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About tomsmith85717

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  • Interests
    laser,s bags and shoes

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    bags and shoes
  • Interested in learning about
    bags and shoes
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  1. Slip lead

    That is a neat release piece of hardware.
  2. I will toast to that! The problem with industrialization is you get fake (because its cheaper) versions of everything that doesn't need to be faked. Get the real one it will be better and last longer, unless the fake is better, I am looking at you synthetic engine oil (granted it is more expensive than the non fake stuff).
  3. Head Knife Case

    What grit belt on the sander?
  4. White paint and black antique... how is it done?

    Dumb thought, why dont you ask your idol how they did it who knows they might actually answer.
  5. Lets not forget about reconstituted leather where industrial scraps are pulped, glued, embossed and coated with a thin vinyl. Legally its leather and a big part of the low end leather couch industry.
  6. Pilot Travel Bag

    At sub $300 and as many pockets and lines of stitching as it has I would be shocked if the original was thicker than 2/3. If you are looking to sew it with the tippmann you should use the thicker stuff probably over 6 or 8 if you are looking to sew things in the 4/5 oz range sell the tippman and buy the correct machine. No one machine can do everything, look at hammers about as simple a machine as you can get I bet you have more than one and choose different ones for different jobs... a sewing machine is a lot more complicated than a hammer.
  7. Recommended Leather Suppliers (US)

    Call them and tell them just that. Followed by strike 2. Then ask them what they want to do.
  8. Follow Plinkercases advice to a T and you will be fine. Honestly unless your time is worth nothing or you get off on the recycling aspect I have just come to the point where it just isn't worth it to skin roadside leather. Also bed bugs, mites, mold, needles, urine... Nope. I will walk away from a lot of couches that at one point in time I would have gone after.
  9. Umm have you looked at the price of yak hide, you couldn't afford to yak hides are expensive about twice the price of bison. Yak hide tool pouch probably would cost about $90. But to ask the op's original question If you couldn't make 20% over costs bidding them for $12-15 I wouldn't try. Unless made in USA of US parts is important then $15 - 20
  10. Is this something you already make? A wise man once told me what it your day rate? How much do you need to make in a week to live the way you want? If you are an artist look to recoup the cost of your material but charge for your time. If you are a production shop then you need to look at it from total cost of manufacture including the wage at which you could hire someone to do it for you, all over heads, cost of leather and supplies take that total and multiply it by your minimum attractive rate of return say 15 to 30%. Thus... How much is the leather and supplies to do 10 of them how long would it take you to do 10, 100, 500,1000. Is it just you ? Do you have people you pay. Can you make 1000 in a year? Do you want to make 1000 a year? Do you want to be the tool pouch guy? Are you selling to a someone who is reselling them or using them? How much can they sell them for and expect half of that... sooooooo many questions
  11. cobra 26 vs techsew 2750

    I can tell that the cobra is a less common machine, I was hoping to get some first hand info from people making things. It isnt that I inhearently distrust salesmen, it is just that their job is to sell something, I have to take what they say with a grain of salt. Member Gregspitz had some helpful things and I am just looking for more things along those lines. It isnt like IF I bought the "wrong" machine I wouldnt get out from under it I just dont want to waste the time and energy. I will call them shortly I am just trying to gather as much information so I can ask good questions. Better Questions = Better Answers. I am also just curious about Cobra's customer service in general, everyone says Techsew's is top notch that said it is also factored into the price of the machine. If they were the exact same price and on the same stands both with speed reducers I would run screaming to the techsew, but with nearly a $250 (+$130 for the speed reducer=$380 apples to apples) price difference at the base models and a $750 (and still $130 for the speed reducer) gap between the 2750PRO and the cobra 26, that is a lot of leather and other supplies.
  12. cobra 26 vs techsew 2750

    Thanks to those who chimed in in my last thread. I have been trying to do some research on the Techsew 2750 and the Cobra Class 26. A rundown of what I am looking to do with a machine, I want to primarily make bags, and moccasin style shoes. 2 maybe 3 layers of 6-8 oz softer temper leather. I also like to stitch designs on to webbing belts (2 layers of seat belt webbing). The likelihood of me making a holster or sheath out of leather is slim to none. I might venture into leather belts. So here is where I am going to ask for help. What is the difference between them, I like the stand and speed reducer on the class 26. According to the linked thread the cobra uses juki lu bobbins and singer 111 walking feet. I like the fact that those seem off the shelf. I would like a needle position sensor and servo and a seam guide like the techsew 2750 can be set up with. Are the feet and the bobbins for the techsew 2750 off the shelf too or are they specific to techsew? I can clearly see that techsew has top notch customer service, how about cobra? With all the similarities I start getting swayed by the price and there is a widening gap between the cobra and the variants of the techsew. I am pretty sure one of these will be my first industrial sewing machine but it won't be my last. While I am not looking for a super deal, I am looking to wisely spend my money. I have only previously used a pfaff 545 & 1245 and several home machines I have high technical skills/ very handy and am not shy/opposed to modifying or tuning a machine I know my weaknesses are long straight lines and over or under running where I want to go because I am horrible at guessing where my needle/target is under the presser foot. So access to cheap presser feet to modify is a plus. I would like to get a machine in the next month so please help me understand what is going on, the pros and the cons. If you know of a good article, post or video link it or pm me. Thanks I need all the help I can get.
  13. Roller feed vs walking foot

    138 is strong enough to do most of what i am looking at doing but 207 would be nicer.
  14. Roller feed vs walking foot

    I think I might look at the cylinder arm machines first and then pick up a roller feed later... but keep the advice coming I want all I can get before I pull the trigger on a machine.