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About nstarleather

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Contemporary Leather goods
  • Interested in learning about
    New techniques
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  1. This my full time gig for as long as I can remember...I went to my first show with my dad at 6 months. I feel blessed but it's still work!
  2. The crowns are sewn then turned, then attached to the brim, which has the wire already sewn in...I will say that basically every edge (especially the part that contains the wire), is skived substantially.
  3. I use wire- electric fence wire to be precise: http://www.nstarleather.com/optimizer/product/882w778D.html http://www.nstarleather.com/optimizer/product/882w778B.html http://www.nstarleather.com/optimizer/product/882.html
  4. We have one like that we actually had shipped from NYC it was bolted to rails like in the picture... the shipping wasn't cheap but well worth it considering what clickers cost. Heck we had a massive "double headed" Schwabe shipped to us- it makes that one look like a toy! We had a huge splitter shipped last year and it was around $500... from TX to SC. So if the OP is willing to tape the head in place, it's likely shippable anywhere. If I didn't already have a "spare" clicker that's the exact same model, I'd be asking about it...
  5. Good Point...at $10 per liter, I'm going to sample the Fenice...but I'm not sure I can use the colors they have.
  6. To each his own, we have a wholesale base that want cheap...if we had to edge nicely all 10 pieces that go into a bifold, it'd double the price. We couldn't have keep the business going since 1969 selling $50+ wallets... Hopefully somebody has used both and can tell...normally the stuff is like $25 per bottle whereas edge kote is more like $14...so I was hoping it'd be better.
  7. Hi Guys, We generally use edge kote just to paint the edges of our items, not so much for the rounded rubbery look but just to make them darker. We use a technique we call "gang dying" where we take a whole stack of a specific part, stick a piece of flat metal on both ends of the stack, press in a vice, and paint the edges all at once, wipe with a cloths, remove the stack, separate and wipe off any excess from the front of the parts... Its not the nice bevel/sand/burnish, that is done sometimes, but it's what we do at our price level and quick.... Anyway... we currently use Fiebing's edge Kote , but I've recently been offered the opportunity to buy a bunch of Fenice edge paint (Liters) at what will probably be a good discount. My understanding is that Fenice is "Premium" and probably better than edge Kote. My question is: Will it work for what I do (gang dying described above)? Or would it only work for the "one at a time" dying that usually gets done more often (we do it occasionally)? Please fill me in anyone who's used it. Also do I need the "Base" plus another color or will the base work by itself. Thanks
  8. Hey I'm most of the way done with the Kickstarter page for this. PM me anyone if you want to see the Preview link and give me feedback!
  9. Both Look like the top machine, one is a slightly different color than the other.
  10. So I got 2 Pfaff 1245's on the way. Not brand new, these will be German ones but in good working order. Any key differences between these and the 545's I'm used to? Thanks
  11. I buy hundreds of pounds of upholstery scrap and sometimes hides. Most of my small items are made from upholstery leather. This kind of leather won't come from tanneries you've heard of like Horween or SB foot or any of the Famous European tanneries. The tanneries who do upholstery are kind of an "inside" industry because they don't need publicity because their clients are the furniture makers not the final consumer. That being said, upholstery is great leather for bags and pouches or garments (if that's your thing). It's usually a top grain leather with some sort of embossing for consistency, though sometimes it can be a pullup leather or something more smooth. Always larger hides and most of the time from Europe, but sometimes South America. You can google the names on the stamps you found and you should find that the leather is relatively expensive. It's also very durable because it has to be due to the fact that most people keep leather furniture years and years. At less than $1 per foot you got a pretty good buy.
  12. I would think with a bow you want all the grain longwise because how the force goes. Wood can split super easy along the grain, I've split a lot of firewood in my life. I would think with a bow you want all the grain longwise because how the force goes. Wood can split super easy along the grain, I've split a lot of firewood in my life.
  13. Plywood and OSB orient the grain of the wood to cross and create the strength. If you were to create a laminate using the grain parallel as opposed to perpendicular, you wouldn't get the same strength. Leather grain isn't the same thing.
  14. Isn't that amazing? Suede, stronger than leather TIL...
  15. Feeling better after the last few comments....