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Found 31 results

  1. Boot top long wallet

    My cousin wanted a wallet made from the tops of an old pair of work boots. He's a junkman that goes by the name "Junkman" and goes through work boots like crazy. The outer is from the boots and the inner is 2/3oz veg tan.
  2. I thought it would be good to gather up a list of shoe making books with authors and ISBNs. We can do this as a running list of books. M. De Garsault's 1776 Art of the Shoemaker translated by D.A. Saguto ISBN 978-0-89672-650-5 The Art of Leather Inlay and Overlay by Lisa Sorrell ISBN 978-0-7643-5121-1 Bespoke Shoemaking by Tim Skyrme ISBN 0-9802937-0-7 The Make-it-Yourself Shoebook by Christine Lewis Clark no ISBN Make Your Own Shoes by Mary Wales Loomis. Book is available from her website. The Art of Boot and Shoemaking, A Practial Handbook by John B. Leno ISBN 978-1-57898-972-0 Handmade Shoes for Men by Konemann ISBN 3-89508-928-1 Pattern Cutting, Step by Step Patterns for Footwear Edited by Frank Jones ISBN 978-0-9554086-0-1 Last Designing & Making Manual (DVD sold separately) by George Koleff no ISBN Available from walrusshoe.com and Tim Skryme Shoes for Free People by David & Inger Runk ISBN 0-913300-44-6 Stepping Through Time, Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Time until 1800 by Olaf Goubitz Available from Oxbow Books Make Your Own Medieval Clothing, Shoes of the High and Late Middle Ages by Stefan von der Heide ISBN 978-3-938922-25-5 Shoes and Pattens by Frances McGrew and Margrethe De Meergaard ISBN 978-1-84383-238-6 DVDs The Art of Shoemaking featuring Glen Leasure available from healthyhandmakeshores.com Make Your Own Scandianavian Turnshoe with Jason Hovatter available from laughingcrowe.com
  3. New Boots

    Finally made myself a pair of boots to wear around when going out. I liked the look of my work boots so I made these to match but with a leather soul. They are made on a different last than my work boots. Their the same Water Buffalo as on my wok boots as well. Super soft and makes great boots. Still made so many mistakes but getting better. Still can't dance with the Landis 12 so I had to hand stitch the welt to the sole as you can tell. I'm one of those Deplorables so I had make a political statement. If you want to see the backs you will have to go to the ADULT section.
  4. Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
  5. Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
  6. Gusseted Tongue - Boots

    Hey y'all, I've been dinking around in the shop and working on my third pair of lasted boots. I am extremely curious about creating a "gusseted tongue" and attempted to on my last pair. I just made a pattern on the fly and upon stitching it to the quarters and stitching the tongue to the vamp, it came out looking very dorky, chunky and not at all aligned with the original plan, so to speak. Does anyone have any recommendations or experience in designing gusseted tongues? Any tips for a new guy? Methods for measuring and design?
  7. Firs attempt at these, next project are Mukluk's so was essential to get some practice. Made from Bovine,coated in Mink oil. Bison will be use for my next project. Added a second piece for the sole to add to durability. First test walk I found the heal needed to be thicker, gonna put some crepe rubber on their so it lasts, just have to shave the base so glue sticks. It was a learn as you go experience.
  8. Firs attempt at these, next project are Mukluk's so was essential to get some practice. Made from Bovine,coated in Mink oil. Bison will be use for my next project. Added a second piece for the sole to add to durability. First test walk I found the heal needed to be thicker, gonna put some crepe rubber on their so it lasts, just have to shave the base so glue sticks. It was a learn as you go experience.
  9. Firs attempt at these, next project are Mukluk's so was essential to get some practice. Made from Bovine,coated in Mink oil. Bison will be use for my next project. Added a second piece for the sole to add to durability. First test walk I found the heal needed to be thicker, gonna put some crepe rubber on their so it lasts, just have to shave the base so glue sticks. It was a learn as you go experience.
  10. Firs attempt at these, next project are Mukluk's so was essential to get some practice. Made from Bovine,coated in Mink oil. Bison will be use for my next project. Added a second piece for the sole to add to durability. First test walk I found the heal needed to be thicker, gonna put some crepe rubber on their so it lasts, just have to shave the base so glue sticks. It was a learn as you go experience.
  11. I work with Dacca Overseas Limited, one of the largest exporters of footwear in Bangladesh. We produce leather footwear, apparel and accessories working with the best manufacturers in the country. We are able to supply quality leather footwear starting from $20 (depending on the order quantity) and our minimum order quantity is 200 pairs per style. Visit our website for more information : https://www.daccaoverseas.com Email me at : khandker.dayef@daccaoverseas.com if you want to know more. Khandker Dayef Client Relationship Manager Dacca Overseas Limited
  12. DIY Line Finisher

    I'm looking into making (or buying, on the off chance that flying pigs are sighted) a line finisher. It's mainly for shoe/boot making. What are the essential features? Looks like a muslin and horsehair wheel would be really useful. Also, a burnishing wheel. A few sanding wheels. What about trimming/cutting wheels? I usually see cordwainers cutting soles by hand. And the tool used for marking stitches on a welt? Is that essential or just nice-to-have? Also, I see some cone-shaped wheels that look like vitrified grinding wheels. What are those for? A shelf seems important. And what other features would you want? What about belt sander wheels vs drums? Seems like the drums would be a lot simpler and the belts would be higher performance. I suspect there will be lots of "just buy one" and "you can pick one up at an auction for cheap" and "DIY is a false economy" thoughts. I don't mean to start a debate about DIY or acutioning or whatever. I'm just trying to understand the basic requirements for a line finisher.
  13. We are selling out our complete shoe repair and custom bootmaking shop in Poplar Bluff, Mo. We have two post machines that are like new, bought from Nick o Sew a couple years ago, one single needle, one double needle. There is also a Boss Tippman that is still just like new bought only a year ago. The rest of the shop equipment is older but in good working condition. There are 250 pairs of cowboy boot lasts and shoe lasts on which 7 toe styles can be made...some barely used. Full size runs with widths from AA to EEE or wider are represented in most styles. There are lots of supplies including thread, soling leather, rubber soling, heel bases and lifts, upper leathers and even some exotics. Would like to sell as a complete package. Buyer must come to the shop and arrange moving. Call 573-686-4545. No calls after 9pm central time please. I will not respond to texts. I can email detailed photos upon request. Asking price for complete shop package is $15,000. Let`s talk.
  14. Hello all! My first official post here, so please go easy on me! I've been reading up as much as I can here on the forums and elsewhere, but still have some questions as a new leatherworker! I am new to leatherworking, but have bootblacking experience and am familiar with leather overall. I recently got a pair of fantastic vintage Wesco boots, which are in incredible condition and have so much life still. They are a rich mahogany Redwood color with some darker staining and scuffs, so I'd love them to be a deeper chocolate brown. I'm unsure of which type of leather the boots are made of, but its a type of oil tanned I believe? I purchased Fiebings Deglazer, Pro Oil in Dark Brown, and Bag Kote. I also have Obenaufs which is my go-to for conditioning/waterproofing my leather. I'm planning on spending ALOT of time, to paint around each white stitching, to avoid getting dye on the white stitches as much as possible. From what I have researched here, the initial steps would be to: 1. Deglaze to remove finish and waxes. 2. Use Pro Oil dye over entire boot. 3. Buff off excess, and repeat dye/buffing until even coating. -------------------------------------------- Now, I've read here that some people use neatsfoot between dye and finish, to help seal in oil. However, I like to regularly condition and treat my boots after wearing. Would Bag-Kote prevent later conditioning? I've also read that some use Obenaufs/Sno-Seal as a finisher after dying. Is this enough to prevent oil transfer when wet or in contact with moisture? Or would Bag-Kote be a better lasting option? Thank you for the help!
  15. New Work Boots

    Finally finished my new work boots. Look a lot like my last pair.
  16. Hi all, Pretty new to boot making and looking for some advice on leather. I live in the Pacific Northwest, which if you don't know is a soggy muddy mess across a lot of the region for a lot of the year. This as you may imagine wreaks utter havoc on leather boots, or leather anything else that is subject to the weather. I am wondering if anyone has suggestions for types of leather or particular tans that might have a better chance than others of holding up to these sorts of conditions in the long run. I know I know, take proper care of them, don't wear them in the rain, expect them to die young, wear rubber boots, etc. etc. This question is about particular types of leather that might possibly stand up to a wet climate better than others. If the answer is none, well, so be it. But worth checking! Any thoughts or resources would surely be appreciated, thanks.
  17. Hi all, Pretty new to boot making and looking for some advice on leather. I live in the Pacific Northwest, which if you don't know is a soggy muddy mess across a lot of the region for a lot of the year. This as you may imagine wreaks utter havoc on leather boots, or leather anything else that is subject to the weather. I am wondering if anyone has suggestions for types of leather or particular tans that might have a better chance than others of holding up to these sorts of conditions in the long run. I know I know, take proper care of them, don't wear them in the rain, expect them to die young, wear rubber boots, etc. etc. This question is about particular types of leather that might possibly stand up to a wet climate better than others. If the answer is none, well, so be it. But worth checking! I will try this same question in the forums for types of leather also. Any thoughts or resources would surely be appreciated, thanks.
  18. I have these tools I bought at an auction a while back. I need help identifying what their use is. I do mainly saddle and harness work, so if they are for shoe/boot work, they are for sale or trade. I haven't found a use for them yet but Maybe if I knew what they were for, who knows ??? That awl haft is solid iron. Why would you need a haft made of iron ?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  19. Hi, I'm new to working with leather and about to start my first project. I'm trying to do some costing on a pair of shoes I want to make to figuire out what the exact input cost will be. This is what I have in mind (see below). How many pairs of shoes can one make on average with a piece of leather 1 meter by 1 meter (3.2 foot by 3.2 foot). Any guidance will be much appreciated
  20. Does anyone have a supplier for the longer shanked boot conchos? I want them for many projects I have going and so far have not been successful. Figured other on here might know!
  21. Hi, I’m new here and have never worked on leather before but am interested learning some dyeing skills. I’m planning on buying some tan brogue boots and dying them in a chocolate and aubergine colour scheme (see pictures). Any recommendations on which dye products to use and how to do this would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  22. Hello all, I have an interesting project restoring/rebuilding my faithful boots that have quested to the far side of the world and back. Not at all falling apart, but requiring improvements. I need help on choice of glue. My current issue is deciding how to repair what I can only refer to as the inner 'insole', made of thick, hard leather, through which the original nails went which go into the heel. Also, at the front, the current (replacement) rubber outer sole is stitched throught it. However, at the 'waist' point, just behind the stitching, this piece of inner structure has split in half, right where the sole flexes the most. The pictures may help you understand. I need to bond this piece back inside the boot fairly solidly. I've read about various glues, for ages, and have gone round in circles trying to decide the best glue(s) to basically 'bed' this piece back in, fill up the gaps and cracks, plus allow waterproofness/flexibility etc. Any advice from those in-the-know? --- For interest, I've attached another pic, of the heel, which is the first thing I've 'improved'. The boot is an old New Rock cowboy-style model, with the metal-effect nylon heel. I've had them over 10 years. A bad re-heeling meant I wore into the plastic heel, so have now replaced most of this fake heel with an aluminium block, and faced this with a PROPER stainless steel trim. The rubber grip is a military replacement heel, modified. The leather will be refinished (slight age crazing, nothing too bad, need to also find what best for that..), and they had cavalry-type extended tops, which I am rebuilding in proper boot leather (which I have sourced/selected successfully, hooray!) Cheers, Ed
  23. I bought these boots on ebay to make boot purses out of the tops. I sent them to a friend of mine to cut the tops off. When I got them I realized they FIT me and it was too late to make them full length boots again, so I came up with this last night so I can wear them. The one that's finished looks really good in person. Pics just don't do it justice. Comments welcome. Cheryl
  24. I have a guy that's asked me to make some boots for his girlfriend. I don't make boots. I'm a wallet and bag kind of guy. He has a picture of what he wants. It appears to be a custom pair that someone else has made. Anyway, if anyone is interested in this, I'd gladly pass your name and information along to him.
  25. Went to Magic in Vegas in February with new collection : You can see the whole collection here: counterego.com The website is back: leatherfx.com and the other one is: printingonleather.com We do digital printing onto leather - serving fashion, acsessories and upholstery industry worldwide. Here is a link to a little write-up about our company: http://read.uberflip.com/i/88855 on page 60 Here is another sample of our work: