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Found 68 results

  1. Hi guys and girls I recently came into possession of this vintage sawing machine. It seems to be turning well but I have no idea how to thread the machine and what needs to be done to make it work, without cousing damage to it. Do I have to oil it before use? Any info would be highly appreciated. Thank you. Mark from Prague
  2. Does the Adler 69 have a safety clutch? In the service manual (page 24) it says to check the safety clutch. But it does not state how to do this or where it is. The closest I can find is in the Adler 169 manual. The Adler 167 video/documents did not help. I'm just curious if it has one. And IF it engages, how to disengage it. Thanks!
  3. We finally bought a sewing machine! Thanks for all those who have answered my previous questions. Now the fun part, learning how to use it We bought it from a lady who makes purses and wanted more room (she has a Pfaff 1245 and Adler 269-373). We paid 430 Euro ($500) with Jack servo and flat table attachment. She used it with thick threads and the stitches look good. She also gave me the number of her mechanic so he can come adjust it for us. It worked great when I tested it but I am already running into problems...to be expected since this is our first sewing machine. Can anyone tell me if this is a 69-373? The model plate is gone. It seems the the top right tension spring is missing and the tension release is not working. I am trying to get a list of parts to order. If anyone sees some parts missing or set up wrong please let me know, I would appreciate it! I also have some very basic questions, should I post questions here or start a new topic? Thanks!
  4. Hi there. I came across this website searching for information on Adler sewing machines. I don't have any experience with industrial type sewing machines, but I am looking to purchase my first one. I have two Adler 267 gk373's about 20 miles away from me that I am interested in for the walking foot feature. I have read that parts and things are more expensive and harder to come by. With this in mind the price for each is only $900. From what I see that is a decent price for an Adler. The owner says that he purchased them a year ago from a factory that was closing down where they were used every day. They don't know much about the machine and said one seems to run fine and thinks the others timing is off because the needle won't grab the thread from the bobbin. I have googled some of Uwe Ross' videos explaining how to fix two of the possible problems and it seems fairly simple. While the sewing machines are the same model they look slightly different. The logo is different and the tack on one of the machines looks homemade or something because the edges are so jagged. Could you guys take a look at the pictures attached and tell me what you think? I'm supposed to go look at them today, but I would like to know which machine I should go for to get a good deal considering everything. Any information you could tell me about what the different serial numbers and tacks mean is very appreciated. I want to be semi ready to negotiate a price. Any haggling advice is appreciated as well. Thank you so much for your time.
  5. Hi there. I just recently acquired this Adler 5 A 25 and have not been able to find any information on it anywhere. If anyone knows where I can get a suitable foot for sewing holsters, knife sheaths as well as perhaps an edge guide. The plate has been fixed previously as you can see in the pictures so I may also need a new/used plate. I have not been able to find a parts list or operating guide for this model and have no idea how old it is. Thanks in advance everyone. CeeCee
  6. Hi there. I just recently acquired this Adler 5 A 25 and have not been able to find any information on it anywhere. If anyone knows where I can get a suitable foot for sewing holsters, knife sheaths as well as perhaps an edge guide. The plate has been fixed previously as you can see in the pictures so I may also need a new/used plate. I have not been able to find a parts list or operating guide for this model and have no idea how old it is. Thanks in advance everyone. CeeCee
  7. Hello, I posted a while ago about the difference between an Adler 69 and 269. Thank you for the help! The 269 machine did not work out. The only one I can find is just too expensive for me. I read everything I could find about the Adler 69. I think this would be a good machine for me to start on. I have read and heard conflicting opinions about what size thread this machine can use. What is the maximum thread size I can use in an Adler 69-373? What about in the bobbin? These machines are easy to find where I am (Romania). Plus parts are easily obtained. The mechanic I talked to said he has it set up for size M20 (#138 thread). I thought it was only able to handle M30 (#96)? I need a machine for bags, wallets etc. Total thickness of 4-5mm (10-12oz). Thank you for your help with such a simple question! -Adam
  8. Chandler 220, 3 Phase, Industrial Sewing Machine with Walking Foot, Landis Type Foot for Close Edge Work, can sew up to 3/4" in thickness, uses up to 6 cord linen thread, Self Adjusting Walking Foot that Steps Easily Over Seams and Edges. Complete control 0 to 350 stitches per minute. Powerful Clutch Motor Drive. Includes everything as shown. $1200. Pickup only in Hudson, Massachusetts Serious inquiries can email me: LeftyMonk@aol.com
  9. Hello, I am looking at buying a used sewing machine. I have NO experience with sewing machines We make slim card wallets, bifold wallets, clutches (with gussets), small bags etc. Normally we are using a total thickness between 2-6mm (very rarely above that!). Thread Serafil #20 or tex 138 (532 for hand sewing). I am getting tired of sewing by hand. I would like the ability to use up to 138 thread in the bottom bobbin. I have the chance to buy a used Adler 269 for a very low price. (less than $500). The seller "says" it works great. I would be able to test it as it is only a few hours from me. I would have to buy a servo motor for it etc. What do you think? It has the old Efka variostop motor (380V). Would I be better of with a Adler 69?.They are very common here. I can get a one from a used dealer (they look good) for around $500. They also have a nice Pfaff 335 and Juki 245. Thanks! -Adam
  10. 3 INDUSTRIAL SEWING Machines plus 2 Singer Patching Machines for Parts. Must Pick up and move Former Leather Shop Closed. Priced to Sell ADLER INDUSTRIAL Model 69 Cylinder Sewing machine Includes HEAD, TABLE, MOTOR. Complete in working order needs some cleaning. $1200 SINGER INDUSTRIAL MODEL 153W5V19 Cylinder Sewing Machine Includes HEAD, TABLE, MOTOR. Complete in working order needs some cleaning. $800 CONSEW INDUSTRIAL Model 105 Straight Table Sewing Machine. Includes HEAD, TABLE MOTOR. Complete in working order needs some cleaning. $1200 All machines for $1500 or make best offer.
  11. Adler 68

    So i "found" an adler 68. doesnot need it really but it would fit in one of my adler tables and its nice to try to get it working after some cleaning it turns light, the timing seems to be alright too. some parts of the hook assembly are missing but that is the same as the adler 67 so i will be able to buy one (new or used) the cap wich protects the hook is more a challenge...(part 068 00 473 0) i will have to make one myself unless someone has an "parts machine" and is willing to sell that part. annyone ? I live in europe but have realatives is the usa so have an postadres in the states too. its an adler 68 2S U2 the cap is "shorter than the one wich is from the 68 2s ... i am aware its a wild guess but who knows.... regards, michiel
  12. Wanted to buy: Adler 30-7 or 30-5

    Wanted to buy: Adler 30-5 or 30-7 long arm patching machine.....with or without treadle stand. Doesn't have to be pretty, but does need to function correctly. Thanks
  13. Adler 166 for sale

    Adler 166 for sale. verry hard to find sewing machine for medium to heavy materials with 9 mm zigzag. tried to find one for years and finaly ended with two. selling the newest one which is serviced by a dealer in januari and in good working order. asking price 1800,- sewing machine is in amsterdam netherlands please sent me a pm for more photo's regards, michiel
  14. Hello! Any suggestion on European sites where i can find spare parts for Adler machines. Not just presser foot and bobbins! i am looking for this one!
  15. Ok guys, i learned a lott by reading threads on this forum (and from service and part manuals) but now i have a mystery (to me ). i realise i have a rare sewing machine but maybe the old iron lovers on this forum have an opinion its an old adler 166 heavy zigzag machine. I bought it as an "project machine" but after cleaning and oiling its sews well and seams in a good condition for its age. It is stitching well and all the adjustments seems ok but one...: the needle is not in the middle off the needle hole but almost touching the backside of it. i only have an manuall for the adler 366. On that machine you can adjust the needlebar wirh an excentric bearing. I looked verry well but cannnot find one in this machine. Ther is one excentric bearing in the zigzag feed, but that one is for zigzag with adjustment. i examined the two bearings of the neeldebar but there is not a bearing i can reach without dismanteling i big part of the machine. the bearing on the part which moves sideways wen zigzag sewing (donot know how it is called) you van see on the left underside. it has twoo screes in stead of one so i thought maybe it was excentric. I succeed to turn it but it was not. So here is my questio: is it possible the needlebar of these old machines can not be adjusted (horizontal) after leaving factory? the needle plate cannot be shifted (as it is now) but i can aletr it to move a little backward. The needleplate is not worn, so the old sailmaker (i cannot ask) had a way to work around. my theory is that he bend his needles after installing them. i did this finaly and with the bend needle the distance between the hook en needle looks good (and it sews well) the other option is the machine changed in the years between h stopped sewing and the moment i bought it but that doesnot make sence to me (when cleaning and oiling i did not get the machine apart or changed other adjustments.) I will try to post more pictures but i cannot downsize them on my ipad and am alowed to upload only 1,4 mb hope for some opinions, regards, michiel
  16. Hello all, Brand new member here! So, I have quit my job and deciding to change my hobby into something more. I am looking to create bags and accessories, in some cases using old sofa/upholstery leather and fabrics. I have been hacking things together on my old Bernina 1130, she is a strong domestic, but it is time to go industrial. After much (much!) research, I am down to two models- an old German made Durkopp Adler 69-373 cylinder arm, or a local brand that I think comes under the Chinese 'clone' umbrella. The brand is called 'Wimsew' and are here in south/west London. It is £400 more for the Adler, and it is pretty battered, but I have found a lot of positive reviews online about it (here and elsewhere). I can barely find any info or reviews on any of the Wimsew models, which makes me nervous. They say it is just as good, and it is new, but with such a big investment (between £1200 to £1600) I want it to be really right. I talked to another dealer on the phone who was very quick to recommend an Adler 669 or Pfaff 335, but they are more like £2000-£3000, which feels a bit steep and I *think* the 373 does everything I need it to really. I don't know what these two would do more to justify the price. So far the thickest leather i have sewn has been four layers coming to 6.59 mm, but if I wanted to add piping I guess that might go up to 8.5mm or so. So, I just wondered if anyone had any advice, or any experience of these particular models or brands? I think I am going to make the decision this week, I have a load of leather cut out and ready to be made into bags that I am stalling on until i am totally happy that I will have near indestructible seams! Any advice, help or guidance much appreciated. Gavin.
  17. Hi everyone, I was hoping to gain some knowledge from some of the Adler experts out there. I’ve got an Adler 067 GK-373 and I’m having trouble with the thread tension. The trouble is not that my knots come up through the top all the time or the bottom all the time, but rather, even after dialling in the correct tension on a scrap piece from the same leather/project I am about to sew, I still get intermittent knots on the top and on the bottom (in the same run). They only show up every few inches and it seems to be worse when I am graduating from one thickness of leather to another (eg. wallet pocket layers), but they show up on straight stitching single thickness pieces too. I’ve scoured these (super helpful) forums and internet at large but nothing has worked. Things I’ve tried: - changing thread - following the thread path through the machine to make sure machine is threaded properly - watched the machine as it was sewing to make sure there are no snags anywhere - ensured that the thread cone is letting the thread off without snags - changing feet - holding thread back at beginning of stitch run - making sure I’m not accidentally touching knee lift at the wrong time - brand new bobbins - ensuring that bobbins are wound properly (as per manual and not to one side) - increasing bobbin tension and decreasing top tension - decreasing bobbin tension and increasing top tension - changing needle (in relation to thread size both up and down) - machine timing (as per Use Grosse super helpful videos on youtube) - I have throughly read the english translation of the mechanics guide for the machine and configured it exactly as the manual has suggested (eg. check all screw seats, needle entry, hook adjustment, needle guard, needle bar height, presser bar timing and height, feed dog timing and height, needle feed, top feed, foot lift height, check spring etc). - not lifting presser foot any higher than needed to release the fabric on turns - proper oil and consistent oiling The only thing I feel I have not tried is adjusting the bobbin case lifter but it doesn’t seem to be off as per the manual suggests. Below are two photos of the same piece/same run with problems on both the top and the bottom. I’m going nuts over this and it is slowing down my small batches tremendously. Any help would be sooo very much appreciated!
  18. Hi everyone, Just a heads up for anyone looking for a walking foot industrial machine. I found a listing on Kijiji (Canada), and traveled there to pick up one of the 22 (twenty two) industrial machines that the company is selling. The price that they are asking is $200 cdn. Note: I have NO financial interest in these transactions. I'm posting the information as a potential connection for the members of these forums (who have given me much good and valuable information). So, here's the scoop: The machines are mostly Durkopp 291 walking foot units (there were also two Pfaff units there) They are 3 phase machines running at 220v (60 cycles). They require a pneumatic line to operate the foot lift, and some other functions. There are no manuals. The operators of these machines are no longer at the factory.... There is no plug on the end of the cord (snipped off, probably were hard wired into the plant's electrical system). According to Naresh (the manager who was my contact, these were all in running condition when removed from service). One of the machines I looked at was missing the bobbin top (and parts for these are EXPENSIVE!) Inspect carefully for any missing bits! I've gotten the one I purchased home and am cleaning it up and getting her going again. I'm currently waiting on a rotary phase converter ($300 US, with shipping). A harbor you know who cheapo compressor will provide air (I hope). Other pieces I've ordered: bobbins (they used preloaded bobbins), and a selection of needles. If you are interested in the machines, call or text Naresh : +1 (647) 459-0110, tell him that Marty gave you his contact info. The machines are located at: Dynasty Furniture Manufacturing, Ltd. 6830 Columbus Rd, Mississauga, ON L5T 2G1, Canada Other notes: If crossing from the US like I did, DON'T use the "Rainbow Bridge". The border guard was VERY grumpy about me using that crossing for a business related trip. He gave me a warning and said I could be fined. Nice welcome back to the US of A! The third pic is of the machine I bought, after some cleaning. Anyone who knows anything about the control modules, please let me know. Have not found anything online about those yet. The module I have says "Durkopp v720" on the front, and "Dz101" on the back. Will post this question in a more appropriate forum eventually.
  19. Looking for opinions regarding a new patch machine. Our shop uses Singer 29U171A and Adler 30-1 . Motorized and sewing as constantly as we can keep them in shape. Have rebuilt and replaced most parts several times and will do so for as long as we can. Just looking for information regarding new patch machines in case we need to grab one quickly as a backup. The only one that claims made in Taiwan so far it the Econosew. I believe, and correct me please if I'm wrong, Cowboy, Consew, Techsew, Saito, Japsew, Sewline, Ankai are all Chinese made? Is that necessarily bad and is one brand above the others? If anyone wants to sell a Pfaff 8346, we'll give that a go also. Thank you in advance for any advice offered. Very best regards, Sam
  20. Hello all. I am looking for an older, affordable, walking foot machine capable of doing wallets, bags, belts, and the like. Something along the lines of a consew RB-1; pfaff 145; pfaff 545. I'm located in the Chicagoland area but doing mind traveling a bit to pick something up. Please let me know if you have, or come across, anything that you think might work for me. Thank you.
  21. Durkopp Adler 269-373

    Selling a used Durkopp Adler 269-373. Comes with binder attachment and new servo motor and speed reducer installed. I’ve had this machine for a few years, but haven’t really been able to use it as I would like. Bob from Toledo Sewing serviced it last summer, but it has been mostly sitting idle since. Asking $1000, would need to pick up from Columbus, OH
  22. Adler 104-64

    Does anyone have a manual for a Adler 104-64 have had no luck finding one.
  23. Hi all! New to this forum, and leatherwork too, but it seems to be an amazing wealth of information! I've dove in headfirst and bought some equipment, namely an Adler 30-10. I was aware of the price of spare parts before I bought it, but it didn't seem to be needing too many at the time of purchase (at least to a newbie), and the action felt tight, and turned smoothly. No play in the presser foot and needle went up and down smoothly as well. And seeing as how these never come up for sale in my neck of the woods I figured why not. I'm decently mechanically inclined so I figure I can handle most operations aside from machining new parts! So after a thorough cleaning of the exterior and getting to know the various parts I have a few questions that hopefully you guys have answers to: 1. The only way to transport this thing was on its side. Probably not the greatest idea in hindsight but that's how we did it. About a tablespoon or two of a yellowish oil leaked out of the cover plate on the rear. I'm not aware of a reservoir on this beast, so is it alarming to see this happen in such great quantity? When the time comes to lube it up again, what is the best stuff to use, and how liberally should it be applied? 2. I haven't tried to sew yet, but just inspecting the action of the shuttle/carrier. The carrier itself has play to it. Swings back and forth about 1/8" maybe 3/16". Also the shuttle itself is a Singer replacement but it doesn't exactly fit too tight in the carrier. Should I be concerned with this amount of slack? Is there any way to tighten the carrier up? Timing it will be a whole 'nother issue but is there anything to look for that signals "part replacement"? There isn't any visible grooving of the race/wear on the carrier. I suppose sewing with it is the only way to truly know? 3. Which Singer parts can be used to replace parts on a 30-10? I'm sure I'll have many more questions as I get a few levels deeper into this, but these are the first. Thanks in advance! Stoked to get this thing running its best! Cam
  24. Nearly new! Full automatic Durkopp-Adler 281 industrial sewing machine. Semi-dry direct drive machine, single needle.- Automatic thread cutter- Auto foot lift- Auto back stitching- Bobbin counter- Built-in bobbin winder- Semi-dry head- Direct drive (no motor attached to table)- 120VComes with the machine head, table, bobbins, thread stand, and more. Complete, and ready to sew.I used this machine to sew sample jackets for a couple months. Perfect for all fabrics, denim, garment-weight leather, and more. Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dhz5w7gczdvbq4h/AACn2fr9D8QyCxzuTWEL3Buaa?dl=0 Local Pickup in Central New Jersey. Looking for $850 or BO.
  25. I have various leather sewing machines for sale. Some are in working condition, some are for parts. Make me an offer for the entire lot!Pfaff 345-H3-6C, cylinder arm, walking foot, needs timing, head only2x- Pfaff 1445, walking foot (1 is working, 1 is for parts), head onlyJuki 563- needs many parts, head only2x- Pfaff 138-6/21-BS, (1 is working, 1 is for parts), head onlyPfaff 438, zig-zag, needle positioner, head only5x- Singer 31-15, some for parts only2x- Singer 241-122x- Large kick pressesStimpson kick press for rivetsMake an offer for everything! Machines are available for pickup in Central New Jersey. Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ws09535yjch2em1/AABNoLebdxyM3RaaKlYn3ROja?dl=0