panchoskywalker

Question about lining a leather bag

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Hello, 

 

I started to build a canvas bag like the one on the picture and I have a doubt about the lining. I have decided to add a zipper in the middle of the lining to have acces to the chicago screws I pretend to use (green arrow), just in case they come off someday. 

Question: I am still not sure how to build the bag so the complication on the BLUE arrow is underneath the lining since I pretend to stitch the exterior and the lining in ONLY 1 stitch so that complication should be visible from the inside, is there a problem with that? Is there a way to avoid that?

 

sbwIQcX.jpg 

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Not sure exactly what you are asking.  Regarding the Chicago screws on the strap, I would use brass rivets instead and eliminate the zipper.  I mean the zipper on the lining.

Edited by Tugadude

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6 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

Not sure exactly what you are asking.  Regarding the Chicago screws on the strap, I would use brass rivets instead and eliminate the zipper.  I mean the zipper on the lining.

That would be ideal but I don't have the proper tool to install the rivet nicely, I only have a punch tool which is never really nice, at least with the rivet I can buy here, so I though that going with chicago screws was a good compromise.

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I would try to find a solution that doesn’t include a zipper. Here are some ideas I would consider if I were making the bag.

  1. apply glue (Loctite or super glue) to the threads to keep them from coming apart.
  2. glue the Chicago screw to the canvas and then glue another small piece of canvas on the inside to cover the back of the screw. This would work to “lock” the back of the screw. 
  3. Tighten the screw as tight as possible, assume the chance of it coming unscrewed is low. If it comes apart in future deal with it then. 

Another option is to put the screws through canvas and lining.  In my opinion, the screws would look fine on the inside.

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11 hours ago, terryHHI said:

apply glue (Loctite or super glue) to the threads to keep them from coming apart.

This...unless you want to make it harder.  I've disassembled quite a few handbags and everyone of them that had screw/post hardware had to remove the stitching from the lining before i could get to the back of the screw, and most were sealed with a sort of hot glue from what i can tell...kept them from turning but peeled off fairly easily once i got to them...a couple of them were superglued, maybe jb welded...lol

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Whether you use rivets or screw posts be sure to use a piece of leather inside about 2mm thick or more and about 2" or 50mm wide to distribute the pull over a broader area. Probably goes with out mentioning but just thought best to mention in case. I would just do a piece to cover across both in one piece. You may want to skive the edges of it a little.

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10 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

Whether you use rivets or screw posts be sure to use a piece of leather inside about 2mm thick or more and about 2" or 50mm wide to distribute the pull over a broader area. Probably goes with out mentioning but just thought best to mention in case. I would just do a piece to cover across both in one piece. You may want to skive the edges of it a little.

Actually glad you mentioned that as the canvas, while strong would likely tear over time.  So sandwiching the canvas between the leather is a great idea.

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Your bag is looking good so far.  I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.
Thanks for the pictures.  It helps me to understand how a bag is constructed. 

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Well it's the first bag I make so I am also learning as I progress.

I've been thinking a lot about how to continue from now on: should I stitch the sides first and then the zipper or first the zipper and then close the sides and I've came to the conclusion that I have to install the zipper first as it does separate I will be still be able to turn the bag inside out to stitch the zipper from the inside and the outside. If I close the sides first I will only be able to stich the zipper from the outside.

 

Well I still have to think about it :-)

Edited by panchoskywalker

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If I was making this bag, I would have made the straps go all the way under the bag and up the other side, not just stitched up the sides. I prefer to take the weight of whatever is being carried on the handles, not on the side walls of the bag.

Having said that, you are doing an excellent job. I bet anybody in the market for this type of bag, would be happy to own it.

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9 hours ago, Rockoboy said:

If I was making this bag, I would have made the straps go all the way under the bag and up the other side, not just stitched up the sides. I prefer to take the weight of whatever is being carried on the handles, not on the side walls of the bag.

Having said that, you are doing an excellent job. I bet anybody in the market for this type of bag, would be happy to own it.

Good advice, thank you.

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Hello,

At the end I did add a zipper at the bottom of the lining and it was a good idea but not for the reason I though. From the way I built the bag that zipper was actually the only way to turn the bag inside out once I closed the sides of the lining and the outer fabric.

Now, as you can see on the pictures, I must close the corners and I have to decide wether I close the lining and the outer fabric separately or together. If I stitch them together I would see the stitching from the inside and if I do it separately there will be no stitching visible from the inside (which is good) but the lining would not be attached in any way inside the bag, it would be floating inside the bag.

So I'd like to have your opinion on what to do and also, if I stitch them separately, which looks like the best option, how can I attach the lining so it is not floating. Did I missed something somewhere?

 

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Looking at what you are trying to accomplish, I don't see a better option than sew lining and sew outside separate. As for it not being attached, the lining is attached at the zipper isn't it? That should be more than enough to keep it in place. Especially once you have something inside to hold it down. If you were to look at even high end lined bags you will see that linings like you have are usually only attached at the top either at a zipper like you or by the top, depending on the style of bag. All that said, you have done a great job with this bag. On future projects you may want to consider your sewing sequence before even cutting out your materials. This one worked out well, but a more complicated project will need to have more definitive steps. Also making a prototype out of cheap materials will help you find any flaws in both design and the sewing sequence.

Really nice work!

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Well actually the lining is just attached to the main zipper, the outside pocket is not attached to the lining, the pocket has an independent pocket. 

This is the prototype of my project, at first I wanted to make it all leather, as I already had the leather I just bought the fabric to make it cheaper.

I was thinking that while I stitch the lining's corner I can add a small piece of fabric that would be stitch to the leather corner's this way it would hold in place, I will check if that possible.

 

Thanks for your opinion.

 

 

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Easiest way would have been to attach a binder strip over the lining and outer all together when inside out then bring right side in back through the zip opening. If putting the lining in as a pocket it is normal to leave a join in the middle at bottom and bring it through the open zip top and fold the edges in then stitch together whilst holding the seam together. Drop it back in and your done. From where you are at now either turn it inside out then stitch the bottom corners together then turn it back the right way and do the seam trick as I said above or you may be able to turn it inside out and put a binder across the bottom corners thereby securing it down and in place.

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If you feel the need to attach the lining to the outer at the bottom of the bag, could you use heat-glue-mat or whatever its called?

Install the mat to the inside of the bottom outer piece, install the lining and last thing to do is iron the lining to activate the heat glue mat thing to adhere lining to the outer.

P.S. I have seen on LW, people prefer to use the heat mat instead of glue. Unless I have misunderstood something.

Edited by Rockoboy

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This may be what others were saying, and just adds to your idea, but what if you added a small leather tab on each corner and then add a tab on the liner in the same spot. Then connect the two tabs by stitching or riveting them together. Would that work?

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1 hour ago, blue duck said:

This may be what others were saying, and just adds to your idea, but what if you added a small leather tab on each corner and then add a tab on the liner in the same spot. Then connect the two tabs by stitching or riveting them together. Would that work?

Actually, that's what I was planning to do, mostly because I can always undo it if I don't like it.

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Here are some new pics. I used those snaps, one on each corner, on the inside lining and outer and it gives the lining a flat apparence which works fine for me. 

 

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Here's the almost finished product. waxing is the final step.

There are some flaws here and there but minimal, the rolled handles are a bit on the large side but not that much, first rolled handles I make.

I am quit happy with the bag and also with the learning process. The bottom of the bag is soft, that's not a problem but  I wonder which material should I use if would want to make it hard, like in this video at 4'31.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aANdScynqlA

Pictures:

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Edited by panchoskywalker

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Texon board ( there are other brands as well) as used in shoe making for the insoles is used quite commonly. It can be stitched but holds is shape fairly well. If you want it extra stiff use some 3 ply instead or as well glued on after stitching.

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Here's the final product, waxed and with Lefa cardboard at bottom (which is the equivalent to texon I guess)

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Lefa board and Texon are very similar but I thought the Lefa was only quite thin. The Texon comes in 2 or 3mm and I would have picked the 3mm. Looks very nice at any rate.:thumbsup:

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