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About nstarleather

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Contemporary Leather goods
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    New techniques
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  1. I bought one that’s close (and matches the one on my other clicker... hope it works!
  2. That’s what I read, so basically when I activate the switch there should be a change in the reading as last by as I’m on Com and one of the other two. So if O has no change, I’m looking at a bad switch. I’ll redo the connection on all the wire if I have to, hopefully switching the switch will work.
  3. So the switch has 3 connections one is labeled C the other O (both red wires) and the third has no markings (it had the blue wire). When I removed all the wires and tested the switch I got a change when touching the unmarked one and on the "C" but no change when on the "O"...pictures of switch attached. The last possibility is something my dad has told me: he says that the clicker also was supposed to have some sort of safety feather that somehow will prevent it from triggering if you're hand were to be touching the underside of the head (aluminum). He's told me in the past tha if even a paperclip were to touch one of the bolts and the head, that it can keep the clicker from working. This "feature is kind of unnecessary as you need both hands to operate the machine. Along this line, when you open up the clicker head, there is what appears to be a small copper rod that passes through the head itself in what looks like a plastic "tunnel" to the surface of the head below. I'm guessing this rod has something to do with the safety feature.
  4. So I actually rechecked a micro switch and I think it might be it... So if I stick a multi meter measure resistance and put one end on the different inputs, there should be some change when I click the switch (on at least one of them). I'm no electric expert, but if nothing happens=bad switch?
  5. See the thing now is that it hasn't run for a week and nada.
  6. It's kinda what I thought at first but I've changed out most of the connections and they all seem good, I may check that they're connected well to the switches but. It also doesn't really explain it starting to work again after a break. Motor is running great. The machine starts up the wheel turns.
  7. I'll look around see if my dad has one somewhere. I'm coming up blank searching the net. It's a Model B.
  8. So folks I've got a USMC clicker that's got a problem and I'm hoping somebody here can help me troubleshoot a bit. My guess is that this is most likely an electrical issue and possibly something simple. The clicker has always started up and the motor runs. This machine has always had a weird quirk: It will just stop clicking more or less randomly. At first we thought it was loose wires in the head so I've switched out all the connections and both micro-switches have been replaced recently. When we first noticed this problem, we'd wiggle some wires or take part the head and that seemed to get it working, but we were never sure what had "fixed" the problem, however, over time, we realized that if we just left it alone for an half hour or so, it'd work when we started it up again. So the fix had nothing to do with moving wires. It did this very rarely so it wasn't a huge problem. Now to the recent problem, we have a split AC unit in the room with the clicker and one day it dripped water (another story entirely) into the sides of the clicker head water would collect in one of the spaces. I don't know if it's related or not, but when this happened the clicker usually wouldn't click. We'd shop-vac the water out and let it dry and the clicker would work again! This water thing happened again last week but even after days of drying, we haven't been able to make it click. I've replaced most of the connections inside the machine (both the head and circuit board), checked for loose wires and tested all the fuses. In the past my dad has said that metal on the clicker head or touching it can cause the clicker to not want to click. I'm not sure of why clickers do this and if it could be related. If it is maybe it's something to do with grounding and could be easily fixed. I'd be game to hear any advice someone could give!
  9. No worries, that stuff went fast.
  10. Nope the thick black is long gone. Just some lighter weight bright blue.
  11. Debunking “grades of leather”

    I do appreciate the input and I do know I could make the blog look a lot more "slick" if I had the time to do it. That's also why in the "call to action" at the end I encouraged people to use the content to do their own thing so that the message gets out there from more that just me. Since you're
  12. Debunking “grades of leather”

    It’s not about the products, it’s the outright falsehoods used to sell. Aside from their grades of leather what they say about edge finishing is complete nonsense: Light edges mean a leather hasn’t been completely tanned? Makers cover up cheap leather by finishing the edges? come on.... Littleton hasn’t done anything to confuse the public at large as far as I know.
  13. Debunking “grades of leather”

    Double posted delete this one
  14. Debunking “grades of leather”

    Thanks, I feel that trying to bust myths has to have a bit of an adversarial tone, especially if the myth was created and spread, not by ignorance, but with intentional malice. Honestly this was tame in comparison to what I’ve had others say about Saddleback when it’s brought up in Reddit threads.
  15. What snake is this hide?

    I don't work with it much so I don't really know...Probably?