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Found 56 results

  1. I have had this saddle for a few months, purchased it from a collector vintage western. Has no makers mark. I believe it to be a custom. This saddle wights about 55lbs has a horn width of 7" 16 seat rawhide wrapped tree, builtin saddle bags and a skirt length of 28" Any ideas out there about this saddle?
  2. Restoring saddles in California

    Hi, I am new to leatherworking. I have bought an old saddle for almost nothing, and I am taking it apart and refurbishing it, and (hopefully) putting it back together. I need lots of help with types of leather, what glue to use, how to stitch, what type of shearling to use, and I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future. I am happy to have found this community and all of you experienced folks.
  3. Saddle Repair/Modification

    Hello, leather workers! My saddle never really fit me that great because of a large build-up on the front of the seat. My farrier wants me to repair some of his saddles so I thought that I'd better start with my own. I took the old seat off and skived off a lot of the annoying bulk. I then put a new seat on (rough-out this time). The next few days I covered 21 miles with it and then lightly skived the top where I felt needed skiving. I also added 4 conchos with latigo lace and replaced the lace that holds the ends of the skirts. I am hoping that doing some saddle repair will help introduce myself into the saddle-making world. I am sorry to say I did not get a before pic. Please feel free to criticize. -Ryan
  4. Random Flat Stitches in Saddle Stitch

    Hi all, Working on my first large scale saddle stitching project (a tote bag) and I'm really trying to do a good job. It's going pretty well and looks nice and slanted on the front. I'm doing a decent job of carrying that slant on the backside too, but every once in a while I'm getting a random flat stitch in the middle of my slanted stitches. When I find these stitches, I'm unpicking my way back to them and redoing them (mostly successfully), but I can't figure out what I'm doing to create them in the first place. Does anybody have any ideas? I've circle one such stitch in the attached photo.
  5. Hello, I am posting on here for some advice and help. I am very new to working with leather and am hoping to be able to fix this old saddle and get it back to functional light use. I am wondering if anyone has any recommendations for replacing the fender and what kind of leather to use. I've seen the new replacement fenders that you can buy already cut and ready, but I'm not sure if maybe that is the best route to go? I would like to get it looking as close to the other fender, if possible, but it is not completely necessary. I have not tooled before and am uncertain that I would be able to match the tooling pattern. Anyway, I was hoping to use it as a project learning opportunity. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
  6. Rifle Saddle Scabbard

    Hi, Can anyone tell me where I can get a pattern for a 1876 lever action, with a 28" barrel. I believe this is a 44-60 Bicentennial Limited Edition. Any advice would be welcome. This is my first post, so many thanks. Steve
  7. saddle fleece

    does any one have personal experience with synthetic fleece . who sells the best and what type of glue is suggested?. thanks
  8. saddle fleece

    does any one have personal experience with synthetic fleece . who sells the best and what type of glue is suggested?. thanks
  9. Help please! I'm trying to sell this saddle and need help identifying it. No maker's mark anywhere on it. I think it was bought for barrel racing purposes, given the seat, but am wondering if I'm wrong and it should be listed as a pleasure/trail saddle. Does anyone know its maker and/or can identify its proper classification?
  10. Saddle Purse Pattern?

    A friend of mine is requesting a purse similar to this. I realize its a lot of work, and there are techniques I need to learn. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thank you, so much!
  11. Hello, I'm looking for a trusted saddle maker to make me a quality custom saddle. I'm looking for a tough ranch saddle with swells, roughout seat and round skirt. Preferably on the lighter side, but heavy duty. I'm 17 and only work part time so I'm trying to not pay much more than $1,000-$1,500. Any ideas of someone who could make me something like that in my price range? Thanks in advance!
  12. Is anyone at all familiar with the Sage Brush Saddle Shop in Texas? I cannot find any information online or elsewhere. I am looking at a saddle that I have little to no information about other than what is in the pictures. It is a rawhide wrapped wood tree, the leather appears to be thick and supple and the stitching is tight, neat and straight. Does anyone know anything about the maker? Or can anyone offer any insights on the apparent quality of the saddle? Anything would be appreciated! Thank you
  13. Gusset Problemo

    Hello Guys, I need your help to clarify my head from this "gusset problem". I'll try to keep it short in my story and case. I try to make a card case with gusset. Material : 3 oz vegetable tan leather I've already watch how to count the leather gusset to measure the body and how to stitch it with the main body in nigel armittage video on you tube. So he shows how to hole the leather using the awl, after you hole the other side with the diamond prong. Its true because after you glue the gusset and body, it will be difficult or even impossible to hole it with diamond prong. If I hole one side and the the other side separately, the hole won't be match (because the gusset is curved) So here's what I do: 1. Cut Gusset and measure the body. 2. Using V gouge from ebay (not really a v gouge) - V Gouge I used - with 0.5 cm mark from edge (for folding) on gusset part. 3. Hole the Gusset with 0.3 cm stitching mark from edge (because the curve its on the gusset). 4. Attach the body and the gusset. 5. Using the awl to hole the body from hole in the gusset (step #3) - failed #1 - the hole is zig-zag not straight. note: already sharpen the awl but still hard to penetrate the leather from gusset to body (trouble with motion, to narrow). 6. Stitching - failed #2 - why it pulled inside? Am I pulling the thread to tight? 7. Finish but when I look at the edge - failed #3 - 8. DONE I have think several cause about this "failure": (list of thoughts) 1. Maybe the Gouge not proper? Should I fold it with water after cut and gouge? 2. The material 3 oz leather is not proper for gusset? 3. Should I mark the gouge 1 cm instead 0.5? So the gap can make me easier for stitching? 4. Should I mark the body first instead of the gusset? (but in this case the gusset have a curve, not the body) *** I haven't done my "list of thoughts" with action because I'm afraid to waste another material. So before my next experimental, I hope you guys can help me, share your thoughts about this case. Maybe you have already done this and know the trick to stitch the gusset more easy? Just preview my thread it looks like a journal. Sorry for my bad english ^_^
  14. We are selling out our complete shoe repair and custom bootmaking shop in Poplar Bluff, Mo. We have two post machines that are like new, bought from Nick o Sew a couple years ago, one single needle, one double needle. There is also a Boss Tippman that is still just like new bought only a year ago. The rest of the shop equipment is older but in good working condition. There are 250 pairs of cowboy boot lasts and shoe lasts on which 7 toe styles can be made...some barely used. Full size runs with widths from AA to EEE or wider are represented in most styles. There are lots of supplies including thread, soling leather, rubber soling, heel bases and lifts, upper leathers and even some exotics. Would like to sell as a complete package. Buyer must come to the shop and arrange moving. Call 573-686-4545. No calls after 9pm central time please. I will not respond to texts. I can email detailed photos upon request. Asking price for complete shop package is $15,000. Let`s talk.
  15. Saddle Makeover

    Looking for advice on what I can do with this saddle! Is there anyway to deglaze the seat and dye it another color? I am hoping to take it to a dark brown or mahogany color if possible. Also, the basket stamp portion on the skirt and pommel has a glittery finish - yes, GLITTER! Is there anyway I can remove this? I love this saddle - it is very comfortable and I use it all the time for barrel racing but it is just plain tacky! Any advice is appreciated!
  16. Hello everyone, I've been asked to sell a saddle for a friend and I'm looking for some information about what the price might be or where to go in Colorado that might be able to tell me more or buy it. I know that it has seen better days and has been used quite a bit. This is a Heiser saddle from 1880-1920 with a nickle horn and it looks like there used to be a crest in the seat that is too worn to read. I haven't been able to find any information online with these saddles having the nickle horn. Thank you for any help you might be able to provide.
  17. I will be teaching SADDLE CONSTRUCTION design and patterning, using concepts that can be applied to other areas of construction--- including holsters, knife sheaths, saddle bags, rifle scabbards, and various cases. There are only a few seats left for both classes; however there are several openings for just the first day. Day 1 is Lecture and Demonstration. I will teach you how to take a sketch of your concept / idea and translate it to a functional design, and then to usable patterns. If you can only attend the first day, you will still go away with all of the hand-outs, notes, and a plan and method. You should be able to go home and create your own patterns after only taking this class. Day 2 is Application---I will help you make your own patterns for your own tree. You will go home with patterns! Call me with questions. 307-272-1881. http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=851 http://www.leathercraftersjournal.com/product.cfm?product=852
  18. older tippman aerostitch

    All books, older pneumatic machine. Serviced about 5 yrs ago, used a bare handful of times since. Don't need it. Asking $2500 obro. Located in central indiana.
  19. Here is a few of my tips for getting your sewing to look like it was machine stitched. I took a few photos and a video, to hopefully show and explain it a bit better.... As you all know a saddle stitch is very nice looking and is accomplished by threading a needle on each end of the thread. The rule of thumb I use for measuring my piece of thread is slightly more than 3 times the length of your stitching. 3 times the length is how much thread you will use and the little more gives you enough thread to pass the needle into the thread to lock it as you work, and when you get to the end of your piece you have enough thread to backstitch to lock your sewing in place with no nasty looking knots. EG... if your piece to be stitched is 4" long, then you would cut a piece of thread that is 14" long (3 times 4" is 12" with 2" left over to lock the needle and backstitch). You start with your first hole by pushing one needle into the first hole, and pull the thread through until you have EQUAL amounts of thread on either side of your work. Now your ready to start stitching. It is always best to work from right to left, or left to right, but ALWAYS maintain that direction. Imagine your piece of work on a stitching pony in front of you... you have one needle in your right hand, and one in your left to help explain it. In this case I am working from right to left, meaning I push the right needle in first, then push the left needle through. Once you snug up the thread, you start into the next hole with the needle that is now on the right. When doing this, you should notice your right thread is always BEHIND your left thread. This is the key to making it look like it was machine sewn, and getting an even sturdy stitch. Push the right needle through and pull the thread a bit. Then push the LEFT needle through in FRONT of the thread you just pushed through. When pulling the thread tight, always pull the needles from ABOVE the threads in the holes, and when pulling the left needle, make sure it is between and above the threads in the work. The video and pictures below should help to explain this a bit better if I have confused you with my instructions.
  20. I have two western saddles that I purchased used that have a similar type of damage. Apparently the previous owners used a saddle rack that was peaked rather than rounded and when the saddle was pulled off the rack the underside of the seat was torn, exposing galvanized metal underneath. I don't expect this will ever have an effect on the function or life of the saddle but it looks terrible. Any thoughts on how to repair this? I was initially thinking about moistening and stretching the ends back together and just stitching it but there is some of the original material missing now. I have never built a saddle or disassembled one to repair it.
  21. Hello All - I am a new member, and this is my first post. I'm excited to begin learning from this community. I have an antique bicycle saddle that has split on the "nose," where it was riveted to the metal subframe. I'm debating whether or not I should try to reconnect the leather in this area, but do not want to experiment anything with the process. The value of the saddle is ~$300, so I do not want to risk devaluing it. Having said that, I've been looking around and seen a few products advertised to "glue" leather (Tear Mender). Would this be a safe method to use? In addition to this, should I use any other products to glue the leather to the steel subframe...was considering some kind of epoxy for this because it will be hidden once the leather itself is mended. Finally, is there anything I can use to fill the joint and color to match the rest of the leather? (see 2nd photo) I will not ever actually use this saddle to ride on, so I am not concerned with any weight stresses that would otherwise occur. The bike will only sit on display. Please see the photos below and let me know your thoughts! Thank you!
  22. Covering The Pommel

    Was hoping someone could help me with either how you cover and have the stitching on the inside or what time of leather to use that will stretch and not have to stitch it at all.
  23. New in box. Asking $1000. This is the newer aluminum model. Material guide ($120), Left presser foot, right presser foot, and center presser foot ($37 each) also available. Could make a deal to throw them in, if you're interested... This is a cool little stitching machine, but I recently decided to combine workshops and tool-share with a fellow leather-working friend who already owns one. Email me at Leathertammy@gmail.com
  24. I will be doing a saddle flocking course / girth strap course on 10/10/15. The cost for this 4 day course will be £220 normal price £400 Details can be found on our website http://www.uksaddlery.com/saddleflocking.html We have a total of 6 spaces available A £50 deposit will be required to secure a place on the course For more details email sales@uksaddlery.com or call 07929 947996
  25. Hi folks, Today I got crazy and decided to make an iPhone case with sew on tag (label). This meant to be a gift for my sister and she is a huge fan of Star Wars theme. Most icon character is Darth and I decided to make it with my new Amy Roke pricking irons in size 8 spi and Barbour thread 18/3 in natural colour. To be honest I should to choose 18/4 as it's looks much better with those irons. To find a picture, print it out, transfer it on the leather, punch through, saddle stitch, crease all the lines around and finish edges in aluminium colour took me almost 3 hours which is not bad at all. There is a pad on the inside cut from soft nappa skin. This will give more 3d look on the final item. So tomorrow need to prepare a case-pouch for the phone and to stitch this on top. P.S.: It's raining. Again. Aleks from London