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Hi y’all - I’ve been an off-and-on lurker on these forums for a while, & now I have a specific question! I’ve been working on coming up with & testing a solid dog collar design for my goofball German Shepherd. I keep having issues with my collars stretching. For the most recent one, I used a midweight veg tan leather with a softer leather backing, & it was better than previous designs, but still ended up stretching significantly. Should I go to a heavier weight veg? Try backing the veg with harness or latigo leather? Are there certain finishes or treatments that would help stiffen the leather & provide water protection? All ideas & experience appreciated! I want to come up with a design that can be tooled on the outside but still hold up to all the wear that a dog will put a collar through. Thanks! Kambra
Hi, I've designed a phone pouch and want to place an eyelet in the hole where the cord is (see the picture). However, I'm afraid that the male/female part of an eyelet might scratch the screen. Does any one have any idea of a way around? I've considered glueing a small round piece of leather atop of the inside eyelet part, but that will add to the thickness of the pouch and I don't want that. Thanks!
I know there are literally thousands of years of experience in leather crafting on this forum. I am sure every one of us has developed some small tricks that make the life of a leathercrafter easier and would like to create a thread to collect as many of them as possible. Please post them here, no matter how small or trivial they seem to you. Here are some of mine, there's a picture attached for every one: "Improved Washers" to cut small radiuses As i know, many of you use washers to cut small radiuses. So do i. But i noticed that the ones for countersink screws work better for me, they are easier to hold. Plus, i punched some round pieces out of a rubber sheet and glued them to the bottom side of the washers for better grip on the leather Rubber bands for Spools This one is so obvious, it took me years to find out about it. Its simply keeps them from unravelling and makes it a lot easier to find the ending of the thread. Felt Pens for Stitching Grooves It annoied the hell out of me that i had to re-dye the stitching grooves of dyed pieces. It was messy and time consuming. So i tried some Felt Tip Pens and it just worked out great. As you can see, its not a huge difference, but enough to weaken the contrast between the groove and the rest of the leather. On the finished piece you would notice an undied groove underneath the Thread, but you would not after re-dying it with a felt tip. I guess you could use any waterproof Felt Tips. I use the ones on the picture because the have a huge range of colours (more than 100 iirc). Now i'm excited to hear some tricks from you guys! Thank in advance Schpacko
I bought an old secondhand leather sewing machine (an Adler 169) and all's right except the marks that makes the pressing foot: it's a little wheel with a graven impressed (I think it's for pull the leather better) BUT this leaves marks on the leather. If I got down the pressure doesn't sew good because not drag the work. The problem: The guilty: That only happen significantly in cow leather, but is the one I want to sew. There's any trick to avoid it? Or you know if a teflon wheel exist? Or something to do after in the leather to eliminate or dissimulate? Please, any idea will help! Thanks a lot!! Greta