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Found 25 results

  1. I am making a harness/blouse and I have a 1/4" strip of leather between two grooves as a border on the pieces. I wish to retain the pale look of the veg tan on this strip and dye the rest to a dark brown. What is the best way of doing this. If I need to post a picture or two to clarify please just ask.
  2. Dying and painting

    Hi there, l am trying to get this color ( see picture attached). I have tried mixing and diluting different stains but l have not been succeful. It's really a lighter brown as shown in the lmage attached. Any one that has worked with this color before? Please help. Thanks
  3. I'm currently gearing up for building a custom suit of veg-tan leather armor to go over another costume. However, I am new to the process of dyeing leather having previously only used paints for coloring projects. So I'm looking for advice on the what materials I should purchase and tips to use them best. The most important part is I need a dye and a sealent that will guarantee that there will be NO bleeding of the dye. The costume underneath is very expensive and difficult to clean and will likely be be rubbing against other equally expensive and difficult to clean costumes and many use white materials including faux fur. Thank you so much.
  4. Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated.
  5. Please Advise. New Leatherworker here. I have been using Feibings Dyes (non-pro) and reducing them in denatured alcohol. I've done small projects; so alcohol to dye ration is about 5:1 (typically 20cc alcohol to 5cc dye). After I let it sit for 24 hrs; I apply two coats of neatfoot oil (from a rag); and then a armor-all leather conditioner gel. My problem; the leather still remains fairly stiff; and flexing tends to "stretch" the color paler. Is this a problem with my dye technique; finishes; or leather? Any help would be appreciated.
  6. Hi, I I just entered the world of leather craft this week and I'm very excited about it! I'm already good with the swivel knife (just a cheap one from Tandy), I'm not very good with the stamps lol, but I will improve. Anyways, my first projects are going to be the checkbook covers from Tandy. My question is what dyes and finishes would be suitable for my first projects?
  7. I have recently been experimenting with using food coloring as a leather dye. It comes in 50ml bottles at any supermarket at a cost of around $1.25 ea. There are basic colors of pink, red, blue, green, yellow and black from which you can mix any color imaginable. It is water soluble and a few drops give strong color. I have found it to penetrate well and not rub off when dry. I advise prepping the leather with oxalic acid (1tspn in a cup of warm water) to give a clean start for an even finish. The dye can be painted on, rubbed on, dipped or sprayed. Strength of color is dependent on how many drops used.
  8. I bout the machine "like new" last March, and it still is...I used it only twice to practice stitching a belt, but then life kinda got hectic and never got around to using it again. Then, from Texas, I moved to Alabama and the machine has been stored this whole time...and yes, It is fully assembled, you can see it run and test it out before purchase. Ok, as for price....I have 3 options for you to consider... 1. $2700, my price of the machine INCLUDING my whole investment of merchandise for my attempted leather business (lol), which values at approx. $3500-$4000 at least..ALL purchased from Tandy Leather......THIS consists of NEW HUGE spools of thread*, NEW dyes and some used bottles of different color dyes, conditioner/gloss, NEW tools (multiple size punches,riveting kits, jewel setters, marker, hand carver, etc) , NEW conchos, jewels, eyelets, NEW belt buckles, LOTS of NEW UNUSED RAW leather belts, NEW belt loops AND tips, NEW packages of daubbers, 3/4" ALPHABET LETTER Leather punch set, guides, and maybe something I'm missing but whatever it is, its included! lol 2. $2500, price of the machine, spools of thread, and I will allow you to pick a few other things you might immediately need...To be discussed 3. $2250 machine only, and yes, the thread...I wouldn't want to sell you a machine without AT LEAST having that to get started *If I cannot find the thread at that moment, I WILL send it to you...Off hand, at this very moment, I can't recall where it is stored but I do have them Please consider these options and let me know how you feel, I do want to let it go, for someone else to use and benefit from so once you contact me, we can talk and see what will better accommodate each other because I have other business venture plans as well love... thank you for your time! Hope to speak with you soon!!! #GodBless
  9. BRAND NEW ACCESSORIES! Hi love! Are you looking for leather belts? accessories? tools to make belts and other leatherwork with? I invested in leatherwork while located in TX and moved to Alabama sooooo, obviously a huge change in market potential! I decided to just let it go and sell it to start a more passionate venture
  10. Hey guys, Recently I've had a request from a friend to make him a dog collar and a leash for his wedding,for his dog to bring them the wedding rings :D I couldn't find white leather yet, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips to paint natural veg tanned leather white, whith like an acrylic paint, a spray, and then apply some lacker to avoid smudging and cracking. I'd aprreciate any tips!! Thank you, Lourenço
  11. Air Brushing/spraying Top Coats

    I have never sprayed finishing coats on my work but, have been having problems lately with streaking. Some of you have suggested spraying finishing coats on. I have been given a small compressor and am wondering if I can use an airbrush to apply lacquer/ finish to my work. If so, what airbrush brand and size should I purchase. Do I also need to filter lacquer before putting it in the airbrush? Please help someone! Leather Maid (Jamie) Brisbane Australia
  12. My name Chris and I am a compulsive hobbyist. I play guitar, mandolin, ukulele, harmonica, and bang a banjo when feeling brave. I also make beer and other alcoholic beverages on a regular basis. I shave with an old fashioned safety razor (double edge) and a straight razor and lather with a badger hair brush. To add my list of manly hobbies, I decided to start leather working to appeal to my need to create. The itch happens when I look at something and say "I can do that!" I have bought a few tools to get started and have run into many learning curve problems that I can't seem to find the answers to after trolling the forums and YouTube videos. I have noticed after dyeing my cheap little thin pieces of vegtan from the local big hobby store that the material is now stiff as a board and curling on the edges...that doesn't help make a nice wallet. What are the proper steps to dyeing a piece of leather that doesn't make it feel like a piece of jerky when it is all said and done? I have been rubbing olive oil on these pieces like crazy to no effect.....but I have soft hands now. Also, I am not sure but it seems to me that I have been losing some size after dyeing (I read about the removal of moisture after dyeing) and can understand that. Should I be accounting for a certain amount of shrinkage? Like a 1/4 of an inch or something? I would like to make some patterns to repeat my work and I am not sure if this something that people take into account for dyeing (and stitching). Having fun but getting frustrated with what I don't know....if there is something that I should be reading to answer these questions, please let me know. I have been digging but not finding the right information. Thanks for any help!
  13. Question from a newbie. I bought a nice trimmed double shoulder leather from Tandy recently for holsters and belts. Great price, but I almost did not buy it because it had been laid on an oiled product for a few days while moving stock and consequently has a rather large oil streak that actually penetrates the leather. The question: will this veg tan accept dye to hide the oil stain or is it a lost cause? I use Feibings Professional oil dyes. Should I return the leather to Tandy and pay twice the price for another piece, or is this one o.k.? If I test dye a piece of the leather I cannot return it.
  14. Hello, I have a dilemma. I am looking for a good brown to dark brown dye. I used fiebings pro oil dyes in the past with good results, but I do not like how toxic they are, and won't be using them. I looked into Tandy's Eco-Flo dyes, and in doing research, I found a leatherworker.net thread with a bunch of people talking about how they had ruined projects by the dye turning a greenish color, and I don't want to chance that. I actually spent a lot of time and effort brewing a batch of black walnut dye a few weeks ago, and I am not at all happy with the results. It takes WAY too many applications to get to dark brown, and WAY too much time (oiling, then waiting for it to dry, applying the dye, and waiting for it to dry, repeat). I have tried multiple ways of dying the leather with the black walnut dye, only to get disappointing results. Long story short, I would like a brown/dark brown low VOC leather dye that is not fiebings pro oil dye, or tandy Eco-Flo. Any suggestions? Thanks! Zayne
  15. Smaller Leather Shop For Sale

    I have a Typical Type: GC6505 industrial cylinder post sewing machine , 10 or so different leathers, some tools, hardware, and other miscellaneous items. Ask me for more details. $1850 or best offer
  16. Hello all, I have been using fiebings pro oil dye on all of my dyed projects. I do like the way that it sits in the leather, but I am the type of person that would much rather use a more natural alternative when it comes to most methods. I have heard about using cold black coffee to darken leather, as well as multiple light coats of extra virgin olive oil left out in the sun. I am more keen to these types of methods. I was wondering if anyone knows of, or has had any experience with, making their own plant based leather dyes? I have heard of people using organic material such as: onions blueberries cedar walnut husks alder blackberries elderberries fern fronds etc... I do have access to these items, but I am unsure of the process in which to get the pigment out of the item, as well as applying the dye, and storage. Edit: Do you think this method would work for dying leather? http://pioneerthinking.com/crafts/natural-dyes Thanks! Zayne
  17. I am using Tandy Pro Waterstain for some of my products. I am having some problems with streaking and swirling when I apply my finish. I am using Tandy Pro Cream Finish. My black products turn out fine without any streaking. What is going wrong? Pat 1042 Leather Works
  18. I have searched the forums but havent found any good answers. I like oil dye, as I haven't had any problems with it, and I havent tried any water/alcohol based dyes yet. I use cut resolene as a finish, and I heard people have had issues with water/alcohol based dyes coming off when using it. Anyways, I would like to create my own custom colors of dye, whether that requires making dyes from scratch or mixing two existing dyes. I am looking to make colors like indigo/navy, maroon/dark red, and dark green. What is the best way to achieve this? I use feibings pro oil dye now, but I am completely open to suggestions. Thanks Zayne
  19. The title is pretty self explanitory. I am wondering how you darken natural leather without the use of dyes or stains. I have a dark brown dye. But to get an even coat without an air brush requires multiple coats and it darkens it a ton. How would I get a light brown color without dying or staining? I would prefer something that started out very light, maybe 2 or 3 shades darker than natural, and got darker with multiple applications. Thanks Zayne
  20. I have a 2 ton manual arbor press and I wonder if I would be able to nicely cut 3-4 oz (1-1.5 mm) leather, using a steel rule cutting die or solid die. I would appreciate any input. Thanks, Nando
  21. Greetings, The search tool on this forum has proven to be an invaluable resource for me as I prepare to jump into leatherworking. Thank you all for the time and sharing of knowledge. I am looking to purchase dyes and finishes for my first round of leathercraft projects. I will be making a wallet to start, using 3/4oz veg tanned leather. I would like some of the quirks/imperfections in the leather to show through the final product; using woodworking as a comparison, I want the look of a deep stain as opposed to multiple coats of paint. Looking at the Feibings line, do you recommend I purchase Regular Dye or Oil Dye? What sort of finish do you recommend for wallets? Does the type of dye determine the type of finish? When are conditioners or a product like Bick-4 used? Cheers!
  22. I made some of this for the first time the other day. Should the vinegroon mixture be filtered until there is only the clear liquid remaining? Baking soda is the neutralizer of the odor correct?. This stuff looks as if it is great for dyeing I tried a new belt dyed with it. So far so good. It is a piece of 10-12 oz. veg tan.
  23. Hi all, i'm starting in leather, i love many works from here and others sites, this is initially just for hobbie, but who knows !! ?? i bought some tools, dyes, edge kotes, etc this is my very first try for a belt (thinking in christmas) I missed some details in the edge near the buckle my problems came with the dyes, when i applied they look good, but is too tight, when i fold for both sides, get some wrinkles and the leather dyed get cracks how can i fix that? maybe with a deeper dying process? but dying i use fiebings products and applied with wool daubers Cheers
  24. Just finished(?) my first batch of Vinegaroon, I am curious if I've done it right 1) It really isn't Black more a clear gray liquid, 2) after almost 3 weeks there was steel wool left in jug. 3) I strained it through coffee filters but it looks like I may need to do it again?? Thanks so much for you all of your help.
  25. I have been out of leather carving for about 12 years and so I am used to the old spirit dyes. I just started to get back into carving again and now I have to use water based dyes because I am based in California for the winter. I am having so many problems with this new dye. I just doesn't cover like the old stuff and several of my latest carvings are ruined from blotching dying. Are there any suggestions out there? I was thinking of trying wood stain as a dye because it has spirit base to it and if it works it is a lot cheaper to buy than what is sold leather supply places, like T__dy. Has anyone tried useing wood stain on leather?