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Found 24 results

  1. Need help with belt embossing

    My wife and I have a workshop in Chatsworth, California (San Fernando Valley). We need to emboss a design on roughly 30 belts. The design is not necessarily important, but we were thinking something like a Celtic interlace design. (Preferably not a traditional/floral design though) We have the Tandy leather roll embossing machine, but the only wheel we have for it is the traditional one. What I'm asking for is someone in the Southern California area that can help us out with either: A) more wheels that work on the Tandy machine that they would be willing to let us rent or borrow. We would even be willing to buy a wheel but we are tapped right now having bought all this material for this job that we need to turn around this week. Would be willing to purchase A wheel I f payment could be differed or we could work out some kind of arrangement. B- someone with a shop nearby that would be willing to let us come over and rent time on their embossing machine so we can run the straps. I realize this probably seems like asking a lot considering I've hardly posted here on the forum at all so none of you out there really know us. My wife and I own a company called Legendary Costume Works. We have a website, Etsy store and a Facebook page and have been around for 10 years now. We are just in a bind at the moment and looking for a little help. Any help or suggestions anyone can offer are greatly appreciated. Thank you all so much for your time! Feel free to answer back here or you can contact me at 805-340-2652 Thank you all! – Brayton
  2. By the end of the week I am expecting to receive the following in the post: A cheap (Chinese made, with probable Japanese influence) beginner's sett of leather working tools from Ebay A remnant/pieces pack of leather, needles, and thread from The Identity Store A copy of "The Leatherworking Handbook" by Valerie Michael from Amazon Yet to acquire from the local chain DIY store (probably nearer the time, or on Sunday if it slips my mind before then which is likely to happen) are: wood and fixings to make a cheap stitching pony Evo-Stik Time Bond contact adhesive an Oilstone (or similar) for inevitable initial sharpening of previously mentioned tools as well as general upkeep later on miscellaneous things that catch my eye which may be helpful such as clamps, sandpaper, straight edge etc Other things yet to be appropriated into my "kit": worksurface stuff (cutting mat, poly board, granite (or similar)) decent desk lamp as most of my work will be completed in the late evening/small hours after finishing the late shift at "the day job" and goodness knows my eyes will need all the help they can get edge slicking substance graph/grid paper for when I feel up to making my own patterns bone folder type tool stitching awl Things I already have, yet to be consolidated together: poly mallet basic geometry set (ruler, square, compases etc) pencils large toolbox for storage stack of "craft" drawers for storage non-marring spudger set which I'm sure will come in handy for poking/prodding in crevices metal bodied Utility knife (and blades) Extra Virgin Olive Oil in lieu of more specialist finishes tonnes of old clothes for rags Things I will probably get at a later date once I get a feel for everything (this does not include ad hoc replacement/upgrading of any of the above when needed): butcher's block style work station (as I'll mostly be working at my 10yr old pine desk in my bedroom initially, maybe out in the shed weather permitting) relevant dyes, treatments, etc and relevant applicators basic carving tools (I do not plan on getting into this much but I guess it's always handy to be able pop a pretty border on something special) ___ I know the cost of starting a new hobby from scratch is always going to be a major consideration, but it seems leathercraft is even more so. Yes I know it's no good moaning to other people who have all been there/done that, but starting out on a shoe string is still likely to cost me upwards of £100 ($125 for you colonials ). Being the sort of person I am, often doing things on a whim, and generally cautious with cash, I do not want to go to the lengths that some do and get The Works in terms of equipment and materials to start with. I don't want to spend a small fortune on something if I don't end up getting decently into it to justify the cost. That said, it seems the general advice in terms of initial outlay is "get the best you can afford" and that's what I'm doing I suppose. I guess there are those out there who have started out with much less, and I have no need nor reason trying to justify what I'm doing. I guess in a way I'm secretly hoping that I get sufficiently good enough at the whole "leather thing" that in the long run I can start going to fairs, events, do made-to-order and the like, and be able to become (at least partially) self employed. But that's definitely a long way off. I think for me leathercraft will always be a matter of being on a shoestring, at least in the sense of trying to get the best from the least. I've always been enthralled by the way craftsmen of all disciplines in years gone-by have come up with ingenious solutions which even centuries or millennia haven't changed much, and as much as possible I want to keep what I do "low-tech": drawing up templates by hand rather than using PC software, using as traditional methods and tools as possible, and if possible trying to be authentic in style/process with any historical based pieces I produce. I (like to think) I am fairly good at improvising, and this will also keep costs down. Who needs a £40 edge slicker when a double-pronged piece of deer antler (free if you know where/when to look) will do? Or expensive black dyes if you can master the likes of vinegaroon and lampblack?
  3. Hot Foil Press

    Hot foil press for sale $200 ONO. In full working order, comes with honeycomb base and some extras. It weighs around 100KG and would need 2 people to move this.There is also a box of foil and 2 sets of Ugly type to go with it. Located Western Sydney, Greystanes.
  4. I have a Tandy 32418-00 Imprinting Machine with a lot of attachments. Before I put it on Ebay, I would like to offer it up here. What would be a fair price?
  5. bunkhouse tools experiences

    hi does anybody has any experiences with bunkhouse tools embossing wheels or embossing molds?
  6. Military patch

    From the album Custom stamps & maker's marks

    3x2,5cm Military patch Link to the stamp
  7. 3x3 Tree of life

    From the album Custom stamps & maker's marks

    3x3cm Tree of LIfe custom stamp Link to stamp
  8. Embossing foam

    Is there something rather than foam that people use to stretch the embossing leather you put over the plugs? Something you can continue to use that wont be wasted? Clay? Putty?
  9. Brand new still in box Tandy Pro Embossing Machine. Includes 1 roll. $450.00 plus freight. Thank you
  10. We are inquiring about having two leather Fossil bags embossed, each with a staff first and sir name and CPA designation. Would anyone be able to do this work for our company or be able to refer us to someone locally that could assist us? We are located in Langley BC (Canada). Please advise. Cheryl Hipwell Office Manager Avisar Chartered Professional Accountants T 604.513.5707 W avisar.ca
  11. I have been fabricating a hot stamping machine in my spare time. My goal is to build an air operated unit at least as competent as the $3,400 Kwik Print 86A/A. Time will tell. Phase One consists of building the heating unit. I will not be held responsible if you attempt to build one of these yourself, which you absolutely shouldn’t do. Heat embossers are made of electricity and extreme pressure and heat and danger and you can burn your house down, maim yourself, and/or electrocute yourself if you don’t know what you’re doing. Don’t do that. Phase One — the heater The Kwik Print 86 A/A uses an air circuit to deliver up to 1 ton of pressure through a Bimba air cylinder to an OEM ram to which the chase and heater are attached. The machine uses a 400W strip heater and Ulanet Robo Temp. I suspect Kwik Print uses Ulanet heaters and the Ulanet Robo Temp pulsating on/off controller because they’re American made. They’re expensive and I don’t care where my components were made. Maybe you do. My machine uses a 300W cartridge heater and Inkbird PID with solid state relay and thermocouple. The advantages of a PID and thermocouple are that (a) they’re cheap as dirt ($37 delivered from Amazon Prime), and ( once tuned, they’re very stable. My cartridge heater was less than $8 delivered from Amazon Prime. 300W is probably over-spec’d. The arbor press Until I build the frame for the air cylinder, I’m using my Famco 2 ton to test the heating unit. I made absolutely certain to over tighten the press’s guides so that the ram will stay raised. ANY skin contact with the heating plate will result in a second degree burn. The ram has a ½” hole with set screw drilled into its end. The heater The heating plate consists of a stainless steel block large enough to accommodate any embossing die I can see myself using. It’s tapped for a ½” stainless rod that fits into the end of ram. I used a vertical knee mill to dimension it and drill/ream holes for a cartridge heater and thermocouple. The heater hole (red leads) needs to be accurate within a few thousandths for maximum efficiency. The thermocouple hole (silver lead) is tapped to accept the unit’s threaded flange. Mounting and registering dies The embossing die is attached to the heating plate with a piece of 3M heat activated tape. Registration is simple. When the heater is cool, place your work piece on the press with the tape-covered die positioned where you want it. Slight pressure will leave a non-permanent mark on the leather showing you where the die is. Use a pencil to mark the edges of the piece. Slide the piece out of the way without disturbing the die or you have to start over. Place the edges of straight pieces of card stock on your registration lines and hold them down with some hard drive magnets. Don’t worry about the magnets being tall enough to hit the heating plate. Foil stamping dies are taller. Turn on your PID and get the die up to temp. You’ll have to experiment with temperature settings based on the leather and foil you’re using. Gently lower the ram so that it comes in contact with the taped die — always make sure that the leather you used to register the die is under it so you don’t damage it. Magnesium dies are durable for thousands of impressions when properly cared for. Give the ram a little mash. Get ready to stamp by placing your piece against the registration guides. Stamping You can blind deboss (stamping without foil) or use foil. To use foil, cut off a manageable section and place it flat against your work piece. Stamp by lowering the ram in a deliberate manner — you will have to experiment with temperature, pressure, and the amount of time the die remains in contact with your work piece. It’s not hard to get consistently good impressions. Results on leather and paper are nice. Top to bottom left to right: W&C bridle grain, W&C bridle flesh, Brown Horween equine Chromexcel, W&C natural tooling, black Horween bovine Chromexcel, Mohawk 130# paper. Materials 8mm x 80mm 300W cartridge heater — $7.47 delivered — http://www.amazon.com/Mold-Heating-Element-Cartridge-Heater/dp/B00DN6BQCY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1452723192&sr=8-8&keywords=300w+cartridge+heater Ink bird ITC-100VH+25A SSR+ K sensor PID temperature controller with K-type thermocouple and 25A solid state relay — $36.99 delivered — http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RMDZVNO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 Misc. Various lengths of wire, terminal blocks, spade and fork connectors, grommets, scavenged inline fuse, scavenged rocker switch, etc. Suitable enclosure — I had a nice extrusion and face plates 1 ½”+ ton arbor press Stainless steel square rod and round rod in whatever dimensions you want Access to a horizontal bandsaw, vertical knee mill, end mills, drill bits, reamer, taps dies, etc. Dies and tape 3/8” raised/wrong reading magnesium foil stamping dies from Owosso — https://www.owosso.com/Products/MagnesiumDies/FoilStamping.aspx 3M heat bonding film — $22 for 1” x 180’ from Owosso — https://www.owosso.com/3MBondingFilm.aspx Foil This is specific to your application so you’re on your own.
  12. Custom Leather Label

    Hi guys, I would like some helping in tackling leather patches/labels, I am trying to make leather patches to use on beanies, 5 panel caps etc.... I already bought my custom stamp, I am struggling to get crisp two tone (for lack of a better word) impression, I tried using soldering iron (60w) no temp adjustment on both veg tan and chrome tan leather. I also tried using as hand stamp on both veg tan and chrome tan. I am sure there is something wrong I am doing or using wrong type of leather.... I have uploaded my outcome and desired outcome.
  13. Custom Leather Stamps

    I've been making custom stamps with my laser engraver out of 1/4" acrylic. I thought originally acrylic would not work, but to my surprise it works very well with an arbor press. They're not indestructible, but as long as apply even pressure, these will last a very long time. I'm selling them for $10ea.. that includes shipping. A small art fee may apply if you have something complex.. $5 to $15 .. PM me if interested Ron
  14. I'm new to leather working and just learning how to make dog collars,i seen this collar with a braided look,does anyone know what stamp this is and where i can get it? I'm not sure if this link is going work. https://50f8c916-a-f1b94201-s-sites.googlegroups.com/a/bluecrowleatherworks.com/blue-crow-leather-works/collars/weave_collar1_lg.jpg?attachauth=ANoY7cqHY4nWgGfioXNa4ihM1GqUpyiAy6NvgBFdYUsSRD1bdTQgxRUgP5A3HduQXd5s4FjgbH5ULaRRI8MAuvvOnQGc8xpAisLHAPDtKlnOTR6ryN3Z64PvySE08ICiuZ5gKf7iQqgQSkUfUcjxAje5_mKkD_aJMDjG_-kwbgkaTQQsvq3GrPXBmzXb1oj_YP40lhTeGWAj188UVrM1WE_HHHHYMT0AHnNqZgRHy83-M6w9PcgtwW1oumO4Yoc_Fsmcw_4YktnS&attredirects=0
  15. Hi all, I bought a Heat Embosser from LW Leathers- https://www.etsy.com/listing/112736766/electric-branding-iron-for-leather-wood?ref=shop_home_feat_1 and am wondering if anyone has had luck foil stamping with it? If so, what are the tips/tricks to it? Any help will be much appreciated! Mandy
  16. Arbor Press Modification Help

    I know people have have used arbor presses when using embossing plates. Does any one have pictures of theirs and the modification made to make it work? I would love to see them! Any suggestions or ideas are grateful. Thank you
  17. Hi All, I'm new to leather work, familiar with carving, stamping and embossing wheels for borders and straps. I was perusing the internet looking for vintage embossing wheels and came upon embossing plates used for book binding. They are beautiful and I was thinking they would make great corner plates and maybe even for a large handbag, but I'm not sure how they work and if they would be ok to use for regular/heavier weight leathers than book cover weight. Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  18. Heart Of Montana

    Here is a project that I recently finished. Some of you may have followed its construction on Facebook. I wanted to post the finished piece here for others to see. I was asked by some friends to share what happened with this leather carving. This carving has found a home in Montana. It raised $4250.00 for the Great Falls Symphony Association at their Black Tie and Blue Jeans event on March 8th. The money that was raised goes toward their Education and Outreach Programs. This piece of art generated more activity and funds than any of the other items offered that evening. You can find out a bit more about what went into piece and why it is titled "Heart of Montana" by visiting http://elktracks.net/shop/print You can also get information on the prints that are now available.
  19. I am about to push the button on a Bunkhouse embosser. I was very impressed with Ray! Both knowledgeable and personable. I was going to go with the Tandy but it seems that the Bunkhose unit isn't limited to straps and one could do borders and edges on larger pieces. Andy tips or comments would be appreciated. Thanks! Bob
  20. Hi y'all! I'm a medieval geek from Montréal with a passion for costuming,swordfight and more recently leatherworking. I've always been fascinated with leather armors and all the intricate techniques that are implied un their making. In the past month, I finally geared up with the essential. I am now crafting pieces of armor and celtic-themed accessories of my own. Anybody else in the area? Anyhow, I can't wait tout get criticism from you people! By the way, I'm looking for good armor patterns, anybody has some good websites that could help In my quest for the most epic armor In the universe?
  21. Greetings, Just thought I would show some of the stuff I make. I'm showing for a couple of reasons. (1) People are occasionally asking about putting lettering on leather (vegetable tanned) in circles and (2) Some design features of medallion holders and pen/pencil holders and closures. The following four pictures show a book cover that I had obtain to permission from Cocaine Anonymous to make since their CA logo is a registered trademark. After I received the "one-time, single use" permission I used some moveable lead printing type to form the logo. The "CA" was formed with the Baskerville printing type font and the HOPE, FAITH and COURAGE were formed with the Stymie printing type fonts. The circles were sections of PVC pipe and metal pipe cut to the same height as the printing type. A book press was used to emboss the logo into the cased vegetable tanned leather. I wish I had a good clicker, but the book press works OK for me. The little ® registered trademark symbol was formed with a small letter "R" and the circle around it was just the light impress of a small hole punch The prayer in the center was produced by http://www.greyghostgraphics.com/stamps.html and was pressed into the leather with the same book press. The Grey Ghost graphic stamp was a stamp without a handle. The pen/pencil snap/strap is just a simple way to add to any completed slip-on book cover. The medallion holder is a little more complex. The applique sewing channel was formed like the circles in the logo and then a hole was cut out with a 1-1/2" punch. The leather was dyed with antique dye. Then a clear .020 vinyl section was glued to the back side of the applique patch with contact cement. The applique was temporarily placed on the front and the location for the second hole was marked on the cover. That marked hole was punched out with the same 1-1/2" punch. Then the applique was place in the cover, aligning the two holes, with double back leather tape from http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm?pID=8677. The applique was sewn on and the medallion was adhered to the piece the was punched out of the cover. The medallion/leather circle is placed in the hole a taped in with Gorilla tape. The medallion is easily changed by pealing back the Gorilla tape and replacing the medallion. If you would like more details on lettering on leather, please see: http://aaleatherbigbookcovers.com/download/Typography%20in%20Leather%20Article.pdf Hope this helps someone. Bob Stelmack.
  22. 6 Custom Leather Wallets

    Hello, We are looking for gifts for groomsmen in our wedding and want to give them each a custom wallet. On the front of the wallet, we would like the embossed outline of the Colorado flag (see picture below), with thicker lines than in the picture and a dark stain to highlight the pattern. On the lower right inside corner, we would like to emboss each groomsman's initials. We tried another vendor for this design and were disappointed, the Colorado flag outline was barely visible on the front. The wedding date is this year, April 26 and we would need 6 wallets total. We are looking to spend about $60 per wallet, but price is negotiable. Thank you, Joanne and Jonathan Bacharach
  23. Hey all, I have a little problem on my hands. I just finished this little project and after I added the finishing touches and sealed my leather with resolene, I then realized i forgot to add my stamp. So my question is it possible to still case the leather, maybe from the backside so it gets it damp near the core and then add my logo? I'm sure if i were to try to add water to the front it would just bead up and never soak in. Also the flesh side is lined with fabric that has been attached to the leather with some 3M 77 spray adhesive. Just hope someone had a few tips before I start this. Thanks! P.S. Its a little christmas gift for my girlfriend so I can't mess this up
  24. Hi! In an old tread, people talked about how to do leaf embossing and block dyeing. I ran into a problem and was hoping that someone might help me. I am not able to make an leaf impression on the leather. I made the leather wet, put the leaf on, placed many heavy books on it and let it dry over night. But this morning, only the trickes parts of the leaf was impressed on the leather. What I am doing wrong? Best regards Nicklas