Dave Richardson

Using the Al Stohlman book

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So I got the Al Stohlman How to make holsters book and tried the" make your own pattern". It said leave at least 1/2 inch for the stitch line, I did and it turned out so small I couldnt get the gun in. The second one I cut out will make someone a nice LEFT handed holster....Im right handed ! This is my third attempt. I left 1 inch for stitching and came in 1/2 inch for stitch line then trimmed, then dressed it up alittle. Its 8 OZ latigo with latigo lace. I made it for myself. Thanks for looking and comments are always welcome

0420171633 (360x640) (Small).jpg

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Looks good and you've gotten some well learned experience ;) Biggest issue with a lot of the info in the old books is they don't take into account the current equipment we will be using them with. I'm not a shooter or collector but I'd have to guess that the old 6 shooters weren't as thick as today's pistols, especially in the barrel area so we need to make adjustments for that. And I made the same mistake with a knife sheath I made for myself, made it for a lefty and I'm a righty

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Looks like you got it figured out pretty good. I make a lot of holsters and I started out with Al Stolman's book, many years ago. When I make my pattern I usually keep it .75" away from the tracing of the gun, for both lacing and stitching. Most of my holsters laced but I do a few stitched ones too.

Your holster looks great!

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I haven't made a holster yet so I can't judge too effectively aside from it looking damn cool. You nailed the tri-weave stamping it looks like.

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Very cool holster! I have a love hate relationship with tri-weave stamps - love the look, hate trying to keep the damn thing lined up.  Your stamping looks great. I love the classic style holster with that futuristic Ruger. Almost looks Steampunk. Good work.

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The first holster I made was for the Colt .45, and I faithfully copied the pattern out of the Al Stohman book.   Great patterns, but the ones I've used have all needed about 6-7mm added to the width, or they are just too tight to get a gun into.

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I always wanted to (or felt I needed to) use just a little bit heavier leather than Al Stohlman prescribed and this would make a pattern just a little too small and as for left handed, just turn the right handed pattern over and voila!

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I admit it.. I never did - and still don't -- "get" that thing about tracing the gun.  I mean, I get the idea, but .. well, just google "parallax" ;)

I mean, you can change the distance  of the pattern just by changing the diameter of the PENCIL!!@#!

 

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Posted (edited)

On 4/20/2017 at 6:16 PM, Dave Richardson said:

It said leave at least 1/2 inch for the stitch line

Yours says 1/2"?  Cuz mine says make the pattern 3/4" offset. (???)

On 4/20/2017 at 6:16 PM, Dave Richardson said:

1 inch for stitching and came in 1/2 inch for stitch line then trimmed,

This is roughtly what Stohlman said.  He says to leave 3/4", then move in 3/16" for the stitch line (leaving the stitch about 9/16" from teh pistol).  You left 1", then came in 1/2" (leaving the stitch line about 1/2" from the pistol).  So, about the same thing ;)

As for teh left/right thing, most of us have made that mistake [at least once].

Edited by JLSleather

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Dave I am a tri-weave fan and also really like the lacing touch around the flap edges. Nice work and nice looking pistol too.

I agree that the book patterning guides need a little more room as his leather weight guide is lighter than I generally use. And for sure I have learned to watch even  more for the chunkier semi-autos or big barrelled revolvers... and rails...etc.

I must have been ambidextrous when I started because 50% of the holsters I made were lefties! Now every pattern gets a big sharpie shout out "RH this side UP" marked on it... immediately.

JLS I am not sure what you mean by the comment "I never did - and still don't -- "get" that thing about tracing the gun"... your own tutorials talk about tracing the outline so I assume you do but were working towards making the valid point made about watching how you trace... parallax, (perpendicular, etc)... so other than being very careful and consistent with the mechanics when tracing (which is a hard thing to "get")  I don't see another way to pattern. (maybe card stock and stapling around the gun but...) Just curious.

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Thank you everyone for the comments, I use them as a grade card of sorts. As for tracing...I have some friends and family out of state that like the holsters I make, I wondered if tracing was a way to make a holster without having the pistol or a bluegun. I agree with what has been pointed out that the gun thickness, leather thickness, and how you trace all changes final outcome. On this build, the stitch line is 1/2 inch out from the traced line, thats different than cutting the leather 1/2, or 3/4 inch as correctly pointed out by jlsleather, out from the trace line. For this build the 1/2 inch stitch line made for a snug fit that should "break in " just right. I think if the stitch line was 3/4 inch out from the trace line the fit would have been a little loose. For me....cut leather 1 inch out from trace line, glue edges, come in 1/2 inch from edge ( easy even numbers lol ) stitch, then trim to 1/4 inch of stitch line, put left handed holster in box of shame and cut out right handed holster ....TBD if this will work for different pistols ????

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