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About Spinner

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    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 02/10/1973

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  • Location
    San Gabriel, CA

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    hand tooled artwork, Harley tank bibs, rear fender bibs, custom tool bags and acrylic painting/custom dying
  • Interested in learning about
    currently studying how handbags, backpacks, etc. are made.
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  1. Hi Spinner, I'm seven years late in contacting you,  but I am a leather supplier located just outside of Detroit, MI and

    I HAVE HALF TANNED LEATHER.  I import it from Germany. The name of my company is 

    Roden Leather Company and we've been in business for about 100 years.

    Feel free to contact me at 800-521-4833 or email to rodenleather@gmail.com

    Alan Lappin

  2. Hey Joel, The colored areas receive two light coats of satin varnish to lock in the color and help with UV protection. This is followed up by applying 2-3 coats of Resolene over the entire piece with the last coats 24 hrs apart to create a hard finish. Next is buffing Pecards motorcycle leather dressing over the piece for that extra water resistance. Using this method I have had guys accidentally let gasoline run over a bib, as well as getting caught in the rain, with no ill effects if dabbed off quickly. The client then just needs to reapply the leather dressing when they get home.
  3. Some additional/real life info on the Techsew 2700...I'm a happy owner/user, not employee or paid. Sewing Capacity: 3/8' or 9.5mm maximum. You can fit more in there but it really doesn't like it. Foot Lift: Lever, 1/2" Bobbin Winder: standard, integrates inline with belt. Cylinder length: 270mm, clearance 225mm, diameter: 65mm Lubrication: manual Presser Feet: Singer 111 I can confirm it will run 207/210 thread using the correct size bladed leather needles. The attached pic is of a recent stitch it ran 138/92 t/b thread using a Tri-Point needle through 13-14 ounces of veg & chrome tanned stacked (center island) . It runs nice & true and controls easily with a servo motor.
  4. For the majority of my orders SLC does pretty well. Only issue I have ever had is with their Bomber Brown leather. They have one clear picture on the website but the lots vary so widely on the product that I had to stop ordering it. At first I thought they had screwed up an order but after trying to get the same leather as I received the first time, 4 subsequent orders were all filled with slightly difference color/grain pattern yet the customer service said it was the same. Can't have inconsistency like that so I source it elsewhere now but still order from them for stuff I know will be the same like 'roo lace and pre-dyed HO.
  5. Back in September I posted the raw toolings of these two bibs to share. Here they are all colored and mounted on the client's 2001 Harley-Davidson Heritage Softail. Also attached is the finished "no Evil" set ready for delivery.
  6. For the painting I use a variety of paints, all depends on the colors and coverage I am looking for. My favorites are Games Works Citadel acrylics for general brush work, very durable and the come in a ton of colors. For airbrushing base colors I like Golden Fluid Acrylics and Golden High Flow acrylics. The High flow are amazing for airbrushing, work right out of the bottle and cover very well. I also custom mix colors to get what I want. There is not a good flesh tone on the market so I generally hand mix those.
  7. Thanks everyone. Just finished painting the sugar skull and dragon/skull bibs yesterday, will post pictures of them tomorrow when I have some natural light.
  8. Head down to the local home improvement store and buy some 6' sections of 6"-8" ABS or PVC pipe. Some thin wire or chain and a box of threaded eyelets. Screw the eyelets to the ceiling at 5' intervals, loop the chain into them and slide the pipe in, instant hide hanging system. Just slip the rolled hides into the pvc pipes. If you own the place and can be more serious about hanging them, get pipe clamps and screws instead of the chain and eye hooks. The chain method simply allows you to hang them lower like a florescent light if you want to.
  9. Thanks folks, appreciate the comments. gotta follow the money! I use the Leatherwranglers SK knives, one with a 3/8" angled blade for general work and one with a 1/8" angled blade for details/deep cuts. Yes sir, The details and tight areas were done with an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and the big fades were done with an Iwata Neo.
  10. This is likely the root of the problem Asbandr, most finishes will soak too far in and dilute if your dyes and oils haven't cured/dried well. Let the piece sit for 24 hours after dying and oiling, buff with a rag until it has a slight burnish to it and then apply the finish. The new Super Sheen is garbage but the old version of it (the changed formulas about 3 years ago) was awesome. Resolene, as mentioned is better. For either finish, use a soft cloth and apply a coat that has been cut 50/50 with water. Wait until the surface looks dry (it isn't yet) and apply a second coat. This is the penetrating coat that will close up the pores. Wait a few hours/overnight and apply another thin coat or two. Just like furniture finishes, each time you let it dry overnight it seals the pores a bit more allowing the finish to build. The build up of layers is what will give you the shine, and will last longer than one fast thick coat.
  11. Keep in mind, acrylic paints will not penetrate the leather and can not be tooled through so painting should be the last step, not the first. If you paint it and then cut the parts out a) you will have a ton of waste the edges of the cuts are likely to crack and possibly peel at the cut lines as it will have no adherance at the sides. Simply spraying another coat to the side edges after will not correct this. Coloring in this method is be faster, more cost effective and have better longevity if you cut the parts out first then airbrush them separately.
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