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Found 56 results

  1. Overpriced Stamps?

    Am I crazy or is $40 for a James Linnell 1/2" stamp seem a bit steep for a single stamp? I thought Tandy was bad at $27 for their top of the line stamps... Is there an alternative source for the dragon scale patterns? If I were to spend that much on a single stamp, I would end up stamping EVERYTHING with it to justify the cost... LOL
  2. Basketweave stamped bracelets

    Just finished making these three bracelets, they’re pretty simple but a good chance for me to learn some stamping. Still not got the hang of it, especially bevelling the borders and getting enough depth for definition on the basketweave. But I can see why people like doing it. Sort of. The bracelets are two layers, a 2mm veg-tan shoulder for the tooling and a .8mm calfskin liner of the inside, glued and stitched together. Stitching straight lines is getting a bit easier, always going to need more practice there. Quite pleased with the burnishing on these. Feedback and critique is very welcome
  3. If we use a say oval shape to have a design say basketweave inside, how do we get nice sharp edges to the stamp design when only using a part of the stamp, i.e. angled stamp so it goes right up to the border line When I try it with a tilted stamp the end result is a sharp design at one end and fading all the way to where it's lifted
  4. Hello all, Forgive me if this has been covered. I am sure it has been at some point. I am having some brass stamps made so I can do some hot stamping. I currently stamp my makers mark and some requested stamping patterns with a shop press. I am wanting to use an arbor press for accuracy in layout. I plan on buying something inexpensive and having a machine shop bore out the arbor for an insert. My question is does anyone known the thread size and pitch of the most commonly available dies for setting snaps/rivets etc. The insert I have made will be threaded as appropriate and I also want to advise my brass stamp maker on what size rod to make fit the brass stamps. If I am thinking right, the rod that the brass stamps thread onto could be the same size as the insert that will go into the bored hold and fasten with a set screw. The same bored hole will accept the insert that is tapped for the snap setting dies. Clear as mud? Any help you might offer is greatly appreciated as well as a source for good quality snap setter dies. I know Tandy sells them but non sure if they are worth buying or if there is a better option. Thanks in advance, Scott
  5. What do folks use for temporary backing for preventing stretch during carving/stamping/embossing of cased leather? Most of my work is < 3" wide and includes belts, straps and long narrow cases. Thanks! Bob
  6. I have a group of tools I am looking to sell as one lot. 19 pieces total. $50+ shipping. These are brand new tools. I may have used a couple of them once. They are in great condition and ready for use! Email me Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com I can send more photos if you need. Another photo....
  7. Hi forum! It's been a long while, but I figured I would post a couple pics of a holster I made recently for an XD. It was fun making it, not happy with the way the tooling came out, but the customer liked it-- I guess that's what really matters. This is the 2nd holster I made, so any feedback on the tooling or if you have a comment about it, please let me know! Thanks for viewing, -JW
  8. I’m here to confess my curiosity about Stricking / Tooling Sticks, along with my lack of knowledge about them. I am hoping this community can help me to understand the construction and use of these sticks so I can reproduce one or two for myself. I am very excited to try tooling with one. I have some these sticks that similar to a maul. Others I’ve seen are 18” to 20” long. Some with both ends square and a handle in between, others with square end and tapered to the opposite end. I’m somewhat confused as to the use of the longer version. Questions: 1). Is the extra length just there for counter balance? Also used like a maul? 2). Or is the extra length used of the lever point, using it and the elbow resting on the table as the pivot point? I have purchase enough Katalox I believe to make a long and a short version, but need your help/input before I can make the first cut. Thank you Tane
  9. A friend from out of state has offered to sell me an old kwikprint press that he picked up years ago but never used. He says that it heats up fine but that's all he knows about it. I looked into parts for it and they are expensive. Can anyone tell from the photo if this machine is complete and what would be a fair price for it? Any insight would be appreciated.
  10. Impressions on Buffalo Leather

    Hey guys, my name is Ben Sharrett and I'm new to the forum. Ive been doing leatherwork for about 6 months now and recently purchased some buffalo leather to make some coasters out of. Upon receiving the leather I noticed it had a very shiny coating on it that has prevented me from stamping with a hammer or burning with a heating source. I also tried sanding the finish off of some pieces and it still didn't work well. Is there anything I can do in order to be able to use my custom stamps on these? Thanks! Ben
  11. Hey guys, so I finally gave in and figured I'd better get one of those fancy presses for my stamping. Now, which one do i get? I am pretty set on 1ton press, but most of them seem little toys. Any recommendations? Much appreciated! M.
  12. stamping logo on leather

    Hi gang, I'm wanting to create a fairly basic 2D logo. I'm looking for tips on ways that are the most cost effective but will still mark the leather permanently. Stamping? Cutting? Burning? I have been looking into customized 2D stamps, but they are quite pricey. Though I'm sure they are a good future investment, I'm wondering if there is an alternative. This stock photo is similar to the design I will be making, with a small crescent moon. Thanks!
  13. Angle for Basketweave

    I hope this isn't a redundant question but I have been researching for two days and can't find answer. What determines the direction (down to the right or down to the left) of the basketweave? Or is there only one correct direction? Hope this question makes sense to someone out there and thank in advance for any advice. Paul
  14. Mauls

    I was just wondering what weight mauls do you prefer to use?
  15. Hi, I'm a newbie here although I have visited this forum for a long time. Can anyone help me? I have just had a custom maker's stamp made and although I get a good impression on natural untreated veg tan, I can't make the stamp work on my treated brown veg tan leather. I am using a rubber mallet to hit the stamp and I have tried heating it with a specially adapted soldering iron but it still isn't working for me. I wondered if I should buy an arbor press, but I don't want to invest in one if it is going to be a waste of money, as all I want to do with it is to make a good impression with my custom stamp. I haven't yet tried dyeing my natural veg tan to a darker colour, and I am wondering if my maker's stamp will still show up as clearly after dyeing. Any advice will be much appreciated. Thanks
  16. I have a Tandy 32418-00 Imprinting Machine with a lot of attachments. Before I put it on Ebay, I would like to offer it up here. What would be a fair price?
  17. This MANUAL HOT STAMPING MACHINES (220v, imported) is brand new, we started the leather project but fail. It is good for making leather logo. APPLICATIONS: FOIL-STAMP, DEBOSS, LEATHER, PLASTIC, WOOD, VINYL, PAPER, RIBBONS, ETC. Capable of printing products like leather bags, upholstery, books, binders, document folders, stationary, napkins, cards, plastic badges, acetate, albums, bibles, wallets, pencils, award ribbons, and much more. $850
  18. stamping backgrounds

    Hey all! I've only been working with leather for just under a year but I've taken to it rather quickly and I'm really loving it, especially leather carving and tooling - likely due to my past experience with woodcarving - but I'm really having a hard time using background tools properly. I can't seem to figure out how to blend the impressions of the background stamps cleanly, or how to keep the color in the the background consistent - some spots are always a bit more bruised and dark than others even though I try to keep the pressure of my strikes uniform. I would really appreciate any tips, advice, pointers and/or links to videos and tutorials. I've watched a lot of youtube vids but can't seem to find anything that really helps me in this department. Thanks so much! I look forward to learning from everyone here. Meg
  19. Stamping Deer Hide?

    All, I'm rather new to this hobby, so I apologize if this question is rather naive. I've been working with some basic kits and belt blanks that were all the standard veg-tanned leather. I'm working on my first custom design where I'm going to make a partial dash cover for my truck. Our family spends a lot of time hunting/fishing/etc and I thought about trying to use deer hide rather than the standard veg-tanned leather. Does deer hide stamp well in a similar manner as veg-tanned? How tough is it to work with? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  20. Tool/stamp A Watchband?

    Hi Everybody! Is it possible to make your own watch band and tool or stamp it? If so what is the thinnest leather that can be tooled/stamped? Also does anyone know of a place to get free watch band templates? Thanks and stay awesome!
  21. Mathmatics Of Border Stamping

    Does anyone have a formula for the curvature of a border stamp? what the minimum radius possible for a stamp based on the length of the bottom edge of the stamp? Does that formula hold true for the meander style stamps as well? I am trying to meander a border and am unable. I am attempting to figure the minimum radius i can bend around using the double stamp ( same stamp just top and bottom of edging) Any help would be appreciated.
  22. I have been fabricating a hot stamping machine in my spare time. My goal is to build an air operated unit at least as competent as the $3,400 Kwik Print 86A/A. Time will tell. Phase One consists of building the heating unit. I will not be held responsible if you attempt to build one of these yourself, which you absolutely shouldn’t do. Heat embossers are made of electricity and extreme pressure and heat and danger and you can burn your house down, maim yourself, and/or electrocute yourself if you don’t know what you’re doing. Don’t do that. Phase One — the heater The Kwik Print 86 A/A uses an air circuit to deliver up to 1 ton of pressure through a Bimba air cylinder to an OEM ram to which the chase and heater are attached. The machine uses a 400W strip heater and Ulanet Robo Temp. I suspect Kwik Print uses Ulanet heaters and the Ulanet Robo Temp pulsating on/off controller because they’re American made. They’re expensive and I don’t care where my components were made. Maybe you do. My machine uses a 300W cartridge heater and Inkbird PID with solid state relay and thermocouple. The advantages of a PID and thermocouple are that (a) they’re cheap as dirt ($37 delivered from Amazon Prime), and ( once tuned, they’re very stable. My cartridge heater was less than $8 delivered from Amazon Prime. 300W is probably over-spec’d. The arbor press Until I build the frame for the air cylinder, I’m using my Famco 2 ton to test the heating unit. I made absolutely certain to over tighten the press’s guides so that the ram will stay raised. ANY skin contact with the heating plate will result in a second degree burn. The ram has a ½” hole with set screw drilled into its end. The heater The heating plate consists of a stainless steel block large enough to accommodate any embossing die I can see myself using. It’s tapped for a ½” stainless rod that fits into the end of ram. I used a vertical knee mill to dimension it and drill/ream holes for a cartridge heater and thermocouple. The heater hole (red leads) needs to be accurate within a few thousandths for maximum efficiency. The thermocouple hole (silver lead) is tapped to accept the unit’s threaded flange. Mounting and registering dies The embossing die is attached to the heating plate with a piece of 3M heat activated tape. Registration is simple. When the heater is cool, place your work piece on the press with the tape-covered die positioned where you want it. Slight pressure will leave a non-permanent mark on the leather showing you where the die is. Use a pencil to mark the edges of the piece. Slide the piece out of the way without disturbing the die or you have to start over. Place the edges of straight pieces of card stock on your registration lines and hold them down with some hard drive magnets. Don’t worry about the magnets being tall enough to hit the heating plate. Foil stamping dies are taller. Turn on your PID and get the die up to temp. You’ll have to experiment with temperature settings based on the leather and foil you’re using. Gently lower the ram so that it comes in contact with the taped die — always make sure that the leather you used to register the die is under it so you don’t damage it. Magnesium dies are durable for thousands of impressions when properly cared for. Give the ram a little mash. Get ready to stamp by placing your piece against the registration guides. Stamping You can blind deboss (stamping without foil) or use foil. To use foil, cut off a manageable section and place it flat against your work piece. Stamp by lowering the ram in a deliberate manner — you will have to experiment with temperature, pressure, and the amount of time the die remains in contact with your work piece. It’s not hard to get consistently good impressions. Results on leather and paper are nice. Top to bottom left to right: W&C bridle grain, W&C bridle flesh, Brown Horween equine Chromexcel, W&C natural tooling, black Horween bovine Chromexcel, Mohawk 130# paper. Materials 8mm x 80mm 300W cartridge heater — $7.47 delivered — http://www.amazon.com/Mold-Heating-Element-Cartridge-Heater/dp/B00DN6BQCY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1452723192&sr=8-8&keywords=300w+cartridge+heater Ink bird ITC-100VH+25A SSR+ K sensor PID temperature controller with K-type thermocouple and 25A solid state relay — $36.99 delivered — http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RMDZVNO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 Misc. Various lengths of wire, terminal blocks, spade and fork connectors, grommets, scavenged inline fuse, scavenged rocker switch, etc. Suitable enclosure — I had a nice extrusion and face plates 1 ½”+ ton arbor press Stainless steel square rod and round rod in whatever dimensions you want Access to a horizontal bandsaw, vertical knee mill, end mills, drill bits, reamer, taps dies, etc. Dies and tape 3/8” raised/wrong reading magnesium foil stamping dies from Owosso — https://www.owosso.com/Products/MagnesiumDies/FoilStamping.aspx 3M heat bonding film — $22 for 1” x 180’ from Owosso — https://www.owosso.com/3MBondingFilm.aspx Foil This is specific to your application so you’re on your own.
  23. Hi, Brand new here to the site. I've been working with leather for a very short amount of time. I bought some of this "Woodland distressed pigskin" from Tandy. It works well for what I'm making. Someone has asked me to make an item for them and to somehow imprint their initials in it. I realize that it can't be stamped, but I was hoping someone had an idea of how I could add their initials. I'm a little desperate to find a way to do this, because people love the item, and the leather used to make it. I'm selling stuff to be able to keep up with this hobby that I've come to love! Please let me know if you have ANY ideas. Thanks!
  24. I have been playing with leather and tooling for over a year now and i have decided to start upgrading my tools and collection. Let me know if you have any suggestions or if you have some tools and stamps you would be willing to let go.. Also looking for a new smaller maul. THank you
  25. I am making tool holders as well as laser cut templates. Right now I have 2 models of tool racks. a large and a small rack. the small rack holds 60 tools and is 29.00 shipped in the US and the large Rack holds 118 tools and is 49.95 shipped in the US thanks for looking Lewis