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@Mocivnik Moved your post to Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners. And to comment on NFO, it is a conditioner used to replace natural oils lost due to dyes and other treatments. It is not a finish. Also finishes (acrylic or lacquer) seal the surface of the leather. It helps prevent loss of natural oils, fats, etc. and blocks addition of oils, liquids, and other stuff that may damage the permanently degrade the appearance of the leather. It can wear off if the article is subject any type of abrasion over time. So a wax is often used to protect the finish and is normally buffed to remove any excess.

Be very careful when repairing a saddle. If a shoe repair fails a person will walk funny for a little bit but if saddlery fails it can lead people to severe injuries. If a stirrup fails a rider can slip or completely fall out of the saddle, if a billet strap fails the rider can wind up under the horse. With that out of the way since you've done some repairs you know a little bit about it. What I've done is bought some cheap saddles. I bought 3 saddles for $150 at auction and I tore the worse of the three apart to learn how it went together and to experiment. I highly recommend Don Gonzales' videos, he gets really in depth with his breakdown and repair videos. TomE makes good recommendations. Also look at some of Springfield Leather Company's video on saddle reconstruction. There are a few videos out there that are horrible for saddle repair so be wary of those. One says she is a master class cobbler but the repairs she make on an English Saddle are really... bad.

Updated the title to represent the actual topic.

As you no doubt know, English saddles and western saddles are 2 completely different items in terms of materials and construction. There are a lot of resources and classes for western saddle making, which will show construction methods that are relevant for repairs. I'd start with the Stohlman's Encyclopedia of Saddle Making from Tandy and also check out books and DVDs at the Leather Crafters Journal online store. Fewer resources available for English saddles. Robert Steinke's books on repairing harness and saddlery are good if you can find/afford them. Joshua Siegel is a skilled saddler in western MA who might be a resource for you. Also, the Facebook Saddle Restoration group includes some skilled saddlers (scattered among many saddle cleaners/flippers). Jack Stewart does saddle repairs for Stubben North America and is a helpful member of the restoration group.

Yo, beyond the meticulous paint job I enjoyed the pictures. And the Christmas decoration was an added touch! ~JL

According to the parts books like it's an "Oil Regulating Screw" - whatever that means! - Bill 255RB-3.pdf Consew255RB-3 parts & opermanual.pdf 255339LSW2BLLSW28BL.pdf

Thanks again Dwight, but no. It's toast. The laptop fell from a table while powered on. I opened the HDD and there's a hard physical crash on the disk surface. I've recovered drives from a minor head touch, but this one you can see bare aluminum through the substrate. - Bill

Check out Don Gonzales he has physical classes. & might offer online classes as well.

Hello folks, I have a Shoe Repair, I have done little saddle repair work. I’d like to get into the saddle repair service. And you recommendations where to start and what to get for startup tools? Are there any online schools? Any comments or recommendations are appreciated. Sam

Calvin & Hobbes in today's paper: 'Mum and dad quietly sitting and reading in front of the open fire . Calvin, getting ready to chuck a snowball: " Incredibly, people NEVER expect to get hit with a snowball IN the house " Hobbes, casually walking away : " I'll see you in your room momentarily " . That's the sort of thing I would have done when I was a kid,if only we had snow. That had me in stitches! Incredibly, 4th year students on the 3rd floor of my high school doing their exams would never expect to get splattered with a rotten tomato . It wasn't me, honest, it was a naughty fellow student. Instead of the tomato going IN the window, it caught the edge of the frame , spraying the students. We got busted big time ! ! HS

It will But you may want to find a version where the control box is separate from the motor. This way the controls can be mounted at the edge of the table where you can play with them. The style you show would require you to climb under the table to tweak any of the settings.

Best way is to fit a speed reducer pulley as well.

I can’t find a manual for the 255rb-1

Dam lol looking to slow it down

it will but depends on your expectations regarding sewing speed. You may need a smaller pulley or speed reducer in addition.

what does the manual or parts list say? I`d guess a drain screw or oil regulating screw for the hook.

Would this work with singer 11w154 to replace the old motor?

I usually make a mess of contact cement. These were better. By a lot. I have a syringe to fill them from a can (kept in the house) and bring one or two of these small glue pens out with me, into the sometimes-frozen leather shop (and radio lab) Anyway, cheap Temu find if anyone wants to try some.

This is a 255rb-1. Can someone tell me what this thing is and how should it be set?

Hi everyone, I have a Landis model 25 or Landis 5 in 1 for sale. The machine is fully refurbished and oiled, rolls smoothly and works like a charm. Skiving blade is freshly sharpened. All parts original except for the spring on the back of the machine which is new. The 5 in 1 has the following functions: - Sole cutter - Sole and heel trimmer - Skiver - Edge beveler - Welt roller The machine has been repainted using high quality spray paint, namely the Montana Gold Metal primer, followed by a coat of color (color ref. "Bone") and high gloss varnish from the same brand. All oiling points have been marked with red. I ask 1350 USD for the machine. I'm a bit flexible with the price but not much. I'm located in Sweden and I can ship it anywhere at the expense of the buyer. Here are some specs: weight: 24 kg or 53 lb shipping weight: 27 kg or 60 lb (will be shipped packed in a box and wrapped tightly in 2" or 5 cm thick polystyrene all around) Height: 61 cm or 2 ft (the top parts can be mounted off for shipping tho, in which case the height lands at about 32 cm or a litte above 1 ft) Width: 42 cm or 16,5" Depth: 20 cm or 8" Comment below or DM me if you're interested Cheers, Grace

That’s really awesome for the inmates (aside from the program being scrapped…)! While I was living in Washington, a penitentiary in Oregon had a similar program, but textiles. Great jeans and flannel. Pendleton something or other... I have no clue if the pens down here have work/trade programs like that. — AZR

I’m trying to cut up boxes and these 2 fools keep getting in the mix.

Thanks!

Thanks for these exercises. First thing is that I needed to figure out what convex and concave meant but now I’m good.

Welcome to the forum! I patiently moved this to Leatherworking Conversation and tweaked the title. It's really a general question so maybe it'll get more traffic over here.