Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'edging'.
Found 4 results
Hello Everyone, I know this has been asked before but I could only find burnishing veg tan edges here in the search bar. I am using chromexcel and tried using Fiebing's Acrylic Dye, but hated it. So now I'm back to square one, and instead sanded the edges down -> applied water -> heated the edge with a jerry rigged tool I made up (gets up to about 350-450 Farenheit) -> apply beeswax -> heat again -> beeswax -> heat second time. My question is, will the beeswax eventually fail, and will the burnish come apart in a few years, or does this technique actually last a very long time? I'm making nato watch straps and obviously can't test each method for 10 years, I want your input and years of experience if you would be so kind! Thank you for your time and thoughts. PS. The chromexcel is roughly 2-3 oz. EDIT: Gum Trag, thoughts, process of putting on tanned leather such as chromexcel?
I recently my wife asked me to make a wedding guestbook for my daughter's wedding. She didn't give me much lead time so I pushed some things a little hard. It is 5/6 oz veg tan except for pockets in front cover that is 3 oz veg tan that was quite soft which caused me some problems in stitching and edging. It is dyed Fiebrings British Tan. I had to re glue the edge of the 3 oz leather after stitching as it pulled up in some spots I think I got it down pretty good. The tooling on the back is not quite symmetrical. I'm still saddle stitching everything. Let me know what you think. Here are a couple more photos.
TheGarrett posted a topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.Hey guys Shop Gnome here, Mojo George and I had an idea. Felt tip "refillable" pens from the local art supply company. Ad some dye and PRESTO! edging. (this is my first attempt at using this so more info when I get it.) Has any else tried these things? If so thoughts? https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHRHhPd2lNSDlCQ00/view?usp=sharing Simple veg tan scrap. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHYkZoa3pORkUxU3M/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHUURUNGRfSzFFSms/view?usp=sharing Quick rub with the pen. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHbFpBbXMyZ1NoRzA/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8OjhCpucdcHN3ZqVlFHRVE3OUk/view?usp=sharing Of course this is USMC Black one of my favorite colors. After the 45 minutes of buffing and more buffing we will see how it comes out. Let me know what you guys think. Shop Gnome Out!
Hey there, I've been getting into leather belt making and am loving it! I've read up a lot on this site on dying and edging and learned a bunch, thanks everyone! I have still have a couple of questions, 1. I've been using feibings edge kote on my belts because sometimes I like having a black edge to them. I've noticed that where there is friction on the edge of the belt from the buckle the edge kote will start to creep up on the face of the belt itself. I've have beveled the edges and slicked them after applying the edge kote, is this correct? How can the bleed be stopped? 2. I like to dye my belts different colors than usual from what i've seen on these boards, blues, reds, greens and what have you. What are some good ways to buff the dye so that bleeding doen't occur if I want a matt finish? Is hand buffing the only option? This is my first post so I am sorry if I've posted this in the wrong section or have missed where this info already is. Thank you in advance for your help!