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Anyone have experience using Fiebing's Pro Resist and can you cut it with water to apply with an air brush like Resolene? It's seem very thinck to apply it as supplied form. Thanks.

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I’ve airbrushed it on one time.

It resisted very well but it left a “plasticky” appearance that I was not a fan off. The top grain looked totally non-existent. Just a very smooth hi-gloss surface.

When I spray on Tan-Kote, the antique paste will still find its way into some of the grain. With the Pro Resist, it only falls into your tooling, stamping and carving. For some, I’m sure that seems like a very desirable effect but not at the cost of things looking synthetic afterwards. Again, I have only airbrushed on Pro Resist once and it totally transform the look. 

When I get time in the future I will do it again and document my results on this thread.

Edited by howlback

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@howlback Your comments are right on. I finally applied it with a the recommended damp sponge and found exactly the results you describe. I too like a little bit of a "dirty" antique look or my leather to look like leather when I'm done.

I have been spraying a 50/50 Resolene/water mix before antiquing (usually 2 or 3 light coats). Never tried the Tan-Kote but I will put that on my list. Do you cut it for spraying?

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@Instinctive I don’t cut it but I probably should because it doesn’t spray as easily as resolene. Then again, I don’t even cut resolene but only because I just haven’t really experimented. I do notice that my airbrush will clog if I don’t keep things flowing (more so with resolene). Regarding Tan Kote, I favor its resin like qualities because it almost sticks on like spray glue where resolene or pro resist will pool like water if I spray on too much.

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