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Found 9 results

  1. WAXED THREADS, HELP!

    Hello folks , here again with another one of my newbie situations: I love my thread , as we all do and well I'm a beginner so I don't use much right a tiny 25 yard spool would do me well for a good time, but as I began to actually do more work , make more things , I began to realize "hey , this won't do". And this constant buying of thread has been on and on.I like to buy Tandy's nylon waxed thread: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/waxed-nylon-thread-25-yds-22-9-m And it's only 4 dollars, right so I'm not complaining or anything but I really feel I could do better for the long run , I know not all of you go and buy tiny 25 yard spools but yeah what's something I could do to not spend 16 dollars on 100 yards ? Also , today I bought some "Omega nylon #2 thread" thinking I could rub some beeswax on it and pass it off as waxed nylon thread , I tried it , and it didn't feel as good as Tandy's, maybe because the beeswax was homemade ? Also , the thread isn't made up of 3 little stands like Tandy's, it's only 2. Could I somehow make this work ? It's 275 yards. Thank y'all in advance
  2. Hello folks , here again with another one of my newbie situations: I love my thread , as we all do and well I'm a beginner so I don't use much right a tiny 25 yard spool would do me well for a good time, but as I began to actually do more work , make more things , I began to realize "hey , this won't do". And this constant buying of thread has been on and on.I like to buy Tandy's nylon waxed thread: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/waxed-nylon-thread-25-yds-22-9-m And it's only 4 dollars, right so I'm not complaining or anything but I really feel I could do better for the long run , I know not all of you go and buy tiny 25 yard spools but yeah what's something I could do to not spend 16 dollars on 100 yards ? Also , today I bought some "Omega nylon #2 thread" thinking I could rub some beeswax on it and pass it off as waxed nylon thread , I tried it , and it didn't feel as good as Tandy's, maybe because the beeswax was homemade ? Also , the thread isn't made up of 3 little stands like Tandy's, it's only 2. Could I somehow make this work ? It's 275 yards. Thank y'all in advance
  3. Hello, I posted a similar topic a few years ago and I'm hoping to re-ignite the subject. I've been trying different methods over the years and I still have not found a clear-cut (or even close) method of burnishing thinner (i'm using 4/5 oz) natural leather without the edges being darkened too much and without making a mess of the face of the piece (or the flesh side, for that matter). I really like the look of completely untouched natural leather, so I don't want to put any sort of conditioner/sheen on the face as they all darken the leather at least a shade. I want to keep the natural leather as white/pink as possible with minimal water/paste mess from burnishing. I'm also having somewhat of an issue with the flesh edge of the leather folding over some with the thinner leather. I might be burnishing too quickly after wetting the edge, I don't know. I am using a pro edge burnisher in my drill press which works very well. Methods I've tried: - Just water This solves the edge darkening problem and also solves the mess problem when applied extremely carefully with a dauber or your finger. However, it doesn't give a lasting extra slick finish. - Just liquid Saddle soap This gives a slick finish, but darkens the leather edge a lot and also seems to soak into the leather more, which means messy and uneven looking edges. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water This darkens the edge a bit less (still more than i'd like) and soaks in a bit less, but isn't as slick as just straight up liquid saddle soap. - 50/50 liquid Saddle soap and water, then beeswax, then canvas burnishing. Creates a slick edge, but is very hard to keep clean, and darkens the edge quite a bit. - Gum Tragacanth Creates a good slick edge (one coat is good, two coats is better), but is really really hard to keep clean. Doesn't darken the edge as much as the straight liquid saddle soap, but still darker than I like. One thing I did discover recently is that applying gum trag to the edge with the edge of a toothpick works well for keeping it clean, but is very tedious. Should I maybe burnish the edge with just water first before burnishing with gum trag? would that help keep the trag from seeping onto the face? I guess I'm just hoping that some magician out there has come up with a magical method/product that is easy to apply/won't make a mess/won't darken the edge too much. Haha. I'm also having a hard time with applying beeswax as its hardness makes it difficult to apply a sufficient amount of wax to the edge. I was considering making a mixture of beeswax, olive oil, and eucalyptus oil to stave off mould. I've heard of a beeswax/neatsfoot solution, but would prefer to use olive oil in its place. Does anyone have any experience with a wax/olive oil blend? I prefer not to use any paraffin. Thanks again, Zayne
  4. I have recently made my own wax for edge finishing 50/50 Beeswax and paraffin, I have also seen proprietary blended waxes for sale with special oils. Does anyone want to share info on different oils and wax people have used in there wax blends (besides bees and paraffin) the ratios and benefits . I have seen candelilla wax used There is probably a thread for this already...if so Link it
  5. I've been browsing the forum (and am fairly new to the forum) for techniques that people like to use in finishing the inside (raw leather) of their sheaths. I have tried the paraffin/beeswax concoction in dipping a sheath to seal it all over(haven't tried applying only to the inner w/ a dauber) - but didn't like the shiny finish I've tried trag gum - but have ended up with some hairy spots that refuse to go away & Lately I've been using Ballistol, as recommended by Rowe's Leather, whom has made some nice sheaths for myself and my father in the past - but it turns my saddle tan to a dark brown from inside out! I want to get a smooth finish on these sheaths, and can't decide whether I will go un-dyed or raw, pending my next attempt at finishing the inside. What do you guys use? And I apologize if this thread already exists - If so, please link me! Look forward to hearing what you guys have to say!
  6. Im making a little card wallet for my girlfriend, and ive oiled it with extra virgin olive oil , and have applied the dye , i used ox blood which is really nice but its very difficult to get a nice even coat . if you guys have any tips on dying to get an even coat speak your mind please BUT ! my main problem after an hour drying i started buffing with some white paper towel and it just keeps coming off , ! there doesnt seem to be any end to it coming off. Am i doing something wrong or do i just have to keep buffing ? Did i leave it long enough to dry ? and what is a good finish to put on a wallet ?
  7. I am wondering if anyone has used an air compressor to apply oil to their leather and even wax? Bascially I am trying to speed things up as right now I am applying oil by hand with a shop towel. I was thinking I might be able to spray it on. Dipping it is probably out of the question? Any other ideas are much appreciated! Thanks!
  8. When would I apply Resolene ? After I burnish with saddle soap and before I burnish edges with wax, or after the wax? The wax wouldn't let the Resolene penetrate would it, and vice versa. It's an item the may get wet, should I just use neat lac instead, as the last step?
  9. I have used the Fiebings Leather sheen, Super sheen and Saddle lac. I am concerned about using any of these products on this gig because of the heavy use of the flap bending back and forth regularly. I dont want cracking. Can I get away with buffing out the dye and applying Neutral shoe polish or will the polish make it rub? I have buffed it to the point where it is not rubbing now without any sealer. The guy does not want a shinny lacquer like finish. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Alex