nstarleather

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About nstarleather

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    Leatherworker

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Contemporary Leather goods
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  1. Heavy duty industrial planer but yep.
  2. Just in case you though I meant we use wood boards... no ours are red but the the wood shop planes them for much cheaper than sending them off.
  3. The main problem I'm seeing is that doing a "folded edge" design is many times harder than the normal bifolds most of us do. When you do turned edges a lot can go wrong, you're adding extra layers which means you either have to skive the edges precisely or use thin/soft leather, which isn't ideal for a wallet. Many of the imported wallets you find with that type of design actually use lots of non-leather parts (linings and stiffeners) to make it easier. Yes I've seen quality wallets with this design (Moore and Giles), but you're taking about a $400+ wallet ($500+ for alligator). Try a non-turned edge design (if you haven't already), you'll find it 1000x easier.
  4. If it's not rotting then it's been treated in some way... DIY way to tan a snake skin is tack it flesh side up to a board and cover with salt. Take off and rub with alcohol and glycerin. You can brush off the loose scales... If they're stiff the best thing to search for would be how to soften them up...
  5. Beautiful, I love that leather!
  6. Picking out leather at the store is kinda like picking out fruit at the grocery store... If you're there in person you can pick only the ripest, best fruit, but if you order by phone or online you have to trust your supplier and also lower your expectations a little (or expect to pay significantly more). If the leather is "within normal limits" but not perfect (or as good as you'd pick out yourself), you just have to accept it as long is it's not really really bad...
  7. If you're using lace you'll basically need to cut a separate buckle part, and probably do a separate part with the holes our of a solid leather. Alternatively you could do a mystery braid.
  8. Related but not exactly the same, the chain of the zipper doesn't usually wear out, even with nylon zippers (unless you're dealing with really low quality stuff). I have handbags with nylon zippers come back to me with years and years of use and it's almost always just the pull that wears out; I open the end, slide on a new zipper pull and you're good to go. The pulls themselves are metal and eventually it just fatigues with use. The only time I have a nylon zipper fail is when the teeth get damaged some way.
  9. HI Folks, I bought a pretty large lot of this Essex Leather from Horween. I'm wiling to move some of it because it will take a while to use it all.. It's officially "Parisian Blue" but honestly, I'll label it Navy when I sell things made from it. It's a dark blue but not as dark as the "real navy" Essex that I was also offered. The backs are finished beautifully, very smooth. Sides roughly 20 feet per. $3.50 per foot (full sides only). Buy 5 Sides or more price drops to $3. Pay shipping from 29741. Horween's price on this stuff is around $7.50 per foot.
  10. I have $23k band knife splitter and CXL still stretches some for me... I can't imagine a "pull-splitter". Make oversized pieces, split first, then cut your pockets.
  11. It's not what you take in it's what you get to keep.
  12. That is indeed a Fortuna UA, I've owned several over the years, but Randall Campbell isn't able to completely repair them anymore with out machining parts. I have one actually parked and covered in the back corner of the shop. I've recently bought a FAV from Campbell, and we use it constantly.
  13. Looks like Veg to me... corrected grain (in my experience) is usually either embossed, heavily finished to be very smooth or nubuck (fuzzy). Corrected means that it's been sanded down to remove imperfections so if it's "less" treated it's fuzzy like nubuck.
  14. We get our clicker blocks planed down at a wood shop every few months (10+ blocks every time.)