flyingcuda

jeweler's rouge

14 posts in this topic

mine is as hard as a rock! is there a way to bring it back to life? the nearest tandy is 3 hours away, so just scooting out to get another one isn't the answer right now. i've tried looking around to see if someone else my carry it but as i have come to realise is that no one around here has anything i need. think if i ask nicely, they may open a tandy in my little no where town just for me? :rofl:

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mine is as hard as a rock! is there a way to bring it back to life? the nearest tandy is 3 hours away, so just scooting out to get another one isn't the answer right now. i've tried looking around to see if someone else my carry it but as i have come to realise is that no one around here has anything i need. think if i ask nicely, they may open a tandy in my little no where town just for me? :rofl:

You can warm it up with a lighter (carefully) which will get it soft enough to get onto a strop.

Also if you have a sears or harbor freight nearby they usually carry the variouse lapping compounds which is all it is.

Here read this thread as well http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16128

Edited by MADMAX22

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I guess it depends on where you live, but I have found different compounds at most hardware stores, Harbor Freight, auto body suppliers, and Sears here has about 8 kinds.

To soften up some old chalky stuff I have lightly warmed it and it seems to soften enough. Another trick it is to spray it with WD 40.

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I stopped using the tandy rouge and started using a micro hone that's got a waxy/grease base and is soft at room temp.

See it here.

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This is also a very viable option.

Use a piece of leather and place this on it:

http://www.classicshaving.com/catalog/item/522944/482858.htm

TF

The only problems I see with that solution TF is that it's 3 times as expensive and it is a 9.0 micron compound whereas the green one i use is a 0.5 micron compound.

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I guess it depends on where you live, but I have found different compounds at most hardware stores, Harbor Freight, auto body suppliers, and Sears here has about 8 kinds.

To soften up some old chalky stuff I have lightly warmed it and it seems to soften enough. Another trick it is to spray it with WD 40.

WD 40??? I'll have to try that one. What do you use to warm it up? Set it in the oven for a few minutes?

Kate

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Lowes has it and most hardware stores carry it. It is it the tool section. Ryobi brand is a dollar for 4 ozs.

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WD 40??? I'll have to try that one. What do you use to warm it up? Set it in the oven for a few minutes?

Kate

Kate,

I warm it with my paint stripping heat gun. Set it on low and kind of fan it until it just gets a bit of a sheen to it. I leared the Wd 40 trick several years ago, I just couldn't get a piece of white rouge to stick on my new and improved strop very well. One of my older buds told me to spray the leather with WD 40 and it'll work alright. I found it will work sprayed on the stick too.

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I had the same problem with mine. I let it soak in mineral oil for 2 weeks and brought it right back to life. I had quite the argument with the St. Louis Tandy manager over it when I asked her how consistency it should be when it arrived and was told to read the leathercraft manual. I no longer do business with her.

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Kate,

I warm it with my paint stripping heat gun. Set it on low and kind of fan it until it just gets a bit of a sheen to it. I leared the Wd 40 trick several years ago, I just couldn't get a piece of white rouge to stick on my new and improved strop very well. One of my older buds told me to spray the leather with WD 40 and it'll work alright. I found it will work sprayed on the stick too.

Good tip, Bruce. Thanks!

Bob

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The only problems I see with that solution TF is that it's 3 times as expensive and it is a 9.0 micron compound whereas the green one i use is a 0.5 micron compound.

Ugh, Rawhide,

I was pressed for time so I was not taking my time. lo ciento.

It is a little more expensive - but it will not have the problems mentioned in the post above. It is much easier to use and a little goes a long way.

It also comes in many different 'grits'.

Here is .25 micron if you want it. Look around.

http://www.classicshaving.com/catalog/item/522944/482837.htm

This is one of my passions as I am a knife guy as well. Here is a great page for finding compound and a very well made simple 4 sides strop:

http://www.jreindustries.com/sharpening.htm

Also - if you want to learn how to convex an edge of a knife - here is a great site with GREAT videos:

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/p4/Sharpenin...deos/pages.html

TF

Edited by Talfuchre

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Ugh, Rawhide,

I was pressed for time so I was not taking my time. lo ciento.

It is a little more expensive - but it will not have the problems mentioned in the post above. It is much easier to use and a little goes a long way.

It also comes in many different 'grits'.

Here is .25 micron if you want it. Look around.

http://www.classicshaving.com/catalog/item/522944/482837.htm

This is one of my passions as I am a knife guy as well. Here is a great page for finding compound and a very well made simple 4 sides strop:

http://www.jreindustries.com/sharpening.htm

Also - if you want to learn how to convex an edge of a knife - here is a great site with GREAT videos:

http://www.knivesshipfree.com/p4/Sharpenin...deos/pages.html

TF

Man, now I'm interested...

I actually made one of those 4-sided strops for myself a while back, I use 800/1200/2000 grit wet/dry on three sides and a rouge loaded strop on the 4th side.

Works great.

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I convex my stuff - I use a mouse pad and 2000 grit as a sharpener. Then I move to leather strop with compound.

I move from black oxide, to green, to pink - to plain.

TF

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