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Found 131 results

  1. Getting into carving

    I am wanting to get into carving and tooling to spice up my holsters. I did a spruce tree today at our leather working breakfast and decided to go ahead and buy a few swivel knives and some stamping tools and what not. What are some good tooling sets to buy? Craft tool? Or is there something better? Please don’t ask to see my tree...
  2. Any ideas on how to fix this issue on a singer 7-34? We just replaced the needle and adjusted the tension but it seems like maybe something is going on with the bobbin? Thanks in advance!
  3. Hey guys! My name is Jon. I own a small leather shop in Castroville, Texas called Spartan Custom Leather. Right now we have a 2.5 - 3 year wait list on new custom orders and need a little help catching up. If you would like to get paid to do some leatherwork, please text me and send a few pics of your work to 210-381-1299. Thank you.
  4. Hello- We recently purchased a used Singer 7-34 and we are having a tough time finding the type of needles to purchase for replacements. We also haven't had any luck tracking down a manual. Does anyone know what needle size this machine might take or where a person could track down a manual? thanks!
  5. Beginner's Questions...Again

    Hello everyone I'm brand spanking new to leatherwork, having only ever made stuff (bags & tool rolls) out of canvas up until now. I'd like to progress into leather; making tool rolls and ditty bags to compliment my canvas ones. I'd also like to start making belts too. As with every other newbie I'm totally confused about the tools out there and what I need / don't need. I've read forum posts here, checked out websites and watched YouTube and have a rough idea of the basics. However, I also have a lot of questions and hope to find answer here. I understand the opinion of 'Buy The Best Tools You Can Afford', but I'm not 100% committed to the cause yet, so feel that shopping at Tandy here in the UK could be a good place to start. I read both good and bad things regarding Tandy, but to me the prices are affordable and the convenience of using one shop instead of sourcing tools from all over the world is preferable at this time. Am I making an error with this idea? I'm favouring the use of Tandy's Craftool Pro Stitching Chisels. I like the idea of punching neat, clean holes straight through the leather ready for stitching (and using a stitching awl for single holes in the corners). They had a favourable review from Armitage Leather so think they'll suit me just fine. My questions here are: If I use wing dividers to score a line in the leather do I really need a dedicated adjustable groover as well? Is it a handy enough tool to use elsewhere in projects? If I use a smooth-faced hammer / cobbler's hammer on the stitches afterwards do I need an overstitch wheel? Should I get a diamond awl as well? Just in case? I can't quite justify spending money of strap end punches, even though I can really see the benefit of them; quick, clean cuts every time! I'm thinking of using templates, just for now, instead. Would a head knife be the best choice in cutting the leather, or could I get away with a Stanley knife / box cutter? I think that's the main questions I have for now. Thanks for taking your time to read this far. All the best. Pic attached in the kind of thing I make now and would like to try in leather.
  6. Hi all! I am new to everything sewing... so you can bet that I have watched every tutorial out there that I can find. However, I cannot figure out why my machine sews 2 full stitches before my skipping many, many stitches. I have a Rex607z (shh! I am poor). I have been trying to learn for its equivalent machines like barraccuda 200z amd sailrite LSW. I have rethreaded, changed the needle (135x15 tri and upholstery thread...should be #69 but it does not say clearly), re-done bobbin, changed needle bar height, checked for burrs and bent things, and re-oiled everything. The kicker, the sewing machine will sew through jersey knit fabric (1 layer) with no skipped stitches. When I sew deer hide with a straightline, the ol' Rex makes two stitches then skips everything after. If it is in zigazag, it will only pick up the bobbin thread in a straight line..not in zigzag. Anyways, if anyone has any auggestions at all about what is going on and how to fix it, please let me know! Thank you all!
  7. Newbie help

    Hi I'm very new to working leather, like I don't even have any tools yet. I have been given a bag of sofa leather off cuts. I wondered if anyone had any ideas of what to do with it. My goal in leather work is to make wallets craved with my tattoo designs. While I know I'm a long way off from that and this leather isn't right for craving. Could I use it for wallet interiors? Thanks in advance any help would be greatly appreciated
  8. Looking to sell smaller projects

    Hello all, I have started making small leather projects after 40 yr hiatus. I am currently making items such as designer keychains, small notebooks, book covers such as bible covers, any book cover specially made, belts etc. You get the picture. I am a 68 yr old disabled vet looking to sell these items at a modest price, just enough to cover the price of materials. Any good ideas on how I could go about this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and God Bless Entry Actions Report Entry
  9. Hello all! I've recently taken in interested in leathercraft and would love some advice from others as to where I should start, particularly when it comes to figuring out which leather I should be buying. So far I've just been practicing carving, stitching, and dyeing and have made a tooled passport cover which some veg tanned leather I bought on Amazon -- which I will never do again! The leather was stiff and very difficult to stamp and carve. It almost seemed like there was some kind of coating on it as it. I see now why it was so cheap... As an avid horse person, my interests are in definitely tack making, so I'd like to start making simple projects such as wither straps, bronc halters, spur straps, and eventually headstalls. I've seen a few people suggest harness leather for projects such as these, I also see "bridle leather" available on several online leather supply stores. Is there much of a difference? What kind of thickness should I be using for these projects? Can anyone recommend the best type (and brand) of leather for projects like this that won't break the bank? Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!
  10. Modelling tools

    Hi folks I have posted a bit in the critique section so please excuse the cross over. I am looking for pointers and/or tutorials in effectively using modelling tools. Especially in creating realistic cylinders, on knotwork (to make it look like beading or piping) or pillars, snakes, poles etc in pictorial carving. Do I double bevel the thing first? (a recent thought I have not yet tried). it seems like it should be such a simple thing but its doing my head in!! and I can't get it right!! I want to make this knotwork look like rounded braid next time (or maybe the time after that, or the time after that :)), and the pillars in the dragon pic look rounder. Please help thanks Pip
  11. Edge Creaser???

    What exactly is an edge creased used for? I understand it should put a nice crease line along an edge but is it fully cosmetic? Is the a feature bonus to using one? Does my crease become my a stitch line? Am I to finish my edge before or after the crease? I am fully clueless on this tool, just needing info to find out what tools to purchase as all I have is from a cheap stitching kit off Amazon.
  12. Bobbin issues. HELP!

    Can someone look at my attached pictures and give me any ideas of what I’m doing wrong? I’ve done everything I know to do. Wound a new bobbin, retreaded top thread and bobbin. I’m not sure what brand my machine is. The labels were removed. Any ideas of what you think it may be will be helpful. Thank you.
  13. Singer 211g151

    I recently got a singer 211g151 and have been trying to sew leather holsters on it. I’m new to leather work. I been having trouble with the thread bunching up around the bobbin and/ or cutting the thread. Is there a way to get this machine to sew leather or am I wasting my time messing with it? I am using the braided wax thread and sewing 5-6 oz leather. Needle goes through the leather with ease it just doesn’t tighten on the bottom side resulting in the bunching up and cutting thee thread. Any help is appreciated
  14. Sewing machine help

    Hello, I am looking at buying my second sewing machine and need help, I have never used a machine before so I am looking for something that's user friendly has a servo motor and a speed reducer. I had bought a jack sewing machine over a year ago paid $1850.00 for it and never been able to use it, can't figure out how to thread properly I had it threaded once before and it sewed but the it had a bird's nest on the bottom of the leather never been able to fix that, now when sewing it does about 2 stitches and the top thread breaks so I don't know if it's still bird nest's on the bottom the machine has become such a head ache that it just sits there. There's no youtube video's on it I called and e-mailed the company I bought it from and no help was given from them at all so I e-mailed the manufacturer with no help at all from them either. I know I need a walking foot industrial and I have it figured out down to 2 machines the cobra class 4 and the cowboy 4500 price wise both machines are the same for the package I am looking at. I make a large variety of products mainly use veg tan, english bridle and suede for lining. I need to be able to sew from 2 oz to about 18 oz. I have chosen these 2 machines because they are cylinder base with flat table accessory when needed and have a throat length of 16 1/2 as I make anywhere from wallets, bags, holsters etc. I would like input on these machines and how well they do the job I need. What are the pros and cons and what are the experiences people have with the company they bought it from. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you in advance.
  15. Hello Everyone! Brand new newbie here. I'm a firefighter and I'm trying to get into making the helmet shields for those retiring or leaving to go somewhere else. They make awesome gifts. Which brings me to my request, is there anybody out there that has a template that I can print out in order to get a 100% symmetrical and accurate shield? The ones my department lent me are old and pretty misshapen. Also open to any and all advice from anyone willing to help out. If you made it this far, thank you for reading and I hope to hear from you all.
  16. Hello everyone! I am fairly new at leather craft. To this point I have made a few pouches, belts, journals and delved into leather carving - but I've always used veg-tan fresh leather. I found a brief case at a thrift store yesterday (covered in dust and quite lonely). I really liked the style of it, and would like to modify it (smaller mainly) into a handbag. So in taking on this challenge, I've run into some conundrums as aspected haha. As I mentioned I've never worked on old leather, and this leather does appear quite thirsty. But also appeared to be a moderate quality bag as far as machine made goes. It doesn't appear to have a thick finishing layer, the moment I spritzed some water on the bag the leather soaked it up. Photos below (first 3 original bag, last 2 since desconstruction). My main two questions (at this point) are: 1) glue...ideas on removal? The bag was originally partitioned into 2 compartments, I'd like 1 larger compartment for the handbag. So I basically just need to get rid of 1 strip of old glue down the middle. 2) cracking... I'd like to bend the leather in 1/2 where the "<=>" shaped leather pieces are positioned. On first inspection of the leather in the area I plan to bend, I noticed some cracking :/ (prior to me attempting to bend). Any thoughts on how I can prep this leather to accommodate bending/minimize further cracking? Thank you so much for any advice you can lend me in this endeavor!

    Hi! My name is Jon. I am the manager of a growing leather shop in Castroville,TX called Spartan Custom Leather. We are being blessed with an overabundance of work orders and are searching for anyone in the San Antonio, Castroville, Hondo, Lytle, Natalia area that would like to make some money making quality leather products. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Our shop number is 830-388-1907 Thank you
  18. Hi folks I am in the uk. I am deliberating about buying a sewing machine, but I have very little idea of where to begin. I make tooled belts, sheaths, pouches, wallets and bags. I was looking at a flat bed walking foot machine (juki 1541) but someone advised me to go for a cylinder arm and build a flat bed to get maximum value. I don't have enough experience about threads or needles or machines and whilst I have watched a number of videos and read a whole load of posts I don't know what I need, or more I am getting very confused about what I need. Other than its got to be walking foot. I have a brother which I was duped into buying, as the seller said it could be used (converted) as a walking foot but it was cheap and I have used it on thin projects for a year of so but it is inconsistant and frustrating. I dont have the money to waste on another mistake. Please help if you can! Thanks Pip
  19. Help! I have 3 tubs total of scrap leather I have accumulated over time. 1 tub oil tan, 1 tub veg, and 1 tub chrome tanned. I have drawn a blank on what to do with it, I don't like the idea of throwing any away if I don't have too. I just need ideas on simple easy projects that don't require much time that way I can continue with my normal day to day. Key fobs are the only thing I can think of right now, but it gets boring doing just those! The pieces range from the size of a standard rounded key fob, to a large journal. any advice would be appreciated in fact any projects are welcomed easy or hard, because I hope this post might help others who are in the same boat
  20. LOOKING FOR SOME HELP! I have been asked to create a leather fire bucket as a gift. I would like to keep it close to how it would have originally been constructed and i think i have a good idea of how i would like to do it. Any thoughts and ideas are greatly appreciated! I am most curious about what type of waterproofing / hardening mixture can be made/ bought that was used in the production of these buckets. I am doing as much research as possible and hope to get some ideas from you guys. Thanks, Kael

    Hello folks , here again with another one of my newbie situations: I love my thread , as we all do and well I'm a beginner so I don't use much right a tiny 25 yard spool would do me well for a good time, but as I began to actually do more work , make more things , I began to realize "hey , this won't do". And this constant buying of thread has been on and on.I like to buy Tandy's nylon waxed thread: And it's only 4 dollars, right so I'm not complaining or anything but I really feel I could do better for the long run , I know not all of you go and buy tiny 25 yard spools but yeah what's something I could do to not spend 16 dollars on 100 yards ? Also , today I bought some "Omega nylon #2 thread" thinking I could rub some beeswax on it and pass it off as waxed nylon thread , I tried it , and it didn't feel as good as Tandy's, maybe because the beeswax was homemade ? Also , the thread isn't made up of 3 little stands like Tandy's, it's only 2. Could I somehow make this work ? It's 275 yards. Thank y'all in advance
  22. Got thread wound around the hook

    So I bought a cobra class 26. I was trying to figure out some motor speed settings... I forgot to take out the bobbin and bobbin thread got wrapped around the base of the hook. How do I take out the hook to clean out the thread? OR point me towards a service manual with a similar hook set up...
  23. Hello folks ! Something weird is happening.. a while ago I was making a wallet, as the newbie I am with very little experience using other products than Sheen and dyes, I decided I wanted to use antique finish, medium brown (fiebing's that comes in the little plastic jar) and so I did and after noticing that it wasn't such a good idea I tried rubbing it off with water , and somehow that worked but not quite, it brought off most of the stains but it really took some in , to the point "of no return" with water at least, and so I got frustrated, abandoned the project because it was ruined and left it for a while. A little over week ago I found it again and decided I'd dye it black and I did , it was great , the part I didn't use the paste on took the dye well but that part that did , it's sort of dye proof , water proof , everything proof , I tried dyeing it once , I left it to dry for 36 hours , I tried to buff it to add some super sheene , and the black came off several parts returning some huge spots to their natural color pretty much , and I tried dyeing it around 2 more times , same result every time , later I thought I just needed some deglazing , I read on here I could use rubbing alcohol , I don't really have access to a shop at the moment and probably won't til a week from now so is there anything I can do to replace deglazing? First I tried neatsfoot oil , it took it (from what I saw) , the dye came right off , tried rubbing alcohol 3 times , when it dried the last time , I tried wetting it (I read on here that it can help absorb dye) but still still didn't work , but it made me notice that my item is pretty much waterproof, water stays over it like nothing, does not bother to absorb What can I do ? Thank y'all in advance, good luck to anyone who's got the storm thing coming at them
  24. Can I slick/burnish upholstery leather ?

    So I managed to get my hands on some couch leather/upholstery leather. It's real and stuff , tested it and stuff and yep , it passed. It's beautiful stuff , I'll be putting pictures up later I was wondering if I could make wallets and stuff outta this , I'm not sure about the edges , it's kinda flimsy (moves around a lot when I try to slick it) But my real question is , can I actually burnish this or would it just waste my time ?
  25. Roller feed vs walking foot

    I am looking to buy my first leather sewing machine, I want to primarily make bags, and moccasin style shoes. 2 maybe 3 layers of 6-8 oz softer temper leather. I also like to stitch designs on to webbing belts (2 layers of seat belt webbing). The likelihood of me making a holster or sheath out of leather is slim to none. I might venture into leather belts. So here is where I am going to ask for help. What is the difference between roller feed , active roller feeds (techsew 830) and walking feet (techsew 860) for my applications I have only previously used a pfaff 545 & 1245 so I am familiar with how a walking foot operates, I am more curious what are the advantages and disadvantages of both. I will say I really like the idea of being able to see my needle as it plunges into the leather. I know my weaknesses are long straight lines and over or under running where I want to go because I am horrible at guessing where my needle/target is under the presser foot. I know that no one machine will do everything I want to do but I want a fairly versatile machine to start with and then pick up a 227R or similar cylinder arm medium duty machine that's capable of running 207 or better thread. I would like to get a machine in the next month so please help me understand what is going on, the pros and the cons. If you know of a good article, post or video link it or pm me. Thanks I need all the help I can get.