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Found 180 results

  1. Hi Everyone, I've just purchased a vintage belt set. The tip has no hole for securing it. It's turquoise inlaid so I'm reluctant to go at it with tools to make a hole. I don't want to glue the tip only to lose it if the glue doesn't hold. Anyone have an suggestions of how I can fix the tip? Thanks!
  2. Totes and a Belt

    Two tote bags and a belt I finished a couple of weeks ago as gifts for my mom, sister and nephew. Delivered them to New Brunswick last week. The body of the tote is the same, but these were practice pieces, allowing me to vary the pocket styles and straps/fasteners. I think I might do one more of this style for my daughter who is going back to University in a couple of weeks, then change it up a bit.
  3. Belt measuring 77" long and 1" wide with tooling and metal fittings from the early-to-mid 13th century. Started this last year but only got round to finishing it last week because I really underestimated how long the tooling would take! The tooling was done using tools from the same period, and is inspired by art and architecture in Britain at this time. There's a few more odd looking leaves than I'd like, but having to do 63 of the little buggers means not every one can be just right. There's also a few collapsed edges in places from the burnishing, not that noticeable but still annoying, so need more practice there. The buckle and buckle plate are made from silver, with inset garnets and green enamelling, and the lion strap-end is cast from brass. All of them are based off finds from the period, and were made by an old re-enactor friend over at Westwir, who makes really nice jewellery and medieval belt fittings. Any feedback and critique is appreciated!
  4. Hello, I am having a small problem finishing the edges of Sedgwick English bridal. I bevel, sand, burnish with water and soap, dye, then apply a finish. For the final finish I have tried bee's wax and pearl glue (a traditional English technic). I have of course tried other methods and the order etc. I am not new to burnishing (but I am new to English bridal) and can get great looking results. What I am concerned about is wear. One thing that has been recommended to me is to use tallow fat as a filler/burnishing gum. I just can't find any at the moment Here is my problem: The edges look fantastic! Smooth, great color and shiny. But...it seems they simply will not last. After a day or so of normal use, parts of the edge seem to dry out and then the edge get fuzzy or slightly rough again (especially around the buckle). It is not bad, it just doesn't look 100% anymore. I want my customers very happy and don't want the belt wearing after a week of use. I am currently waiting to see how my latest attempt will hold. Is this normal? Am I just being overly picky? Any ideas on what I may be doing wrong or how I can resolve this? Thank you for any help you can offer! -Adam Here are some photos of how my edges look when "new" Sorry but I do not have a photo of the problem I mentioned. I will try to get a photo when I get a chance.
  5. Hey everyone, First post! I came here for your opinion on a recent purchase - a full grain leather belt from a company called Slidebelts. I made this $85 investment hoping to get a belt that i can take care of and maintain so it will last me a very long time. When the belt came, i noticed it appears to be two pieces of leather glued together with two light layers separated by a darker layer in the middle that i am assuming is glue (see pics). I was expecting one piece of leather, although it does not specifically say its one piece in the item description... Based on the picture, am i looking at 2 pieces glued together, is this common practice for a full grain leather belt, does this defeat the purpose / decrease the longevity of the belt? I'm feeling like i may have been bamboozled and would like to make this a learning experience. Thanks for your insight!
  6. Weight lifting belt buckle

    Does anyone know where I could find heavy duty buckles for a weight lifting belt? Like the one in the picture or similar! Thank you!!
  7. Skiver/Splitter

    I’m a Newbie to This Arena And Want to Buy Some Tools That Will Last For Quite a While. I want to get a skiver/splitter. Have Heard Much About Osborne 84 And 86. I Also Recognize There Are Many Others Out There That Are Similar. I Don’t Mind Spending The Money to Get a New Osborne 84 But I’m Wondering if it Would be a Better Idea For me to Get an Vintage One And Get it Cleaned up or Even Another Brand /model. Any suggestions would be very grateful.
  8. Greetings, my name is Randall Smith and I am fairly new to the leather game. I am currently specializing in making high quality and long lasting belts. I've been hand tooling leather belts with 8-10oz Tandy Leather Hides and recently tried an 8-10oz Wickett and Craig tooling side. It seems to me that 8-10oz leather is not thick enough to be durable for a long period of time. I am wondering what leather and thickness you use in order to make the longest lasting tooled belts. I thought about buying skirting because it's typically thicker, but I'm worried that skirting sides wont be as clean. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Additionally, I have been making english bridle belts with Wickett and Craigs leather in 10-12oz. I am wondering what brand ( Hermann Oak, Wickett and Craig, etc), what style ( Harness, English Bridle, Bridle, Skirting, etc), and what thickness (oz) makes the highest quality and longest lasting belt (In your opinion). Help would be greatly appreciated, I'm trying to make the best!! Randall
  9. reversible belt

    I need some help from my fellow leather workers. I have a customer that wants a reversible belt. Should be easy to do right? not from what my searches are telling me. They want a 1.5" belt and the largest reversible buckle I can find is 1.35". They do not want it tapered and they do want both sides tooled. They also want it as thick as I can make it which is easier because I do have some saddle skirting I can use. Here's my 2 part question: 1. Does anyone have a source for larger reversible buckles like the big names use or 2. Can I do it the same as normal for the buckle and use a normal buckle that can be taken off (using snaps) and reversed. The back side would obviously have 2.5" of the opposite color (black on 1 side, timber brown on the other) and use a 6-7oz "liner"? that would meet up with the folded over part Any other ideas would be welcome
  10. I've been looking at harmonica belts.. i have to make one for a friend.. i'm envisioning ideas so that it won't be like the others i've seen..has anyone on here made any .. it would be great to see them
  11. I have a friend who has an old western style gun belt and wants to know if I can take off the old cracked lining of the inside of the belt and replace it. I am fairly new to leatherwork, I've made some wallets, keychains, leatherman cases. But I haven't messed with lining too much especially the removal of old lining. Once I get the old stitches out what is the best way to remove the old lining without damaging the belt?
  12. Female Figure Carving

    A custom order.
  13. Hey guys - I'm looking to buy a 1.5 or 1.75 inch wide unfinished (no dye, probably veg tan), horsehide belt strip. I don't want the snaps or slit for the buckle, just a strip. Many places sell the horse butts but I don't have a strap cutter and would prefer to just buy a belt strip. I think Zack White and Maverick just sells the horse butts. Does anyone know where I can buy a strip that I can make into a belt? It ideally be like this one from Gustin, but with no holes or rivets - I believe this is Horween leather, but I don't know where to buy the actual belt strip. https://www.weargustin.com/store/4505 Thanks!
  14. Solid Brass Hardware Supplier

    I am a huge fan of buckle guy, but I am looking for some more suppliers that offer similar quality/style without minimums. I am specifically looking for some sleek/minimal looking solid brass center bar buckles. It would also need to be a situation where I could continue to buy stock in the future, so I don't think anything on eBay or amazon would be a good choice (unless you know more than I do). Ive checked out buckleguy, OTB, leatherguy, leathersmith, weaver, zack white, tandy, springfield, brettuns... Maybe overseas? I don't know. Thanks! Zayne
  15. So my father in law needed a new belt for an upcoming celebration, I did my best and followed the edges guide from Bob Park, and I must say ..it is worth it... I love the way it looks and feels, so glad I found it...
  16. Greetings, I am looking for someone willing to make a few dress belts for me. Nothing super complex or ornate, but what could be worn with a traditional or conservative suit. I am not tied to goat leather, I only mentioned it because I think it would be hardy enough to last as a dress belt. I am Hindu, so the only absolute restrictions are on cow- or horse-based leathers or glues (hopefully unnecessary), but I would like a more conventional style belt, so I was planning on staying away from materials like ostrich leather. Please PM if you are interested in helping me. Thank you, Benjamin
  17. Even after resizing the pics it's kicking 'em back so I'll probably end up with 4 or 5 posts. Here's the belt.
  18. Haven't been real regular of late but here's a few things I've been fooling with. My wife complained long enough about my water bottle wrapped in Reflectix, so I was force to create a custom bottle holder. A friend gave me a wetterlings forest axe so once again I custom fitted it with a new mask. the others are self explanitory. Lotta pics so may hafta bust this up into a couple of posts.
  19. By the end of the week I am expecting to receive the following in the post: A cheap (Chinese made, with probable Japanese influence) beginner's sett of leather working tools from Ebay A remnant/pieces pack of leather, needles, and thread from The Identity Store A copy of "The Leatherworking Handbook" by Valerie Michael from Amazon Yet to acquire from the local chain DIY store (probably nearer the time, or on Sunday if it slips my mind before then which is likely to happen) are: wood and fixings to make a cheap stitching pony Evo-Stik Time Bond contact adhesive an Oilstone (or similar) for inevitable initial sharpening of previously mentioned tools as well as general upkeep later on miscellaneous things that catch my eye which may be helpful such as clamps, sandpaper, straight edge etc Other things yet to be appropriated into my "kit": worksurface stuff (cutting mat, poly board, granite (or similar)) decent desk lamp as most of my work will be completed in the late evening/small hours after finishing the late shift at "the day job" and goodness knows my eyes will need all the help they can get edge slicking substance graph/grid paper for when I feel up to making my own patterns bone folder type tool stitching awl Things I already have, yet to be consolidated together: poly mallet basic geometry set (ruler, square, compases etc) pencils large toolbox for storage stack of "craft" drawers for storage non-marring spudger set which I'm sure will come in handy for poking/prodding in crevices metal bodied Utility knife (and blades) Extra Virgin Olive Oil in lieu of more specialist finishes tonnes of old clothes for rags Things I will probably get at a later date once I get a feel for everything (this does not include ad hoc replacement/upgrading of any of the above when needed): butcher's block style work station (as I'll mostly be working at my 10yr old pine desk in my bedroom initially, maybe out in the shed weather permitting) relevant dyes, treatments, etc and relevant applicators basic carving tools (I do not plan on getting into this much but I guess it's always handy to be able pop a pretty border on something special) ___ I know the cost of starting a new hobby from scratch is always going to be a major consideration, but it seems leathercraft is even more so. Yes I know it's no good moaning to other people who have all been there/done that, but starting out on a shoe string is still likely to cost me upwards of £100 ($125 for you colonials ). Being the sort of person I am, often doing things on a whim, and generally cautious with cash, I do not want to go to the lengths that some do and get The Works in terms of equipment and materials to start with. I don't want to spend a small fortune on something if I don't end up getting decently into it to justify the cost. That said, it seems the general advice in terms of initial outlay is "get the best you can afford" and that's what I'm doing I suppose. I guess there are those out there who have started out with much less, and I have no need nor reason trying to justify what I'm doing. I guess in a way I'm secretly hoping that I get sufficiently good enough at the whole "leather thing" that in the long run I can start going to fairs, events, do made-to-order and the like, and be able to become (at least partially) self employed. But that's definitely a long way off. I think for me leathercraft will always be a matter of being on a shoestring, at least in the sense of trying to get the best from the least. I've always been enthralled by the way craftsmen of all disciplines in years gone-by have come up with ingenious solutions which even centuries or millennia haven't changed much, and as much as possible I want to keep what I do "low-tech": drawing up templates by hand rather than using PC software, using as traditional methods and tools as possible, and if possible trying to be authentic in style/process with any historical based pieces I produce. I (like to think) I am fairly good at improvising, and this will also keep costs down. Who needs a £40 edge slicker when a double-pronged piece of deer antler (free if you know where/when to look) will do? Or expensive black dyes if you can master the likes of vinegaroon and lampblack?
  20. Made a couple of belts... think they came out ok
  21. Hello im Sarah from Denmark I just joint this cool site and wanted to show a bit of my work. I have worked with leather about a year now and I hope to learn alot from this site so I can get even better comments are welcome
  22. A friend commissioned me to make this belt for her husband(it is inspired from a dog collar I made). It is light weight saddle skirting(about12-13oz) with 3-4oz deertan cow hide lining. You can probably tell it is hand sewn. Did not know what to charge as this was the first belt I have sold, she gave me $100….. Feel it was a fair price but I would feel better about it if I stitched it on a machine, would have saved 3- 4 hours work(I need a sewing machine, don't know how much longer my shoulders will last. It is a lot of thread to pull for an 8 foot run, about 30 feet. Thanks for viewing Allan
  23. I guessing this is most probably personal preference, but just wondering what thread spacing folks are using for a double stitched belt. I was looking to run the outer stitch at 3/16 from the edge and the inner stitch 3/8 from the edge.
  24. So I've been busy making things for Xmas. Hope my family are happy Please give me feedback on my creations - I'm still a novice. (Hoping for some better tools for Xmas ) I'm not completely happy with the campaign stool top - maybe I was a bit ambitious with the carving and the antiquing didn't work as well as I'd hoped (watched the videos, but maybe the tooling is not up to scratch). I kind of regret leaving the circle natural - but you learn as you go. Got my husband working on the legs, will post a photo when the whole things is done.
  25. OK guys, now that it has been gifted by my client to their recipient for Christmas: Here is a recently completed project that I have been itching to share! It is Hermann Oak English Bridle, and the colour is Havana. The red stitching is called 'Slam Thread' by Lekoza. It is stitched all the way down once, backstitched all the way back to the top, and then backstitched down 2 holes again to finish. Edges are bevelled, dyed dark brown, and burnished with bees wax. I hope you like it!