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Found 15 results

  1. Hello, I posted a similar topic a few years ago and I'm hoping to re-ignite the subject. I've been trying different methods over the years and I still have not found a clear-cut (or even close) method of burnishing thinner (i'm using 4/5 oz) natural leather without the edges being darkened too much and without making a mess of the face of the piece (or the flesh side, for that matter). I really like the look of completely untouched natural leather, so I don't want to put any sort of conditioner/sheen on the face as they all darken the leather at least a shade. I want to keep the natural leather as white/pink as possible with minimal water/paste mess from burnishing. I'm also having somewhat of an issue with the flesh edge of the leather folding over some with the thinner leather. I might be burnishing too quickly after wetting the edge, I don't know. I am using a pro edge burnisher in my drill press which works very well. Methods I've tried: - Just water This solves the edge darkening problem and also solves the mess problem when applied extremely carefully with a dauber or your finger. However, it doesn't give a lasting extra slick finish. - Just liquid Saddle soap This gives a slick finish, but darkens the leather edge a lot and also seems to soak into the leather more, which means messy and uneven looking edges. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water This darkens the edge a bit less (still more than i'd like) and soaks in a bit less, but isn't as slick as just straight up liquid saddle soap. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water, then beeswax, then canvas burnishing. Creates a slick edge, but is very hard to keep clean, and darkens the edge quite a bit. - Gum Tragacanth Creates a good slick edge (one coat is good, two coats is better), but is really really hard to keep clean. Doesn't darken the edge as much as the straight liquid saddle soap, but still darker than I like. One thing I did discover recently is that applying gum trag to the edge with the edge of a toothpick works well for keeping it clean, but is very tedious. Should I maybe burnish the edge with just water first before burnishing with gum trag? would that help keep the trag from seeping onto the face? I guess I'm just hoping that some magician out there has come up with a magical method/product that is easy to apply/won't make a mess/won't darken the edge too much. Haha. I'm also having a hard time with applying beeswax as its hardness makes it difficult to apply a sufficient amount of wax to the edge. I was considering making a mixture of beeswax, olive oil, and eucalyptus oil to stave off mould. I've heard of a beeswax/neatsfoot solution, but would prefer to use olive oil in its place. Does anyone have any experience with a wax/olive oil blend? I prefer not to use any paraffin. Thanks again, Zayne
  2. Hello all, I have been using fiebings pro oil dye on all of my dyed projects. I do like the way that it sits in the leather, but I am the type of person that would much rather use a more natural alternative when it comes to most methods. I have heard about using cold black coffee to darken leather, as well as multiple light coats of extra virgin olive oil left out in the sun. I am more keen to these types of methods. I was wondering if anyone knows of, or has had any experience with, making their own plant based leather dyes? I have heard of people using organic material such as: onions blueberries cedar walnut husks alder blackberries elderberries fern fronds etc... I do have access to these items, but I am unsure of the process in which to get the pigment out of the item, as well as applying the dye, and storage. Edit: Do you think this method would work for dying leather? http://pioneerthinking.com/crafts/natural-dyes Thanks! Zayne
  3. I have searched through the forum to find the answer to this so apologies if it is somewhere and I have not been able to find the answer! Does anyone have suggestions on the best finish to use to maintain the natural, light look of veg tan leather and that won't darken it at all/much? I know the veg tan will darken as it is used but I would like it to happen as naturally as possible. Is it even necessary to use a finish if I am not dying or tooling the leather? I make wallets/cases/bags and am also wondering how necessary it is to use any conditioner. Is a persons natural oils enough to keep the leather from drying? I have tried a few different products such as neatsfoot oil, a nf/beeswax blend, and resolene, but it seems that most darken the leather or leave it with a very unnatural, shiny look. If anyone has suggestions I would appreciate it! Otherwise I'll just keep searching for other products and keep testing and testing. Thank you.
  4. I recently bought some unglazed natural cordovan and I was wondering how can I achieve similar results to horween's finish. I googled aniline leather dyes and I came across aniline leatherworld tech dyes. I never heard of them before and I don't see much mentioned about them from smaller leather communities, but than again I am a newbie to leatherwork. Does anyone have experience with dying cordovan that is willing to lay down some wisdom? Also, what is up with leatherworld tech? Does anyone have experience using their dyes? Thanks to anyone willing to provide info!
  5. Hello everyone, Here are a few pics of my latest bag. It is a commission piece. Customer requested a bag that resembled the Louis Vuitton Greenwich Neo. The bag is made with Horween Natural Chromexcel. Fully hand sewn with beige fil au chinois linen thread (size 432 @ 6spi) There is a shoulder strap, strap to secure this bag to his rolling luggage, luggage tag, padlock with keys and clochette. Riri zipper, polished nickle hardware, cream canvas lining. Thanks for looking Chris
  6. Zombie holster for 1911 pistol.
  7. I have recently gotten an order for a Natural Leather belt. The customer wishes to have a natural belt so that it can patina with wear. This is my first time for an order of a Natural Leather belt, and I am wondering if I should apply any finish to the flesh and grain sides of the belt? I know I should not use an acrylic because that would prevent the oils and waters that create the patina from reaching the leather. But should I apply a layer of Mink oil or neats foot oil to the grain side of the leather? Should I apply a finish like Tan Kote to the flesh side to keep the fibers down? Thank you very much for your time.
  8. Finally almost finished. Been a hellish year. I know the pics will not be oriented correctly. Didn't think about posting them when they were taken. But now I am using them. Still needs a little forming and some super sheen.
  9. Hello, you leather geniuses, you. I am wondering if any of you have discovered any good natural leather adhesives with the same, or similar, holding strength as rubber cement (I currently use weldwood, with the red label). I would prefer something that is store bought, but I am completely open to brewing something up myself. I am sick of the fumes, and I always prefer the more natural route. I've heard that some people use PVA glue for leather on leather bonding, but it takes about 24 hours to set, and time is money. Also, PVA isn't natural. At the moment, the only thing I really use glue for, is to join two pieces of leather together at the edge, so I can set my stitching holes. As always, thank you so much for any advice! Zayne
  10. Hi all, I am having issues getting a nice clean burnish on natural (un-dyed) veg tan. This is my process: I sand with 80 grit to make edges even and square if necessary. Sand edges with medium and then fine. Trim the edges with a tandy edge beveler. Wet the edges with small wool dauber as neatly as I can. Burnish with a wooden hand burnisher (picture below, I wonder if the burnisher I am using isn't the best). Then I add beeswax to the edge, and burnish again with the same wooden burnisher. My problem is, I am not getting a very clean edge. After I put water on the edge and do the first burnish, water leaks or is pushed onto the face of the leather, away from the edge, either by the burnishing, or just by the water itself. It makes the face look messy and the edge not like like a straight edge. This would be easy to hide if I were to dye the leather before my final burnish, but it looks really messy on natural leather, and honestly, I would like to just have a solid method that looks good regardless if I dye or not. I have read hidepounders tutorial on finishing edges, but I don't really want to use the paste or paraffin, I am trying to keep it to beeswax/water, or any other natural product. Thanks!
  11. Hi all, recently cranked out my first bifold and some long wallets in Burgundy CXL and Hermann Oak Veg tan, let me know what you think! Thanks for looking, Kevin
  12. The title is pretty self explanitory. I am wondering how you darken natural leather without the use of dyes or stains. I have a dark brown dye. But to get an even coat without an air brush requires multiple coats and it darkens it a ton. How would I get a light brown color without dying or staining? I would prefer something that started out very light, maybe 2 or 3 shades darker than natural, and got darker with multiple applications. Thanks Zayne
  13. Hi, I've got a question here regarding a few hides of natural vegtable tan steer leather I bought for leather handbags. The leather is very stiff, dry, and pale and the way I have the bag stuctured, a very large piece comprises both the front and the back and needs to remain faily stiff for the structure to work. I plan to sell these at a higher price point and I'm worried about wrinkles that developed at the handle and when I inverted the bag after sewing. What is the best way to prevent at least the intitial wrinkles so it displays nicely? My plan was just to apply tan-kote but it will take a lot. Perhaps a thin layer? Any better suggestions? Thanks, Cameron