swapped the grass for rocks as seen in the first image
  5. Pictorial carving of a beach

    ^ Also the stamping above the tree is not ment to be leaves, just a border. That picture isn’t finished either
  6. Pictorial carving of a beach

    I’ve been trying some figure carving these past few days and am liking it. I’ve been toiling leather for only about a year now. I’ve done some very simple Sheridan stuff and my own floral designs. I’m from Minnesota so I’ve been trying to adapt some of the traditional western carving to a bit more of a midwestern taste. I’m trying to tool the shoreline of Lake Superior specifically. I have been searching for reference images of rocks or water or beaches or anything like that being tooled. I’m pretty satisfied with the tree, I’m getting the hang of that, but the rocks and water are a bit off for me and I can’t find many good references. If anyone has reference photos of scenes they have toiled with rocks or water or any tips I’d love to see what you’ve got. Criticism on anything on this is welcome as well.
  7. Beginner's Questions...Again

    Most of this seems to be answered but I'll just toss in 2 more cents. Tandy should be perfect to start. I've been using their stuff for about 2 years now and most of it has managed to hold up. for single punches a good stitching awl can get a bit expensive for a nice one. I've managed to get away with a scratch/saddlers awl to punch individual holes, not poke through it. Don't get a round knife yet. Watch discontinued items at tandy, I picked up a belt end punch from there for like 12$ Wing dividers are a bit more versatile, and an overstitch wheel you can get pretty cheap and they are nice for if you are doing some hand sewing with different spacing than the chisel you may pick up. The process for that would be to set a line with your wing divider, go over that with the overstitch wheel to set your spacing then individually punch it out with a saddlers awl. Works for me, not for everyone. Great looking stuff! best of luck
  8. Good buy or not?

    Definitely a great buy
  9. How do you carry your tools to a class?

    Tool rolls always work nicely, at least for tooling tools. I'll post an image when I get back to the bench of mine.
  10. Good youtube videos for beginners?

    Gotta check out Don gonzales and bruce cheaney, they may be a bit more advanced but bruce has some really good beginner videos for sure. Springfeild leather company has some good tips and tutorials on their channel (kevin hopkins) but unfortunately the audio is a bit weird on those. Some are only in mono. Another is Harry rogers, who has some great stuff as well. But youll have to find them, as he has a lot of woodworking videos as well.
  11. First Tooling - Dragonfly

    I bought the springfeild leather Dead Weight a while back and have been using it for all my tooling projects. It works really nicely. Just lay it across a part where you arent tooling (make sure it touches the leather AND granite to anchor for a small piece) and that will stay pretty dang still. http://springfieldleather.com/SLC-Original-Dead-Weight You could probably make one yourself, but honestly I think its worth it to just buy. Also be careful, if you get dye on your granite that can get onto the weight and then onto the topside of your projects. If you have a separate spot for dying thats not a problem then. I just get a bit lazy... Best of luck!
  12. Carving, what am I doing wrong?

    I got that same ebay set of tools, and there are maybe 3 tools that you could use in there. The pear shader isnt bad for beginners standards, and the small beveler if polished can be useable until replacements are possible. The small camo tool is okay as well. As for the knife cuts, just keep on carving and practicing. The flow will come. I am finally just starting to get the hang of my knife now and i've been going at it for about a year. A beveler would be the first tool to buy, once you get that you can do some decent figure carving. Make sure you know what tools to use for what part of the piece you want to carve. Best of luck! I'm sorry I can't really give advice on where to buy outside the U.S. but hopefully you can find what you need. You said it @ABHandmade that beveler Is such trash. Whole new world with even an entry level craftool beveler.
  13. Leather dye technique

    I've been trying to get the most out of my fiebings alcohol and oil dyes. The oil dyes work great. No mess needed. The color comes out even and clean, but may be a bit toned down depending on the color. This would be a very easy and clean option. What I like to do now which requires a lot of fuss is using the alcohol dyes and a lot of neatsfoot oil to make a really nice uniform dye and also really nice texture This is my process, others may have different opinions but this gets a really nice finish and color for me. (This is on just tandy craftsman oak veg tan so it works on even cheaper stuff) Also it can get pretty messy so maybe put on some gloves if you're concerned about that. First I slightly dampen the piece of leather. load up a sponge with water and just go over the piece once. Don't drown it. Next I use a piece of sheepswool and get that loaded up with neatsfoot oil. (sponge would probably work fine as well) Go over the piece with the oil, let it sit a few seconds and wipe off and work in the excess. On the same piece of wool, add some of the dye of your choosing. Remove a bit of it by just wiping on some scraps or paper towel, up to you, and go over the piece again with that dye/oil sheep wool. Work in the dye let it sit and then work wipe off the rest with a towel. If you want you can go over this with more oil and buff it out to get a nice waterproof finish or depending on how it looks just leave it. This has worked really well for me for british tan, oxblood, saddle tan, kelly green, navy blue, and even eco flo gel antique (with modifications to the process for the antique) The colors you chose may not work out as well on the leather because of them being lighter so probably test it out on some scraps first. Best of luck on the project, and show us some pictures!
  14. Looking for carving/tooling leather...

    It does seem like this is a water content problem, not the leather. I've been doing some tooling on just cheap tandy craftsman oak and been just fine. The beveling problem you have I've experienced and thats just a matter of making sure the leather is not too wet and that the beveler is going directly into the cut. It seems to be a little bit off the cut causing the ridge there. It also seems to be a bit muddy and dragging. If you allow the leather to dry a bit more the burnished effect will come through more clearly as well as not having the impressions be so defined. The beveling will flow. The swivel cuts dragging and closing is another example of the leather being too wet. Take this into consideration, but if you really think it is just a problem with the leather Herman oak makes some of the best oak tanned tooling leather in the united states. You can get it from a retail seller such as springfield leather company. They only sell up to B grade but thats only determined by bites and imperfections, all the leather goes through the exact same process. Best of luck!
  15. 19th century Hugo Werteim shoe patcher

    Another person you may try to get in contact with is Wayne from Sew what Maryborough. He and his wife do sewing machine repair in Australia as well and may have an idea on where to source parts. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTgxgcI54ZS3g35dAPlyHgQ/featured You can email them if you go to the "About" tab and it should show the email there.