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Found 71 results

  1. Hi, i am completly new to working with leater, so I might post my very first projects - I have done a lot of mistakes and please critisiue whereever you can! 1) The Mans Purse .. veg leather with a homemade vintage coloring (attempt) and firstwetforming ever (bottom) the seam fell appart and I had to renew everything. I learned that "carving" the Letters isn't so easy in already dyed leather :-) 2) old Kukuri Knife .... the wooden part was covered with sheep leather and the loop was veg leather where i glued the sheep leather as outer lining ... to match the color... At least the wetforming with Alc/shampoo/water worked.. What I learned: contact glue is a bit** .. once the parts touched the stick together like hell... so the whole wet forming didgn't wor anymore : -) Hope you like them, and esp. with the knife I will add the progress pics
  2. It started as a damascus blade blank from a local knife show (1095 & 15n20), 5" blade: Then I added leather scales (horse butt?): Then wrapped in alligator and fastened the scales, and started the sheath with 5.5oz leather: And N52 magnets: I designed the sheath so the knife could fit in facing either direction: Wrapped in alligator: And stitched together, attatch strap, and done: The strap is attached with a chicago screw and it swivels, so I can wear it IWB or OWB. Yes, it took a very long time, but if I did it again it would be much quicker next time, now that I have some clue what I'm doing. This was my first knife handle, and first sheath.
  3. For sale in Continental USA only. This is a used Ellegi model SKS 8” wide Stationary/Straight Knife Splitter. Please take note that this is a 3 Phase Power machine. Can be converted over to be powered by a 110v motor by replacing motor. This machine I believe was imported by American Shoe Machinery Company. This machine is in excellent condition as well as the blade and feed roller. Splitter has forward and reverse switch. I have upgraded to a wider machine and selling this one. Manual/instructions included. Machine stands about 45” tall and is 18” x 18” on the base. Shipping weight is about 247lbs and 265lbs on pallet, I will palletize and pack this machine, you will need to arrange a shipper to pick it up. $1300 Reply through this forum or you may call the shop at 602-two69-zero202. Thanks for looking.
  4. Two more...one is "almost just like" the first two, the last is because the guy wanted two, and I thought I'd try out the new airbrush. Hey, he should have been more specific. The airbrushed one is actually my trophy wife's fave. Once again, the "club colors" of the VFW Warriors club are black and yellow... you guessed, right? The pic shows the nasty-a$$ed sheaths they knives came with, and my "new and improved" sheaths. Keeping in mind that the blades didn't really deserve any more than the aforementioned N-A sheaths shown.
  5. Continuing with the downsizing of my shop, I'm selling some of my lesser-used tools. I purchased all of my Vergez Blanchard tools from VB themselves. Vergez Blanchard Pricking Iron Sets: #9 (9 teeth per inch, 12 teeth and 2 teeth) - BARELY USED - $239 #6 (6 teeth per inch, 10 teeth and 2 teeth) - $219 (The 10-toothed iron has a bum tooth on the end that I haven't taken the time to sharpen out, because I rarely use it. Otherwise it's in excellent shape. Two Vergez Blanchard scratch compasses / Wing Dividers - I use these to mark my stitch lines. The two are slightly different sizes, but hardly noticeable. $59/each Vergez Blanchard "Couteau a Pied Demi-lune" No. 7 (200mm) - $109 I've sharpened this on my buffing wheel - it's big and as a sharp as a razor! Vergez Blanchard "Fer a Filet Maroquinier" (filleteuses, creasers and folders) - would like to keep them together, $149 for the entire set. Lastly I have a large, round, 64oz Barry King Mallet - minor dings, in excellent shape - $75 PRICES INCLUDE SHIPPING (to continental USA) AND PAYPAL FEES. Willing to ship elsewhere but will have to add additional cost! Here is a link to a Google Photos album if you'd like to look at the pictures full size: https://goo.gl/photos/vDfx17xTdqSzSHrH7 Thanks for having a look - let me know if you have any questions! - Ross
  6. Second sheath. It looks a lot like the first sheath, because the first sheath showed up at the Harley riders VFW club. Next request for one was immediate. That's a good thing, right? Second request was for one "just like the first one". Not as much fun for me, it was like I'd been there before. It was a different knife though, so that was nice. First pic is the first sheath, second pic is today's completion.
  7. What is the cost of a knife?

    I am hoping to buy a l'indespensible knife, but I cannot find them online and I definitely cannot find them locally. Are they still available for purchase? Can somebody please let me know if they are, and what they are worth either with or without a blade.
  8. Made another one this time longer and scout carry. This one is a retirement gift that come with a shinny nickle.( not pictured )
  9. Tooling A Knife Sheath?

    Hello I'm new to tooling, but have been a knife/sheath maker since 1966. When I make a sheath, I know I need to " back " the leather before casing and tooling, Here's my dilema, in order to make my stitch groove I need to have a good sanded edge to follow. Without putting the sheath together first, I can't get that perfect edge? If I put it togerther first I can't tool it because there's no solid backing behind the blade area? I can't tool the front first, or the edges of the layers may not line up? Has anyone else run into this " catch 22 " situation? At the very least, this is a hard problem to explain, but if anyone "gets it"??? I'd appreciate any help you can offer? If I'm not giving enough information, please let me know. Regards: Stoney327 owner/operator Pappy Dave's Knives Berwick, Pa. " In business since 1966 "
  10. Hello all, I'm new to the site and have a question about my Barry King Swivel knife. I just upgraded to the bk with 1/2" barrel and 3/8" angled blade from a tandy starter knife. I went to try it out on properly cased economy grade leather and it stuck. I had to press pretty hard to get a decent cut and it was difficult to maneuver and drug pretty hard. I could barely get the knife to cut halfway through the leather pressing pretty hard. I stropped it and everything. I ran my finger on the blade and it was smooth, clean and very dull. My tandy knife was sharp and would cut my finger if pressed at all while drawing it across. But my tandy knife would cut too deep and easily leave undercuts and was sticky. This bk knife leaves a nice v but is very hard to use. Is this normal? I'm newer to the leather craft world and have been using that tandy knife for about a year. If I pressed hard enough it would go right through the leather. This knife is indenting the leather and not actually cutting it until I press real hard. Should I contact the company? It might take quite a bit to sharpen it and I don't want to ruin the blade if that's what needs to be done. You can see the difference in the photo below. BK on the left and Tandy on the right Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
  11. I'm a big knife fan, one of my favorite patterns is the Case Peanut. I currently have 4 of them. This is my second molded item...a pocket case for this small pocket knife..... This is a synthetic purple model....and the slip pays homage to that by being dyed purple inside. Dark green stitching. Pretty pleased with it. Started a work-carry molded shesth with my younger son today for his Leatherman tool. That'll be my most complex item yet.
  12. By the end of the week I am expecting to receive the following in the post: A cheap (Chinese made, with probable Japanese influence) beginner's sett of leather working tools from Ebay A remnant/pieces pack of leather, needles, and thread from The Identity Store A copy of "The Leatherworking Handbook" by Valerie Michael from Amazon Yet to acquire from the local chain DIY store (probably nearer the time, or on Sunday if it slips my mind before then which is likely to happen) are: wood and fixings to make a cheap stitching pony Evo-Stik Time Bond contact adhesive an Oilstone (or similar) for inevitable initial sharpening of previously mentioned tools as well as general upkeep later on miscellaneous things that catch my eye which may be helpful such as clamps, sandpaper, straight edge etc Other things yet to be appropriated into my "kit": worksurface stuff (cutting mat, poly board, granite (or similar)) decent desk lamp as most of my work will be completed in the late evening/small hours after finishing the late shift at "the day job" and goodness knows my eyes will need all the help they can get edge slicking substance graph/grid paper for when I feel up to making my own patterns bone folder type tool stitching awl Things I already have, yet to be consolidated together: poly mallet basic geometry set (ruler, square, compases etc) pencils large toolbox for storage stack of "craft" drawers for storage non-marring spudger set which I'm sure will come in handy for poking/prodding in crevices metal bodied Utility knife (and blades) Extra Virgin Olive Oil in lieu of more specialist finishes tonnes of old clothes for rags Things I will probably get at a later date once I get a feel for everything (this does not include ad hoc replacement/upgrading of any of the above when needed): butcher's block style work station (as I'll mostly be working at my 10yr old pine desk in my bedroom initially, maybe out in the shed weather permitting) relevant dyes, treatments, etc and relevant applicators basic carving tools (I do not plan on getting into this much but I guess it's always handy to be able pop a pretty border on something special) ___ I know the cost of starting a new hobby from scratch is always going to be a major consideration, but it seems leathercraft is even more so. Yes I know it's no good moaning to other people who have all been there/done that, but starting out on a shoe string is still likely to cost me upwards of £100 ($125 for you colonials ). Being the sort of person I am, often doing things on a whim, and generally cautious with cash, I do not want to go to the lengths that some do and get The Works in terms of equipment and materials to start with. I don't want to spend a small fortune on something if I don't end up getting decently into it to justify the cost. That said, it seems the general advice in terms of initial outlay is "get the best you can afford" and that's what I'm doing I suppose. I guess there are those out there who have started out with much less, and I have no need nor reason trying to justify what I'm doing. I guess in a way I'm secretly hoping that I get sufficiently good enough at the whole "leather thing" that in the long run I can start going to fairs, events, do made-to-order and the like, and be able to become (at least partially) self employed. But that's definitely a long way off. I think for me leathercraft will always be a matter of being on a shoestring, at least in the sense of trying to get the best from the least. I've always been enthralled by the way craftsmen of all disciplines in years gone-by have come up with ingenious solutions which even centuries or millennia haven't changed much, and as much as possible I want to keep what I do "low-tech": drawing up templates by hand rather than using PC software, using as traditional methods and tools as possible, and if possible trying to be authentic in style/process with any historical based pieces I produce. I (like to think) I am fairly good at improvising, and this will also keep costs down. Who needs a £40 edge slicker when a double-pronged piece of deer antler (free if you know where/when to look) will do? Or expensive black dyes if you can master the likes of vinegaroon and lampblack?
  13. Rose Head Knife Clean Up And Repair

    An old Rose head knife I picked up for next to nothing. You can see why from the first picture, she was a little rough. That being said I'm a firm believer that if it's beyond repair you may as well try and repair it because it can't get any broker! I know that's not proper but broken won't work and broked ain't a word for that sentence either. The first picture shows the knife as it was when I got it. The second shows the handle removed. It's a 5/32" steel pin for those interested in knowing the pin size. Picture three shows it back together. Picture four is just closer so you can see I did not remove every pit down flush from the blade. It is also not sharpend yet. The inlays are Ivory from a late 1800's piano keyboard they are 3/8" and cover a repair to the handle. The pin holding the blade has been replaced by a 5/32" brass rod. The missing wood around the pin was replaced with epxoy mixed with sanding dust from the handle. The handle is walnut and I chose to repair it rather than replace it. I tried to keed everything as original as I could on this. Total time invested was about four hours. That's actually working on it, not drying time or breaks from sanding out rust pits. I have a lot experience with restoring old woodworking tools and I am a woodworker with all the tools to build whatever I need. I'm saying that because doing this sort of thing can overwhelm folks who are not prepared. It's also not a cheap way to get a tool if you charge an hourly rate for your time. Having to buy all the tools would really make the price jump. I used Ivory key from piano Two 1 x 30 belt sanders 120 through 2000 grit 1 drill press 4 sizes of drill bits Shims and scrap boards to level handle for drilling I 3/8" drill hole punch made from pipe to cut inlays Wet/dry sandpaper from 80 grit to 2000 grit Mineral oil for sandpaper lube Bolt cutter Dremel tool Dremel grinding stones 5/32" brass rod Buffer 4 different buffing wheels with different compound on each wheel Epoxy Bodied linseed oil/varnish/mineral spirits 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 mix Rubber gloves Lots of blue tape on edges ( even dull they cut flesh) Band-aids Safety glasses A bunch of other stuff I forgot Lots of patience The last one is the most important. Stop and leave it alone. Think through the problem and go back to it. I'm working on a few more. Each manufacture did things in their own way. I'm sure over the years the methods vary within the same manufacturer. The Dixon I'm working on has a rosewood handle that is simply driven on the tang. Two brass tacks hold the ferrule on and have caused the wood to split out over the years. You can see that handle in picture three in the background. I'm pointing that out so anyone who wishes to do this will take the time to figure out how to take the one they have apart.
  14. I made one with a simple snap and then tried one with a Concho/Snap combo. I didn't know what to do so I created a leather "Washer" to fill the long shank space. I also made the mistake of positioning the Strap across the back instead of the front.
  15. Recently made this for a family member. No patterns available, so had to come up with this on my own. There's some flaws, but over all I'm ok with it for a first try. Open to comments. Thanks
  16. Here is a little something I was working on recently... a sheath for my survival knife
  17. Hi everyone! i ve been working wth leather and been a member of this forum for a while now but i never really shared any of my projects until now. i have recently designed a mini fat bowie for myself named "The Monster Cleaver" and got it done through ABS J.S. Doug Campbell. After getting the knife done i have decided to make a unique and one of a kind sheath and way to carry it, so i ve started my designing process and came with what i thought was a unique design. Anyways i wanted to share the finish product with you and get your opinions and any questions you might have about the sheath or the knife. Thanks for checking out my work and topic, i hope you like what your see, thanks again and enjoy.
  18. We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
  19. stamps and swivel knives

    We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
  20. stamps and swivel knives

    We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
  21. Need Advice On Buying A New Knife.

    I have been having some trouble cutting round corners and circles out of leather. Right know I have a utility knife, which works good for cutting straight lines for the most part, and an x acto style knife, which I have been using for cutting corners. The x acto is too flimsy and tends to bend when I am cutting corners, making the cut at an angle, most of the time. I would like a knife that is that same style, but with a sturdier blade that wont bend. Anyone have any suggestions? I almost bought this knife, but decided I better ask for some advice before doing so: http://usaknifemaker.com/industrial-knife-set-especially-designed-for-leather.html#.U785SajPmO0 Thanks, Zayne
  22. Hello everyone! I hope this is OK to use as a thread of the many things I'll create I'll use this first post as an index of what I've made! I hope you enjoy and I always appreciate feedback and tips! My kraken book
  23. Knife Shop

    This thread is sort of my knifemaking/sharpening blog. I make the occasional knife, most of them tactical ones for friends kids and grandkids who are just graduating from basic or advanced training. I mostly sharpen scissors (from standard to technical stylist scissors/shears, to a pair of Fiskars), knives, hand and power tools, leatherworking tools, most garden tools (please don't bring a 1,000 lb garden tractor over here with the mower blades attached), Dog and human hair clippers and blades (sharpening and repair), I'll tackle most anything if you are in a bind, but I will send out saw blades and end mills as there are others who can do them better. That being said, I am retired. I don't have to do anything If I don't want to, I do it just to do something that I know how to do. We all like to feel useful, but I ain't going to work myself to death. This is kind of the see something, say something of a knife shop. Everyone is welcome to add to or ask questions. Art
  24. Work Sharp 3000

    I have received several requests to do a writeup on my experiences and thoughts about the WS 3000 grinder. Please read-up and watch on youtube for information on this unit and if you need some real use info, I can provide it here. This is a $200 item in stock format, which is pretty useable for what it does. You can use sandpaper for different grits on the glass wheels (two provided, each side useable). You can use the peel and stick disks or just use good (read 3M here, I'm a 3M bigot, the stuff has never let me down) wet and dry paper and use the Type II Feathering adhesive to stick it down, then trim with a utility knife or whatever. Glass wheels are $20 if you think you need more. It has lots of other options and accessories that you can buy into if you get bored, but the best one is the knife sharpening attachment. Youtube it, if you are very careful with it and practice, it will put a very good edge on a knife. You can use multiple belts ad nauseum going carefully up through the grits, but the 120 belt us very aggressive on this little machine. The belts are a little pricey considering they are 1" X 18". Micro-Mesh belts from Micro Surface are an excellent choice other than Work Shop. DMT makes a replacement diamond disk system for the Work Sharp that I use. I don't recommend this to everyone as the cost is high and is not necessary unless the job dictates. My only use for this machine is for small parts that need grinding or dressing. From looking at it, you would think this thing would be handy for a whole bunch of stuff. It has a 1/5 HP motor that is geared down by a factor of 6 or 7, and the glass lap wheels (that you stick the paper to) are pretty flat, not optical but very good nonetheless. However, that small wheel is really small for doing knives of most varieties; and small means ackward, a lot more so than bigger laps or grinders. This is compounded by the knob that holds the wheel on sticking up in the middle of the whole thing. While you only use one side of any flat wheel, taking away the center section makes positioning somewhat impossible with a longer blade, or bigger blade as in a 5" head knife. The glass wheels mount on the machine and sink down to just above a collar that runs around the wheel. I am SURE this is a safety feature, but the damned thing gets in the way if you have a longer tool with a handle. It also takes an inordinate amount of time to get a wheel off the machine. The collar mentioned before blocks getting a hold on the edge of the wheel and lifting it off, no problem if the collar wasn't there. I been thinking of taking a coping saw and cutting about 2/3 of that collar off. We'll see, one day it will tick me off to the point of surgery. I'm going to tell you NOT to get the leather covered wheel for stropping. You always need to strop away from the knife edge to keep from shaving your strop, which happens in a remarkably short time under power. There is just no comfortable or even practical way to do that on a small diameter wheel with a big knob sticking-up in the center. Just use a strop on a piece of wood that you can control. For what I do, a precision lap is overkill, and changing grits is a pure PITA, but this little grinder seems to fit the bill quite well for me. Short edged tools is what this machine is made to do. Art