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Found 8 results

  1. It's a design from one of those Al Stohlman stencils, I'm not designing my own yet. It's 9oz leather. It just doesn't look right. I feel like I'm doing something wrong. I used to have an issue where I was tooling with the leather way too wet, so I stopped doing that and all my work looks improved, but I still feel like something is not "clicking"? Like I'm missing something about this. I have most of the Al Stohlman books including Figure Carving Finesse. Sometimes it's a bit overwhelming and confusing though, and most of all I wish I could see his work in real life, because I stare at the flat photos in the books and I wonder how deep the cuts are and such...and sometimes it's hard to make out what effect he's trying to teach? I feel like I need to see and touch to really understand, but that's not possible...I don't know any leatherworkers in my area either. I feel like maybe I'm striking too hard or cutting too deep? Beveling too deep? Using the wrong bevelers? Stohlman recommends certain specific bevelers for figure carving, but I don't have those exact ones (yet). I have these straight bevelers, B935 and the bigger/wider version of that one. Will it really look THAT much better if I use the triangle-shaped "figure bevelers" Stohlman says to use? Also I don't know what Stohlman means when he talks about using the modeling tool to "smooth and round off edges" of the beveling. Like, I see this ledge that occurs when you bevel, but I don't really understand how to make it round, when I try to use the modeling tool on it it just feels like I'm making the image less dynamic and pressing the edges down so they don't stand out as much. idk if that makes sense. Obviously the lines inside the animal (supposed to be muscle definition) is a hot mess. Also I suppose I should add some fur texture? So idk. Any and all advice and critique is welcomed. I kinda like how this turned out because I really like working with thick leather, it allows a lot of depth which is fun, but I still feel like I'm not understanding something about it.
  2. Hi all, let me introduce myself alittle. I am retired due to movement disability and pretty much home bound. I have worked with Paracord for a few yrs making collars/leashes and halters etc.. I have gotten a bit bored with that and want to expand my work to include braided leather show leads and training leads. I will use Kangaroo lacing with a cord for the show leads and have made one pretty much as a practice one with 3/32 size lacing. I love working with it! Was certainly a learning experience Finally to my questions. I have been told my one marker that all lacing should be beveled, well I tried and no way could I bevel the 3/32 and the picture shows the result of no beveling but did roll it. I have since gotten 1/8 inch kangaroo and it looks like it should be beveled but I cannot manage that. So would like to get lots of advise on that or even a place I can buy it already beveled. Next BIG issue is I suck at knots! The turkhead shown on the handle in picture is way too big and I really need a smoother transition, help, guidence here would be awesome. Thank you for your help in advance.
  3. Hi all, let me introduce myself alittle. I am retired due to movement disability and pretty much home bound. I have worked with Paracord for a few yrs making collars/leashes and halters etc.. I have gotten a bit bored with that and want to expand my work to include braided leather show leads and training leads. I will use Kangaroo lacing with a cord for the show leads and have made one pretty much as a practice one with 3/32 size lacing. I love working with it! Was certainly a learning experience Finally to my questions. I have been told my one marker that all lacing should be beveled, well I tried and no way could I bevel the 3/32 and the picture shows the result of no beveling but did roll it. I have since gotten 1/8 inch kangaroo and it looks like it should be beveled but I cannot manage that. So would like to get lots of advise on that or even a place I can buy it already beveled. Next BIG issue is I suck at knots! The turkhead shown on the handle in picture is way too big and I really need a smoother transition, help, guidence here would be awesome. Thank you for your help in advance.
  4. Hi Everyone, I have been having some troubles perfecting my beveling for very small objects especially letters. Can anyone give me some tips on how to better tool these areas? i am using the smallest beveling tool offered, and try smoothing areas out with a modeling spoon but it doesn't seem to be doing the trick. I think it still looks a bit sloppy. I've included a couple snap shots of the order i am currently working on. Thanks
  5. Hey everyone, I'm new to the site and pretty new to leatherworking. So far I have tried my hand mostly on sheaths and holsters with some success. I am currently in the process of making a "fancy" blood tracking collar for one of my tracking dogs and hope to make a few belts as well. I haven't done a lot of intricate carving or stamping yet, but have been playing around with basketweaves and the like. I found a pattern that I really like for the collar, but am not sure what type of stamp it is or where I might find one. I have a Tandy leather and the Springfield Leather Factory about an hour away. Also, I am having only marginal success beveling with a beveling tool. I think the one I have is too large and I can't seem to get a clean cut border like shown below. Are there other ways of making a nice straight bevel such as using a push beveler or a beveler attatchment on a swivel knife? I have attached a couple of photos below. I think both are the same stamp, but one has some additional stamping with a dimpler type of stamp. Thanks for the advice.
  6. I completed my first belt last night. I also cut out two other belts and dyed them with fiebings oil dye (Black and Dark Brown). I have a few questions, as this is my first time doing any of this. When dying, a lot of people say not to dye the flesh side of the belt, as it may rub off over time. but what if you use gum trag on the back, over the top of the dye? Will that help with the dye not bleeding? Also, I bought edge kote (black and brown). What is the difference between the edge kote and the normal dye? If i used the edge kote, would i put it on at the same time that I dye the rest of the belt? Then afterwards, bevel and burnish? or would i bevel and burnish before dying? The belt if completed was natural, and not dyed. I noticed that when I beveled and burnished the edges, some of the water soaked onto the surface of the belt, and darkened it slightly. should I save burnishing for after i apply whatever finish/conditioner i apply? or does it matter? Sorry for all of the questions. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  7. Too often when I do a swivel cut and then bevel I see a line where the cut goes deeper than the beveling. Or if I hammer the bevel hard to get to the depth of the cut then I'm left with a large gap that looks funny. What am I doing wrong?
  8. Beveling Kangaroo Lace

    A few months ago I started braiding some simple 4 strand kangaroo dog leashes.I found that i really like braiding and am wanting to increase my skill and improve my finished project. With my first projects I did not bevel the lace. I just bought a beveler from y knotlace. I have figured out how to run the lace through but am unsure whether i place the rough side down in the beveler and whether i bevel both sides. any help you can provide to this very novice braider is greatly appreciated.