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Hello

 

Can you help me?  I'm looking at getting a 1950s Singer 15-32.  There doesn"' seem to be much information about it on the internet apart from that it is the more robust sister to the Tailor's Singer 31-15.  I want to work on horse gear - thick canvas, horse rugs, 1/4 wool felt and soft bag leather.  I have read that it will cope admirably - is this the case?

 

Would very much appreciate any advice and opinions on the  31-32 and also the 31-15.  Also, if anyone knows of any info on line anywhere ......

 

Many thanks :)

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Head on over to the sewing machine portion of this forum. This has been discussed in great detail by Wiz and others. I actually have a file on my desktop of some of their tips (mostly Wiz), and I pasted a small sample here. I still highly recommend you go to the source.

 

"First, I will address the machines seen on eBay, sold as Industrial Strength sewing machines. Most are all metal and proudly state that fact. The sellers talk about the "powerful" 1.2 or 1.5 amp motors that are attached. Some even have ribbed drive belts and gear reduction, to eliminate slippage when sewing thick material. No doubt these are strong machines. I have a few myself. I have 2 old iron body Singers and a metal body Kenmore, even an ancient White Rotary machine. Will they sew leather? Yes, two layers of 2 to 4 oz garment leather. Will they sew leather with nylon thread? Yes, but no bigger than #69 nylon. Will they smoothly feed garment leather as it is sewn? Yes, as long as it is fairly small in size and weight and not stitcky on the top grain. If the top is sticky, no way, Jose. Sticky vinyl and leather usually gets dragged back by the top pressor foot and the stitches are either too short, or filigree the material, or skip frequently."

----

"I have watched the take-up levers on cast iron home sewing machines bend or snap off, under the strain of using #138 thread, while trying to sew 5/16" of veg-tan leather. The slightest thread jam in the bobbin throws them totally out of time. Tensions are hard to balance and they don't hold much thread, once you go beyond size 69."

---

Best of luck to you. I have a singer 15 in my workshop right now that I'm trying to get up and running just for thin garment weight leather. I've little motivation however, because saddle stitching by hand on the small items I'm usually making looks so nice and is meditative for me. For someone doing large or high volume leather sewing I'm sure its very different!

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AmyK! You have your own character on South Park? I really need to do that. Seriously, thanks for your post, it kind of nails what people are faced with on Google searches, or Amazon and Ebay.

Jeff

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@marronne Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines.  You'll get more info and feedback here.

Tom

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On 1/8/2019 at 6:27 AM, marronne said:

Hello

 

Can you help me?  I'm looking at getting a 1950s Singer 15-32.  There doesn"' seem to be much information about it on the internet apart from that it is the more robust sister to the Tailor's Singer 31-15.  I want to work on horse gear - thick canvas, horse rugs, 1/4 wool felt and soft bag leather.  I have read that it will cope admirably - is this the case?

 

Would very much appreciate any advice and opinions on the  31-32 and also the 31-15.  Also, if anyone knows of any info on line anywhere ......

 

Many thanks :)

I found this: " Same as 31-15 except fitted with reversible drop feed. For cloth. (10/1952) "

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The 31 class are for tailors, seamstresses and decorative shoe uppers. Some later models can be tweaked to use #92 and possibly even #138 thread (mine cannot). But, they are very light duty machines with bottom feed and soft tension and pressure springs. You need to move up to a different class of machine to sew rugs and tack. Check out the CB2500.

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The GA5 machines are popular for folks sewing horse blankets. 

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Thanks everyone.  I eventually purchased a really good condition Singer 29k58 and a German Claes Atlas machine which needs some renovation but is a beast of a machine especially for heavy duty leather work.  It has 8cm harpoons for needles!  Which I'm trying to find at the moment - I have one but would like to have a stock!  The posts by Matt S and Wizcrafts on deciphering numbers on needle packets is a real help to understanding the different systems.

A pic of my Atlas is below.  She's oiled and is turning.  The inside is remarkably clean considering she's been in a barn for years.  She desperately needs some TLC.  Looking fwd to getting her up and running properly.  May re-do the japanning on the bed but will certainly be leaving the decals on the stand alone - just gentle cleaning and polishing.  Some of her metal bits have responded well already!  This machine is not well know in the US nor in the UK.  I'm in France (but I'm English and she's German :/ )  Looking for a nice bit of wood for a table and proper Atlas treadle irons - someone put her on a Singer treadle.  She was used on a Trotter's Yard here in France to make and repair harnesses for the horses.

20190206_152132.thumb.jpg.544c553bb2534b6751f9ccf0af69ac11.jpg

 

 

20190206_152125.jpg

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What a beast of a machine! I reckon that one would pull a bogged truck out of a mud-hole!

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Thats actually and ADLER II or III - I had one of these - very cool and smooth machine it was but :wub: Yours even has the gear reduction!

You also find them branded with CLAES, ATLAS or DROSSNER and other brands.

I think I still have the copy of the German manual - let me check...

 

EDIT - looks like an Adler II...

later...

 

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On 10/02/2019 at 12:41 PM, Constabulary said:

Thats actually and ADLER II or III - I had one of these - very cool and smooth machine it was but :wub: Yours even has the gear reduction!

You also find them branded with CLAES, ATLAS or DROSSNER and other brands.

I think I still have the copy of the German manual - let me check...

 

EDIT - looks like an Adler II...

later...

 

Did you manage to find your manual Constabulary?  I'm looking for needles (harpoons) for her now - they measure 7cm from tip of shank to top of eye and are approx 2mm diameter.  I've seen that there are some Leo Lammertz needles around on the internet - someone trying to sell a pack of 10 for 30 euros !  Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations?

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Yes, I have one for the Adler II and Adler III - I can send you both when you send me a PM with your email address.

I have used 794 needles back then. System 794 needles are approx 68-70mm long so I think whey could work IF the needle you have is the original needle - you never know.

This was my project back then:

 

 

Edited by Constabulary

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Amazing!  What a transformation.  The Adler is like the Atlas twin!

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5 hours ago, Constabulary said:

Yes, I have one for the Adler II and Adler III - I can send you both when you send me a PM with your email address.

I have used 794 needles back then. System 794 needles are approx 68-70mm long so I think whey could work IF the needle you have is the original needle - you never know.

This was my project back then:

 

 

 

Just dug out the needle that came with the Atlas and put it under the magnifying glass - it's a METWAR 200.  Is that sounding about right for the machine?  

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1 hour ago, marronne said:

 

Just dug out the needle that came with the Atlas and put it under the magnifying glass - it's a METWAR 200.  Is that sounding about right for the machine?  

Metwar would be a German brand name from yesteryear (Metwar is now Groz Beckert). #200 is the same as a US #25 needle. It is the size needed to sew with #277 bonded thread, or 4 cord linen thread, top and bottom.

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8 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Metwar would be a German brand name from yesteryear (Metwar is now Groz Beckert). #200 is the same as a US #25 needle. It is the size needed to sew with #277 bonded thread, or 4 cord linen thread, top and bottom.

Brilliant!  Thanks for the info Wizcrafts :)

Edited by marronne
Where does this sit in the needle sizing table?

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