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Try heating it up fairly hot. Often that will soften Loctite and other thread lockers (and many glues / adhesives).

This thread addresses your question about a walking foot. I did a Google search "site leatherworker.net Singer 44-10" and found a lot of information.

I moved your post to leather sewing machines. You'll get more interest in this area. Have you looked through this forum? you will find a number of discussions about servo motors.

I use a pic of Janis Joplin on X as my profile pic. The first song I learned off the radio as a kid was "Me and My Bobby McGee".

I have a Singer 44-10 that has been gathering dust for the past 40+ years until I retired and started getting into leatherwork. Unfortunately the clutch motor is a bit too touchy for me to control the speed. Ive seen where replacing the clutch motor with a servo motor will solve that problem but, not sure which one to get. I would also like to retro fit it with a walking foot but have no idea if that is possible or where to get one if it is. Any recommendations are appreciated Phil

Here is a clamshell purse I've made along with a pancake sheath and a wristlet. These items are going out in the mail today for a birthday present for my Mother. The Pancake sheath is from https://www.instagram.com/don_gonzales/ his original slanted design his newer one is now straight I think I might have gotten the pattern in like 2016 or before I've had it a long time.

Here is a Laptop Sleeve it's from https://www.youtube.com/@artemisantler a pattern he shared on Youtube. My sewing is done with my new leather sewing machine. I've got a bit of control issues going using it.

Thanks mate, it's fitted pretty tight, I'm not sure anything could penetrate and I don't want to force it. If I really want to bother I'll just buy another one as they're even cheaper than when I bought this!

That's kind of what I suspected. I wonder if some of the other parameters aren't arbitrary, too. Example, lowest startup speed. One motor will drop down to 100 rpms, while another stops at 200. If you go to ebay and search for servos, lots of the listings will have pics that include a QR code on the motor and/or box. Scan it with your call phone camera and they ALL drop to the same spec sheet.

Yep, if that's what the customer wants then that's what they get (regardless of having poor taste ).

You can run the 550 watt motor from the 750 watt control unit. The other way is not advisable (750 watt motor on a 550 watt controller) unless you know you won't exceed the 550 watt load.

Thanks. I figured since individual hole punches are supposed to have the leather backed by a pounding board or HDPE that the same would apply to the rotary tool. I'll try without the leather backing though. I noticed today what KS Blade sells punching tools that have no taper. Kind of expensive for me to take a chance on them. Another problem might be, I found out after my post, is twisting the strap on the punch. I've read that can cause tearing. I thought it would help the hole cutting. So, two things to try now.

@dikman, you might try Loctite SF 768 to remove the thread locker - or perhaps acetone.

About 8 minutes into this video, the guy has replaced the front bearing and is resetting the encoder. I wonder if one of those little plastic parts cracked/moved/whatever. The electronics of it still work. Now I really want to take it apart.

Hi I also have just got a used BU Pilot looking forward to getting it to sew

That multi-punch tool you show is meant to stop on the lower anvil. I could see the soft veg tan keeping the cutter from cutting cleanly. Wear and tear on the cutter is just part of using the tool. That tapering effect you get is really the nature of the tool, probably exaggerated by the very small size. I've often wondered if anyone makes a straight sided punch.

No, definitely not a belt. It makes a small winding/grinding sound with no belt. A belt makes it worse and more tension increases the noise. To @chuck123wapati's point about the fan, even if it isn't a bad fan, I'm going to dig up a small 5 VDC computer fan, point it into the motor housing and plug it in to the LED socket on the control box. One thing consistently said about these things is that they make heat at low speeds, exacerbated by the fact that the fan is running slowly. That should be easily solved.

i've seen electric motors break the fan blades located in the rear of the housing They make quite a racket sometimes, i dont know if your motor has one. the blades are usually plastic and can come loose or break.

Janis ROCKS!!!!! I love it, she is an awesome artist indeed.

Just a thought, but if your pulley doesn't wobble and the shaft appears to have no runout, is your belt having a bad section? Just thinking of all options.

I'd have to agree with the acorns and leaves being a poor mix with the geometric pattern... But... It was a request from the end wearer, who wanted a nod to the Major Oak in Sherwood Forest (Robin Hoods tree) which is only a stones throw from my workshop and her home. As the Selfridge saying goes, "the customer is always right, in matters of taste"

@Sblof Just to add to @Wizcrafts info the 135 x 16 needles would be for leather and the 135 x 17 would be used for fabric. An example would be for using V138 thread sewing leather you would need to use 135 X 16 X (size of needle) so you would need 135 X 16 X #23 or #24 depending on the thickness and toughness of the leather. Here is a good chart for selecting needle size for thread size: ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) kgg

I'm having trouble getting a clean cut on the lining side of my straps. I use 1.0mm Zermatt calf waterproof leather, making the hole with a rotary hole punch tool. I use a 1mm piece of veg tan leather underneath the strap so I don't damage the punch tip. Maybe the punch is wearing down. I've tried using single punch tools but even my 1mm makes holes that are much larger than that due to the tapering of the tips. Anyone able to suggest why my holes don't come out more clean on the Zermatt lining? Very nice work!