SaddleBags

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About SaddleBags

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Central California
  • Interests
    Saddle Making, Cowboy Tack and Gear

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Saddle Making
  • Interested in learning about
    Techniques and traditional skills
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Fellow Leatherworker
  1. Maul Help

    Wayne Jeuschke!!! GREAT mauls, not so expensive
  2. Saddle #4 - 3B Slick Fork

    Absolutely beautiful Taps!!! Where did you get your pattern? Make it?
  3. I'm kinda like Yin. I can only tell you what I do. 1) I use Everclear to reduce. As for cleaning your hands. I never have that problem. Nitrile gloves are the easiest thing to use and throw away - with or without latex. 2) I don't spray but have heard that you should reduce (thin) to spray. 3) I oil everything prior to dyeing to give life to the leather. This I do regardless of what type or color I'm using. 4) I usually let it dry over night.
  4. If I may suggest: If I were doing this, I'd leave the neatsfoot along for a bit and give everything a thorough cleaning ( I use liquid glycerine saddle soap, and I use enough to make you believe it's free), and remove everything that can be safely removed. Then I'd apply Skidmore's conditioner to begin the softening process, not expecting much in the way of visible results in a hurry. Some stitching will doubtless have to be replaced, and to do this, you need for the leather to be soft enough so that the needle doesn't granulate the leather. Clean out all the affected stitch holes. Let me know when you get to this stage.
  5. Custom Order Sling

    I Like this a lot! I just finished a stock sleeve for my single-shot 20 ga, which I made so I could grab it and not have to sort through 12 ga and 20 ga shells. (Darn crows, anyway!) This looks WAY better, although I wouldn't use a sling on the shotgun, but I can see where it would come in handy on a combination piece such as you describe.
  6. I guess some might calls these "repairs", but I'd call this a major re-build! Nice looking product. I di one about 15 years ago. The leather was so hard it took well over a year before I could get it in condition to accept a needle. Since then I've undertaken a few, but only those that have some intrinsic worth -- nothing without Makers Mark and/or provenance. Just too much work for an ornament - unless, of course, the payout is there, which it normally isn't. I just finished a side saddle that was built in about 1900 on the Goodnight pattern. The lady it was built for was from an old ranching family in California with a very rich history. What are your, Dwight?
  7. Need saddle trees for Welsh ponies

    I have a couple of Arabian trees, but no welsh ponies to try them on. If I find one, I'll try it.
  8. Hello from Morrow Ohio

    Used to live in Caledonia. Nice looking work
  9. Need saddle trees for Welsh ponies

    Call Harlan down at Bowden Saddletrees in Doniphan, Texas. Website used to be saddletree.com.
  10. Cartridge Belt Help

    Sounds to me like you're talking about a ranger type setup. Your best help can come from getting a pattern pack on making holsters (or even belts). But if you want to start work right now, then set it up so that the running end of the belt (that's the end without teh buckle) goes behind the buckle end and through a keeper, which it normally sewed or riveted to the body of the belt between the buckle-end overlay and around the main body of the belt. I found this post from a few years ago that might answer you question.
  11. tree fit question

    Great words, Nelson!!! That is about as concise as you can get and I agree with every single word.
  12. tree fit question

    Mikesh, Hasbeen is right on top of it. If there were a one-size fits all solution, then this saddlemaking game would be much simpler. But as I like to remind myself, there are many right way and many wrong ways to build a saddle. ...and there and many right ways and many wrong ways to fit a tree to a horse. I prefer making to fit "horses of a type" rather than making to fit a specific horse. Other than the one horse I built specifically for (and that horse was built more like a giraffe) I can honestly say that the saddles can move freely amongst others of the same type. While I didn't intend to intimate (re-read my previous post if in doubt) that ALL white marks are cause by bridging, nor are they all caused by too narrow a gullet. All I'm saying is that if I have the latitude to do so, I prefer to address the bridging issue in the building of a saddle rather than in the saddling process. Seems to me that eliminating what variables you can is the prudent course, no matter how long you have been in the business or how old you might be.
  13. tree fit question

    Well, Mike, What I think you are suggesting is to intentionally induce "bridging" in your saddlemaking. Most of us try to avoid this. If a guy has 25 horses in training, he can probably afford to buy a couple of well-fitting saddles. If he's trying to "make do", then he will soon run out of clients. When you see horses in the movies or on TV and they have white spots on their loins and withers, this is mostly because the saddles "bridge". This is uncomfortable for the horse, as not only do the ends of the bars carry all of the saddle's weight, they also carry the totality of the rider's weight. Add to this that the saddle with slip about under "performance conditions" and you can see why this isn't a good idea. As a parallel, get yourself a backpack weighing about 70 pounds or so, and then where the pack frame contacts your hips and shoulders, add a block of wood, then go run a couple of miles. Makes a believer of you.
  14. Dry leather glue issue

    Barge also sells a thinner especially for the glue. I also just add "new" glue. Either way works. I have taken to using Masters. because of the hazardous material considerations here in the Peoples' Democratic Republic of California. ... can't buy Barge's in quantity without hazardous material fees.
  15. I was scared to try to remove the butt of the handle, as there weren't any screw slots and I didn't want to ruin the knife. Any secret?