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Found 60 results

  1. Hello, I am looking at buying a used sewing machine. I have NO experience with sewing machines We make slim card wallets, bifold wallets, clutches (with gussets), small bags etc. Normally we are using a total thickness between 2-6mm (very rarely above that!). Thread Serafil #20 or tex 138 (532 for hand sewing). I am getting tired of sewing by hand. I would like the ability to use up to 138 thread in the bottom bobbin. I have the chance to buy a used Adler 269 for a very low price. (less than $500). The seller "says" it works great. I would be able to test it as it is only a few hours from me. I would have to buy a servo motor for it etc. What do you think? It has the old Efka variostop motor (380V). Would I be better of with a Adler 69?.They are very common here. I can get a one from a used dealer (they look good) for around $500. They also have a nice Pfaff 335 and Juki 245. Thanks! -Adam
  2. 3 INDUSTRIAL SEWING Machines plus 2 Singer Patching Machines for Parts. Must Pick up and move Former Leather Shop Closed. Priced to Sell ADLER INDUSTRIAL Model 69 Cylinder Sewing machine Includes HEAD, TABLE, MOTOR. Complete in working order needs some cleaning. $1200 SINGER INDUSTRIAL MODEL 153W5V19 Cylinder Sewing Machine Includes HEAD, TABLE, MOTOR. Complete in working order needs some cleaning. $800 CONSEW INDUSTRIAL Model 105 Straight Table Sewing Machine. Includes HEAD, TABLE MOTOR. Complete in working order needs some cleaning. $1200 All machines for $1500 or make best offer.
  3. Adler 68

    So i "found" an adler 68. doesnot need it really but it would fit in one of my adler tables and its nice to try to get it working after some cleaning it turns light, the timing seems to be alright too. some parts of the hook assembly are missing but that is the same as the adler 67 so i will be able to buy one (new or used) the cap wich protects the hook is more a challenge...(part 068 00 473 0) i will have to make one myself unless someone has an "parts machine" and is willing to sell that part. annyone ? I live in europe but have realatives is the usa so have an postadres in the states too. its an adler 68 2S U2 the cap is "shorter than the one wich is from the 68 2s ... i am aware its a wild guess but who knows.... regards, michiel
  4. Wanted to buy: Adler 30-7 or 30-5

    Wanted to buy: Adler 30-5 or 30-7 long arm patching machine.....with or without treadle stand. Doesn't have to be pretty, but does need to function correctly. Thanks
  5. Adler 166 for sale

    Adler 166 for sale. verry hard to find sewing machine for medium to heavy materials with 9 mm zigzag. tried to find one for years and finaly ended with two. selling the newest one which is serviced by a dealer in januari and in good working order. asking price 1800,- sewing machine is in amsterdam netherlands please sent me a pm for more photo's regards, michiel
  6. Hello! Any suggestion on European sites where i can find spare parts for Adler machines. Not just presser foot and bobbins! i am looking for this one!
  7. Ok guys, i learned a lott by reading threads on this forum (and from service and part manuals) but now i have a mystery (to me ). i realise i have a rare sewing machine but maybe the old iron lovers on this forum have an opinion its an old adler 166 heavy zigzag machine. I bought it as an "project machine" but after cleaning and oiling its sews well and seams in a good condition for its age. It is stitching well and all the adjustments seems ok but one...: the needle is not in the middle off the needle hole but almost touching the backside of it. i only have an manuall for the adler 366. On that machine you can adjust the needlebar wirh an excentric bearing. I looked verry well but cannnot find one in this machine. Ther is one excentric bearing in the zigzag feed, but that one is for zigzag with adjustment. i examined the two bearings of the neeldebar but there is not a bearing i can reach without dismanteling i big part of the machine. the bearing on the part which moves sideways wen zigzag sewing (donot know how it is called) you van see on the left underside. it has twoo screes in stead of one so i thought maybe it was excentric. I succeed to turn it but it was not. So here is my questio: is it possible the needlebar of these old machines can not be adjusted (horizontal) after leaving factory? the needle plate cannot be shifted (as it is now) but i can aletr it to move a little backward. The needleplate is not worn, so the old sailmaker (i cannot ask) had a way to work around. my theory is that he bend his needles after installing them. i did this finaly and with the bend needle the distance between the hook en needle looks good (and it sews well) the other option is the machine changed in the years between h stopped sewing and the moment i bought it but that doesnot make sence to me (when cleaning and oiling i did not get the machine apart or changed other adjustments.) I will try to post more pictures but i cannot downsize them on my ipad and am alowed to upload only 1,4 mb hope for some opinions, regards, michiel
  8. Hello all, Brand new member here! So, I have quit my job and deciding to change my hobby into something more. I am looking to create bags and accessories, in some cases using old sofa/upholstery leather and fabrics. I have been hacking things together on my old Bernina 1130, she is a strong domestic, but it is time to go industrial. After much (much!) research, I am down to two models- an old German made Durkopp Adler 69-373 cylinder arm, or a local brand that I think comes under the Chinese 'clone' umbrella. The brand is called 'Wimsew' and are here in south/west London. It is £400 more for the Adler, and it is pretty battered, but I have found a lot of positive reviews online about it (here and elsewhere). I can barely find any info or reviews on any of the Wimsew models, which makes me nervous. They say it is just as good, and it is new, but with such a big investment (between £1200 to £1600) I want it to be really right. I talked to another dealer on the phone who was very quick to recommend an Adler 669 or Pfaff 335, but they are more like £2000-£3000, which feels a bit steep and I *think* the 373 does everything I need it to really. I don't know what these two would do more to justify the price. So far the thickest leather i have sewn has been four layers coming to 6.59 mm, but if I wanted to add piping I guess that might go up to 8.5mm or so. So, I just wondered if anyone had any advice, or any experience of these particular models or brands? I think I am going to make the decision this week, I have a load of leather cut out and ready to be made into bags that I am stalling on until i am totally happy that I will have near indestructible seams! Any advice, help or guidance much appreciated. Gavin.
  9. Hi everyone, I was hoping to gain some knowledge from some of the Adler experts out there. I’ve got an Adler 067 GK-373 and I’m having trouble with the thread tension. The trouble is not that my knots come up through the top all the time or the bottom all the time, but rather, even after dialling in the correct tension on a scrap piece from the same leather/project I am about to sew, I still get intermittent knots on the top and on the bottom (in the same run). They only show up every few inches and it seems to be worse when I am graduating from one thickness of leather to another (eg. wallet pocket layers), but they show up on straight stitching single thickness pieces too. I’ve scoured these (super helpful) forums and internet at large but nothing has worked. Things I’ve tried: - changing thread - following the thread path through the machine to make sure machine is threaded properly - watched the machine as it was sewing to make sure there are no snags anywhere - ensured that the thread cone is letting the thread off without snags - changing feet - holding thread back at beginning of stitch run - making sure I’m not accidentally touching knee lift at the wrong time - brand new bobbins - ensuring that bobbins are wound properly (as per manual and not to one side) - increasing bobbin tension and decreasing top tension - decreasing bobbin tension and increasing top tension - changing needle (in relation to thread size both up and down) - machine timing (as per Use Grosse super helpful videos on youtube) - I have throughly read the english translation of the mechanics guide for the machine and configured it exactly as the manual has suggested (eg. check all screw seats, needle entry, hook adjustment, needle guard, needle bar height, presser bar timing and height, feed dog timing and height, needle feed, top feed, foot lift height, check spring etc). - not lifting presser foot any higher than needed to release the fabric on turns - proper oil and consistent oiling The only thing I feel I have not tried is adjusting the bobbin case lifter but it doesn’t seem to be off as per the manual suggests. Below are two photos of the same piece/same run with problems on both the top and the bottom. I’m going nuts over this and it is slowing down my small batches tremendously. Any help would be sooo very much appreciated!
  10. Hi everyone, Just a heads up for anyone looking for a walking foot industrial machine. I found a listing on Kijiji (Canada), and traveled there to pick up one of the 22 (twenty two) industrial machines that the company is selling. The price that they are asking is $200 cdn. Note: I have NO financial interest in these transactions. I'm posting the information as a potential connection for the members of these forums (who have given me much good and valuable information). So, here's the scoop: The machines are mostly Durkopp 291 walking foot units (there were also two Pfaff units there) They are 3 phase machines running at 220v (60 cycles). They require a pneumatic line to operate the foot lift, and some other functions. There are no manuals. The operators of these machines are no longer at the factory.... There is no plug on the end of the cord (snipped off, probably were hard wired into the plant's electrical system). According to Naresh (the manager who was my contact, these were all in running condition when removed from service). One of the machines I looked at was missing the bobbin top (and parts for these are EXPENSIVE!) Inspect carefully for any missing bits! I've gotten the one I purchased home and am cleaning it up and getting her going again. I'm currently waiting on a rotary phase converter ($300 US, with shipping). A harbor you know who cheapo compressor will provide air (I hope). Other pieces I've ordered: bobbins (they used preloaded bobbins), and a selection of needles. If you are interested in the machines, call or text Naresh : +1 (647) 459-0110, tell him that Marty gave you his contact info. The machines are located at: Dynasty Furniture Manufacturing, Ltd. 6830 Columbus Rd, Mississauga, ON L5T 2G1, Canada Other notes: If crossing from the US like I did, DON'T use the "Rainbow Bridge". The border guard was VERY grumpy about me using that crossing for a business related trip. He gave me a warning and said I could be fined. Nice welcome back to the US of A! The third pic is of the machine I bought, after some cleaning. Anyone who knows anything about the control modules, please let me know. Have not found anything online about those yet. The module I have says "Durkopp v720" on the front, and "Dz101" on the back. Will post this question in a more appropriate forum eventually.
  11. Looking for opinions regarding a new patch machine. Our shop uses Singer 29U171A and Adler 30-1 . Motorized and sewing as constantly as we can keep them in shape. Have rebuilt and replaced most parts several times and will do so for as long as we can. Just looking for information regarding new patch machines in case we need to grab one quickly as a backup. The only one that claims made in Taiwan so far it the Econosew. I believe, and correct me please if I'm wrong, Cowboy, Consew, Techsew, Saito, Japsew, Sewline, Ankai are all Chinese made? Is that necessarily bad and is one brand above the others? If anyone wants to sell a Pfaff 8346, we'll give that a go also. Thank you in advance for any advice offered. Very best regards, Sam
  12. Hello all. I am looking for an older, affordable, walking foot machine capable of doing wallets, bags, belts, and the like. Something along the lines of a consew RB-1; pfaff 145; pfaff 545. I'm located in the Chicagoland area but doing mind traveling a bit to pick something up. Please let me know if you have, or come across, anything that you think might work for me. Thank you.
  13. Durkopp Adler 269-373

    Selling a used Durkopp Adler 269-373. Comes with binder attachment and new servo motor and speed reducer installed. I’ve had this machine for a few years, but haven’t really been able to use it as I would like. Bob from Toledo Sewing serviced it last summer, but it has been mostly sitting idle since. Asking $1000, would need to pick up from Columbus, OH
  14. Adler 104-64

    Does anyone have a manual for a Adler 104-64 have had no luck finding one.
  15. Hi all! New to this forum, and leatherwork too, but it seems to be an amazing wealth of information! I've dove in headfirst and bought some equipment, namely an Adler 30-10. I was aware of the price of spare parts before I bought it, but it didn't seem to be needing too many at the time of purchase (at least to a newbie), and the action felt tight, and turned smoothly. No play in the presser foot and needle went up and down smoothly as well. And seeing as how these never come up for sale in my neck of the woods I figured why not. I'm decently mechanically inclined so I figure I can handle most operations aside from machining new parts! So after a thorough cleaning of the exterior and getting to know the various parts I have a few questions that hopefully you guys have answers to: 1. The only way to transport this thing was on its side. Probably not the greatest idea in hindsight but that's how we did it. About a tablespoon or two of a yellowish oil leaked out of the cover plate on the rear. I'm not aware of a reservoir on this beast, so is it alarming to see this happen in such great quantity? When the time comes to lube it up again, what is the best stuff to use, and how liberally should it be applied? 2. I haven't tried to sew yet, but just inspecting the action of the shuttle/carrier. The carrier itself has play to it. Swings back and forth about 1/8" maybe 3/16". Also the shuttle itself is a Singer replacement but it doesn't exactly fit too tight in the carrier. Should I be concerned with this amount of slack? Is there any way to tighten the carrier up? Timing it will be a whole 'nother issue but is there anything to look for that signals "part replacement"? There isn't any visible grooving of the race/wear on the carrier. I suppose sewing with it is the only way to truly know? 3. Which Singer parts can be used to replace parts on a 30-10? I'm sure I'll have many more questions as I get a few levels deeper into this, but these are the first. Thanks in advance! Stoked to get this thing running its best! Cam
  16. Nearly new! Full automatic Durkopp-Adler 281 industrial sewing machine. Semi-dry direct drive machine, single needle.- Automatic thread cutter- Auto foot lift- Auto back stitching- Bobbin counter- Built-in bobbin winder- Semi-dry head- Direct drive (no motor attached to table)- 120VComes with the machine head, table, bobbins, thread stand, and more. Complete, and ready to sew.I used this machine to sew sample jackets for a couple months. Perfect for all fabrics, denim, garment-weight leather, and more. Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dhz5w7gczdvbq4h/AACn2fr9D8QyCxzuTWEL3Buaa?dl=0 Local Pickup in Central New Jersey. Looking for $850 or BO.
  17. I have various leather sewing machines for sale. Some are in working condition, some are for parts. Make me an offer for the entire lot!Pfaff 345-H3-6C, cylinder arm, walking foot, needs timing, head only2x- Pfaff 1445, walking foot (1 is working, 1 is for parts), head onlyJuki 563- needs many parts, head only2x- Pfaff 138-6/21-BS, (1 is working, 1 is for parts), head onlyPfaff 438, zig-zag, needle positioner, head only5x- Singer 31-15, some for parts only2x- Singer 241-122x- Large kick pressesStimpson kick press for rivetsMake an offer for everything! Machines are available for pickup in Central New Jersey. Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ws09535yjch2em1/AABNoLebdxyM3RaaKlYn3ROja?dl=0
  18. Adler 30-7

    I closed up my orthotic business this year. One of my favorite and most reliable machines is for sale. It is an Adler 30-7. Please contact me if you have any questions. I feel the price is a great deal when I have checked others that are for sale. Just want to get out what I bought it for. My email is Mibracedude@gmail.com Price is $1,500.00
  19. My friend purchased this machine for me hoping to help me with some of the thicker equine leathers, which it does work beautifully for. However, he did not realize that it needs a pneumatic air hookup, which I do not have. So, regretfully, I am selling this brand new machine that has never been used. Retails for $12,650. Complete description below. I prefer local buyers for pick up only as this is a beheamoth of a machine (approx. 500lbs) or buyer to arrange shipping/pickup. Location: Newburgh, NY. Adler 969 ECO Cylinder Arm Sewing Machine, Complete with Stand: Precision German engineering, high tech features and heavy-duty sewing capabilities make this a must-have machine for anyone with extreme sewing needs Sews thicker materials including leather, nylon webbing, plastic coated webbing, rubber, synthetic material, and canvas as well as accommodates thicker thread sizes Great for the extreme needs of production with excellent performance in stitch length, foot stroke and sewing speed Consistently tight stitches, even when sewing with extremely thick thread up to size 415 Large clearance (16-1/2" wide and 8-3/4" high) for easy handling of large workpieces Electropneumatic sewing foot lift is standard Accommodates two different needle systems (794S and 1000) Boasts a myriad of features including needle positioning, automatic foot life, automatic back tack and two-function keypad with ergonomically-arranged favorite key Adjust speed up and down with a quick push of a button Features an extra-long 16-1/2" arm for lots of sewing room Integrated direct drive motor Features a 70% larger bobbin size than the Adler 205 for longer sewing cycles and more productivity An independent integrated bobbin winder will operate when running machine Jog dial offers electronic needle positioning for added sewing control when needed Specs: Instruction Manual Included Stitch Length: 1/2" Sewing Speed: 1,000 stitches/minute Sewing Foot Lift: 1-3/16" Wgt: 464lbs
  20. Adler 167-GK373 $1200

    I'm selling my Adler 167-GK373 Asking $1200 Great working condition. Only reason I selling is to upgrade to something that will sew thicker materials with heavier threads Brand new Reliable 6000SM Servo Motor Table is solid wood I live in Bryan TX. If interested contact me and we can discuss shipping options.
  21. As my new "monster" Adler 205/370, will be sewing thicker and larger items, I have bought an Adler 169/373 for thinner leather and material work. I spent most of the day trying to work out why the feed dog did not rise and fall as it should. Turns out that my machine was originally set up for binding, so the feed dog only moves back and forth.Thanks to a nice gentleman on the other end of the phone at Durkopp Adler for that info. To replace all the parts to make the feed dog rise and fall is going to cost several hundred pounds,(unless someone here has these items available used??) so my question is-what are people's opinions on what if any problems am I going to come across, or things that will be difficult to do, if I leave the feed dog as it is?
  22. ADLER 105/64 PLUS EXTRAS FOR SALE

    As I have now got my dream machine, an Adler 205/370, my Adler 105/64 is surplus to requirements. I am selling the head only for a couple of reasons- one is transport cost, the other is I have a use for the table. It is in good working order- I have used it on occasion in the past 6 years I have owned it, mostly to put holes in things that need hand stitching! I spent most of today checking it over and setting it up.It will sew through 8mm of leather comfortably .Raised presser foot height is back to the standard of 12mm. There are a number of different presser feet, as shown in the photos.The hinged Simanco foot helps with changing leather thicknesses. The needles are mostly 180 and 160 sizes,one in 130. Very few have been used. There are some Groz Beckert ones in the plastic bag, size 200. The roller foot is a standard Chinese one that I started modifying to fit. Price- offers around £500.00 Transport cost is going to be approx. £85.00 within Europe. PM me anyone that is interested.
  23. We bought a second hand 205-370 last Autumn and it's been more than a bit of a hassle getting some parts, needles, etc. for it here in the UK. They're truly quite a rare beast here. With some other work getting in the way before we put "The Beast" to full occupation it's not been until the last few weeks we've been using it regularly . . and we've hit numerous issues . . but the one that has us stumped is that it cannot use the "794 system" needles! WTF!!! That is the chosen, recommended size - indeed only size we think - for this machine. We didn't pay much attention to the needles the machine came with at first, the machine was fitted with a fat one used to produce the grey upholstery hide sample it arrived with and the opened and unopened packets of needles in it's drawer were round point for clothing only. We believe the previous owners used the 205 for work of a lighter nature than what it is capable of and what we bought it for, we need to use the 205 for heavy harness leather work, this machine is only one of two worldwide that it the ultimate for this work and we do know it's strength means it'll still sew when others will grind to a halt. So any issue with needles is worrying. To that end we purchased various points of new needles of the correct size for the 205, this machine uses the 794 range, no other "system" is recommended. We then also sourced the correct, heavier "button twist" type of thread that is OK for the 205 and we need for heavy leather-work. We fitted our first needle and set up the machine to sew only to find that the first needle broke almost immediately, another fitted showed instantly that it's diamond point was burred over. We checked that we were fitting the needles correctly - we were - and our timing, etc. was spot on. It is then we looked in more depth at the needles the 205 came with. They were a completely different system. The one fitted for the leather sample was a Singer 250/27 whilst the packets in the drawer were Schmetz "System 7x23", they were all size 180/24. These are all too small, technically, the 205 was showing it's great aptitude to be tolerant we think. Popping open the cover at the end of the cylinder arm we fitted a new needle and moved it slowly by hand. The needle, a GB 200 leather point, was TOO LONG and it's point was first glancing off the bobbin shuttle and then colliding with the swing hinge for that part. So we fitted one of the 180/24 needles and that cleared all obstructions. So now we know why this 205 came with the wrong sizes of needles. But the 205 is designed to use ONLY a 794 "system" needle. The pair of us took time out one day to fully go through the 205's whole needle and shuttle/hook assembly carefully taking notes and photo's and we hope eventually got some answers. A few of these photo's are attached beneath our text, "A" shows that we're missing the two ring spacers and that the inner ring is simply pushed too far forward . . by it's four springs maybe? "B" shows the needle size that came with the machine passing the bobbin shuttle whilst "C" shows the "794" hitting the same part. "D" shows the two needle sizes side by side and a better view of the "794" hitting the side of the bobbin shuttles hinge . . the inevitable happens each time. This is where we think this 205 is "going wrong". The Machine's bobbin housing sits too far forward and is not spring loaded as it should be, this is totally proven by some of Uwe's video. The grub screw in the side of the cylinder arm which locks the mechanism is not performing as it should it almost misses the inner ring completely when it's required to hold that assembly - so the bobbin housing may be in the wrong place. Incidentally the one shown in our pix is a temporary machine screw replacement to help it work . . the fitted grub screw has a chamfered point. There are also two spring spacers missing and the four small springs behind the hook assembly may also be wrong too. Whilst the needle/hook will collect the bobbin thread the correct needle collides with the bobbin case and, when the smaller incorrectly sized needles that came with the 205 are used, whilst these needles don't hit anything they do drop lower stitches from time to time. Needle too short? This may also be why the two needle protection spacers originally fitted are far too big at the pair totalling 3.60 mm, they don't as such effect sewing but they do an important role in sewing heavy work. They prevent the needle breaking under deflection by weight, so this 205 has the maximum spacing . . was this to try and solve the mechanical issues breaking needles? We would VERY much appreciate ANY input to solving our issue from fellow forum members . . thank you.
  24. I've been working with an older Adler 69 machine to do some low-volume sewing of small leather goods out if medium-weight leathers. I purchased the machine locally about two years ago for about $2250 all in with tax and local delivery, etc. So far I've been less than satisfied with it. Here's a summary of the various issues I've had (you can assume that I've tried all all of the self-help I could think of such as needle sizes/types, different leathers, adhesives, threads, threading, cleaning, oil, etc.) : - Thread shredding: needle thread is shedding as I sew. It gets worse the longer I sew without stopping. In the worst cases it breaks. I've tried replacing the thread with high-end, brand-new #69 and it still does it. That last mechanic that I had take a look could not figure it out. - Bobbin thread tangles sometimes when starting or stopping stitching. - Stitch quality is inconsistent. Sometimes I get nice stitches (usually after I've been visited by a mechanic), sometimes the tension seems to waver causing needle thread loops to stand out on the bottom side (this is a more recent problem that I haven't been able to resolve on my own). - When I insert the bobbin into the bobbin case and pull on the thread, the bobbin thread seems to have inconsistent tension, sticking and releasing. I can't see or feel any burrs or debris. No mechanic has mentioned this before. I don't know when it started. - When it is actually sewing well, it doesn't handle sewing over transitions of material thickness very well. This has been the case from day 1, as I mentioned it to the sales guy in the showroom before taking it home. We thought it was a needle problem at the time. It will often skip a stitch or change stitch length when going over a particularly aggressive seam. This was surprising to me, as I've seen videos of less-expensive machines handling variations in thickness very well. - Deep scratches have appeared on my aluminum bobbins, looking as if they have been marred by a needle. This might be more recent. ---------------- And then are some things about the design of the machine that just sort of bother me: - Would be great to have a larger bobbin - I would love to have the presser foot operate by a knee lift rather than a dedicated pedal. - Overall, the machine feels old and clunky. Are newer machines more responsive/fluid to operate or is this the nature of the beast when dealing with walking foot machines? I have an older singer 591 machine for garment sewing that is a dream to work with. ----------------- I am relocating my studio in a couple of weeks out of NYC to rural NJ, where there will be a much smaller pool of mechanics who will be able to come service the machine. That said, it's hard to tell if the mechanics I've hired in the city have really been any good. Does anyone think this machine is fixable? I purchased it because a) it seemed to sew well in the showroom and 2) I really wanted to buy a non-Chinese machine. Now that my business has picked up a little I'm thinking of trying to sell this Adler before I leave the city and upgrading to something more reliable/fun. But looking at the options, if I'm not interested in a Chinese machine, I'm not really seeing any used Adlers or Jukis in the $3-5k range for sale right now locally. Ideally, the machine that I purchased originally would just work as its supposed to! But I'm worried that I purchased a lemon and it can't ever really do what I want it to for a long period of time. Please let me know if you guys have any advice. Thanks!
  25. WTB - Looking for Adler205-64

    HI all, I am looking for Adler 205-64 for my studio If you have one for sale pleas contact me, Regards Chen