Russ498

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About Russ498

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    Pasadena, Maryland

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    I am a newbie and don’t have a specialty
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  1. I see Angelus leather paint, but I'm looking for a dye.
  2. Does anyone know if there is a source for pink leather dye or white leather die that I can mix with currently available red dyes to make pink? Thanks all
  3. I use it daily, but I don't use a lot. I make mostly police badge cases and holsters.
  4. No, mine is getting thick in the glue pot. It won’t run off of the brush.
  5. Can you thin Barge cement with anything other than their proprietary center? I'd like to be able to get something at the local hardware store. Shipping on this stuff is pretty high because of the hazmat. It looks like toluene is the primary ingredient but I can't find that at Lowe's. The only thing I can find that is close is Xylene. Thanks for your help
  6. I make primarily police products such as badge cases, wallets, and holsters. Up till now I had been making just about everything in the various shades of tan and brown. Lately, have had a lot of request for black items. I emboss most of my stuff with custom-made CNC stamps. With all of the colored items, I'd always used antiquing to highlight the embossing. Any idea how to enhance the embossing on black leather? None of the antiquing products that I use do any good. Thanks for your help
  7. I make primarily police products such as badge cases, wallets, and holsters. Up till now I had been making just about everything in the various shades of tan and brown. Lately, have had a lot of request for black items. I emboss most of my stuff with custom-made CNC stamps. With all of the colored items, I'd always used antiquing to highlight the embossing. Any idea how to enhance the embossing on black leather? None of the antiquing products that I use do any good. Thanks for your help
  8. I make primarily police products such as badge cases, wallets, and holsters. Up till now I had been making just about everything in the various shades of tan and brown. Lately, have had a lot of request for black items. I emboss most of my stuff with custom-made CNC stamps. With all of the colored items, I'd always used antiquing to highlight the embossing. Any idea how to enhance the embossing on black leather? None of the antiquing products that I use do any good. Thanks for your help
  9. I just bought a glue pot from Weaver. It is the type with the brush going through a cylindrical lid that I am guessing is supposed to keep the glue sealed when the brushes in place. I have been using Barge glue which is pretty pricey. Is this type of glue pot meant to store the glue long-term words this one that you fill just for the days use? I don't want to put $40 worth of glue in it and have it harden up before the next day. Using the glue out of the can with the built-in brush is kind of a pain and can be messy. Thanks for your help
  10. How to stiffen a notebook cover

    That is the type clip I am looking for. I may try gluing the clipboard to the leather.
  11. I have someone who wants to order a number of notebook covers for a standard 8.5" x 11" pad. I know how to stiffen the leather by soaking in warm water but I would like to sew something in between the leather and a lightweight lining to stiffen it. Any ideas??? Also, does anyone have any idea where to get the spring clips that hold the pad of paper in?? I may just go with a leather flap where you slide the cardboard in but I would prefer to have the clip. Thanks all
  12. Does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative to using Gum Trag to smooth out the back of unlined the leather? When I try to make small production runs, it seems like I always get a little bit on the front which messes up the dye. I use Fiebings Oil Pro. As an alternative, is there anything I can use to clean the front of the leather if I should get Gum Trag on it? I use it to finish the edges but don't have any problems since everything is already dyed and sewn.
  13. I am new to leathercraft. I started buying mostly Tandy products. I started using their water-based dyes but very quickly became dissatisfied with the streaky results. I made the decision to go all in and switch to Fiebings Pro (oil) dye. I ordered a small container of every color they have. I know that it uses an alcohol carrier. I did order several containers of the dye reducer. My questions: 1) What is the best agent to use for cleanup whether it be hands or work surfaces? 2) I prefer to spray whenever possible. Does this need to be diluted to go through an airbrush. If so, what is the best ratio? Is there any other readily available substance that can be used to reduce this such as rubbing alcohol? 3) I always pretreated leather with Neatsfoot oil to aid in dye absorption. Is this necessary with this product? 4) How long does it take to dry and how long should you wait before you begin other work on the leather? Thanks all
  14. Very informative video. The first mistake that I see that I'm making is I am trying to shoot from the inside of the project out rather than shooting from the perimeter. One big difference I still see is that whatever product is being used didn't immediately soak into the leather and turn gray, it remained on the surface and still looks black. Did they use some type of resist on it first? Do you know what brand or type of dye was being used? Thanks for all your help.
  15. I have seen pictures of other people's work where the border is airbrushed in black and fades towards the center. Looks great. I tried to do it on some of my things and they don't turn out so good. I have been using Tandy's water-based dyes. The dye tends to pool up and look really gray when it dries out. I know that I am putting on a little bit too much on but that's in an effort to make it look black rather than washed out gray. I am thinking that I should probably be using a paint rather than a dye. Does anyone have any recommendations about a good product to use for this purpose. I am pretty good at using the airbrush to fade the product in.