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Found 32 results

  1. Hello, I posted a similar topic a few years ago and I'm hoping to re-ignite the subject. I've been trying different methods over the years and I still have not found a clear-cut (or even close) method of burnishing thinner (i'm using 4/5 oz) natural leather without the edges being darkened too much and without making a mess of the face of the piece (or the flesh side, for that matter). I really like the look of completely untouched natural leather, so I don't want to put any sort of conditioner/sheen on the face as they all darken the leather at least a shade. I want to keep the natural leather as white/pink as possible with minimal water/paste mess from burnishing. I'm also having somewhat of an issue with the flesh edge of the leather folding over some with the thinner leather. I might be burnishing too quickly after wetting the edge, I don't know. I am using a pro edge burnisher in my drill press which works very well. Methods I've tried: - Just water This solves the edge darkening problem and also solves the mess problem when applied extremely carefully with a dauber or your finger. However, it doesn't give a lasting extra slick finish. - Just liquid Saddle soap This gives a slick finish, but darkens the leather edge a lot and also seems to soak into the leather more, which means messy and uneven looking edges. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water This darkens the edge a bit less (still more than i'd like) and soaks in a bit less, but isn't as slick as just straight up liquid saddle soap. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water, then beeswax, then canvas burnishing. Creates a slick edge, but is very hard to keep clean, and darkens the edge quite a bit. - Gum Tragacanth Creates a good slick edge (one coat is good, two coats is better), but is really really hard to keep clean. Doesn't darken the edge as much as the straight liquid saddle soap, but still darker than I like. One thing I did discover recently is that applying gum trag to the edge with the edge of a toothpick works well for keeping it clean, but is very tedious. Should I maybe burnish the edge with just water first before burnishing with gum trag? would that help keep the trag from seeping onto the face? I guess I'm just hoping that some magician out there has come up with a magical method/product that is easy to apply/won't make a mess/won't darken the edge too much. Haha. I'm also having a hard time with applying beeswax as its hardness makes it difficult to apply a sufficient amount of wax to the edge. I was considering making a mixture of beeswax, olive oil, and eucalyptus oil to stave off mould. I've heard of a beeswax/neatsfoot solution, but would prefer to use olive oil in its place. Does anyone have any experience with a wax/olive oil blend? I prefer not to use any paraffin. Thanks again, Zayne
  2. First of all, a great hello to everyone from Slovenia! I'm a very new to the leather, although I had wish to sew it by hand for a long time before. So I came as far as trying to sew the first axe sheath for a start. I've managed to finish it as far as it comes to the edges. Here are 2 pictures, which shows my current state. I'm using 5/6 oz. veg tan leather, which is treated with several coats of Fiebing's Pro Dye (brown) and colorless Fiebing's Resolene. I'm stuck here, because I don't know how to properly finish the edges, neither would know, what the proper edge finish is. As far as I've managed to read about the leather, I came to the fact, that Fiebing's Edge Kote is one of worst possible finishes on leather sheats and looks very amateur. So I've ordered Eco-Flo's Gum Tragacanth for finishing edges, but I'm still not sure about it. Am I supposed to dye the edges before I use Gum Tragacanth? Are the finishes on picture below proper edge finishes or are there any other possibilities to look properly? (the left one) And if so, how am I possible to reach them?
  3. Hello. I have a question. Recently upon diving on ebay I found these tools with what would be for me a regular edge crease that I'm used to on one end and on the other end there is a flat side which is marked a flat edge crease, it looks nice... but my question is: Is it used only for an aesthetic/decorating reason I can imagine for a belt or a watch strap or so, or does it have a functional part such as for sewing or other thing? Thank you for taking your time to answer. The link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/5kind-Leather-Craft-Double-Ended-Single-Dual-Edge-Marking-Decorate-Creaser-Tool/111983104512?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=410923431202&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 and an other link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Craft-Stainless-Steel-Edge-Marking-Decorate-creaser-creasing-ebony-Tool/222488845035?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=521337234605&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
  4. Hello everyone, two years ago i lost my mom and she left me her bag. A bag that's in optimal condition and had 10 years of usage without a hitch. But ten years is ten years and the edges started cracking slightly. It was slight but iIwanted to stop it from going any further, so iIook it to a repair shop that substituted the hole edge on the handle as you can see from the pictures. I went to pick it up and the paint was all cracked iIdidn't even bother to leave iIshed them to redo it because it was in no condition. They applied a second layer that when iIpicked up cracked again on the hole. I asked if iIleft it there they could fix it they said they'd just apply more paint and assured me it would last more than the original edge (which lasted ten years mind you). I took the bag and left. Obviously parts of the paint started falling off. So here iIm desperate to somehow repair my bag and return it to its former glory and give it a few more years of usage and keep a part of my mom with me. If tthere's anyone out there that can help me iIold really appreciate it. pictures of the bag
  5. Edge slickers

    One of our spaniels took a liking to my edge slicker, I had always thought it was a little on the small side especially as I have some restricted movement in my right hand. Anyway I decided to make my own by chance I was in my local Axminster tool store and asked the assistant if he knew of a local wood turner who might be able to make one for me. He told me that they have a demonstration day on Tuesdays and they would turn one for me FOC yes free. I ordered some oak from a timber merchant and worked out that the best thickness for my hand was 28 mm looking at the items I have made I decided to have multiple grooves of varying thicknesses. I had to buy a 1.8 m piece of timber and on arrival spoke to the man doing the demonstration he basically offered to make me as many as I wanted. I asked him to make three using one third of the wood I gave him the rest. Picture one shows what is left of the original with the larger replacement the inner part is rounded to give well rounded edges 20170621_105856[1] by my0771, on Flickr Picture two is the same style but with flat bottoms for square edges it also has an extra groove which was an error but not the end of the world. 20170621_105837[1] by my0771, on Flickr The final example has much less of a taper at the end to enable me to grip it with my damaged hand 20170621_105812[1] by my0771, on Flickr I would have been happy to pay someone to make them for me as they are so easy to use if anyone is interested they are 200 mm long and 28mm in diameter I chose grooves that suited the sizes of leather that I use the most.
  6. Hi everyone, I've been poring over the forum threads learning all I can about finishing edges - burnishing and all - I want to do Bob Park's method, but in all my experiences I've run into a problem when it comes to using edge paints: how do you paint JUST the edge and not have any of the paint spill on to the front or back of the leather? I've tried a paint brush, dauber, q-tip, sponge - they almost always result in some paint on the front and back instead of only on the edge - and I see Bob (and everyone else who knows how to do this) has amazing contrasting edges with not a drop of colour on the front or back. So - what's the secret? I was looking at one of those electric edging tools - will that help? I work mainly in oil tanned 4-6oz and I'd like to have my edges neatly finished so they don't fray and fold. Thanks!
  7. Hi! I really like the way this company does the edges on their products (keeping the bevel) and I'm wondering how to achieve the same edge finish without burnishing to a round edge like most other leather products? (https://alstadgoods.com/products/slim-jim-whiskey)
  8. I have a project the I lined with pig skin, I did a test piece and the normal way I finish a project it with dye. the problem with pig skin is that sucks the dye up like a sponge. How do I finish this edge? with edge paint? do I try to burnish it?
  9. Gluing canvas to wooden dowel?

    Hey all, I have a dumb question. I am trying to get a better burnished edge, I think what I need is to glue some canvas to one of my wooden burnishers for a dremel and use that, rather than doing it by hand. Can any of you tell me what kind of glue to use? and should I overlap the canvas so there are no gaps or just glue it seem-to-seem? Right now all I have is the green weldwood contact cement, some wood glue, and some of that white water based elmers glue. Thanks! Zayne Thanks!
  10. The Bleeding Edge

    The Edge. The business end of a knife or cutting tool. The perfect edge occurs at the intersection of two planes, which are the sides of the knife that intersect each other; the perfect edge formed by the two planes would a one dimensional line of zero radius. This is just not attainable, because the planes are made of something whose molecule has a radius, and where they intersect an edge is formed by at least a single molecule that has a radius. In practical terms, this ain't a going to happen. Maybe in a lab, maybe. But there is a downside, it is a fragile edge that won't hold up and will round over to the point that it is less sharp but more durable. That is the scientific claptrap. Our best edge is going to be rounded to the point that you and I can see it with a loupe. I have four loupes, a 5x, a 10x, a 20x, and a 30x, and some comparator scopes that go way beyond that. If I take a brand new Irwin Utility knife blade out of the box and look at the edge under 5x, I can see the edge. At 10x the edge is obvious, and a 30x it looks like a landing strip. Quality scalpels are somewhat better, but still a highway at 30x. Quality of the plane grinds (facets, bevels) and polish are an important in attaining a small radius, but included angle of the edge (plane 1 degrees from centerline + plane 2 degrees from centerline) is as important a factor. The size of the radius will increase with the size of the included angle. Unfortunately, the durability (how much strength or metal is behind the edge) decreases with the decrease in included angle. We are always fighting the metal to get the best balance between edge radius and durability. Utility knives, razors, scalpel,s and anything of that ilk sacrifice durability for sharpness. Sharpen often or put in a new disposable blade. So edge angles are going to be minimal, but these things will really cut; for a while. So what is the proper angle for a knife edge? I feel a range of 20° to 50° is about right, but covers a lot of territory. I guess some examples might be appropriate. Bench Knife or skiver -- 20° to 25°, maybe even 30° Shoe Utility Knife -- 25° to 30° Pocket Knife -- 25° to 30° Kitchen Knife -- 25° to 35° Head Knife -- 20° to 25° Wood Chisel -- 25° to 35° depending on use Planer Blade -- 40° Axe -- 40° to 50° Lawnmower Blade -- 90° or a bit less Art
  11. Hi! I have read a lot about edge burnishing but none of it looks like this. It almost looks like it has a wax type coating and i see this a lot on designer bags and overall bags at the stores. How is the edge done like this? It looks so even! Thank you so much!
  12. Hello Leatherworkers , I managed to burnish the edge quite good with dye+ glycerin then dye and wax then canvas wheel . My question is , how long does the burnished edge last ? because when i bend it tightly the edge cracked , so i figured out the the burnishing will not work on edge of a notebook cover or passport holder were it bends . What about the edge coat that turns out to look like plastic/rubber . how long does it last ? Thanks
  13. I have recently made my own wax for edge finishing 50/50 Beeswax and paraffin, I have also seen proprietary blended waxes for sale with special oils. Does anyone want to share info on different oils and wax people have used in there wax blends (besides bees and paraffin) the ratios and benefits . I have seen candelilla wax used There is probably a thread for this already...if so Link it
  14. I have 9 bottles of Tandy-Fenice leather edge paint for sale - ideally to a fellow leatherworker in Europe, as I am located in Brussels, Belgium. The 9 colors I have are: Navy Blue, Green, Yellow, Red, Neutral (clearcoat, basically), White, Black, Dark Brown, and Light Brown. I bought these just a couple of months ago in October and November from Rickert Werkzeuge where they sell for €29.95 each. In this photo album, you'll see the paints themselves, and I am also including the two projects I completed with these paints - a phone case with orange edges and a black stingray handbag. Other than a tablespoon of the yellow and red and about 20% of the black, the rest of the paints were not used any more than on a sample piece. I am selling them because I am moving back to the US (didn't know that when I bought them all!), and filling my suitcase with these 9 bottles of leather edge paint isn't really an option! I'm not expecting to get back what I paid for them (which is/was ~€300), so if you're interested, just make an offer and let me know your location to calculate the shipping costs! Thank you! - RF
  15. Edge Finishing Practice

    Hello guys! In this post i'd like to show you my attempt on edge finishing, using a local edge paint for this and quite love the result, It comes quite thick from the bottle so i added water to it since its water based, to thin the paint, i prefer thin so its easier for me to apply to the edges. Did quite some layering and sanding on this, and finished by polishing a cloth to the edges. Hope you guys like it. Thanks a lot for viewing! Faridz.
  16. Brand New Scharffix 2000 Leather Paring Device For Sale. Sensible Offers Considered Long story short, UPS delivered this late and I had to forfeit the commission for which it was purchased. Outside of this project, I do not have a use for this tool. Unfortunately, the company I bought it from want to charge me $80 to return the product, and so before doing so, I thought I would offer it for sale here. This tool has never been used, and comes in its original box, with instructions, spare blades, and adjustment wrench. Scharffix tools are made in Germany and as such are of very high quality. I was very impressed with how well made it is! For those of you who aren't familiar with this tool, Schmedt, the makers of the tool, have a video here. Skip to 1.26 to see this tool in action. I'm understandably looking to recoup as much as my original expenditure as possible and will consider sensible offers. Please let me know if you would like any further details or images. Nick
  17. Edge Finishing Soft Leather

    Apologies all if this has been covered already, but I was wondering whether anyone has experience finishing soft edges? I have some 2mm tumbled calf, which I would like to burnish/finish properly. Clearly traditional methods are failing me (specifically the Japanese method of sealing with Funori, and the gum trag/burnishing method). Has anyone done this? I am looking for a firmer and shiny edge without any visible fibre structure. Maybe glazing? Thanks!
  18. Hi guys, first of all a happy new year to all of you! I whish you al the best in private as for your leatherwork! But as I visited my father for these days, I just recognized the edges of a belt I made for him like half a year ago, especially the edges. Back then they were really nice and smooth. I used some edge kote, burnished it, applied some bees wax and, if I remember right i used some saddle soap to polish it again. But now the edges look quite worn out, fuzzy and I really would like to prevent that in any way... But I don't know where to improve. I know that some of you use some paraffin on the edge as fins coat, but i doubt that this would fix the problem.... I ask because i am stitching another belt right now for a friend and I'd really like to do it better this time... Any ideas, guesses or tips? I'd really (!) appreciate them! Thank you Not the best picture I know, but it is the best my mobile phone creates at the time ... Hope it helps to understand/see the problem.
  19. What Is This Tool Called?

    Can anyone tell me what this tool is called? I've looked around different online leather tool shops and can't seem to find it. It would be easier if I knew what it was officially called. I like the edge it produces, I just don't know what to call it. Beveler, creaser and "magic edge tool" don't seem to show this tool in any google search. Thanks in advance. Dan
  20. Best Edge Beveler? Best Method?

    I was just wondering what everyones favorite edge bevelers are, and also what you use for thinner leather (3/4 or 4/5 oz). I have used the tandy edge beveler #2 as thats the smallest size it comes in, keen edge beveler which I rarely use, and their new craftool pro classic edger size #00 and fine edger. I use the #2 edge beveler the most, as it seems to cut smother and is a lot easier to control than the new pro classic edgers. I got the new #00 for thinner leather, but I hate the design, it is a lot harder to keep it at a consistent angle, and seems to cut about as much off as the #2 edge beveler. I wish Tandy sold their edge beveler smaller than a #2, as that would probably work better with thinner leather. The #2 has a really hard time with 4/5 oz and smaller. I can use the #2 on 4/5 oz if i put another piece of leather underneath, but it cuts off too much of the edge, and by the time I go to burnish, the edge is too thin and ends up folding over, and looking like garbage. Ideally, I would want to cut off as little as possible, so the edge isn't extremely round, more flat. But when I have tried that, the edge still folds over slightly on front and back, and doesn't look good. Does anyone have a method for getting a more flat (slightly rounded) edge, without the leather folding over? I am open to using another brand beveler, I would just like to hear everyones favorites first! Thanks! Zayne
  21. Hi all, I am having issues getting a nice clean burnish on natural (un-dyed) veg tan. This is my process: I sand with 80 grit to make edges even and square if necessary. Sand edges with medium and then fine. Trim the edges with a tandy edge beveler. Wet the edges with small wool dauber as neatly as I can. Burnish with a wooden hand burnisher (picture below, I wonder if the burnisher I am using isn't the best). Then I add beeswax to the edge, and burnish again with the same wooden burnisher. My problem is, I am not getting a very clean edge. After I put water on the edge and do the first burnish, water leaks or is pushed onto the face of the leather, away from the edge, either by the burnishing, or just by the water itself. It makes the face look messy and the edge not like like a straight edge. This would be easy to hide if I were to dye the leather before my final burnish, but it looks really messy on natural leather, and honestly, I would like to just have a solid method that looks good regardless if I dye or not. I have read hidepounders tutorial on finishing edges, but I don't really want to use the paste or paraffin, I am trying to keep it to beeswax/water, or any other natural product. Thanks!
  22. Hi there! I'm having a little trouble figuring out how the layers of lambskin leather in the photos have natural-looking raw and asymmetrical, distressed-looking edges. I can only assume that the designer only used the edges of the hides for that natural, jagged look. On the other hand, if you were to "cut out your own" jagged edge, it would look silly and very obvious, so that is an automatic no. I couldn't find any techniques online on how to create these organic-looking distressed edges by hand... I thought about a dremel but I feel like it may not give the same successful effect as it would on something like denim. Then, I heard of burning/singing the lambskin edges. I like this idea and it sounds like it will work, but haven't tried yet. Although, the leather in the photos doesn't look singed, and I don't exactly want charred edges, either. You can also tell how both photos have long, stringy-looking tattered leather sections. I would THINK that is done by a dremel but again, don't know if feasible. ANY tips on how to achieve or experiement with this effect would be super appreciated! Seems so easy but it's not! :-P Thank you!!
  23. Dog Collars, Finishing Edges.

    I have been using gum trag to finish the edges on all my other products, and it works alright. I was considering trying out fiebings saddle soap instead, to see how it works, but I recently heard that some animals might be allergic to glycerine, and I will be making some dog collars. So, does fiebings saddle soap have glycerine in it? Is it true that some animals might be allergic to it? If anyone has had any experiences with this, that would be very helpful. Also, as always, if there are any better/safer methods, feel free to advise! Thanks Zayne
  24. Hello, First time of posting here for ages, but when last I visited I was always impressed by how helpful this group was! I'm making a leather case for my small medieval harp, to be carried backpack style. I realise veg-tanned leather is unlikely to be waterproof, but aim to make it at least shower resistant. I'm planning on normal style seams rathet than butt-jointed edges, for more strength, but can't decide whether it's better to turn the seam inwards or outwards to be more weatherproof. Inwards makes more of a channel for water to seep in if my stitching isn't tight, outwards leaves the edge showing, which may be more water-absorbent. Any advice welcome, please. I'll also welcome comments on favourite proofings/dressings which aren't horribly greasy, as it'll be worn when I have modern clothes too, while retaining a natural sort of look suitable for the historical appearance. Thanks, Richard.
  25. Commercial Edging

    Hi everyone. I have been using a modified Bob Park technique for edge treatment and it works very well, so thanks Bob for all the fine posts. But I have noticed commercial edging is no longer in that style, even the highest-priced luxury brands. All the recent examples I could find were a very even hard rubberized material that appeared to be bonded to the leather. Does anyone know what is involved in creating such an edge - perhaps a specialized machine?