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Found 164 results

  1. Hi Everyone, I've just purchased a vintage belt set. The tip has no hole for securing it. It's turquoise inlaid so I'm reluctant to go at it with tools to make a hole. I don't want to glue the tip only to lose it if the glue doesn't hold. Anyone have an suggestions of how I can fix the tip? Thanks!
  2. Made a couple of belts... think they came out ok
  3. I am a huge fan of buckle guy, but I am looking for some more suppliers that offer similar quality/style without minimums. I am specifically looking for some sleek/minimal looking solid brass center bar buckles. It would also need to be a situation where I could continue to buy stock in the future, so I don't think anything on eBay or amazon would be a good choice (unless you know more than I do). Ive checked out buckleguy, OTB, leatherguy, leathersmith, weaver, zack white, tandy, springfield, brettuns... Maybe overseas? I don't know. Thanks! Zayne
  4. Hello im Sarah from Denmark I just joint this cool site and wanted to show a bit of my work. I have worked with leather about a year now and I hope to learn alot from this site so I can get even better comments are welcome
  5. A friend commissioned me to make this belt for her husband(it is inspired from a dog collar I made). It is light weight saddle skirting(about12-13oz) with 3-4oz deertan cow hide lining. You can probably tell it is hand sewn. Did not know what to charge as this was the first belt I have sold, she gave me $100….. Feel it was a fair price but I would feel better about it if I stitched it on a machine, would have saved 3- 4 hours work(I need a sewing machine, don't know how much longer my shoulders will last. It is a lot of thread to pull for an 8 foot run, about 30 feet. Thanks for viewing Allan
  6. Hi Steve, You said you had a Pilot manual you could copy for me for a few dollars. Any chance you could do this please?

  7. I guessing this is most probably personal preference, but just wondering what thread spacing folks are using for a double stitched belt. I was looking to run the outer stitch at 3/16 from the edge and the inner stitch 3/8 from the edge.
  8. Belt measuring 77' long and 1' wide with tooling and metal fittings from the early-to-mid 13th century. Started this last year but only got round to finishing it last week because I really underestimated how long the tooling would take! The tooling was done using tools from the same period, and is inspired by art and architecture in Britain at this time. There's a few more odd looking leaves than I'd like, but having to do 63 of the little buggers means not every one can be just right. There's also a few collapsed edges in places from the burnishing, not that noticeable but still annoying, so need more practice there. The buckle and buckle plate are made from silver, with inset garnets and green enamelling, and the lion strap-end is cast from brass. All of them are based off finds from the period, and were made by an old re-enactor friend over at Westwir, who makes really nice jewellery and medieval belt fittings. Any feedback and critique is appreciated!
  9. So I've been busy making things for Xmas. Hope my family are happy Please give me feedback on my creations - I'm still a novice. (Hoping for some better tools for Xmas ) I'm not completely happy with the campaign stool top - maybe I was a bit ambitious with the carving and the antiquing didn't work as well as I'd hoped (watched the videos, but maybe the tooling is not up to scratch). I kind of regret leaving the circle natural - but you learn as you go. Got my husband working on the legs, will post a photo when the whole things is done.
  10. OK guys, now that it has been gifted by my client to their recipient for Christmas: Here is a recently completed project that I have been itching to share! It is Hermann Oak English Bridle, and the colour is Havana. The red stitching is called 'Slam Thread' by Lekoza. It is stitched all the way down once, backstitched all the way back to the top, and then backstitched down 2 holes again to finish. Edges are bevelled, dyed dark brown, and burnished with bees wax. I hope you like it!
  11. Wow I found an add on craigslist for a campbell harness stitcher. The add had been running for 6 months and started at 4000, 3000, 2000, best offer. I called and scheduled a visit. The stitcher has been sitting for around 20 years. Was purchased for a business that never got off the ground so machine was put in storage. When i saw this stitcher it looked a little rough. I offered 1200 and to my surprise he quickly said yes. I got the Campbell home and called Campbell Randall and discovered it was a Randall. I oiled it, cleaned all the dust off (lots of dust over 20 years) oiled, cleaned, ordered parts, timed, adjusted and turned her over. She was stiff so I oiled her again and again untill she was smooth. I got some thread and threaded her up, wound a bobbin and put in a double piece of 15 oz and sewed it by hand (she did not come with a table) but she stitches like a dream. Nice tight stitches through 1/2 inch of leather, 1/4 in leather. Got to get a table, motor and speed reducer to try her out for good. 20 years of sitting now she's mine.
  12. I want to make a belt from python and/or snakeskin. How many ounces should the lining be? Should i also back the python with a thin piece of leather? I normally back it linen however have noticed that other leatherworkers projects looks as though they have padding between the two pieces, the exotic and veg-tan. Thanks.
  13. Looking at a Singer 111w151. It's an old army parachute-repair type machine. It's needle feed. Takes 20 and 22 needles. Size 22 is good for 138 thread. Has a 1/2 HP clutch motor. Manual says 7/16 clearance under presser foot. Is this OK for veg tanned leather glue sandwich with combined thickness of 8-10 oz? Assuming the 111W is OK for dress-belt type work, what changes could be made to increase the capability of this basic machine? Add a thread lubricator? Change to pulley? In the many other posts I've read, the usual problems are under-powered machines that have the wrong feed and general problems with durability. With a 111W casting and mechanics, it's hard to imagine what it would take to deflect the needle bar or crack the casting or make the belt slip. Given enough horse power and a quality mechanism, it seems* like even a basic 111 machine could do much more than you would expect from a medium-heavy-fabric type machine. Anyone have experience modifying sewing machines like this? Increasing the presser foot height? Adding another foot to the feed mechanism?
  14. This is a really easy project where the result far exceeds the effort, IMHO. I couldn't find other examples of carving a crocodile pattern on this site (or anywhere on the net for that matter) and so am reposting this from the Show Off section in the hope of (a) helping someone who is looking for some ideas to snazz up the basic belt design and (b) to build up karma credits. This is a 1" wide pattern that will work with 1.25" - 1.5" belts once you add borders. But you can easily modify these dimensions by either shrinking or stretching the image to suit your needs. Or heck, just draw your own. Not much to it really. The belt on the left was finished using Fiebing's Tan Antique Finish which I mixed with a splash of Dark Red Oil Dye. The antique finish does a great job of highlighting the carved lines and tooling impressions. Surprisingly, however, the carving and tooling looks just as good without the aid of antique highlighting as shown in the solid black example (Fiebing's Oil Dye). Just guessing that with such a basic pattern and where all the cuts and impressions are deep that it holds its own regardless of the finish. Seems like there's no way to screw up on this one. I think you can get by with any finish you want. EDIT: I just remembered that for the belt on the left with the mahogany finish I first painted a resist stripe down the middle using Super Sheen, then applied the antique finish. That's gives it a fade look. I also hit it with black on the borders using an airbrush. If you don't have an airbrush, get one. They are super easy to use. Just like painting with a can of spray paint. Easy easy easy.
  15. I have 88 conchos for sale. Can sell individually but prefer bulk! $3 each, $25 for 10 pc. or $175 for all 88. They are 2 5/8" x 2 1/2" and fit a 1" belt. Shipping not included.
  16. I made a set for Taurus M85. Left hand holster, belt, and ammo pouch for .38 spec. I hope, you like it!
  17. I'd like some help on centering holes and correct spacings. When punching belt holes, I can lay out the measurements, even using templates, and mark a scribe/pin hole correctly; pleased with the spacing. So the issue comes in where I use a larger hole punch on my hand press of say 13/64" to go over a screw post stud or a Sam Brown stud. I'm having a hard time getting a large punch hole to exactly center over a single point. It makes the errors add up and some holes will be too close together while others way to far apart. I've tried the 'barely touch it to make a small indent and try again' but is there a better way?
  18. A friend sold me an antique "Santa for President" belt buckle to wear when I dress up for Santa for the kids at the area hospitals, but it needs a belt. The belt loop is about 3/8 wide and 2 1/2" across. I was hoping the belt could flange out a little bit to make it look wider. It's such a nice piece I would like the belt to be tooled and painted so that it really stands out, but I'm probably not going to be able to afford anything more than a plain black belt. I was hoping that I could get it so that I could get the tooling and painting done in a year or two, when I have some more money. My whole costume is handmade by myself. I'm actually too big for commercial Santa suits.
  19. Here is my first big leatherwork project. I think its turned out OK. I'm quite pleased with the arrow basketweave on the belt, that worked really well. The tiger on the quiver could be better, but quite pleased with the overall appearance. Maybe I need better tools! The basketweave on the quiver bent the cheap ebay tool - now I have a much better one! I took the pattern off my existing quiver, so I'm happy that worked out. I did have some problems with the finishing after antiqueing, but did manage to recover. What do you think? I'll have to see how it stands up to actual use.
  20. Hi everyone! i ve been working wth leather and been a member of this forum for a while now but i never really shared any of my projects until now. i have recently designed a mini fat bowie for myself named "The Monster Cleaver" and got it done through ABS J.S. Doug Campbell. After getting the knife done i have decided to make a unique and one of a kind sheath and way to carry it, so i ve started my designing process and came with what i thought was a unique design. Anyways i wanted to share the finish product with you and get your opinions and any questions you might have about the sheath or the knife. Thanks for checking out my work and topic, i hope you like what your see, thanks again and enjoy.
  21. First attempt at a dual rig gun holster
  22. Made these dress belts for some customers. 25mm and 38mm. The leather is vegetable tanned with a pigment coating. Looks really nice and consistent in finish, but won't be as durable as an aniline finish I know. Still, these belts were about price point.
  23. Hey guys, Just wanted to post some pictures of the belts we've started making. I think we've finally got the process down, but as many of you know, there is always more to learn. Next step is to try the neatsfoot oil/beeswax mixture as a sealant and finisher. Right now, we're using a 50/50 mix of Acrylic Resolene and water.