particle

Show Me Your Backside Of Holsters Sewn With Boss

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Denster   

Thanks for the compliments on the website. It's not 100% yet, but getting close. Want to add more details to the individual model pages with more options (maybe....), maybe shoot a video of me building a holster (since they seem to be hard to find on the net), process photos, etc. Most of all, thanks for all your help with the Boss stitches. I really appreciate it.

You're most welcome. Looking forward to the video. I think it would be an excellent marketing tool as well as adding to the knowledge base. I haven't found much worthwhile video wise outside of Tucker's videos.

PS: Were all waiting for more holster pics. Hint Hintbegging.gif

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JeffGC   

HS 98-3 (see attached)

Thanks. I slightly tightened the bolt and the looping problem went away.

This is really quite a learning experience. Last night, I sewed my first holster after sewing yards of stitches on practice scrapes. I was pleased with the appearance of my top stitching but I'm still not used to seeing the appearance of the bottom stitching from a machine. One problem I created for myself. When I stitched around a curve or approaching a corner, I'd lift the presser foot and place the next stitch by eye. The result is visibly erratic stitch lengths. I think I need to rely more of the accuracy of the machine, letting it control the stitch length. I need to learn to nudge the line of stitching around a curve without lifting the foot.

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Denster   

Thanks. I slightly tightened the bolt and the looping problem went away.

This is really quite a learning experience. Last night, I sewed my first holster after sewing yards of stitches on practice scrapes. I was pleased with the appearance of my top stitching but I'm still not used to seeing the appearance of the bottom stitching from a machine. One problem I created for myself. When I stitched around a curve or approaching a corner, I'd lift the presser foot and place the next stitch by eye. The result is visibly erratic stitch lengths. I think I need to rely more of the accuracy of the machine, letting it control the stitch length. I need to learn to nudge the line of stitching around a curve without lifting the foot.

Jeff

It just takes a little practice to get the rythm when going around curves. As the needle penetrates the leather and the presser foot lifts you nudge. If you nudge too much you can micro adjust with the presser foot down. Seriously after a little practice it becomes second nature and you don't even think about it. It helps if you focus on the left side of your presser foot in relation to your groove. Trying to set your stitches by eye always causes problems as there is a certain optical illusion from the sewers perspective as to stitch length. At least for me that always resulted in longer stitches where I didn't trust the machine. Some times you just have to set by eye and it helps to watch the machine as you are stitching a straight line watching how the distance looks as the needle comes down in relation to the last stitch and after awhile your brain will pick up on the correct look. In comming to a sharp turn start to estimate the remaining distance with two stitches to go and balance out the difference. Hope this helps a bit.

The back side with all machines except for needle and awl is never going to look like hand stitching unless someone has a trick I don't know about. You can improve it by heavier thread, lower tension, and 4 to 5 spi but it just won't be as pretty. If some one knows differently feel free to jump in.

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Denster   

OK! Here is what this post originally asked for. If I do this right and have the photos edited to the right size. Two holsters showing the backside sewen on the Boss.PDStich.jpglcrstitch.jpg

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particle   

Okay - Denster's looks way better than mine, but I think I'm getting the tension closer. Here is the backside of a couple I did this week.

The first in the group - note the inconsistent tension, needle thread showing through, etc. Ugh.

782110511_HUHQc-L.jpg

This is one of the last ones I sewed after the excellent feedback from this thread, and after tightening the bolt on the thread take-up lever.

782111570_yKkjj-L.jpg

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Denster   

Particle old son. That last one is as good as it gets on the backside. You deserve a few calouses on your hand from patting yourself on the back. Way to go.

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carljc72   

I recently picked up a Boss and thought I was doing pretty well...time to go back to school I guess. I do not have a photo to share but I will try to come up with something soon. My hat is off to you both for getting the back stitching that clean.

Carl

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particle   

Particle old son. That last one is as good as it gets on the backside. You deserve a few calouses on your hand from patting yourself on the back. Way to go.

Thank you sir - I appreciate the compliment. FYI - I finally got around to posting the final pics in this thread.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22189&view=findpost&p=142221

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Yes - both the primary and secondary have a full loop around them. I pulled the manual out last night and read it to make sure - the graphic doesn't look like they indicate a full loop on the secondary tensioner (not when compared to the graphic for the primary tensioner). But, I read the text instructions, and it actually says to go completely around the secondary tensioner.

I'm slightly puzzled by the recommendation that the thread on a Tippmann Boss should loop around both tensioners. I've checked the manual, and it definitely says that it should pass through the back side of the secondary tensioner, and once clockwise around the primary tensioner (pic attached). This is shown both on the illustration, and stated in the text.

Has the manual changed? Is there a benefit in passing the thread around both tensioners? I have occasionally noticed that the thread can slip out from between the secondary tensioner discs . . . perhaps looping around the tensioner would stop this happening? Any thoughts . . ?

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Denster   

It depends on what time frame your manual is from. I have three and two show looping around both tensioners and one shows just comming in the backside of the first tensioner as you displayed. That method is sometimes useful when using really heavy unlubed thread but has the drawback of the thread popping out as you mentioned.

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JeffGC   

When I got my Boss I was confused by the conflicting info. I called Tippmann...wrap around both tensioners.

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Thank you, gentlemen! I bought my Tippmann five years ago, direct from the factory, so I guess the manual may have changed since then. I'd never thought about looping around both tensioners, but I'm certainly going to give it a try!

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drman63   

What size needle are you using and is it round or chisel? thanks Dave

Just a couple of tips. When closing an envelope style holster it really helps to have a left presser foot and I start my stitchline at the bottom outside edge go all the way around the perimeter and profile of the gun back to the beginning and oversew three or four stitches. There will still be a couple of marks but they will come out easily generally during the molding stage. Nothing like what you have with the standard presser foot.

On going around corners. With rounded corners after awhile you get the feel for the timing and can nudge it around during stitching. On sharp turns at the last stitch before the turn run the needle all the way to the bottom then raise about 1/2" squeeze your presser foot lever just enough to release the leather and turn so you're headed in the right direction release the presser foot and raise the lever all they way up.

With the Boss it is important never to short stroke it. All the way down all the way up. This is impeded if youn have a death grip on the handle. Just gently hold it in the ball of your hand.

I use 346 top and 277 bottom as I like a plump stitch and I stitch at 5spi.

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particle   

Tippmann has a needle and thread guide on their site. Whatever thread you choose, their chart will tell you the needle size to buy. For what it's worth, I buy 277 thread, use it in the top and bottom, and without a doubt, use the chisel needles. If you buy the Boss, be sure to also immediately buy a pack of chisel needles. For whatever reason, the needles that are included with the boss do not have an angled chisel on them - they are chiseled, but it slices parallel to the stitch line instead of angled - at least not the ones I received nor do the needles of another forum member that just received his new Boss.

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drman63   

Particle where do you buy your needles (chisel point) if not from tippman? and if you ever have time can you write out you set up on your boss. Mine sews ok/good sometimes than I get a rats nest on the bottom or break my thread b/c something is hanging up. Didn't know if you had some good hints.

Tippmann has a needle and thread guide on their site. Whatever thread you choose, their chart will tell you the needle size to buy. For what it's worth, I buy 277 thread, use it in the top and bottom, and without a doubt, use the chisel needles. If you buy the Boss, be sure to also immediately buy a pack of chisel needles. For whatever reason, the needles that are included with the boss do not have an angled chisel on them - they are chiseled, but it slices parallel to the stitch line instead of angled - at least not the ones I received nor do the needles of another forum member that just received his new Boss.

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particle   

I haven't bought needles in a while - but I purchased them from Tippmann. Someone posted in a thread a month or two ago with a link to a needle manufacturer that showed a ton of different styles of needles and the resulting stitch. Maybe someone will chime in and guide you to that thread.

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TOM123   

I haven't bought needles in a while - but I purchased them from Tippmann. Someone posted in a thread a month or two ago with a link to a needle manufacturer that showed a ton of different styles of needles and the resulting stitch. Maybe someone will chime in and guide you to that thread.

Campbell Bosworth has lots of info here is some links

http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/3_125

http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/supply/needles.html

I have ordered for them all orders came with out a problem, very nice to talk to on the phone, helpful too.

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Okay - I got my Boss, have practiced a bunch with it - at least to the point of using the entire sample bobbin that shipped with the machine, and even made a quick sheath for my round knife. I'm using the standard leather needle and thread that was included with the machine, which I believe is 277.

Last night I attempted to sew my first holster with it. It's obvious I needed a little more practice... One thing I quickly found was that I needed to plan the direction I sew better as the heel of the foot dug into the leather pretty severely where it wasn't flat (was sewing an avenger style). I also think I need to use the overstitch wheel to mark my stitch locations so I can plan a little better for corners and such. Plus, this will allow me to possibly run the wheel over the back side of the leather to round up the stitches and make it look a little cleaner... Some places it looked like the bobbin thread wasn't being pulled up into the leather, while other places (and my practice pieces sewn in the scraps from when I cut out the holster pieces - same leather) looked just fine. One stitch actually skipped as I turned a corner - I ended up pulling all the thread and sewed the opposite direction through the same holes.

Anyway, I'm curious to see what some other holster maker's backside (of their holsters....) looks like for comparison. Maybe since I've been hand sewing I'm expecting too much, but I still think it should look a little better than it currently does. I'll try to post pics tonight. Please show me yours if it was sewn on a Boss.

One of the harness makers I just bought my sewing machine from told me to use next size down thread for the bobbin

compared to your main thread....try that maybet it will make a difference

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Reaper   

Have a question about lubing thread....

I am sending my Boss in for a total rebuild as it will not hold tension and it snaps needles so often that I can not get 2 inches of stitching done before it breaks one.

Anyway, I am also picking up a few of the things I need at the same time to be shipped back with my machine.

Bobbins, Thread, Needles are on the short list, but I was wondering about the Lube Attachment and Lube. Would it be something I could actually get some use out of doing Holsters, Saddle Bags, Belts and possibly Rifle Boots ?

Will it be more trouble using it than it is worth or should I not worry about lube?

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Denster   

Have a question about lubing thread....

I am sending my Boss in for a total rebuild as it will not hold tension and it snaps needles so often that I can not get 2 inches of stitching done before it breaks one.

Anyway, I am also picking up a few of the things I need at the same time to be shipped back with my machine.

Bobbins, Thread, Needles are on the short list, but I was wondering about the Lube Attachment and Lube. Would it be something I could actually get some use out of doing Holsters, Saddle Bags, Belts and possibly Rifle Boots ?

Will it be more trouble using it than it is worth or should I not worry about lube?

More trouble than it is worth. If you are using bonded nylon or poly it is just not necessary.

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Reaper   

More trouble than it is worth. If you are using bonded nylon or poly it is just not necessary.

Thank you Denster. I wish I had read this again before making my order. I'll have to call them in the morning and see about having the bottle and lube removed from the order if I can catch it before shipping. If not, I'll give it a try and see if it does make any difference one way or the other...

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i know that they have a bolt on the inside of the machine you can reach when u pop the back panel off. this bolt will be what stops the pull handle and if the nut is too far up on the bolt inside then your handle pull is not going down far enough and that is directly related to how far the bobbin is going to turn back and forth and will cause missed stitches, this will cause missed stitches. that being said your handle pull controls the bobbin rotation so if your pulls start lacking then you are going to affect the bobbins rotation and this will affect the loop so you need to have that nut and bolt adjusted and have all your tensions adjusted and don't forget, you are part of the machine. if you change that handle pull at all you'll be the one that causes the missed stitches.

if your pull doesn't go up enough it won't provide enough slack for the loop to free in the bobbin case and if u don't pull down enough then you won't catch that loop, thats the best way i can describe it.

hope this helps

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trekster   

Admittedly, I am new to this forum and am trying diligently to learn the Tippmann Boss that I just acquired (used). After completely dis-assemblying the machine, and putting it back together, with new (and less) lubricant; I am now in the process of learning the finer points of the tension adjustments as well as presser foot pressure. I've already had a few short phone conversations with Ben (at Tippmann) and he has been very helpful in getting me started. Of course I've read almost everything there is on these forums, watched the Tippmann DVD at length and read the manual in my quest to shorten my learning curve.

One thing I would like to toss out, that Ben said to me, has to do with the tension settings between the needle thread and the bobbin thread. I know the manual (and DVD) indicate the bobbin tension should be approximately 1 pound. However, I noted in something I've read from another user that 1 pound is too strong and that bobbin tension should be set lighter, but not so light that the bobbin thread is "free-wheeling". I believe that user also stated stitch quality would be better with the lighter thread tensions.

Ben indicated to me that, "as a general rule of thumb", the needle thread tension, when pulled directly from the tube at the top of the machine, should be about twice the tension of the bobbin thread when pulled up from the bobbin.

In other words, no matter what the bobbin tension is set to, the needle thread tension should be about double that.

I'm wondering if any other users have found this to be the case, or if they have ever measured the different tensions and compared the two; needle thread to bobbin thread?

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I know this is a very old thread but I gained a lot of good information from it over the last 3 years as I tried to get my Boss to stitch on any kind of regular basis.  I am posting pictures of a magazine carrier I made, many thanks to JLS leather for the pattern, and would like any suggestions on the stitching and also would ask if other with the Boss have more issues with colored thread than white, I finally got it to sew with the brown but it is much stiffer and more critical on the tension adjustments.  The white just seems to flow.

Thanks,

Todd

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