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Found 9 results

  1. 111w153

    My singer 111w153 runs well and seems to be adjusted correctly. I still have random dropped/skipped stitches. Alredy done Verified timing adsusted feet changed and checked timing belt changed take up bell crank cleaned and adjusted tension plate verfied bobbin tension adjusted sewing hook guide latch New belt and adjusted clutchmotor still at a loss as to my problem. Could be: thread/needle size timing not right with needle bar IDK... please help
  2. Thread and needle sizes

    I am reading about people using certain needle sizes and thread sizes for various appications in leather work. I cannot find anywhere, any information about what needle to use with what size thread for any specific use, whther it is for hand sewing or machine sewing. Can anyone please direct me to where I can find this info....?
  3. I recently purchased an Omega industrial sewing machine. Upgraded from the 1/3 hp clutch motor to a servo from Techsew. Being inexperienced the clutch motor was scary fast and I liked my fingers the way they were. It only came with one needle, 140/22 is all I could read on it. I will be sewing anything from 2-3 oz. leather to as thick as I can....I've run 8-9 oz. through with no problem. I am using #69 thread through the 140/22 and find it "balling" up underneath and extra thread coming up from the bobbin but not all the time. I guess my question is after much looking through the forums, am I using the proper thread for this needle or am I even using the right needle? I saw in one of the charts that the 135 x 17 is the same size needle; is this correct? I have played with the tensions somewhat but if the needle /thread size may be the issue, I don't want to beat my head against the wall. Any advice would be helpful re needle size vs: thread. The needle #'s are confusing to understand. Thanks in advance!
  4. Thread comparison

    Got some thread in from Bob K, which I been meaning to try for too long now. The natural was a tad darker than I expected, but just barely. No issues with the thread. rolls off the spool quite nicely, lays flat in teh hole. Should have called Bob about thread a year ago Still, I had to do a bit of a test before assailing a project with new toys. While I wouldn't have done a test just for the sake of doing a test, since I DID do it, might as well share the results (seriously, why make a mistake and learn from it when you could just learn from ME making the mistake ?!@#$!). So, tested two pieces of 9 oz HO, no dye no finish no glue. The thread is 346 in teh needle side and 277 in the bobbin side, both natural nylon from Toledo Ind. Note the difference in the appearance, despite using the SAME spi (about 5.5spi), the same thread (346 top / 277 bottom) and the same tension settings. Only thing changed is the needle being used. Top of the leather - thread is 346. Top row shows a 25 needle with an "S" point. Second row shows a 25 needle with an "LL" point. Bottom side of same piece (flipped). The thread is 277.
  5. Hi all, I have a Juki Manufactured Econosew Walking Foot Industrial Sewing Machine with a Servo-Speed Motor. I've only had it a few months and I'm finding the tension to be very difficult to get correct. I have zero experience with industrial machines, especially for leather, so I've been having to figure it out as I go. I live pretty remotely so there's no one near who can come over and show me the ropes. I've spent hours and hours and hours adjusting the top and bottom tensions and I have yet to get it perfect. I discussed this with my mother in law who is a sewing machine genius (but sadly lives across the country) and she suggested that it could be the wrong needle and thread size for the weight of leather I use. Prior to getting the machine I researched here on the forum for needle and thread size for leather and was told to use needle size 22/140 and lubricated nylon thread size 138. However, I think the error is that those are for thicker and heavier leathers. I primarily need the machine for lightweight soft leathers and suedes. Think upholstery weight and sometimes even garment weight. Should I use a smaller needle? Different thread? The lubricated thread I got from http://www.tolindsewmach.com/ seems too slippery for what I sew and also too thin. I'd like thicker thread for the aesthetic. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. Tired of spending hours and getting nowhere.
  6. I'm trying to figure out what the needle size/system is for the Pfaff Dorina Model 18. The manual doesn't say and the needle in the machine reads "schmetz 90" . I'm still trying to figure out these needle size systems. Can anyone help me out? Thanks Ed
  7. I managed to get a new Pfaff 335 straight from the factory, with a servo motor, couldn't be happier, sews like a beast. But there's two issues. First one is my lack of experience. The manual says I shouldn't be using a needle larger than 69 (or 100 metric) but I doubt it's anything more than a recommendation since the machine can sew through 1cm of vegtan easy. I tried the 69 polyester thread but when I sew 10oz leather straps and belts it's just too thin to look nice. So I took a look at some guides and saw that for that particular oz. (3-4mm) I should use thread size 138-277. Is it safe to use on my machine? Or in other words, would you use any needle you can properly mount or just follow the manual and stick to 69? Saw the same Pfaff 335 in Hermes video and they used at least 2x thicker thread on their watch strap... Anyway, more important issue, my servo. I always read the manual so I'm certain I've used it correctly. Problem is, when I choose the program that should be the slowest one the machine runs like crazy. So I thought maybe it's not the motor, maybe the pedal is too sensitive when it comes to switching between the 'programmed' and 'full speed' modes (press lightly for the former, press all the way for latter). So I always end up sewing by pressing and lifting my foot completely, which is obviously annoying and wrong. Is there a guide for adjusting the pedal sensitivity or something else that might help?
  8. Howdy from Farmville, VA! Yes, Farmville is a REAL place:) My husband is a cowboy from TX who enjoys leatherwork, he creates mostly custom tack for our roping horses and can repair just about anything to do with leather. His Singer home machine just broke and we just purchased an old industrial SEIKO machine walking foot and cylinder arm which I believe is a CW-1. It works well but has no paperwork with it. I have been searching for days to find a manual and to try and determine what size needles I should order and what size/type of thread. My husband is old school and did a lot of his work by hand. I need help! Any and all would be appreciated:) I have attached some pics of the machine in case anyone is interested or knows exactly what we have. Thanks!
  9. Hello, leather gurus, artisans, and hacks like me, I have an ooold Brother DB2-B755-3, which is identical to a lot of Juki's I see around, and looked in the .pdf manual that it accepts "DBx1 (DBx5)" needles. I am overwhelmed in confusion about needles and sizing and system and all things surrounding this. I took out the needle it came with because i wanted something smaller so I put in "Schmetz Leather 130/705" and under that it says "110/18". No good, unless i want to perforate leather. Did not make a stitch worth a darn. (see what I did there?!) I've seen all sorts of nonsensical numbers and am trying to hone in on what exactly will work for me. What is the relation between the DBx and the actual needle sizing? What will work for me? Thank you all for not making fun of me. Paul