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About LederMaschinist

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  1. Consew 226-Thread Escaping Needle

    I noticed you started stitchng with two threads held back, and at some point one disappeared and you were left holding one thread. I think these guys have it right. It does appear that the needle is being threaded right to left rather than left to right and the hook is simply pulling the thread back out of the needle but it appears that it's magically escaping the eye. The other possibility is that you have a broken needle that took a hook strike to the eye, and one side of the needle hole is actually broken but appears to be whole because the break springs shut and closes the gap when not actively sewing.
  2. Union lockstitch in action

    That appears to be something like a Gast air motor. Lots of power and torque in a small package. Similar to this one: http://vactech.com.my/product/vacuum-pumps/4am-gast/ I happened to just be looking at these yesterday with the idea of using one backwards as a belt driven compressor powered by the clutch motor to charge a small airtank that could be used for a pneumatic presser lift.
  3. Consew 206RB rotary hook diameter request.

    That's an interesting idea. Considering it's just a couple dollars worth of bronze of bronze and a little setup time, it would be a good way to see if the whole plan will work before changing pulleys and belt. Some quick math (I cheated and drew it up) shows it's going to be half a degree or less of slope to the hook shaft. I don't think spinning the rotary hook half a degree off axis will hurt function. I've seen a similar machine on youtube with a bent hook shaft running much further out than that and it stitched just fine.
  4. Consew 206RB rotary hook diameter request.

    Thanks for the info. Right now it uses metal flange bearings for the hook shaft that are .500" diameter and the hook shaft itself is .217" (5.5mm). So I could make new .500" bearings and move the hole for the hook shaft up to about .130" before the wall would get too thin on the side of the hook shaft hole in the bearing. This means I wouldn't have to do any machining on the bed casting itself, and it would be a simple bearing swap with some careful alignment of the new eccentric holes. I had already planned on changing that swiss cheese belt to an industrial grade timing belt, which will involve changing the pulleys anyway. So I can just source the proper size belt and pulleys for the new spacing from top shaft to hook shaft. It's also possible that there's enough slack in the existing belt to handle an additional .220 of pulley to pulley loop circumference without changing pulleys or belt. Filing the slot for the stitch length is exactly what I did. The feed dogs have about .225" of travel now and when I pushed the internal lever beyond the slot, I was able to get the dogs walking about .265". It's weird how some parts are sized in inches and some parts are obviously metric. And some aren't inch or metric and are something entirely non-standard and different. It looks like I might have found a 144w204 for the big, heavy duty stuff I want to do.
  5. Consew 206RB rotary hook diameter request.

    Lol. How much too large? There's room to move the shaft lower either with offset bushings or larger bushings set lower and plenty of room front and back. I'm lucky it's a small machine because it will fit on my mill. By the way, did you know a singer 95 will easily do 4.5 spi, and with a little more work will do just under 4?
  6. I have a favor to ask of the Consew 206RB or equivalent owners here on the forum. I'm looking for the outside diameter of the rotary hook, and an approximate distance from the point of the actual hook to the face of the collar where it runs against the bushing on the hook shaft as if it were standing on that face upright on a table. Careful measurement with a ruler would work, but a caliper measurement would be ideal. If anyone is wondering, I plan on doing something ill-advised and somewhat foolish. Thanks.
  7. Its good to know that you have needles that are almost compatible, I'll call tomorrow and order some needles. Modifying the needle bar is not a problem. I have all sorts of tooling designed to cut hardened tool steel. So I guess the question is, if you had your choice of needle type up to about size 19 or 22, what type would that needle be?
  8. I got my first machine a few weeks ago, and am just getting it set up. First of all, let me disclose that it's a Singer 95-1. I am fully aware that this machine is in no way shape or form designed to sew leather.....yet. The reason I bought it was that it was on a table that's in excellent condition with a consew clutch and westinghouse motor.. I got the whole thing for $60, and figured it would be useful to have the table so I won't need one if I found an ideal machine without a table. Being a machinist and a tinkerer, I figured I'd use parts that I have laying around the shop to see if I can get this thing to at least be usable for leather and other heavy materials. So far I think it's actually doing pretty well. I put a 2" pulley on the clutch, and a gigantic 8" pulley in place of the balance wheel and a v belt instead of the leather round belt it came with. The machine looks ridiculous considering how small it is in relation to the pulley, but it is also very effective for manual stitching. Whoever decided that the top shaft on this machine should be .540" in diameter instead of a standard fractional size, made things somewhat more difficult. Just had to bore out the pulley hub and spacers from 1/2". I can now do about one and a half stitches per second with careful clutch control and with the flywheel inertia from the large pulley and the additional torque, it doesn't even hesitate punching through thick material. It doesn't seem to have an issue with #69 bonded nylon, and I think I can get it to work with #92 but haven't tried it yet. Good enough for wallets and camping gear. The issue I'm having is that it uses 88 x 1 (1128, DA x 1, take your pick of sizing convention) needles. I haven't even been able to find a leather point needle of that type, and selection is very limited. I bought some common 110/18 needles to study a bit.. It seems to me that the critical dimension is the distance from the end of the needle bar to the eye of the needle. The points of the needles in the 110/18's extend slightly further below the eye, that might cause a timing issue. The needle bar on this machine is a simple .250" rod with a needle socket on the end and a set screw. The 88 x 1 needles have a .0625" (1/16") shank, while the common needles have a 2mm shank. It would be easy to drill out the socket to the correct size and depth for the common needles to get the eye in the right position. Or I could make some new bars so I'll have an assortment. Is there any reason this can't be done? And if it can be done, what type of needle should I be designing the needle bar modification to fit? Thanks, I hope this isn't a silly question. So far I only have about $90 into this machine and some time. As usual the problem solving aspects have been pretty enjoyable.
  9. Cast iron bed crack - options

    It sure looks like you know what you're doing, but make sure the angle is dead straight before you use it to align the bed. The tolerances the mills use for straightness are nowhere near straight enough for this project. That doesn't mean they aren't straight, it just means they might not be straight enough.
  10. What should I look for on a used Juki LU-563?

    Interesting. I just assumed it was reverse, because most of the old singer stitch length adjustments come out the front with a knob. I have very problematic feet, and the actual reason I'm looking to find a machine is so I can make the perfect work boot. I just wish this singer was a little more robust. Although, I doubt it would have much trouble with a couple layers of 6oz oil tan.
  11. What should I look for on a used Juki LU-563?

    Would that simply be a spring replacement with one that's stronger and not worn out? I saw a picture somewhere once of a machine that had an external bungee cord holding the reverse lever down. Speaking of reverse levers, I also came across this post bed singer. It's a 51W30. The ismacs site makes no mention of a reverse lever for this model, but there is what appears to be a reverse lever on the right side. Is that a reverse lever? I also see no adjustment for stitch length.
  12. What should I look for on a used Juki LU-563?

    Thanks, that's all good information. Incidentally, those are pretty much the same things I look for in metalworking machinery when I'm contemplating the purchase of a used machine.
  13. Hi all, I'm new to the forum here, but have been interested in leatherworking since making a belt with my father when I was 6 years old. I'm just starting to look at sewing machines, and have found a Juki LU-563 in the area that's for sale at a pretty decent price, IF it operates as it should. It certainly shows some external wear (fairly worn paint, but no evident rust or damage), and it has been owned by an avid quilter since it was new. Can anyone give me any specific problem areas on this machine that I should inspect, and maybe some general pointers as well? Or perhaps a good resource that will tell me what to look for. I also have a singer 95-1 that I bought for $60. I am aware that it is far from ideal for leather working, but figured I could fit it with a wheel presser foot and use it for lighter items. Mostly I bought it because it came with a newer table with clutch motor in excellent condition. Now I don't have to look for a machine that comes with a table, and I have already sourced parts to build a reducer. I happen to be a self-employed machinist for my day job, so I am fairly mechanically inclined, and have a pretty capable machine shop at my disposal. In other words I'm not too worried about being able to service the machine myself even if it involves making new parts from scratch. Thanks.