stiffbackjack

splitter blade sharpening

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I need to get a american 6" splitter blade sharpened. Anyone recommend a good place?

Anyone recommend some 0ne.Thanks Jack

 

Edited by Northmount
removed excess white space

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Are you sure that it’s at the point where you need to send it out?  What does the blade look like? 

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You could in check your local saw and scissor sharpening service. Many of these places are capable and have some pro machinery. Although doing a lot of buffing and stroping may need your touch. 

Good day

Floyd

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If you REALLY trust your local general sharpening service, or even the local knife sharpening service try them. Also have a back up blade just in case. I have seen some real basket case pictures from shops that don't understand these. 

There are a few of us that do them. Art Van Hecke does blades. Right now I am getting ready for the Prescott show and wont't have a slot open until I am back after March 8th. Once I am back, I ask people to contact me first but I can usually do them on an overnight turnaround. Unless a blade is really bad - I am at $15-20 average plus $8 return shipping by small flat rate box priority mail. 

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8 hours ago, bruce johnson said:

If you REALLY trust your local general sharpening service, or even the local knife sharpening service try them. Also have a back up blade just in case. I have seen some real basket case pictures from shops that don't understand these. 

There are a few of us that do them. Art Van Hecke does blades. Right now I am getting ready for the Prescott show and wont't have a slot open until I am back after March 8th. Once I am back, I ask people to contact me first but I can usually do them on an overnight turnaround. Unless a blade is really bad - I am at $15-20 average plus $8 return shipping by small flat rate box priority mail. 

Hope ya didn't mind me throwing your name out there... I haven't seen Art on here in awhile.

Edited by bikermutt07

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10 hours ago, bruce johnson said:

I have seen some real basket case pictures from shops that don't understand these. 

 Do you mind mentioning what I should be looking at to see if mine is currently a "basket case," and what someone might have done to it to cause that?  thanks,

YinTx

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I have had people send pictures of blades or blades themselves done by professional shops with deep wavey edges and divots. some have severe grit marks - they never got past about 80 grit. some are longer front to back one end vs the other by a large amount. A few of these don't have enough material left to salvage the blade. The best options for a local service would be one who is proficient with doing wood plane blades. 

Things to check on an as-found blade are fairly straight edge and minimal chips at the cutting edge area (chips at the very tips don't concern me as much)

 

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FYI - I had ordered a new blade for my American LS440 from Pilgrim (if my memory serves me).  It came in hollow ground and sharp as could be.  

I did have to adjust the blade a bit to fit my machine as the blade was made for a Landis.  I just had to shave a mm or two from the far edges to bring it closer to the roller’s edge nothing big. 

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I think taking your blade to someone that does scissors and knives is risky unless they have experience with splitter blades.  I agree with Bruce, someone that is good at sharpening planer blades would be a better choice to try. End of the day, I would sent it to someone that is known to be able to correctly sharpen my splitter blade, getting back a poorly sharpened blade can be much worse than a dull blade, especially if you end up having to replace your blade.

I have a Tormek sharpening system and was able to adapt their planer blade jig to sharpen my splitter blades.  However knowing how long it takes me to sharpen a blade, I think Bruce's offer of $15-20 to sharpen your blade is a very reasonable cost.  If I wasn't in a different country, I would likely use his service and use the time saved to work on other things.

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I think Weaver Leather has a sharpening service.  Give them a call.

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On 2/18/2018 at 8:53 AM, bruce johnson said:

A few of these don't have enough material left to salvage the blade.

Thanks for the details on what to look for.  Next time I pull my blade, I'll take a look.  I noted the one time I had it out, that the bottom of it had some lines scored in it.  I may try to lap those out, and I may follow your advice and get a new blade for a spare backup.  Will any blade that fits a Landis do, or should I be looking for new old stock, new stock, etc?

YinTx

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Thanks everyone for your input.I could not find anyone in Oklahoma that could sharpen the blade.I decided to try to sharpen the blade myself.The blade had a small nick in corner and looked like someone had used a file on it.I have DMT plates,x course.course,fine,x fine and hard ark stones.I figure if I messed it up I havn't lost much.So I sharpened the blade.It has taken a couple hours but,the edge is coming back nicely.About 95% of file marks are gone. I'll be putting the blade back in splitter this weekend.I'll let everyone know how it works out,Jack

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 2/20/2018 at 0:35 AM, YinTx said:

Will any blade that fits a Landis do, or should I be looking for new old stock, new stock, etc?

YinTx

The blade specifications are the same for the American LS440 and the Landis P30 however the tolerances for these units weren’t the greatest. 

Sometimes the replacement blades (from Pilgrim) are a perfect fit and sometimes they take a little modification to dial it in perfectly.  I struggled for a bit but was able to get it right by notching the corners to bring the blade closer to the roller. 

Its helpful to get a set of feeler gauges to set everything including the roller height, blade setback, etc. 

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1 hour ago, Webicons said:

Sometimes the replacement blades (from Pilgrim) are a perfect fit

Thank you for that info.  Are the blades from Pilgrim OEM, or otherwise?  My Landis is a Model D.  Thanks,

YinTx

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Thanks for the information Webicons.After 40 years as a diesel machanic feeler I have plenty of.Does yours split clean after putting new blade? Jack

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2 hours ago, YinTx said:

Are the blades from Pilgrim OEM, or otherwise? 

The blades are not OEM but are of excellent quality. The hollow grind is machined, perfectly square and arrives sharp.  

I don’t recall the person I spoke with but he definitely knew what he was talking about and a solid guy.  

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2 hours ago, stiffbackjack said:

Does yours split clean after putting new blade? 

Yes.  After I fiddled with it for a few days I was able to split veg tan easily and cleanly.  After it was dialed in I was also able to split floppy chrome tan as well. 

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Thanks, Webicons.  I think a sharpening service is a worthwhile expense if you don't have the equipment and experience to do them correctly.  If mine doesn't do well after I touch it up, I'll take advantage of it.  Possibly a minor touch up as a DIY would be ok, I only found one video on it.  Lots for doing the woodworking planes, which is good.  here is the one splitter sharpening video I saw that seemed worthwhile.  Although I cringe at flattening the cutting edge like they do, but I understand why they do it (to make sure there is a true straight edge).  Just feels painful for the blade and the stone!

YinTx

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Okay, What the H@($% did they make those old blades out of?????  I noted a few small light gouges on the bottom of mine, and thought  "I'll just touch it up some."

After 2 hours on the DIAMOND hone, I managed to pull up the tiniest of burrs.  My arms are killin me!  However, after another 30 minutes working through the stones, and another 10 minutes on the strop, this thing will scare the wind, split it from East to West no problem.  I put a scrap piece through, didn't hear a sound, thought I had it set wrong, but no, a beautiful split!

And I never did work the marks out of the backside.  

YinTx

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Hi

 

I have and operate a Tormek 10" sharpening system and have put an edge on my American spliter using the planar blade attachment at least as good as the factory original.  The key is hollow grinding to 20 degs with a shaping wheel only if needed then a fine stone wheel followed by an edge polishing wheel.  Razor sharp results that will last and slice leather with ease.

Silverd

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