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I made a bigger jig like this years ago, out of thick plastruct plastic sheets, and used chicago screws as the pivot points. To make it a little more versatile, I sized the centering holes the same size as the other holes, and with a couple more screws that allowed me to add a third arm in the center which can be exchanged for different needs, exactly the same length as the ones at the edge. Need extra small belt holes? Make a center arm with small holes that fit that small punch. Need an oblong for the buckle tongue? Make a center arm, use that oblong to punch the plastic the right size and orientation and your oblong is centered and as straight as you were able to make get the plastic. You can also make a couple of holes in the edge arms and add a stiff wire pointer to set up hole spacing to help you move the jig the right distance for even holes. I took the idea so far as to put the design into cad software with a measurement scale on the arms to assist with spacing, and some accessories with the intent of having it laser cut in some nice clear plastic! Unfortunately, before the laser cut folks could get to my project, they went out of business. So, for now - my old jig still works even if it doesn't have all the niceties. - Bill

And if you think the BBC are the only ones doing this shit your dumb enough to believe them.

I found this while perusing YouTube. A ton of good info, names, numbers and contact info and Bruce hisself lol. I have no idea where to post it, so you mods can figure that out.

Need more info, how was this jig made, I need a bit more depth Need more info, how was this jig made, I need a bit more depth

This is a question that needs addressing. I feel that many of the videos that are out there are misleading inasmuch as hard thick leather is used or the amount of work involved in burnishing is understated. I too have found that the initial sanding raises so much more fibres than expected and I realise that a lot more work is needed to be done and wished I'd left it alone in the first place.

Thank you for your answer. I saw that file too but cannot find the parts, strange enough. I wil send a picture and explain more my question.

OK I'll bite .. how about Ebay . Plenty of ' Faux ' Louie Vuitton on Ebay ...LOL . Also sell scrap Fabric remnants 'claiming' authenticity . also.. Amazon ... Louis Vuitton I always under the impression the LV designs, materials, and patterns are all proprietary owned international copyright. Now doing your own ( LV Artistic Interpretation ) is legal as long as zero reference or labeling is made as Louis Vuitton. I have bought LV knockoff items overseas markets.. LOL, BUT The only way to buy or sell from, or have authorized fabrics Milled Louis Vuitton, is from LV . I don't think that even selling LV remnant fabric bolts or scraps is actually legal to do under LV Lic. agreements. LV might or might not be aggressive as Disney with their Lic. fabrics. Disney is pretty ruthless, and I know someone who was sent a cease and desist from Disney lawyers, after purchasing a large amount of leftover remnant Disney print fabric bolts. .

Will do and report in some time (not all the time in the workshop, where I usually dye leather). Hmm..I never considered it using before dying as I had NFO in my mind as it's finish, not a prep. liquid. But certanly will make some tests in the future, as will test this aswell. Haven't had problems with customers for stiff belts, but I don't prefer it being so stiff, it nearly stands up alone (if holding in 1 hand). Will keep in my mind. I also use resolene vs. water 1:1 ratio (often, not always, depends if I'm not lazy enough to mix it :D ). But there's this great leatherworker I've admired, also on this forum (I think), Road Agent leather. In video here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-QAUSqSrRs), he is using Pro dye, NFO and Fiebing's PRO RESIST (which I assume, is simmilar finish to resolene). And here's the idea I got, that I can use NFO with PRO DYE at first. No, but will check! Thank you. I don't have California sun, but might consider drying it as such. I got Fiebings Leather Balm With Atom Wax, but didn't gave it a chance yet. Will do soon, as only thing at Resolene I dont like most, is it's gloss. I'd prefer more matt finish.

I recently picked up a bench mounted belt sander for cleaning up my work. It seems like I’m making more dust then actually making my work look better. What grit belt do I use? Also do I apply pressure? I’ve been putting my leather on the table and moving it back and forth. I’ve been working with 3 layers on 2-3oz chrome tan leather. Thanks tj

Thank you. I followed the video and now she’s sewing great.

I like the jig idea. Centered and spaced correctly, all at once.

I use these ; Two pins with a hole centred on them. Fits virtually any size of strap or belt. Just put each pin against the belt and the hole is the centre of the belt. I've made 3 of them, just for handiness sake Swivel it and the centre of the strap or belt can be marked. The circles are at 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch. If you want 3/4 inch between holes move the guide so that the 3/4 circle is over your last hole

I couldn't picture that shaft until I went back and looked at one of mine. Now I see it runs in the lower part of the arm! Another lesson learned for me. I, too, will have to double check where it gets oiled.

Use wing dividers. Will get you centered everytime.

For punching belt holes and not having problems . . . take 2 or 3 hours out of your day and make this little jig. It will darn near end all your belt hole problems . . . May God bless, Dwight

You may want to figure out where you are expected to oil that shaft 😉

Damn, but I figured it was a long shot. Thanks for the feedback, guess I'll keep looking then.

A hard lesson. I remember when I was learning to skive (book binding). I decided the knife I had was the problem. So I saved up and bought a nice skiving knife from Chartermade. Beautiful tool. Showed up pristine and ready to work. Took it to the bench and basically had the same problems. Realized I probably just needed to practice. Nothing wrong with having great tools. I've learned a really great tool can let you focus on the skills because your problems will just be you.

DMT Diamond stones (not the hatched pattern ones, the full width kind, metal bed). I tried water stones, sandpaper, etc. Both work, but the diamond stones let me focus on just the sharpening as I was learning. The 3/4" and 1" skiving knives from Lisa Sorrell. Those things came to my door screaming sharp, no break in or touch up required, so I could focus on learning the inlay work, not the sharpening.

Is leatherworker.net a tool? It's been a great learning resource for me.

Besides books, especially by Al Stohlman my other things are; A Tandy Pro-Press. I use it a lot, for pressing stamps, as a clicker press, for making sewing holes with chisels Sets of sewing chisels with different spacing; 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and my stitching pliers and lacing pliers A couple of sewing clamps; a light-weight one for taking out to places and a larger heavier one for use at home base My special stamping table Which is adaptable for various jobs

Thank you!

please post pictures of your machine from the rear and when tilt back from the underside and how you have installed the foot lifter.

yes, that's right, both machines were only fixed/sitting on those rubber feet.