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Found 9 results

  1. Hello everyone! I've searched through the forums for an answer to my issue, but couldn't find anything so here goes! If it has been answered elsewhere, my apologies for starting a new thread. I'm new here and am constantly trying to improve my skills and tooling/painting on my weightlifting belts. My most recent endeavor is trying to figure out how to make my white paint remain white after antiquing. I tool, dye, paint (angelus acrylic), then coat with 1 or 2 coats of angelus acrylic finisher. I use black antique mostly because it goes with anything, the more natural tones don't fit in with my work. Basically, as you can guess, the black antique doesn't come off clean enough, and leaves a nasty tone on the white. I use Eco flo gel antique. See attached, an idol of mine's great work - and how white his paint comes out after finishing! Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks so much!
  2. By the end of the week I am expecting to receive the following in the post: A cheap (Chinese made, with probable Japanese influence) beginner's sett of leather working tools from Ebay A remnant/pieces pack of leather, needles, and thread from The Identity Store A copy of "The Leatherworking Handbook" by Valerie Michael from Amazon Yet to acquire from the local chain DIY store (probably nearer the time, or on Sunday if it slips my mind before then which is likely to happen) are: wood and fixings to make a cheap stitching pony Evo-Stik Time Bond contact adhesive an Oilstone (or similar) for inevitable initial sharpening of previously mentioned tools as well as general upkeep later on miscellaneous things that catch my eye which may be helpful such as clamps, sandpaper, straight edge etc Other things yet to be appropriated into my "kit": worksurface stuff (cutting mat, poly board, granite (or similar)) decent desk lamp as most of my work will be completed in the late evening/small hours after finishing the late shift at "the day job" and goodness knows my eyes will need all the help they can get edge slicking substance graph/grid paper for when I feel up to making my own patterns bone folder type tool stitching awl Things I already have, yet to be consolidated together: poly mallet basic geometry set (ruler, square, compases etc) pencils large toolbox for storage stack of "craft" drawers for storage non-marring spudger set which I'm sure will come in handy for poking/prodding in crevices metal bodied Utility knife (and blades) Extra Virgin Olive Oil in lieu of more specialist finishes tonnes of old clothes for rags Things I will probably get at a later date once I get a feel for everything (this does not include ad hoc replacement/upgrading of any of the above when needed): butcher's block style work station (as I'll mostly be working at my 10yr old pine desk in my bedroom initially, maybe out in the shed weather permitting) relevant dyes, treatments, etc and relevant applicators basic carving tools (I do not plan on getting into this much but I guess it's always handy to be able pop a pretty border on something special) ___ I know the cost of starting a new hobby from scratch is always going to be a major consideration, but it seems leathercraft is even more so. Yes I know it's no good moaning to other people who have all been there/done that, but starting out on a shoe string is still likely to cost me upwards of £100 ($125 for you colonials ). Being the sort of person I am, often doing things on a whim, and generally cautious with cash, I do not want to go to the lengths that some do and get The Works in terms of equipment and materials to start with. I don't want to spend a small fortune on something if I don't end up getting decently into it to justify the cost. That said, it seems the general advice in terms of initial outlay is "get the best you can afford" and that's what I'm doing I suppose. I guess there are those out there who have started out with much less, and I have no need nor reason trying to justify what I'm doing. I guess in a way I'm secretly hoping that I get sufficiently good enough at the whole "leather thing" that in the long run I can start going to fairs, events, do made-to-order and the like, and be able to become (at least partially) self employed. But that's definitely a long way off. I think for me leathercraft will always be a matter of being on a shoestring, at least in the sense of trying to get the best from the least. I've always been enthralled by the way craftsmen of all disciplines in years gone-by have come up with ingenious solutions which even centuries or millennia haven't changed much, and as much as possible I want to keep what I do "low-tech": drawing up templates by hand rather than using PC software, using as traditional methods and tools as possible, and if possible trying to be authentic in style/process with any historical based pieces I produce. I (like to think) I am fairly good at improvising, and this will also keep costs down. Who needs a £40 edge slicker when a double-pronged piece of deer antler (free if you know where/when to look) will do? Or expensive black dyes if you can master the likes of vinegaroon and lampblack?
  3. Hey guys, Recently I've had a request from a friend to make him a dog collar and a leash for his wedding,for his dog to bring them the wedding rings :D I couldn't find white leather yet, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips to paint natural veg tanned leather white, whith like an acrylic paint, a spray, and then apply some lacker to avoid smudging and cracking. I'd aprreciate any tips!! Thank you, Lourenço
  4. White stitching

    I was watching the Andrews Leather How too video and noticed that he stitches and does everything before he dyes/oils the leather. When I hand stitch my leather I do it after I color the leather so that I can keep the stitching white. How does he keep the stitches white when coloring his holsters? He said he uses a bonded Nylon, does that have any thing to do with it.
  5. Looking for information for how to dye or paint veg tan leather white in a way that would be resilient enough for daily wear as a belt. Thanks!
  6. I recently ordered some Feibings white after being told by those at Tandy that no one sells white dye. I thought it was a new product or a great find, but when I tried to thin it with reducer it seemed to clump up. When I used it straight from the bottle it went on more like a paint than a dye. Can anyone help with this?
  7. Dying/painting White + Blocking Out

    Hey guys, as a fairly recent beginner of leather works (but man it does turn into an obsession pretty quickly huh?) I was hoping i could ask some advice abut dying. Here's the problem: i was making a guitar strap and wanted to keep the pattern in the original leather colour and dye the rest black, but as predicted the dye bled into the pattern area. I've read quite a lot about block-out but no real explanation as to how it is done, can smeone help me out here? Are there certain dyes that works with certain block out methods etc? Also after the failed attempt i ended up painting the pattern section with a very watered down acrylic paint (thinking behind it that if it is a bit wetter it will absorb into the leather better and not just sit on top). Is there anything i should do to treat this paint to prevent it from flaking or cracking or should i not worry too much? Below is a picture of how it looks so far, would love your input on this! Many thanks, /milton
  8. This is a corset in progress. I've sewn a couple of traditional corsets, and this one is a bit of an engineering feat for me, in deciding which order things have to be done in since its not your traditional method of construction. I almost have the leather exterior done. I have a heavy cotton lining in black and white houndstooth, and it contains the bones and is waiting on a busk. I will stitch the lining to the exterior, and add a wide leather bias binding to the edges once the buckles are completed. This piece and the one I posted before this are going to be costume pieces for this years carnaval. I have one more corset to do, which will be a longer under bust piece out of heavier leather and using all rivet construction. Any tips for a riveted corset??
  9. White Leather Chest Harness

    I first started dabbling in leather work two years ago when I decided to make some masks for Carnaval, and then last year I got more serious about it and started making jewelry and body pieces. I've lurked around and read posts here and there over the last year, so I thought it was high time to start posting some of my own pieces. And thank you all for the little nuggets of wisdom I gleaned. I'm starting to get a lot better, and I'm pretty proud of this piece. The attached pouch is the first ever one I've done, and it taught me a lot of lessons. I didn't have a pattern or tutorial, and it was an interesting experience. I now know that leather binding needs to be pretty wide, with a wider seam allowance than in standard fabric, and the more seams the better for flexibility. I'll probably end up redoing it.