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About R8R

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  1. Down the road you won't care about the extra shipping. Its a great motor and it's priced well for what it does.
  2. Nope. I mean, maybe? Occasionally? It doesn't climb well. It doesn't climb at all really. It's great for small items. Purses, slippers, makeup bags, wallets, small cylindrical items, etc. It doesn't like thick assemblies.
  3. Uh....This is industrial sewing...until you've put in the time and have dealt with the learning curve, keep a bottle of aspirin handy.
  4. I do mostly heavy duty nylons and some leather trims. I mostly use my Juki 2810. I shopped for a Juki 246, new price at my local dealer was $4600 USD. I ended up ordering a clone, which was a nightmare. (returned it) I found a Mauser (Pfaff) 335 locally and while it works great for small projects, it is in no way suited for heavy sewing. It is best suited to thinner assemblies and small articles. I have a Adler 669 on order, it was about the same price as the Juki 246. I will be posting a full review here on LW once it arrives. It has a similar capacity to the 2810 but with a small diameter cylinder arm, which should make it perfect for my needs.
  5. Juki 1541 or Cowboy 3200

    Artisan 1508-10H (Juki 1508NH copy) is a less expensive alternate for a flatbed. The motor is decent and the table is very nice. 38mm needle stroke and will sew at least a 207 (up to 277 claimed). The CB3200 with a flatbed will give you lots of options but at some point you will need to stage out more than one machine to cover what you need to do.
  6. SP-1100NPFL motor has to be the best value out there right now. With a 50mm pulley I think it's the perfect motor for any walking foot machine, especially for the price.
  7. Also, alternate from one screw to the other. Sometimes with needle plates loosening one screw even a small amount will unlock the other screw that seemed frozen.
  8. One more vote for PB blaster. Also consider a right-angle offset screw driver. It allows you to really set the screw bit squared into the slot and gives greater torque. I use the small ratcheting one by General Tools and it's a life saver.
  9. If it sews well $700 is not a bad price, even for a machine with no auto functions, and it comes with the converter already. All the bells and whistles are a bonus if and when you need them. Needle positioning, auto backtack and foot lift are actually handy to have. If it was like $1400 or more I would pass, but $700 is doable. Not the *best* choice for a first machine, but a nice machine regardless.
  10. Caster wheels for machines

    This thread explains it pretty well:
  11. Caster wheels for machines

    Remember that even a 2" locking caster will raise the table up a few inches. Often the treadle cross arms will need to be lowered with blocks or pieces of tubing to make them comfortable to use.
  12. Seiko HVP-70

    I did a general search for the HVP-70 and found some other iterations (for Adler machines, etc). This looks to be a general motor platform that is programmed (firmware?) by Ho Hsing for various manufacturers/models, with different parameters highlighted depending on the iteration. Found this one for an Adler 271 with MANY more parameter entries than the Seiko: http://www.vadana.nl/media/files/PDF durkopp adler/271 272/AC servo motor.pdf Parameter 118 toggled "ON" switches it to "Converting to a clutch motor selection". That worked, positioning turns off and it's a vanilla motor. Weird to phrase it as "clutch motor" though.
  13. The Ho Hsing G60 can go as low as 100 spm (according to the manual) and the Jack is about 200? So yeah it would be slightly better, and the price difference is less than the cost of a speed reducer. I am not one to ask though, as I have a curiosity problem when it comes to motors. If I even remotely think one will work better than what I have, I'll try it. My current favorite is the Seiko HVP-70 I picked up cheap on ebay. It's actually made by Ho Hsing. It does everything and the parameter settings chart is endless. 50 spm low speed start, and it's quiet.
  14. My experience (outside of sewing) is that nylon tends to have slightly better elasticity whereas polyester has lower elongation in general - it can be stretched and "broken in" and does not lose tension after. Example - in screen printing, polyester monofilament mesh is the most common used woven mesh material as it can be tensioned, work-hardened and re-tensioned so as to produce a dimensionally stable stencil. Nylon on the other hand is used when some elasticity and flexibility is desired, such as for printing 3D objects and irregular surfaces, such as containers and bottles. Another example is most modern drum heads are made of polyester film (1 or 2 ply). This makes for a head that can be tuned to a pitch, broken in, and will maintain it's pitch. Nylon films would be a nightmare! Kevlar mesh is also used, laminated with polyester films for some heads that are under high tension, such as for drum corps use. Just my $0.02
  15. Not common with hobby sewing but it's a fantastic feature once you get used to it. Typically with motors it's: Motor only Motor + needle positioning Motor + needle positioning + foot lift output Motor + needle positioning + foot lift output + every thing else (trimmer, backtack, etc etc) College has the Jack, ISM, Ho Hsing and Efka options. The 750w Jack and ISM will offer needle positioning and decent power. The Ho Hsing and Efka will have really good speed control and power but you are also paying for many features you won't use unless your machine is equipped for it. (automatic function solenoids, etc)