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Found 14 results

  1. Hello, So, I've been wanting to SEE a good comparison between Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig, there is a lot of people somewhat DESCRIBING the differences (or lack thereof), but I have not found anyone having actually documented it with photos/video. So, I received some swatches from W&C the other day, and decided I'd upload some pictures for reference. I have been only using Grade A Hermann Oak (yes, true Grade A). I was excited to hear that Wickett & Craig's tooling leather is lighter in color, and that they have no minimums straight from the tannery! I have to say, though; I am a little concerned with the flesh side quality of the swatch I received. The big thing I've taken away from HO's Grade A tooling leather is that the flesh side is always very tight and the fibers seem to be very short and consistent across the back. I was hoping that would be the case for Wickett & Craig's top grade leather, but the quality isn't quite the same for the flesh side. The flesh side of the W&C tooling swatch seems to be looser, the fibers seem to be a bit longer and inconsistent. Not a HUGE difference, but a difference, nonetheless. Now, I wrote the sales manager regarding the quality, assuming that the swatches that they used were just from scraps and aren't of their "Standard" or "Top grade" quality. The response I received was this: "The flesh will not be a problem Zayne. I'm sure it is just where they clicked the swatch?" Im not exactly sure that means, but I'm assuming it has something to do with them cutting out the swatch with a press, and it just doesn't seem like thats what would have caused the flesh side to be the way that it is. Anyway, have a look at the photos I uploaded. Again, I don't know for sure if the tooling swatch W&C sent me is factually top grade, but the sales manager didn't say that it was or wasn't when I asked him, hence the response. So, I'm assuming that the swatch I was sent IS their top grade, unless one of you can prove me wrong! In one of the pictures, I included the flesh side of the "Oak Skirting" swatch I was sent with all the other swatches from W&C. The flesh side of this one really scares me. It reminds me of the first cheap side of leather I purchased from Tandy. I'm really hoping this isn't W&C's "Standard" quality. Please prove me wrong! P.S.- I am in no way trying to throw shade at Wickett & Craig, I actually do prefer the lighter color of their tooling leather compared to Hermann Oaks. I'm really just looking to provide some information and hopefully gain some insight in return.
  2. I have an opportunity to buy some Craftools that are 10-15 years old. Some may be older. Will these tools be any better quality than what Tandy is selling today? How can I tell if a Craftool is the older and better quality tool? When did the quality change...I read some old threads and some members mentioned 1960's. Thanks in advance!
  3. I am looking at upgrading from my Adler 105/64 to a unison feed machine, as I need to be able to have something that will deal with changes in thickness. As I live in Portugal, I have some of the problems that others have voiced about dealer availability. Anything imported here from outside the EU attracts a 23% tax on the item plus postage, and often there is a 10% import duty to pay as well.So I will be buying within Europe, and have already contacted Sieck, Frank Brunner, and some others in the UK.My choice may well be between a well known make such as Hightex, but not set up for leather, or a less well known/regarded one such as Kingmax, which will be set up for leather. PRICE VS QUALITY. There is a huge difference in price between the genuine article, and the Chinese copy. As a retired engineer, I have always wondered where those cost savings have come from. Some will be the possibly artificial exchange rate, plus a lower labour cost. The rest will be "corner cutting"- lower or wider material specifications,lower tolerances on machining and finish specifications, plus more variability on heat treatment.(my pet hate- I cannot get sewing pins that do not either break or bend!!) Also eliminating or combining as many parts as possible will reduce manufacturing cost. TECHIE STUFF n my perusal of posts on this forum, I have found comments like "no timing marks" for clone machines. Is this really true for the Hightex (which is one of the makes I am looking at)? For me this is a difficulty, as I will be doing my own maintenance, plus possibly having to do the setting up for sewing leather. I have downloaded both the Juki 441 manual and parts list (thanks to whomever put them up), and have looked closely at what is involved in doing the settings.I am pretty good mechanically, and do all my own machinery repairs, and have done the settings on my current machines successfully with the help of the appropriate manuals. There are a number of components that have setting marks on them for the genuine Juki 441.Are any of them on the clones? The parts in question are :- mainshaft, shuttle race body, and conrod eccentric cam. How have people coped without those marks, other than trial and error, with many hours of sweat and frustration?Also, the settings in the manual are for the blanket stitch feed dog and foot, not the smooth leather ones.Is there going to be a difference-I did note that the manual states their settings are a "starting point". What are peoples' experiences with "cheesy screws"? Which ones must be replaced with ones made of decent metal, or has the quality improved enough not to need this?Are the screw sizes REALLY Imperial, not metric? CONCLUSION I suppose this is a "try to find out what I am letting myself in for", buying a clone 441, that may not be set up for sewing leather. I am well aware of the potential learning curve that might be involved,(or not) but I prefer to have advance warning from those that have gone before- hence my questions. As I am a hobby leather worker, I cannot justifiy the extra cost of the genuine item, and used ones are in the hens teeth category, or silly money.(Unless someone knows different!)
  4. Hi LeatherWorker.net family, I am looking for an individual or company to produce high quality winter mittens for me. I have samples and a few patterns of what I am looking for exactly. Please move this thread if it is in the incorrect category. PM me if you are interested in more information. Thank you!
  5. I am lacking expertise in leather making and would appreciate your comments. Exhibit A is showing the overall look of the bag. The whole bag is made of ~2 mm thick leather (easy to fold for storage). Shoulder straps are ~4 mm. Exhibit B shows the main problem with the front buckles: (i) they are too thin (~2 mm) and therefore bend (ii) they have no stitching on the edges further compromising the rigidity. It makes the buckle hard push through the loop, as it constantly bends, it also looks ... em "unfinished". Exhibits C and D also show "flaps" of the bag that have no stitching on the sides. Again, in my eyes, this makes the bag feel "unfinished", although I am not sure how functionally justifiable this intuition is. I am considering for asking for corrections to be made and would appreciate an unbiased professional opinion.
  6. Hi guys I receive my leather today, double shoulder veg tan of 1mm approximately. This is my first leather and.I would like some comments on it. For some reason i didnt like it. Regards Demetris
  7. i'm a new leatherworker in Thailand, here, I cannot find any good quality hardware stores. Where could I find some good quality hardware (as brass or copper button studs, fasteners, snap plates, magnetic bag clasp plate etc.) online in Asia? I heard that HONGKONG is the best place, is it right?
  8. Did I Get Bad Veg-Tan?

    I recently bought a side of Veg-tan from Weaver leather, and had it cut into 3/4" straps for making a bulk order of camera straps for a customer. When I received the leather straps (side) I started looking them over and most of them have a good 40-50" of quality leather, then it starts to degrade into this more fibrous portion that feels like its delaminating. Is this normal as whole sides go, or did they sell me a bullshit side of leather, cut it up and hope I'd not notice? I'll post pics as soon as I get home from the office, but I was hoping to get 2 straps out of each single weaver cut strap, but because of this nasty portion of leather it doesn't look like I'll be able to, on almost every long strap... Did I get a side with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_rot_%28leather%29 that isn't red?
  9. Hermann Oak Full Grain?

    This might be a stupid question, but, does anyone know if Hermann Oak's Grade A tooling leather is full grain or top grain? I am assuming it is full grain, considering that "A" is their highest grade, I'm just not 100% sure. Thanks Zayne
  10. High Quality Hardware

    Hi Everyone Is there anywhere in the UK where I can buy high quality hardware for purses and bags? Such as closure hardware. Instead of having to buy from American or Italian suppliers! I've looked at the usual suppliers such as Tandy Leather UK and other suppliers. But I'm not finding anything unique on these sites or quality. Many Thanks VRSDesigns
  11. Hi. My name is Samuel and i am a Leather smith going on 20 years. i have been working leather as an apprentice since the age of 8 and as i grew so did my love for leather work. i have started my own leather crafting buisness and need help. i figured i would run a kickstater and try and get crowd funded. i have made a kickstyarter and took it live yesterday the 8th of august. i figured i woudl turn to the leather community to help spread the word... please copy and paste this link into your facebook, just that little shout out could be the diffrence between not getting funded and making it. if you have some time and wanna check it out please do there is a small 2 minute video of me making a wallet. thnak you for all the help and comemts that will come https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/529482776/slims-wallets-light-sleek-and-functional thats the ling. -Sam <iframe width="480" height="360" src="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/529482776/slims-wallets-light-sleek-and-functional/widget/video.html" frameborder="0" scrolling="no"> </iframe> <iframe frameborder="0" height="420" scrolling="no" src="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/529482776/slims-wallets-light-sleek-and-functional/widget/card.html?v=2" width="220"></iframe>
  12. Econosew

    does anyone know how the quality is on the econosew machines im looking at a1508nh whitch is the same as the juki 1508nh , just looking at some input, i will save about 1000,00 on this setup i have a cowboy 4500, and im looking to get a flat bed that can do liter work.. thanks nelson
  13. I am new to leatherworking. I bought a 6 oz side of discount Veg Tan from Tandy and a 4 oz Veg Tan shoulder. I have been working with them both, and while the shoulder quality doesnt seem too bad. The side could be better. The flesh side seems really uneven and full of long fibers. I don't know if thats a normal thing or not. I hear tandys leather isnt that great overall. I hear amazing things about horweens chromexcel, among others, but I'm assuming it is really expensive. I also have heard that springfeild has some decent leather. All in all, I want to buy some good quality leather without spending a ton of money for making belts, collars, wallets, key fobs, etc... What are some good suggestions? Thanks Zayne
  14. Hello, This question is for those who have worked with Springfield's "Top Grade Tooling Sides" and Wickett & Craigs tooling sides (Or Hermann Oak). I am wondering if there is a visible difference in quality between the two? I will not be carving at all, just cutting shapes and sewing and riveting, so I am looking for a leather that will look great. I have been using Springfield's for a while and have been very happy with it. So - is it worth it to pay a few dollars more for the Wickett just based on the final look? Thanks!