SLP

Wet Forming After Antique Finish

12 posts in this topic

Please forgive me if I'm not doing this right. This is my first time on any forum. I am attempting to construct a holster with an antique finish. I am curious if wet forming will destroy the finish. I have tooled the leather (6-7oz) and plan to line with 3-4oz. I'm using eco flo gel antique. I don't want to do any intense moulding that will destroy the tooling, but I would like a snug fit. Do I just antique finish first and accept that some will be removed while wetting and forming? I plan to "seal" with super shene. Between the cement and super sheen I assume the water will take longer to penetrate sufficiently to form. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would mold first then antique then seal. When yo seal you are trying to make it water resistant also the Eco Flo is a water based product you stand a good chance of washings ome of the antiquing away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks,Camano Ridge. I wanted to keep my stitching nice and white. So, would you suggest gluing, molding, antique finish, then stitching? I will be hand stitching, so it would be possible to do it after molding. The only problem I see with that is I have to stitch portions of the liner before I stitch the seam. I just don't know how to do it while keeping the antique gel from getting in the stitches and covering the thread.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It sounds like you may need to stitch it twice. Stitch, form, allow to dry, antique (if you must!), allow to dry, cut stitching out and re-stitch. Poly thread may resist the antique better than nylon, but I don't see white stitching staying white either way. I have cut the stitching and re-stitched a few times -- but there is a proportionate price increase, too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you JLSleather. I have seen many of your posts on the forum, and you have already helped me out more than you know. Your stitch twice recommendation is a great idea I hadn't considered. I now remember reading about that before. It's a jagged pill to swallow, but it seems like the best if not only way to accomplish what I'm after. Thank you very much for your help. I've never been a member of a forum before, and I'm proud that this is my first one. The people on here are extremely knowledgeable and helpful. I've had a thousand questions about leather that have all been answered by searching online, and probably 85% of my answers have come from this forum. I only hope that in some time, I can be as helpful to others as you guys have been to me. Thank you again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey SLP, I use the Fiebings liquid antique quite a bit and it absolutely will rub off if you try and wet mold it and it will turn clean white stitching a mess. I can get by with a quick dunk then fitting the pistol into the holster then leaving it alone to dry, but if I start rubbing my thumbs on it the finish immediately starts to rub off. If I want white stitching I apply the antique and let it dry for a day or so then rub it down good with liquid glycerin saddle soap to try and get any bleed off gone and sometimes I'll also put a coat of finish on it before stitching to try and keep them nice and white.

Good luck, hopefully you can figure out a way to get what you're after.

Josh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tips Josh.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I decided to keep the forming to a minimum.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a couple pics

post-66751-0-21065100-1448318330_thumb.j

post-66751-0-89318500-1448318365_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Even after a few coats of leather sheen, when I wet the leather to bend it into the final shape a fair amount of the antique started to come off, so I decided not to push my luck. I just got it into the general shape. Just laziness I guess after spending so long on it, but I didn't want to re stitch. although I think re-stitching after applying the antique finish when fully moulded would have been the ideal procedure. Thanks again to all you guys for your input.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks really good but 2 small things I would have done different. First, I either would have used a smaller snap (line 20 instead of a line 24) or I would have made the retaining strap a little wider. Second, I would have cut the strap shorter so it ended just beyond the snap instead of having it extend what looks like about 2"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now