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About katit

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  1. Avoiding machine stitching hypnosis

    I thought it's just me. If I go slow - all is good. If I want to go faster - my eyes focus on a needle and I stop seeing whole thing :0
  2. Steve, I have same motor on my Pfaff 1245. With original 75mm pulley it was little too fast for me. With 45mm pulley it is much better. Keep in mind I'm learning too, so it may not be a problem to someone with experience. To me - this one change is good enough, but I'm working on upholstery stuff. For small items like you mentioned I would probably think about reducer, but again, I think this is 95% experience and 5% motor reducer
  3. Tom, Thanks a lot for explanations! #1 - I did practice but need to work on it. Not always getting through the same hole result. #2 - Didn't practice yet, but I didn't realize that reverese lever can be used for that, all videos I've seen involved pressure release and material movement. #3 - I will practice more. Yesterday I tried to increase tension on both top/bottom and started to get a lot of tangles on a bottom. Took me awhile to figure out. What happened was that top thread got out of tensioner and was on a tensioner spool but not between plates. And even with releaved pressure it wasn't getting in. Good expirience I guess! #4 - See picture. I think it makes less dust now. It is straight, it does deflect about 1 inch. Completely inside pulley on bottom pulley, top pulley see pic, about even.
  4. Cowboy 1508 vs Juki 1508

    I wish we had those choices here in St Louis NONE since July.
  5. PFAFF 1245 thread tension

    Got it! Makes sense, then my theory not good and I need to setup tension whenever I deal with different materials...
  6. PFAFF 1245 thread tension

    Got it. Another question about needle I just thought about.. What is signs of "dull" needle? When you change needle, do you keep it or get rid of it? I read somewhere to get rid of old needles and not mix with new. Especially that sizes is almost impossible to read.. I'm most likely going to change from 19/20 to 22 when doing french seams and vice versa Q2: Does tension work the same for all materials? For example, I did 2 layers of vinyl, looks good. I did 3 layers of leather and had to make adjustment to top tension. To me it looks like vinyl looked good because it's thin/soft and I didn't notice difference. With thicker leather thread tension misadjustment became more visible. It almost seems like I need to adjust thread tension on thicker/tougher material and then it will be good for thinner stuff. Am I correct or it's wrong?
  7. PFAFF 1245 thread tension

    Understood. Then I just do what I did? Eyeball position? I was thinking there is some trick on installing needle "precisely". Or maybe turning it right/left slightly will affect something.
  8. PFAFF 1245 thread tension

    Forgot to ask simple question. Maybe I'm missing something. In my machine needle shank is just round. I can install it pretty much any way I want. What I was doing is using needle threader to get it where hole is inline with main shaft. But obviously it's not 100%. I would expect needles to be ground on left side for the screw but they aren't. How do you install them?
  9. Finally installed 45mm pulley on a bottom (smaller belt needed, OReilly didn't have right size, had to get online). So, for less that $20 I got machine slow the way I need. For material thickness I will use it's enough to penetrate, motor setting is about 950RPM, this gives me good control and can go decently fast when pushed. Also tried guide foot. nice even seam, not bad for newbie Have couple more questions: 1. When locking seam with reverse, what is the correct procedure? Specifically items I'm curious about: - Should I start sewing and then reverse? Which means I will get 3 stiches through the hole. Or should I start backwards and then go in? - When I reverse a lot of time I don't get holes aligned, sometimes I have missed stitch. I think it' because of the timing. When should I back-stitch? Needle up? Down? 2. When I need to make shorter stitch, how should I do it? For example, I need 1/2 stitch, what is correct steps to do it? 3. When sewing french seam (like on picture), what needs to be done so there is no visible thread inside? You see on start/end some vinyl, this is where backstitching was done 4. I see some belt black "dust" on sewing table. Is that normal for new belt or my tension might be little too tight?
  10. PFAFF 1245 thread tension

    I tried #20 LR and #19R. No visible difference on top stitch, with LR I get straight stitch on a bottom. Top definitely tighter, smaller hole.
  11. Yes, St Louis, MO. Places I found that sell original german BMW leather sent me samples - very soft I would say. Leather I pulled from seats very hard but from age, don't know what it was back then.
  12. It's for 94 BMW 5 series. And it's St Louis. Get's pretty hot. Car tinted now, should have less UV impact.
  13. Well, I do have exact task: Reupholster car seats. In reality I don't think I will drive more than 50k miles in this car. But I do want leather to last 10 years even if parked in sun. I also want leather to feel and look nice. I did see nice upholstery hides at Tandys, but not sure if "upholstery" is the same as "automotive".
  14. PFAFF 1245 thread tension

    So, for what I have it's normal? I am new to this, don't even know what "proper" look should be. When you say "tighter" - isn't it a function of tightening bottom (and, in turn, top) ? Right now bottom have some resistance and top is close to maxing out on loosening. I ordered Schmetz #19 standard (R) and Organ #20 LR
  15. PFAFF 1245 thread tension

    After posting pictures I noticed that it looks like not enough tension on top (judging by blue vinyl bottom) So, I did another run inside after adjusting little (tighten top). Still little loose. I did yet another adjustment and did inner most run. Now it looks like vinyl is perfect. But leather looks horrible on a bottom.