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Found 23 results

  1. Hello everyone, I know all the major brands of leather splitters but they are out of my money reach right now. I found a video on YouTube of a guy in Germany making his own splitter and it looks good. I even contacted him and the price is reasonable, about 200 EUR depending on the model. I am not advertising anything, just want to know if anyone knows this guy or has maybe purchased a splitter made by him. His YouTube channel is Alexander Majura.
  2. Hi everyone, This is my first post here on the forum, so I apologize if I didn’t put this in the right place. Sorry for the length, I just want to give all the info I can to get the best advice. Thanks in advance for your time! I recently picked up a side of matte-ish black Horween Essex for a custom tote order. The tote was made and shipped and I started using the rest of the side for a crossbody bag with an alligator flap. I checked in yesterday with the tote customer to make sure she was happy and she said she was, but she’d noticed that the color was rubbing off on her white pants. She didn’t have this problem with her first tote from me last year and I’ve never had this problem in the 3 years I’ve been working with Essex so I was surprised. Out of curiosity, I went over to the alligator and Essex bag that I just finished up and rubbed it with a scrap of light colored T-shirt and sure enough quite a bit of color came off. Obviously, I’m concerned that not only does a customer have a tote that’s leaving color on her clothes, but in the meantime I have just finished an expensive, fairly time consuming hand-stitched bag (my first using alligator) that’ll be rubbing on someone’s shoulder and hip. I can’t have it leaving big black marks on someone’s clothes. I wouldn’t even try and sell it if I know that’s a possibility. Now that the bag is done, what can I do to try and seal it? The edges are all painted with Vernis edge paint so I’m nervous about getting any kind of solvent on them and having that turn into a big mess. I tried buffing the whole bag with a soft cloth to remove excess color, but the color transfer hasn’t stopped. I thought about using Resolene, but I’m concerned about (a) being able to apply it consistently and not having it gum up since it’s all finished and 3-D and not an easy flat surface and (b) won’t it make the matte black really look shiny and plastic-y? I liked the way it looked before with the soft finish. It made the gray alligator flap pop. Lastly, does it work well on leathers with soft-medium tempers. I’ve used it on heavy veg tan work but not this kind of thing. I can’t afford to experiment with stuff that “might” work, because if it works on a flat scrap and not on the finished 3-D bag, the whole thing’s wasted. Is there any way to salvage it? I loved the way it turned out and would really appreciate any advice. I’d also like to be able to help the tote customer so she’s not stuck with a bag that ruins her clothes. She’s in a different state, so if you have a product in mind that she could buy separately and apply as a non leather worker that’s even better. Thanks again! -Hannah
  3. Hi y’all - I’ve been an off-and-on lurker on these forums for a while, & now I have a specific question! I’ve been working on coming up with & testing a solid dog collar design for my goofball German Shepherd. I keep having issues with my collars stretching. For the most recent one, I used a midweight veg tan leather with a softer leather backing, & it was better than previous designs, but still ended up stretching significantly. Should I go to a heavier weight veg? Try backing the veg with harness or latigo leather? Are there certain finishes or treatments that would help stiffen the leather & provide water protection? All ideas & experience appreciated! I want to come up with a design that can be tooled on the outside but still hold up to all the wear that a dog will put a collar through. Thanks! Kambra
  4. I've decided to invest in a skiving machine. I'd love to know how to pick one, what features to look for, what makers are better in terms of durability and ease of maintenance, and finally where to buy one. I primarily work on handbags, wallets and smaller accessories, generally with soft and medium tempered leather usually up to 5-6oz (2-2.4mm). I want to use the skiver for both edges and splitting leather for lining. I understand that a band splitter would be better for actual splitting, but it seems skiving machine would be more flexible and financially more attainable. I'm in the states. My budget is around $1500-2500, though I'm somewhat flexible. I've done some research already, thanks to a lot of posts on this forum. So far it seems I should be looking at bottom feed machines where bell knife has a constant speed and presser foot controllers the feeder roller. And one that has vacuum suction. What other features would be useful for me? Which machines have these functions? I would appreciate any help in picking one. It's a fairly large investment for me and I want to do it right.
  5. tomsmith85717

    Roller feed vs walking foot

    I am looking to buy my first leather sewing machine, I want to primarily make bags, and moccasin style shoes. 2 maybe 3 layers of 6-8 oz softer temper leather. I also like to stitch designs on to webbing belts (2 layers of seat belt webbing). The likelihood of me making a holster or sheath out of leather is slim to none. I might venture into leather belts. So here is where I am going to ask for help. What is the difference between roller feed , active roller feeds (techsew 830) and walking feet (techsew 860) for my applications I have only previously used a pfaff 545 & 1245 so I am familiar with how a walking foot operates, I am more curious what are the advantages and disadvantages of both. I will say I really like the idea of being able to see my needle as it plunges into the leather. I know my weaknesses are long straight lines and over or under running where I want to go because I am horrible at guessing where my needle/target is under the presser foot. I know that no one machine will do everything I want to do but I want a fairly versatile machine to start with and then pick up a 227R or similar cylinder arm medium duty machine that's capable of running 207 or better thread. I would like to get a machine in the next month so please help me understand what is going on, the pros and the cons. If you know of a good article, post or video link it or pm me. Thanks I need all the help I can get.
  6. I'm not so much a beginner in leatherwork itself. But i am a newb on selling handmade leather goods. I'm looking for advice as to how to start a buisness. I tried selling on etsy and it went ok but it wasn't really a buisness. Does anyone have any ideas on where i could start? There is this farmers market every saturday in my city and i was thinking I could try selling there. Im open to any ideas whether it be online or out in the real world. What worked for you?
  7. tomsmith85717

    Thread snips /nippers/ snippers...

    So I have used several kinds of thread snips( or what ever you want to call them) I have noticed that when cutting the heavier threads they get dull quick. I currently have some supper cheap stamped metal ones that are just mangling the thread instead of cutting them. Tried resharpening them but that hasnt been going well. My questions are: 1 What is the preferred name for this device. 2 Any recommendations on brands or styles to look at. 3 Advice on sharpening them. I need some wisdom about these tools and don't want to spend years of my own time to gain it so give me what you got in that department.
  8. Hi folks I am in the uk. I am deliberating about buying a sewing machine, but I have very little idea of where to begin. I make tooled belts, sheaths, pouches, wallets and bags. I was looking at a flat bed walking foot machine (juki 1541) but someone advised me to go for a cylinder arm and build a flat bed to get maximum value. I don't have enough experience about threads or needles or machines and whilst I have watched a number of videos and read a whole load of posts I don't know what I need, or more I am getting very confused about what I need. Other than its got to be walking foot. I have a brother which I was duped into buying, as the seller said it could be used (converted) as a walking foot but it was cheap and I have used it on thin projects for a year of so but it is inconsistant and frustrating. I dont have the money to waste on another mistake. Please help if you can! Thanks Pip
  9. Hello all, I am new here and have recently taken up the hobby of making and selling leather baby moccasins. I started out on an older Singer that belonged to my mother and about a month ago purchased a Singer 4452. Being new to this whole leather stuff, I figured, "it says it sews leather, AND everything else. I will try it." I do sew quite a bit of knit fabric, so the purchase seemed to be a good one for the time being and could hold me over on the leather moccasin making for awhile.I am obviously running into some convenience and mechanical issues with my Singer and wasting quite a bit of leather, so upgrading to the next step seems like the logical thing to do. From what I've gathered, a walking foot industrial sewing machine is what I should be using, and have done a fair amount of reading here and on other websites to try and gather as much info as possible to help me make a good choice in machine, although it's a bit overwhelming as I am still green and some of it is still over my head. So basically, I'm hoping someone can just tell me what machines they would think would be suitable for what I am doing. Here are some specifics: -I'm sewing deerskin at the moment, hopefully calfskin soon, no more than 2mm at the thickest. Not very stiff and exceptionally soft. (Again, I'm a newbie, I don't know the technical terms for leather. (: ) -I live in a very small studio, I do not have space for a table/huge set-up. -I have a limited budget, I can't justify spending $800+ when my profits are so small at the moment. I have been contemplating and researching the portable Consew CP 206R because it is portable and I can set it on my very small kitchen counter and it has the walking foot. I have also read a review of the Alphasew PW200, but haven't gone much further with researching that machine. Everything I have read about the Consew based on outfitting it with needles and thread has also been a bit confusing and overwhelming to me as well, all I know at this point is what I can pick up at my nearest Joann Fabrics. I really would like something that isn't going to be a struggle to find needles/thread for, I really enjoy the convenience of being able to run down the street and pick this stuff up, although I do realize that this might not be a reality anymore with a more specific machine. I really would like to find a machine that can get the job done, is affordable, and won't make me want to pull my hair out. Any advice and suggestions are appreciated! I have attached photos to give you all an idea of what I'm making and maybe that will help with explanations/advice etc.
  10. Hello all! I am here to ask for help narrowing down my choice of leather sewing machine. Please allow me to explain my needs, and also offer the disclaimer that I definitely don't know all of what I'm talking about. My first passion is music, which means I have a lot of time for my second passion, which is leather. I'll make anything anyone asks me to, as long as it is within my abilities. I want to be able to easily make all sorts of garments, everything from pants and shirts to full bodysuits. I already do a lot of saddle stitch for making pet supplies, straps for cameras, wallets, and anything like that. I've even had friends ask me to make leather intimate stuff like corsets and the only reason I said not right now is I don't have a machine for putting together bigger projects like that, and no way am I hand sewing large, complex patterns and designs. I know that a good leatherworker likely will have more than one machine. However, as this is going to be my first real machine, I feel like I should be getting the one that can do the most all around work. I've been researching, asking questions, contacting manufacturers for a long time and have finally narrowed it down to basically one or two models over a few different manufacturers. I also know that everyone might have a different opinion but that most of these machines are on the same level and can't really go wrong with most of them...but still, I like to see what others say. The main piece of advice I have gotten so far is a flatbed compound walking foot machine for light to medium weight material. I mainly use garment leathers and thickness isn't usually much more than a few layers of chap leather, but wouldn't mind being able to sew through thicker, sturdier leather as well. Maybe 2-2.5 oz at most? Here is what I am looking at so far (my price limit is ideally $1500, but I'm reasonably flexible)... Artisan 1797 AB LTHR Consew 206 RB-5 Techsew 1460 OR 1660 (Does anyone know if the 1660 Pro is worth the extra money?) I want to be able to do some things with shape at some point, but know I probably need a cylinder arm machine for that. I have looked at the Artisan 335 B for that option, and briefly spoke to Jerry at Artisan about that machine...would that be a viable option for that "first machine a leather worker should have" because it has the "flatbed worktable" option, which is just a smaller table that sits on the larger table? I already assume I am going to basically get a no on that question. I have been told numerous times to start with a flatbed compound etc.... If there are any other machines that I should be looking at based on what I listed above, I am more than open to suggestions. Also, feel free to ask any more questions that might help decide. Thank you everyone in advance. It kind of seems like all any of the machines I have on my final list are fine choices, but I'd like to hear other people's experiences with any of them. Thanks again! Aaron
  11. Hey guys! Just thought this community would appreciate this. A short video giving some insight on the mindset of a super successful creator. (Film director and leather craftsman). Enjoy! You can check out more of Benito's work at @bennyboyindustries on instagram!
  12. This beautiful Cowboy 227r just arrived last night from Neel's Saddlery. I assembled it all last night and from what I can tell it is ready to go, but I'm really nervous to do ANYTHING after I turn it on. I've never worked with this kind of machine and I'm afraid I might be missing something before I try it out. So I'm just looking for any experienced advice before I start. maybe it's just to tell me to stop being afraid and get on with it thanks in advance!!
  13. Guest

    Spat/half chap advice

    Hey guys! So I'm begining to build a Star Wars costume, and I'm looking for a good pair of leather boots. I found these online and they are exactly what I'm looking for. However, I'm not happy with the fake leather, especially as the rest of the costume will incorperate real leather. I'm sure I could find a suitable pair of boots, but I've scoured the internet and can't find a pair of spats/half chaps that appeal to me. I'm not afriad of taking on a challange, much of the custom is going to be made from scratch, but the point is; would making the spats as seen here be a reasonable project for an inexperienced one such as me, or would it be best to find a local craftsman?
  14. zaynexpetty

    Need Advice On Buying A New Knife.

    I have been having some trouble cutting round corners and circles out of leather. Right know I have a utility knife, which works good for cutting straight lines for the most part, and an x acto style knife, which I have been using for cutting corners. The x acto is too flimsy and tends to bend when I am cutting corners, making the cut at an angle, most of the time. I would like a knife that is that same style, but with a sturdier blade that wont bend. Anyone have any suggestions? I almost bought this knife, but decided I better ask for some advice before doing so: http://usaknifemaker.com/industrial-knife-set-especially-designed-for-leather.html#.U785SajPmO0 Thanks, Zayne
  15. Hi, everybody! I'm about to embark in my second large project. I don't know whether that's the right term, but it's how I saw it referred to in a Youtube tutorial (by Leodis Leather). It basically refers to a bag with the stitches on the inside... saddle stitching, that is. I'm planning to make a bag somewhat similar to a Brixton by Ona Bags: esentially, a messenger bag with two pockets on the front side and one pocket on each side of the bag. Although I won't be selling this bag since it's for myself, I plan to make some modifications to the design as to keep it original, such as measures, form, handles, straps, thickness of leather to be used, no lining, fastening with double rings instead of buckles, burnished instead of folded over edges, attachment points in the corners to extra stuff (tripods, blankets, whatnot...), etc. In the end, it would be a bag of about 15"W x 12"H x 5-6"D As I said before, the bag won't be lined, since I intend to use a heavy full grain leather. In the range of heavy leathers, I currently have access only to a 8-10 oz that seems to be chrome tanned (when you cut it it has a white/blueish color in the middle) with some color applied to both sides of the leather. I know it's a thick leather for a bag and I have some questions about it. First of all, the leather used in Ona seems to be about 3-4 oz (only a guess from what I see in the photos and some basic scale math I've been doing). Actually, I intend to make my bag from a leather in the 5-6 oz range, either by searching for a different leather source or by thinning down on what I have at hand. and here is where my first question lies: how do I thin down from 8-10 to 5-6 oz without a splitter? I would need to thin down the entire piece of leather before cutting to achieve a uniform look and feel for the bag. I thought of using a circular sander on the suede-like side, but I've made some tests and it would be an obscene amount of work to do. On the other hand, I've noticed that sanding really ends up softenning the leather up really nice, no matter how thick it ends up being. My second question: If you look at the picture, you'll see that on the corners of the fron side of the bag, there would be as many as four layers of leather to be sewn together. If I manage to reduce the thickness of the leather to my target 5-6 oz, we're still talking of a seam that would around 8-10 mm thick... and that's only on a straight line. Wouldn't this put too much stress on the joints when I try to flip the bag inside out? how about the corners? By the way, I'm using (or planning to use) Tandy's Tejas poly waxed thread... it fades a bit with extensive use, but that's actually something I've come to like in my backpack and a couple wallets I've made so far. If the stress is too much on the joints, what are my choices? skive the places where the seams will be? or change the design altogether to an outside stitch one? One possibility I've been contemplating (although I would really like to make it this way) is to get rid of the side pockets and instead put some attachment straps to do some sort of modular system. This would add the benefit of loosing some wanted weight depending on the situation. I hope I made any sense and I'm really looking for your advice on this one.
  16. Hi all, I'm pretty new to tooling, and I notice that when the pros do their tooling they tend to work on big pieces of leather and they stay nice and flat while they're being tooled. I'm working on tiny things like fobs and patches, and about halfway through a project I find the leather curling up so bad it starts slapping the stone when I hit it anywhere but where I'm holding it down. I apologize if this is a well-answered problem--I've tried searching this forum but didn't find anything. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. Dave Example attached. 8oz leather, approx 2.5" x 5", halfway through tooling.
  17. hello, beginner here with singer 29k-4 cylinder bed (1904 dated) i am self taught (outside of any info i found online and on this website). i am currently in the process of reconstructing a shoe upper (deconstruction of shoe and complete reconstruction with superior skins). my singer works well 85% of the time. sometimes the mechanism that transfers force from the hand operated wheel to the rest of the machine locks up and ends up throwing the shuttle arm and gears off. also the foot on the machine tears up suede and thin leather . i also have trouble sititching the uppers perfectly straight (maybe because the cylinder bed does not offer much working surface?) i feel like although this machine is great and gave me a much better understanding of how they operate i am considering adding a juki/pfaff/consew or any newer flat bed machine, mostly because i feel it is a more reliable product? and it would be easier to stitch perfect lines/curves with a flat bed machine. my question is: should i invest an a newer machine? (i plan on doing this for a while) or should i add a flat table to my singer and stick it out with a machine that works 85% of the time. i am gratefull for any info. thanks
  18. StumpyMcNubbins

    Completely New To Leatherworking

    Hello everyone and thanks in advance for any advice you can give me. I have never worked with leather before. I work as a Graphic Designer for a T-Shirt shop. I recently pre-ordered a laser for cutting and engraving. I want to use it to make custom wallets and bags. I don't expect to receive it for several months, but I want to do a lot of research before I get started. I have many questions, and there are probably questions I should ask, but don't know I need to ask. I have researched a little, but finding specific answers to my questions has been yielding a lot of contradictory answers. I'm hoping the knowledgeable members here can help me get started. I'll list a few questions I have, and feel free to let me know if I'm missing something important. 1. What type of leather should I start with for wallet making? From what I am reading, Vegetable Tanned in the 3oz range seems appropriate. Am I right? Do you have any other suggestions? 2. What type of threading should I use? I intend to cut stitching holes, then use an awl and hand-stitch. 3. Can you recommend any vendors for leather, stitching and tools? 4. I know it will depend on the design, but can anybody give me a general idea on the square footage I can expect for a wallet? I'm thinking maybe around 2. 5. Is there anything I need to know concerning cutting leather with a laser? I intend to stay away from dyed leathers to avoid corrosive fumes damaging my machine. I am seeing that using masking tape over the leather can help prevent smoke damage. I don't know if there may be something else to consider. I really appreciate your time if you can offer any tips.
  19. Okay so I'm completely new to any sort of leatherwork, but I've been thinking of doing a project that involves it in honor of my all time favorite movie and need professional advice on the names of hardware that I need as well as how to treat, cut, paint, and sew the leather to fit onto the rods that connect to a metal base that individually pivot so the tail piece can be opened and folded. I attached the screenshot from the movie that I want to replicate as well as a couple of blueprints for how I think I should go about the project. Like I said, I'm an amateur so any professional advice would be appreciated. This is a project I hope to do soon once I have more free time and money on my hands, but also want to stay on a budget while still getting the highest quality stuff possible. I hope to have a life size genuine replica of the tail (4.5 feet) long and opens at about the same length at the longest point of the tail for display at my home to hang on hooks or nails. Also if I somehow pull this off, I want to know how to keep the display looking its best so it lasts a lifetime. Right now, in terms of hardware, I need to know the names of the objects I'm hoping to build the metal framework out of. I want to find a metal flate piece that has holes where I want to attach to the metal hollow rods using some sort of pivot hinge so it moves on horizontal plan to open and close the tail to make it realistic to the one from the movie. Also in terms of the leather, I want to know the best type of leather to get. Looking for the type that isn't too rough while still being flexible and thin so its easy to work with so I can sew the two pieces together once they are cut so that there are slits between the two pieces that will be placed over each of the rods. I need to find the best way to go about painting the leather so that the paint looks roughened while still looking vibrant and want the paint to last as long as possible. I hope my blueprints help explain this a little better and maybe someone with the expertise can guide me in the best way to go about this project.
  20. Please help! I'm making a tooled leather journal. I'll be dying the tooled areas with Fiebings British Tan spirit dye, and the rest I'm dying with Fiebings medium brown spirit dye. I'd like the tooled letters to stand out more (since the British Tan is a nice reddish color, but the letters don't stand out as noticeable as I'd like). I've read SO much about Fiebings Hi Liter and antique finish, but nothing tells me whether I can effectively use them in conjunction with a spirit-based dye of a different color. For example, if I wanted to have the same "hi-lited" effect with a green spirit dye in a future project. Would either the Hi Liter or Antique Finish work for what I need? I REALLY appreciate your help- I'm only 3 weeks away from deadline (I'm making this journal to raise money in a fundraiser event). Thanks in advance.
  21. There are frequent requests for help & advice on getting started by beginners. That means they receive very similar replies each time. There is already a section on 'Getting started'. How about creating a sticky/pinned thread in that section entitled 'Help For Beginners' or 'Advice for Beginners' It would include things like a list of references to books and YouTube; suppliers; and a basic tool list. Does anyone else think this is a good idea? Or not?
  22. Greetings everyone just wanted to introduce myself and say hello to the community. I had decided to take my imagination and set it into work into something. Got myself a starter kit from Tandy Leathers and I'm hooked. I just a beginner and slowly building up my tools and knowledge of the craft. I hoping to continue to learn and hopefully find someone in my area who would be willing to teach me and help me grow as a leather worker. But in the meanwhile greetings and well met.
  23. Afternoon/evening folks, I'm looking at getting a machine in the very near future in order to expedite construction, and I'd like a little advice. I'm completely in the dark when it comes to machines - though my ex recommended that I get an old singer walking foot or one of the old treadle cobbler's machines. Just to give you an idea of what I'd like to do in the future: Leather and cloth combination for wallets Gloves Jackets bags (hopefully at some point I get brave enough to do shoes) Ultimately I realize that for these items, hand stitching just seems to not be the preferred technique, as the small aberrations in stitches would likely lend themselves to a rather primitive aesthetic. Your knowledge and advice is greatly appreciated. V/R, Seth