WoodysWorkshop

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About WoodysWorkshop

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    https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100004659968485

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  • Location
    Reed City, Michigan
  • Interests
    Family, Hunting, Fishing, Wood Working, Model Rockets, Leather Crafting, Knife Customizing, Jack Russell Terriers

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Relearning and broadening my knowledge of all types of Leather Crafting
  • Interested in learning about
    Garments, Clothing, Footware, Coloring
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  1. Sno-Seal by Sorel, an Atsko Co.

    Thanks for the suggestions. I did find out through looking through pictures of the Franklin oil that the new bottles say it contains Neatsfoot Oil. But doesn't say what percentage or mention any other product. I'll assume it's standard Neatsfoot Oil. If memory serves me right, that is what was suggested decades ago to use on new gloves to loosen them up. But I did put a question in to Franklin Products to make sure that the stuff I have is the same formula as the new stuff.
  2. Sno-Seal by Sorel, an Atsko Co.

    No, never on the inside. But the one's that I used the Sno-Seal on had at least 600 Grams of Thinsulate and either Gortex or Ultra Dry by Red Wing/Irish Setter Boots. I did try it on the back of the sheath. Left it a little waxy, but I'm sure that will ware off over time. I'm not fully satisfied with the results on the first sheath. For the next one I have some old Franklyn Baseball Glove oil. Back in those days (over 4 decades) contents were not manditory on the container, so I have no idea of the make up of the product. But I just sat down to look on the net and see what I can find out about it as it does have a part number on it. And I need to look up a "Lacing How To" as I just glued the front to the back of the first sheath. I haven't done any lacing since middle school (over 4 decades too). And this is 4 layers thick of 5-6oz so I need a fancy type lace to cover the width.
  3. I've been putting my boots in the oven and treating them with Sno-Seal for decades. After my last attempt with Neetsfoot Oil, I'm thinking I'm going to try Sno-Seal on the inside and backside of latest knife sheaths before I stitch, lace and rivet them. Sno-Seal is an all natural product of Bees, specifically 100% processed Bees Wax with no additives or chemicals. It contains no grease or artificial chemicals like other water sealing products. Bear grease and artificial products can cause bacteria growth, and speed up the process of aging and drying out the leather if not regularly treated. I'm just curious if anyone has tried Bees Wax, specifically Sno-Seal on anything? I did a search of Sno-Seal, and nothing specifically turned up for it. I will continue on with my results under this thread when I get finished for future reference.
  4. Bridle Edge Dye

    Eco Flow Super Shene is all I have.
  5. SOOOOOO MUCH SCRAP!!!!

    Search on Pinterest, lots of ideas there. I used some of my scraps on knives I got at an auction that only had a handle insert on one side, customized with a name. Takes little time and a little epoxy. Rings are something else I'm going to look into doing. Change purses, wrist straps, maybe knife handle wraps on fixed blades. Sheaths for folding lockbacks. Cell phone cases, Ipad and other tech device cases. I carry a little note pad in my pocket everywhere I go, I thought about making a leather cover for it to keep the pages from curling. Wallets, coasters, even fanny packs.
  6. Ks blade punch

    As a wood worker...That is a piece of pride! Very well done, and the choice of hardware sets it off rather nicely! I am going to guess that there are magnets involved for holding the tools in place and closures?
  7. Distressed Holster - & story

    That looks pretty darn good! The darker ware area's are in just the right spots. Would you care to share your method? Or is it your trade secret?
  8. Bridle Edge Dye

    I have been using Hi-Lite to slick with. Seams to work out fine for me. I just brush on some shene afterwards. But they do make edge paint, but I've yet to afford it to try.
  9. I have a problem I need help solving with finish work

    I'm really new to all of this. I learned some 40+ years ago in middle school. After life changing events I no longer have my wood shop, so I'm taking something up to take up my time that I can do in the apartment here. So it's a learn as I go type thing. As for color bleeding, I don't think that will happen. All the color I used was paint, not dye or stain.. But good questions!
  10. I have a problem I need help solving with finish work

    Thanks for the advise. I put the super shene on one side, the neats foot oil on the other. I'm a figurin I put too much oil on and it soaked through to the front side and goed the shene. Lesson learned. And per the link and advice, I used some household alcohol and scrubbed with an old toothbrush and all turned out well. I've got 3 other sheaths in the making, but they are on hold as I've taken them as far as I can. Need to acquire some funds for color to finish. All 3 are for fixed blades. One I made a mold and formed it, one I used spacers, and the last one I did a fold w/spacer on one side. One will laced, one stitched, maybe 2 row stitched (by hand) and the last rivited (maybe stitched too) to work on those processes.
  11. interesting vacuum form

    Vacuum forming can be use for so many different things. Me, being a Wood Worker for over 40 years... I prefer the old fashioned way and make a wood form and leave it clamped over night. But if I had one, making laminated curved pieces would be much, much easier...but not less messy...nothing can help that.
  12. leather cane

    I use a cane. The pain from my low spine to my right hip won't let me put much weight on my right leg without falling down. In my case, I think it would suit better as a fanny spanker. I know people frown on spankings these days...but that is what's wrong with today's youth. Being bad in Jr. High got you the wooden paddle with holes drilled in it. An at home I got the belt or Hot Wheels track.
  13. How I made a burnisher for free!

    I seen a You Tube video once where a guy drilled a hole in a block of Pine, epoxied in a nail (1/8" I'm guessing) and cut off the head. Mounted in a dremel and ruffed it out round with a rasp files, and worked to a milled files and then to sand paper. Seamed to work. The work you did looks fun to do. Makes me wish I had something laying around to put a motor out of. I'm going to have to try that epoxy the nail in a block thing soon. Anyone think of a reason pine wouldn't be a good wood? I might have a small chunk of maple or oak some wheres left over from my wood shop....when I had it.
  14. Tooled Wedges/Leather Wedges

    I wouldn't be afraid to buy a cheap pair of heals somewhere and cut off the top and try sewing to what's left.