Jim

Cowboy Holster Tutorial

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I have a question regarding this tutorial. Im a beginner when it comes to leather work, so I apologize if this is a dumb question. Ive already made a slim jim holster that was posted here by Mr. Simmons, and I glued the liner in as recommended. I noticed that the liner glued in makes the holster nice and sturdy, or rigid. So, I decided to make a lined Mexican double loop holster based on the instructions posted here. The problem is, it doesnt show how to add the liner to the double loop holster, and then get that holster to slide into the back skirt loops. I have a Colt Frontier revolver with a 7.5" barrel......I was thinking that I should just sew in the liner instead of glue it in, that way I can "fold" the leather into the loops? Thats the only way I can think of doing it....but, as I said, Im a beginner.

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I thought the pic of the cover looked familiar. Jim I found this PDF some time ago (not here) on another site and used it. Awesome PDF and thank you so much for sharing. I usually make Conceal Carry for he autos out there but a western type for a revolver was a challenge to me and this PDF helped me out a ton.

Thanks again

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Howdy,

I'm kind of a young buck and new to these parts. Been interested in leather work for a long time, but just now getting started. I have a background in woodworking, so I know my way around the shop and can use tools without loosing any appendages. For my birthday I'm getting a Ruger New Vaquero in .357 mag, and of course I need a good holster and cartridge belt to go boot. Now to the nitty-gritty, I'm at a quandary as to how to go about lining said rig. Some recommend a soft pigskin or suede, while others insist that none other than good quality cowhide will do, especially to preserve blued steel. Right now I'm leaning towards the cowhide, but my question is what quality of cowhide is necessary? I want to do it right and use Herman Oak, but this could be cost prohibitive if I have to buy pieces of two different weights, e.g. 5-6 oz and 3-4 oz. What are some thoughts on going with a small side of 4-5 oz and using that for outer and lining? Also, if Herman Oak is so great why don't they offer shoulders, which are said to be the ideal cut for holsters? Sorry if I ramble. Any and all feedback will be appreciated.

Sincerely,

Jason, AKA Johnny Valentine

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thanks for the Tutorial!You_Rock_Emoticon.gif

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Boriqua   

Thank you for being so generous with you time and you knowledge. I am going to try one next!

Alex

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Madadh   

Thanks for the tutorial. I just had to try it and had a scoped ruger single six. Here is my attempt.:

IMAG0398_zps6ca8d2e5.jpg

IMAG0395_zps0ec4fc93.jpg

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I followed the tutorial and the gun seemed to fit great. But, I am getting scratches on the inside liner. Is this to be expected? Should I have wet formed this around the gun? Should I have made the holster slightly larger? Thank you for your help.

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1560779_615981938451038_1542403023_n.jpg

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Unless your going to coat your gun in rubber you will have scratches. Forming the holster a little more around the gun might have ruduced scratches a little and probably cause more scratches in other areas. What did you seal the inside of the hoslter with?

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I didn't seal the inside. This is just a prototype before I make the real thing.

Also, the gun fits pretty tightly. Is there a way to get it so there is not retention. More for faster draw when Cowboy Action Shooting?

Edited by greg77630

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When I make a holster for fast draw I use two layer glued fuzzy side to fuzzy side any where from 6 - 8oz (each layer) so you end up with a thickness that would be equal to about 12 -16 oz. I lien toward the 16. Do a general forming around the gun, don't do any detail molding. Basicaly you are just forming a bucket. After I wet mold mine I expose it to a little heat to get the drying process under way usually in the oven at about 170 deg for about 10 minutes. Then take it out and let it dry over night (there are many variation on how to dry a holste). You should have a fairly hard holster with out much give.

If the holster you have now is too tight, stick your gun in a ziploc freezer bag stuff the gun and bag into the holster leave it over night. Remove the gun and the bag re insert the gun it should be a little looser. If needed do it again with two bags one inside the other and the gun inside the inner bag. sealing the inside of the holster with gumtrag will make a pretty slick surface and may reduce some of the scuffing. There are many products that can be used to seal and protect the leather.

One other thought, since your holster is a prototype cut the stitching open up the holster put in a welt re stitch the holster. You should have a looser holster. Also before you do that, since you have not sealed the holster wet it and mold it around the gun open the top of the holster up a bit and flair the opening out a little that wil help with reholstering as well. It is a prototype so you can play with it and try some different things to make it work the way you want.

Edited by camano ridge

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Dwight   

It looks like there might be a welt in the holster, . . . can't see for sure.

But the scratches seem to be on the outside half of the holster away from the leg. That would indicate to me that the ejector rod is probably hanging up, . . . or scraping badly.

In John Bianchi's holster making videos, . . . he shows opening up the barrel end of the holster with a hammer handle. Yessir, . . . it works.

I got mine at a yard sale, . . . sanded it all down, . . . smoothed it out, . . . greatest tool in the world for SAA holsters.

It will open up that bottom where the ejector rod is, . . . make it smooth and non-catching.

I recommend that tool to anyone making SAA holsters.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

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It does have a tapered welt at the top. I might try a full welt.

Dwight, Is the hammer handle used because of a taper or would a dowel work for opening the barrel end?

Camano Ridge, I will try the freezer bag method tonight. I will let you know how it goes.

Thank you both for your advise.

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Dwight   

It does have a tapered welt at the top. I might try a full welt.

Dwight, Is the hammer handle used because of a taper or would a dowel work for opening the barrel end?

Camano Ridge, I will try the freezer bag method tonight. I will let you know how it goes.

Thank you both for your advise.

I use the hammer handle instead of a dowel, . . . because it starts out pretty small, . . . and goes up to pretty big, . . . AND, . . . they come pre-finished :wave: so all you gotta do is cut off the part that would go into the hammer head, . . . sand down the very end nice & smooth, . . . you've got a tool.

It then works for lots of different sizes of holsters.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Ok, looking at the picture closer I do see the welt. Dwight is right about the hammer handle I use one as well.

Edited by camano ridge

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Jim   

Ya know I hate to shot John B. in the foot, but have y'all considered widening the holster pattern at the barrel end? Depending on what the holster was being used for (ie. fast draw, mounted, or everyday shooting) I adjusted the lower end width to accommodate the shooters needs. No hammer handle required.

Jim

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Very well done tutorial. Thanks for sharing.

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Coho   

Thought I'd share as well.

Here is my result on my first revolver holster :

20141223_182536-XL.jpg

20141223_182631-XL.jpg

20141223_182603-XL.jpg

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Jim   

Fellers, if the holster is a little tighter than you'd like it to be, enlarge the the next holster template just a bit. Wet molding is not needed. Trust me on this.

Jom

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Jim   

This coming from a gut that can't spell his own name

Jim

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Murray   

Jim,

That is one fantastic tutorial. Thank you very much for putting it together.

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All righty Jim,

I have a couple of questions. Figures 25 and 26 show making the marks for the slots for the loops... How much wider than the holster should the slot holes in the skirt be? It looks like you are holding the pattern down flat to the table to make the marks on the skirt and on the skirt you mark where the edge of the holster sits... do the slot holes stick out from under the holster on the pattern?

Ugh, I'm tired, I cannot tell if this even makes any sense. I'm mixing your tutorial, Will Ghormley's "Johnny Ringo" rig and Red Cent's reverse sewn holster. It is a bit ambitious for me so I am trying to get all the questions hammered out first.

Any help is greatly appreciated,

Red Bear

P.S. Hey, did you get pictures from the P-51 flight at the beginning of the month?

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Jim   

The ends of the loos should e tend no more than 5/8" from the edges of the holster pattern.

And yes I got some photos and 39 minutes of video.

Jim

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I didn't seal the inside. This is just a prototype before I make the real thing.

Also, the gun fits pretty tightly. Is there a way to get it so there is not retention. More for faster draw when Cowboy Action Shooting?

If you want to make the inside free of resistance try some kg9 leather cote. It is what several top sass shooters use. I loan some last year to ledgendary lawman he quickly came for some more for seriniy the world champion classic cowgirl last two years running iirc. They promptly order their own after last years EOT it makes that much of a difference I apply using a dabber at home and touch up with a finger if needed during a match.

Iirc it contains Teflon from what I've been told.

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Jim, thank you again for the free x, this time it's a tutorial. I have a question for you concerning a holster design put out by Kirtpatrick leather as I buy their long hunter 09 holsters for competition. I made a set based on the look of them before buying my first set but I didn't have the wide belt reinforcement or the tab for the belt to keep the holster from riding up on the draw. My question is could you do a tutorial on how to design that extra material that follows the belt.to keep the holster from twisting and if you do a whole holster from a-z add in how to Chang the angle on a pattern from straight to 5-10 muzzle forward which appears to be what the lh08 uses for straight drop, and then a 30degree angle muzzle forward and then a couple of muzzle rearward angles so that I learn how and where the angle should be made because I've taken a straight drop holster pattern copied it drew a center line down it and bent that line by cutting and taping but it wasn't exactly correct it worked but I can see it could be done better.qest for knowledge off.

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I wish I had seen your excellent tutorial BEFORE I made my holster (left handed buscadero style)

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