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About LeatherCritic

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  1. LeatherCritic

    Cleaning Veg Tan Before Dyeing

    Well I have saddle soap, aussie conditioner, atom wax, and super sheen. I really like the aussie. Probably will do Atom Wax + Aussie combo.
  2. LeatherCritic

    Cleaning Veg Tan Before Dyeing

    This was super helpful especially the last bit about NFO compound. I had to check and didn’t realize my Fiebing’s was in fact NFO compound. Though I’m not sure why those additives are considered negative. i guess it’s a good thing I also picked up EVOO. I assume that’s a suitable alternative to NFO.
  3. This question started as a result of having some not-so-high-quality leather, that has some soft dirt marks, but now I’m curious about general prep practices before cleaning the leather. I was considering using denatured alcohol to wipe the leather with a sponge, before doing any cleaning. I understand this is effective, but also that it may dry the leather out. So, is it better to water down the leather first? Will that help to prevent the drying/hardening provided by the alcohol? I was then curious about the wetness of just water, since that tends to be used to help mold/form leather. Wouldn’t the water also cause hardening? Should the process be to: 1. sponge water and remove most dirt that can 2. use a light amount of denatured 3. add water 4. mold to final state 5. dye I’m considering something like making 3-piece gussets, where the molding may be important, yet hard to dye after molded (without dipping). I know it’s not ideal (or as affective) but can the leather be re-watered and molded after being dyed for those pieces? I also use denatured alcohol for cutting my Pro dyes, so there’s a lot of potential for drying out. I’m not sure what the best process should be to clean and dye. I would like to add a cleaning process, regardless if the vegtan leather seems to need it or not, just for consistency between final products.
  4. LeatherCritic

    Input on Weights for Laptop Bag

    Yeah As I understand it, even 6/7oz might be a little weak, but plenty of people are making messenger bags or laptop bags out of it that seem fairly firm. I was thinking the shoulder pieces have a little less "give" , so I might be able to get away with it at 4/5oz, using water for a little hardening of the gussets and then adding more denatured alcohol to the dye to stiffen it up even more. And it'd be a 3-piece gussets, not a unibody. I thought the gussets would be my main concern, since they seem like they're more of the backbone of the bag and the panels just need to attach to them, but I don't know. Matching a 6/7oz gusset to a 4/5oz panel seemed like an interesting experiment too and perhaps one that might reduce the overall weight of the bag without sacrificing much else (and also reducing costs). Thanks for your feedback!
  5. LeatherCritic

    Input on Weights for Laptop Bag

    I was curious if anyone had any input on weights for a laptop bag / briefcase. I have a decent amount of 4/5oz shoulders and double shoulders on hand and a limited amount of 6/7oz usable material. This left me curious about a few different options: Would a 4/5oz 15" laptop back be sturdy enough alone? What if the gussets were semi-hardened? And is it possible to do so without leather stiffener? For instance, would a wet wash be enough? What about a combination of 6/7oz for the gussets and 4/5oz for the front/rear panels? How about doubling up 4/5oz (back-to-back) to make 8/10oz? — sounds thick and like it might require a lot of stitching Anyhow, I'm interested to see the responses as I've been watching YouTube videos and reading these forums for months, but haven't taken on a project this big yet.