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About Me

Found 10 results

  1. By the end of the week I am expecting to receive the following in the post: A cheap (Chinese made, with probable Japanese influence) beginner's sett of leather working tools from Ebay A remnant/pieces pack of leather, needles, and thread from The Identity Store A copy of "The Leatherworking Handbook" by Valerie Michael from Amazon Yet to acquire from the local chain DIY store (probably nearer the time, or on Sunday if it slips my mind before then which is likely to happen) are: wood and fixings to make a cheap stitching pony Evo-Stik Time Bond contact adhesive an Oilstone (or similar) for inevitable initial sharpening of previously mentioned tools as well as general upkeep later on miscellaneous things that catch my eye which may be helpful such as clamps, sandpaper, straight edge etc Other things yet to be appropriated into my "kit": worksurface stuff (cutting mat, poly board, granite (or similar)) decent desk lamp as most of my work will be completed in the late evening/small hours after finishing the late shift at "the day job" and goodness knows my eyes will need all the help they can get edge slicking substance graph/grid paper for when I feel up to making my own patterns bone folder type tool stitching awl Things I already have, yet to be consolidated together: poly mallet basic geometry set (ruler, square, compases etc) pencils large toolbox for storage stack of "craft" drawers for storage non-marring spudger set which I'm sure will come in handy for poking/prodding in crevices metal bodied Utility knife (and blades) Extra Virgin Olive Oil in lieu of more specialist finishes tonnes of old clothes for rags Things I will probably get at a later date once I get a feel for everything (this does not include ad hoc replacement/upgrading of any of the above when needed): butcher's block style work station (as I'll mostly be working at my 10yr old pine desk in my bedroom initially, maybe out in the shed weather permitting) relevant dyes, treatments, etc and relevant applicators basic carving tools (I do not plan on getting into this much but I guess it's always handy to be able pop a pretty border on something special) ___ I know the cost of starting a new hobby from scratch is always going to be a major consideration, but it seems leathercraft is even more so. Yes I know it's no good moaning to other people who have all been there/done that, but starting out on a shoe string is still likely to cost me upwards of £100 ($125 for you colonials ). Being the sort of person I am, often doing things on a whim, and generally cautious with cash, I do not want to go to the lengths that some do and get The Works in terms of equipment and materials to start with. I don't want to spend a small fortune on something if I don't end up getting decently into it to justify the cost. That said, it seems the general advice in terms of initial outlay is "get the best you can afford" and that's what I'm doing I suppose. I guess there are those out there who have started out with much less, and I have no need nor reason trying to justify what I'm doing. I guess in a way I'm secretly hoping that I get sufficiently good enough at the whole "leather thing" that in the long run I can start going to fairs, events, do made-to-order and the like, and be able to become (at least partially) self employed. But that's definitely a long way off. I think for me leathercraft will always be a matter of being on a shoestring, at least in the sense of trying to get the best from the least. I've always been enthralled by the way craftsmen of all disciplines in years gone-by have come up with ingenious solutions which even centuries or millennia haven't changed much, and as much as possible I want to keep what I do "low-tech": drawing up templates by hand rather than using PC software, using as traditional methods and tools as possible, and if possible trying to be authentic in style/process with any historical based pieces I produce. I (like to think) I am fairly good at improvising, and this will also keep costs down. Who needs a £40 edge slicker when a double-pronged piece of deer antler (free if you know where/when to look) will do? Or expensive black dyes if you can master the likes of vinegaroon and lampblack?
  2. Me and a friend both bought springfield armory xdm 9mm with suppressor heigth sights and added streamlight tlr1 weapon lights. Problem . No one makes a holster to accomodate yet. So i made this test pair. I will be making some adjustments to the pattern soon and making another pair but works pretty good so far. Also you can see stitching is not quite completed when i took these.
  3. Me and a friend both bought springfield armory xdm 9mm with suppressor heigth sights and added streamlight tlr1 weapon lights. Problem . No one makes a holster to accomodate yet. So i made this test pair. I will be making some adjustments to the pattern soon and making another pair but works pretty good so far. Also you can see stitching is not quite completed when i took these.
  4. Stumbled across this picture on the web somewhere.. guy claiming that one is thicker than the other and thus his was "better". In under a minute, let me show you why it doesn't matter Here's the picture. Somebody was claiming that the one on the right was somehow "thinner" and thus "more concealable" (and it's debated on a number of gun forums). BUT ... In both 'versions', the gun is the same thickness. And there are two layers of leather, one front and one back. And that's it. The gun thickness plus two layers of leather, is the same either way. While they can be made to RIDE differently, just changing which piece gets the molding will obviously NOT change the thickness of the holster. When worn, there could be a little air space between teh wearer and the holster, especially close to the firearm. But the holster where the gun is will be against the hip (in both cases) and the thickness is the same, so they protrude the same amount. So what's the point? Molding in the front panel, or molding both panels to the middle, SAME thickness.
  5. Here's a new holster with a lizard inlay (from the Springfield Leather scrap bag). It's Fiebing's mahogany oil dye, Ritza 1.0mm cream thread. I was especially trying to keep clean edges and stitching on this one. Always something to improve! All the best, Tanner @claridge_leather (Instagram)
  6. Here's my latest little project-- this makes it pretty nice to carry that half pound brick of a multitool. Plus, I can't resist making a sheath or holster for every knife and gun I own (probably like many of you)! Cheers! Tanner
  7. Here is my first revolver holster- a gift for my Dad. He likes to inlay a Montana coin in his woodworking projects, so I thought I'd do the same for his holster. Thanks to everyone here for all the tips I have gleaned over the past months as I've taken up leatherwork. My learning curve has been shortened considerably thanks to all the expertise offered here. What a great community! God bless, Tanner
  8. A friction pancake sheath for a Leatherman Blast. Made of 2,5 mm veg tan, dyed with vinegaroon and hand stuffed with a mix of tallow, beeswax and extra virgin olive oil. Front piece was moulded on the multitool and it's my first attempt at boning. It has great retention. I tried turning it upside down and shaking it, won't come off even though it's quite heavy (6,9 oz. / 196 g). On the belt. Also, a couple pictures of the process. Had to scrap that one. The bottom was too narrow. Cheers
  9. Finished this Saturday, fully lined. I followed a pattern i ordered from SLC. It's only my second pancake type.